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over heating issue

2K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  90Bronco79 
#1 ·
Ok first I have replaced the water pump, stat, and heater core. I topped off the heater core when installed / reinstalled, stat opens and closes as the upper hose get warm to hot then back. I am in the process of burping the system after replacing the stat but every time i turn off motor fluid gushes out of the rad like a geyser. I don't know what else to do at this point. Any suggestions would be nice. Yes I have searched
 
#2 ·
with the cap on the temp rises to just before the line for normal with the cap off while burping just after shutting down to let it cool it gushes out there is no leakage other wise.

Yes the cap is the next on the list to replace when my wife gets back from the gym.
 
#5 ·
with the cap on the temp rises to just before the line for normal with the cap off while burping just after shutting down to let it cool it gushes out there is no leakage other wise.

Yes the cap is the next on the list to replace when my wife gets back from the gym.
that's normal behavior on some vehicles. Some don't do that, some do. what i always did after the stat opened a few times was raise the engine speed with one hand (this will suck the coolant level down), top off the radiator, cap the radiator, and THEN shut the engine down, letting it cool with the system sealed.

then check and top-off once fully cooled down.
 
#6 ·
I really hate working with the cooling system give me a mechanical issue any day. I am still getting bubbles out so how many times should could it take to purge all the air out of the system.
 
#7 ·
cooling systems are cake.

Get it as close to full as you can and seal it up. if you daily drive it, check it every morning for 3-5 days. it will purge itself once you get it 90% of the way there.
 
#9 ·
Age for one thing if you don't know how old it is, the coil spring in the center and overall condition. I just changed mine since it's been on there for 9 years since I've owned the BKO and probably the original one, sometimes rountine maintainance replacement is in order if parts are old.....http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...73_3034&keyword=fan+clutch&pt=03389&ppt=C0331

You can tell if your temp needle is moving up towards H where the fan clutch may not be doing it's job.

Shop around for a better price on the internet, I'm sure you can do better..

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
#10 ·
when cold, you should be able to spin the fan with relative ease by hand (WITH THE ENGINE OFF), and once at operating temperature the fan should be almost impossible to turn by hand (WITH ENGINE OFF).

if it doesn't follow either of those, it's bad.
 
#11 ·
I'll check that out too. Added fluid after the drop from purging and filled the res I hope this works going to take if for a drive later will let you know the out come. BTW I have read both thanks bookmarked both.
 
#12 ·
Driving into work this morning i noticed that when under power the temp gague would go down and then when i let off the gas it would climb to the high side of the Normal range. Still have very weak heat but it runs just not sure if the pump is going since its less then a year old.
 
#13 ·
If it was run in the higher temps before the repairs your temp sensor could have been damaged, if you have an ohm meter you can check your sensor, but I usually replace them if the vehicle was over heated to any extreme, as they can give faulty readings and have you second guessing your repairs.
 
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#20 ·
Steam in the truck is without a doubt heater core. The good news is on our Broncos, heater core replacement is cheap and well within the ability of most DIY mechanics. Easily accessible right behind the glove box. HOWEVER, be very gentle removing the glove box. The plastic is pretty brittle after 10-20 years. Do not squeeze the sides in any more than absolutely necessary to clear the tabs and drop the door out or you will have shards of plastic littering the cab floor and useless remains in your hands. Oops! I see yours is an 85.... Glove box unscrews on yours!
 
#24 ·
Ok still having the Temp gauge swing issue
So far I replaced the Stat (195degree), water pump, radiator,fan clutch and had a flush and fill done. When I drive the temp gauge swings in the Normal range. At its highest it sit just on the High side of the normal marks. I really don't know, the only thing I have replaced again (done last winter) is the heater core I also flushed that out till clear water came out. Is there any way my temp sensor could be the issue.
 
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