So it seems everytime i fix one thing something else goes wrong, I noticed a couple of weeks ago that the steering in my 78 felt a little funny, like it has some sticky spots in it. Granted I have 38's, but it never used to feel like this, sometimes better then others, I do have an after market ps pump with high output, been on for about a year now.
Guessing maybe the box, fluid is new in it, actually running about half good fluid in in, royal purple, need to drain and completely refill with it all together. just has a funny uneven feel to it when turning, before it would turn the 38's sitting still on pavement at an idle with one finger on the wheel no problems,still turns them with ease but has a little hesitation and stiffness, but not all the time, it is hit and miss,
my guess would be the gear box possibly,anyone else ran across this and fixed a similar issue?
Check the track bar bushings and make sure the bolts on each end are tight. I had a similar issue after putting new bushings in and still having the same problem. Then realized the cotter pin in the castle nut had come out and the bolt had backed off letting a little play and the axle assembly to move and bind the steering. :thumbup
My 250 was doing the dame thing when I got it, the PO put power steering fluid rather than ATF.
Drained and refilled 3 times to get all the PS fluid it out, solved my problem.
Of course you have a saginaw pump, I am not sure on what fluid it runs...
I was running atf but was having problems with the pump making noise when getting warm so the manufacture said run something like royal purple, been running about half and half for a while now, been doing good, this issue just started. I need to drain and refill with just one fluid, haven't had the time yet
well look by it,I had a problem last yr after putting my deavers up front. somehow the coil tower was pushing in after i flexed it. and the rag joint was hitting the coil tower in one spot. drove me nuts for a week till I got someone in the bronco to turn the wheel while I looked at the steering and saw the joint hitting.
This just might be it, I have a plate behind my steering box on the frame do to it being cracked, so that would put my rag joint closer then stock, will look when I get home
I kind of peaked at that last night and it looked good, I may try flushing the fluid real good and see what happens, it does have a couple different types of fluid in it, mybe that is causing me some issues
Well I came home and got just a few minutes to look it over, rag joint isn't touching, not even close, so I fired it up and spun the wheel around a little bit, starting to think it may be the u joint, as u spin it around, it feels to have 2 tight spots as it rotates
It doesn't have tilt, but still has the u joint on the engine side of fire wall that does work at a slight angle, enough that if it was starting to seize up I would feel it when rotating, maybe if I get time tommorow after work I will take a further look into it
So I pulled the shaft out, took it to work with me for the day a nd soaked it for a couple hours in some penetrating oil and then worked it back and forth till it gradually freed up. Got it to where it moved freely and smoothly, put it back in and the steering works like a champ.:rockon
No kidding, well at least mine is back to normal for now. I like my one finger steering. After doing the Saginaw upgrade and putting the performance pump in, my steering is a breeze, even with 38x14.50, I can turn the tires with ease even on pavement. Can a superduty owner say that!!
Im having this same problem, tight to loose and tight to loose regardless of the direction I'm turning.
My steering column (non tilt, automatic, column shift) attaches thru the firewall to a u joint, then the rag joint is down by the steering box. Fairly sure this is original equipment, but the u joint is square instead of the rounded cylinders of newer joints. Ive been searching, but i can't figure out if this can be u joint can be replaced or not (not replacing the entire shaft)
Is this joint generally welded on, or just attached with the tightening screws?
and what is the correct measurement if i was to replace it? Ive read on another forum that the correct measurements are 3/4" x 3/4" 36 spline.
Id prefer to either soak the u joint and see if it loosens up, and if not, replace it altogether with a new piece, cause i don't have the $300+ for a new steering shaft altogether. Is this feasible?
EDIT: tackled this project this weekend. stock u joint is welded on, and despite hours of PB soaking and forcing some life into the joints, it still sticks some. Overall though, steering is vastly improved. Still want to replace the rag joint at a later date.
Somewhere else on here someone said they were successful switching out the u joint in conjunction with the saginaw pump upgrade
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