Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

Need Help!!! Tranny or CPU issues or something

23K views 108 replies 12 participants last post by  miesk5 
#1 ·
I just put a transmission w/less than 3k after a professional rebuild in. I also replaced the transmission wires, sensors, everything. When I take off it is super sluggish, but the engine run great and is strong and has less than 100 miles after a rebuild on it. It isnt the motor. I push the gas and its really sluggish to take off.

I have to shift into 1st just to get going. If I try to take off in 2nd or OD it just tach's up but barely moves. Almost like it in higher gear or something.

Does the CPU have to be mapped like on a motorcycle for things other than stock? Could that be the problem? I have never had it mapped.

I have a cold air intake/snorkel on it, straight pipes, 36" Irok's, 6" susp and body lift, an RV cam w/appropriate lifters, and a few other things that would have to be mapped on a motorcycle. Is that the issue? Are the bands in the trans slipping or not grabbing? Is there a sensor or something that can be causing it? I have no idea. Any help would be MUCH appreciated!!!
 
#43 ·
OK, splicing the orng/yllw wire into place solved my Solenoid circuit problem therefor solving my INITIAL shifting problem. I can now take off in drive and have a little torque(but not too much with way over sized tires on stock gears ect). Woo hoo! BUT NOW I HAVE ANOTHER PROBLEM WITH ITS SHIFTING!!! :::

It shifts from 1st to 2nd in drive, but the shifts are pretty hard, but doable, HOWEVER, when shifting into 3rd, it wont gain any speed and 4th gear is a pipe dream at this point. On uneven terrain (back country gravel roads), it goes into third, then as I apply gas lightly to speed up, it slams back into second with high RPMs then tries to shift back into 3rd. It does that repeatedly if I am going up a slight incline. I did some searches but couldnt find anything elementary enough for me to understand. My Haynes manual sucks monstrous balls and was no help either(never is).

I then pulled codes. KOEO: 565, 211, 332, 452 KOER(I realize I didnt do it right but am not sure how or when to do procedures at this time): 311, 213, 332, 538, 536, 632

632 (OD cancel switch not changing state) is the only trans code it pulled, but is due to my not knowing how to do a KOER test yet

As always, any and all educated advice welcome with me!
 
#47 ·
I then pulled codes. KOEO: 565, 211, 332, 452 KOER(I realize I didnt do it right but am not sure how or when to do procedures at this time): 311, 213, 332, 538, 536, 632

632 (OD cancel switch not changing state) is the only trans code it pulled, but is due to my not knowing how to do a KOER test yet
As always, any and all educated advice welcome with me!
yo,
If I can get time, I'll go thru those Codes & post some possible causes/tests;
for KOER;
The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.

SELF TEST - & DTCs; COMPREHENSIVE by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSBSome clarification... Steve has the following in his narrative, but I added some info..

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.


Engine ID codes are issued at the beginning of the KOER Test and are one-digit numbers represented by the number of pulses sent out.

During KOER; For gasoline engines, the engine ID code is equal to one-half the number of engine cylinders (i.e. 4 pulses = 8 cylinders).

The Dynamic Response code is a single pulse that occurs 6-20 seconds after the engine identification code. When/if the Dynamic Response code occurs, perform a brief Wide-Open Throttle (WOT). The dynamic response check is used on some applications to verify operation of the TP, MAF, MAP & KS sensors.

On vehicles equipped with the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, within 1 to 2 seconds after the ID code, the steering wheel must be turned at least one-half turn and released. The PSP Switch signals the EEC Module when power steering pressure exceeds 350 psi ±50. The engine then increases idle speed to compensate for the additional load. It appears the PSP switch was deleted from the 94 model year. PSP Switch is screwed into the high pressure port of the PS pump (5.0L Only).

On vehicles equipped with Brake On/Off (BOO) input (such as E4OD), the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID Code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the Brake Lamp Switch.

On vehicles equipped with Transmission Control Switch (TCS) such as da E4OD, the switch must be cycled after the ID code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the TCS. TCS = Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) on E4OD it is also ref to as the OD on/off LED/Switch @ end of tranny gear stalk.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to KOEO & KOER
 
#45 ·
I got this from Stangmata's E4OD diagnosis thread:
My transmission will not shift into 3rd or 4th but I am not getting any codes

This is a tricky one. It could be many things but if you have been offroading, mudding, or driving through deep water, I recommend you replace your alternator and see if this happens. It is possible that the rectifier circuit went and the alternator is sending a mixed AC/DC signal to the PCM confusing it.

Does it sound like that is what I have going possibly? Does anyone know of a way to test the rectifier circuit before I have to buy a new alternator?
 
#48 ·
yo,
ok, here we go for now;
TSB 91-12-11 Catalytic Converter Diagnosis

Publication Date: JUNE 12, 1991

LIGHT TRUCK: 1986-91 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES
1988-91 F SUPER DUTY, F47

ISSUE: Lack of power or a no start condition may be diagnosed as an exhaust restriction caused by a plugged catalytic converter. A plugged catalytic converter (internal deterioration) is usually caused by abnormal engine operation.

ACTION: Diagnose the catalytic converter to confirm internal failure. Refer to the Catalyst and Exhaust System Diagnostic Section, in the Engine/Emissions Diagnostic Shop Manual and the following procedures for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Lack of proper HEGO operation may cause, or be the result of a rich or lean fuel condition, which could cause additional heat in the catalyst. Perform self test KOEO and KOER, service any codes.
NOTE: IF TWO DIGIT CODES 41, 42, 85 OR THREE DIGIT CODES 171, 172, 173, 179, 181, 182, 183 AND 565 ARE RECIEVED, CHECK FOR PROPER HEGO GROUND.
If the HEGO ground is good, the following areas may be at fault:
Ignition Coil
Distributor Cap & Rotor
Fouled Spark Plug
Spark Plug Wires
Air Filter
Stuck Open Injector
Fuel Contamination Engine OIL
Manifold Leaks Intake/Exhaust
Fuel Pressure
Poor Power Ground * Engine Not At Normal Operating Temperature
HEGO Sensor 2. Spark timing that is retarded from specification may increase exhaust gas temperature and shorten catalyst life. Refer to the following procedure for service details.
a. Check spark timing. Check base timing with spout disconnected. Set base timing to the specification on the vehicle emission decal.
b. Check computed timing with spout connected.
NOTE: COMPUTED TIMING IS EQUAL TO BASE TIMING PLUS 20° BTDC ± 3°.
3. Misfiring spark plugs may cause an unburned fuel air mixture to pass through the catalyst, which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Check secondary ignition, hook the vehicle up to an engine analyzer and check for a secondary ignition misfire.
NOTE: SERVICE ANY ITEM THAT IS NOT PERFORMING AT PROPER SPECIFICATIONS BEFORE CONTINUING.
4. Fuel pressure that is too high may cause rich air fuel mixtures to pass through the catalyst which could cause higher than normal catalyst temperatures. Refer to the following procedure for service details.
a. Check fuel pressure, install fuel pressure gauge, start and run the engine at idle. Fuel pressures between 28 and 34 PSI are typical (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher).
b. Disconnect the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure typically jumps to 40 PSI ± 3 PSI (4.9L typically is 15 PSI higher). Visually inspect vacuum line for raw fuel.
NOTE: FUEL PRESSURES ABOVE THESE VALUES SHOULD BE CORRECTED. HOWEVER, THIS MAY NOT BE THE CAUSE OF THE CONCERN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.
5. Throttle plates in the throttle body not returning to the proper closed position may cause excessive catalyst temperatures during downhill grades. Refer to the following procedure for service details. Visually inspect the throttle body and linkage for:
* Binding or sticking throttle linkage.
* Tight speed control linkage or cable.
* Vacuum line interference.
* Electrical harness interference.
NOTE: AFTERMARKET GOVERNORS, THROTTLE LINKAGE AND CABLES ASSOCIATED WITH POWER TAKE-OFF UNITS, MAY ALSO INTERFERE WITH PROPER THROTTLE RETURN. SERVICE AS NECESSARY.
6. It is extremely important that all systems related to the engine and emission systems operate properly.
a. Visually inspect the engine compartment to make sure all vacuum hoses and spark plug wires are properly routed and securely connected.
b. Inspect all wiring harnesses and connectors for insulation damage, burned, overheated, loose or broken conditions.
c. Verify proper operation of the thermactor system. Thermactor systems that fail to dump thermactor air to the atmosphere properly or at the correct time can cause high catalyst temperatures.
d. Visually inspect thermactor system for damaged or kinked hoses and perform a function test on following components: air control valve, check valve, silencer, filter and the air bypass solenoid.
e. Verify proper operation of the engine cooling system thermostat.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Basic Warranty Coverage, Emissions Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
911211A Diagnostics - Perform KOEO And KOER Self Tests 0.5 Hrs.
911211B Timing - Check Or Adjust Spark Timing, Check Computed Timing And Check Secondary Ignition System With Engine Analyzer 0.5 Hrs.
911211C Check - Fuel Pressure And Inspect Vacuum Line For Raw Fuel 0.2 Hrs.
911211D Inspect - Throttle Body And Linkage 0.1 Hrs.
911211E Inspect - Vacuum Hoses, Electrical Harnesses, Connectors And Spark Plug Wires For Routing Damage 0.1 Hrs.
911211F Thermactor System - Inspect For Proper Operation And Damaged Component. Includes Function Check Of Air Control Valve, Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid, Check Valves, Silencer And Filter 0.3 Hrs.
911211G Thermostat - Check For Proper Operation 0.2 Hrs.
-------

DTC 211; Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 TSB 95-15-11 in 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT)
Source: by Ford via Chilton
summary; engines may exhibit various driveability symptoms, such as no start, no spark, hesitation/stumble/stall/miss and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211. The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain wire (Circuit 48.) cutting through the insulation of, and shorting to, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) wire (Circuit 395) or the spark output (SPOUT) wire (Circuit 929) near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-pin connector. A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire.
ACTION: Inspect PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), Ignition Ground (IGN GND) - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK) for possible cut insulation from Circuit 48. Also, inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Mastic Tape. Refer to the following procedure for service details
READ MORE
===========

DTC 332; "...indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation. Possible causes: "...Obstructed or cracked hose to EGR valve, Icing, Damaged EGR valve, Damaged EVR solenoid harness..."
Source: by Ford via SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB
.......

DTC 332, P1407 and P1408 or detonation ;"...We have run into many situations where a code for insufficient flow has been set and the system is functioning correctly. Then it is time to check the EGR passages. There is a Ford Technical Service Bulletin (TSB 96-23-4) that addresses this for some vehicles. This TSB includes: 1992-1995 Crown Victoria 1994-1995 Thunderbird 1991-1995 Town Car 1992-1995 Grand Marquis 1994-1995 Cougar The concerns have to do with intermittent MILs; DTCs 332, P1407 and P1408; or detonation. If exercising the EGR valve does not result in a change in rpm, then the passages may be clogged. There are “U” shaped passages (Fig. 6) under the throttle body adapter that get clogged with carbon. Remove the adapter, clean the passages and reinstall with a new gasket. Just because the vehicle you are working on is not listed in the TSB doesn’t mean you may not have a clogging problem. Make sure you check the passages and be sure they are clean. Just a slight restriction can cause a flow code to be set, and you may still have an rpm drop that can mislead you..."
Source: by tomco-inc.com

===========

E4OD Controls Overview, Sensors, DTC (s) & Diagram; Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) 9E731: "... The vehicle speed sensor is a variable reluctance sensor that sends an AC/frequency signal to the powertrain control module. The vehicle speed sensor signal is used by the powertrain control module to calculate vehicle speed in mph. Used as an input in determining shift scheduling and electronic pressure control. DTC 452, P0500, P1500, P1501, P0503..." Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

DTC 452 Erratic Harsh Shift; Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 on 94-95 Bronco & Trucks
Source: by Ford via Chilton
- See D. then;
Driver's side A pillar trim screws may pinch the wire assy; Dome light grnd screw may pinch the wire assy/mtg screw may be too long & short the ckt to roof panel; Scuff plate screws may pinch the 14A504 wire assy; 14401 wire assy may be pinched between Half car beam & instrument panel attachment (repeated as the wire harness may be pinched/shorted behind the dash where the 14401 wire assy may come in contact w/a sharp edge on dash panel wall.; Chaffing may occur above the brake pedal-to-dash panel wall weld.; E4OD shift cable assy near tranny may chaf the wire harness; the wire harness may be chaffing against the clutch pedal; See Repairs for each condition and the location diagram
..................

DTC 27, 29, 452, P0502, P0503, PO716, PO718; Insufficient input from VSS.; "...A more difficult problem to identify is a VSS that works, but sends out the wrong signal for a given vehicle speed. In some cases, a wrong reading from the VSS may still cause a code to be set. For example, if the VSS signal tells the computer the vehicle is traveling 60 miles an hour, but the throttle position sensor and MAP sensor tell the computer that the engine is idling, the computer will be confused. And a confused computer should set any of the following codes: Ford 27, 29, 452. On a vehicle that uses the VSS as a safety device, a defective sensor may send out a wrong "too fast" signal, shutting down fuel flow at the wrong time. Although this doesn’t happen often, it can be a difficult problem to identify. The customer will probably describe it as a random or intermittent sudden loss of power and poor performance, onlyto have the engine resume normal operation. Routine diagnostic checks of the engine in the shop won’t show any problem because there isn’t a problem with the engine or the ECM..." read more
Source: by wellsmfgcorp.com


DTC 624, 625, P1746, P1747 The Electronic Pressure Control solenoid is a variable force solenoid. The variable-force type solenoid is an electro-hydraulic actuator combining a solenoid and a regulating valve. It supplies electronic pressure control which regulates transmission line pressure and line modulator pressure. This is done by producing resisting forces to the main regulator and the line modulator circuits. These two pressures control clutch application pressures. Failed off — maximum electronic pressure control pressure, harsh engagements and shifts. May flash transmission control indicator lamp. CAUTION: The electronic pressure control pressure output from the variable force solenoid is NOT adjustable. Any modification to the electronic pressure control solenoid will affect the transmission warranty. (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical condition.) Possible causes, Damaged harness connector. Damaged EPC solenoid. Damaged MLP sensor. Intermittent harness continuity. Damaged PCM connector pins. Pin Point testing; Source: by Ford via miesk5 at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2452835
=============

DTC 311 - Thermactor air system inoperable; "...because of the possibility that (following is an excerpt of a condensed discussion of how a bad TAB/TAD/vac line DTC 311 ... and so-on problem could cause the rich aroma; Your smog pump... blows fresh clean air up through a hose to the diverter valve. The solenoid next to the diverter valve which has a .... pink little hose plugged into ... it, creates a vacuum (sucking) that opens up the valve, and allows the fresh air to pass through the valve and make it's way to the exhaust, where the cats burn the unburnt gas more efficiently since this all happens during "open loop mode". Open loop mode happens when you turn on your car and it revs at 1200rpms for the first 15-20 seconds. During this process, your ECU feeds more gas to the engine to warm up the car quickly before driving. (also known as choke on older cars). During this open loop procedure, the extra unburnt gasoline will usually cause your exhaust to smell very rich, and the air that this diverter valve sends to the cats, causes it to burn the extra unburnt gas more efficiently like I mentoined above...thus eliminating the rich gasoline smell that us older mustangs sometimes suffer from..."
DTC 311, 312, 313 & 314; "...311 and 314 indicate the Secondary Air Injection system is inoperative. DTC 312 indicates that Secondary Air is misdirected. DTC 313 indicates that Secondary Air is not being bypassed when requested. Possible causes: Visually inspect vacuum lines for disconnects in the AIR system. Visually inspect for proper vacuum line routing. Refer to VECI decal. Visually inspect Air Pump for broken or loose Air Pump Belt. Refer to Section 13A for adjustment/replacement..." MORE
Source: by Jim
========

DTC 213 Spout Circuit Open; "...EZ check first; Ck to see if the SPOUT (Spark Output) connector is missing. da connector is a little "jumper" that fits into two wire connector; located near da distributor (it is removed to adjust timing). Check to see if it is in-place, if connector/wiring is damaged or corrosion is in conn or wiring..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
===

DTC 332; "...Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation. Possible causes: "...Obstructed or cracked hose to EGR valve,Icing, Damaged EGR valve, Damaged EVR solenoid harness..."
Source: by Ford via SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB

===
 
#49 · (Edited)
yo,
Iggie these, as you mentioned.

DTC 538 Insufficient RPM change during dynamic response test. This is another code generated when the dynamic response or "goose" test as some refer to it is not performed during the KOER test. The KOER test requires that after a certain length of time the throttle be opened to bring the idle above 2000 rpm for a short period of time. If the dynamic response test is not performed or the rpm's do not peak ABOVE 2000 rpm's this code will be generated. (Computer needs to compare changes in sensor readings at different RPM's to determine system operation and efficiency)..."

===

DTC 536 - Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test or shorted to ground
==

DTC 632, Overdrive cancel switch did not change state during KOER; is possibly the result of the test being done incorrectly. When you do a KOER test, you need to cycle the switch on and off, if you did, Possible Causes:
Switch is damaged.
Shorted harness.
Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Open harness or fuse.
 
#50 ·
Miesk5 : Hey, thanks man! I have been all over your broncolinks.com site and thats where I have been getting most of my info. It looks like you have a way diff spin on what a bunch of the codes mean, and yours make more sense than what i was pulling. You are like the bronco wizard dude. I really appreciate it. I thought I may have hit a brick wall. I will be on it this evening or tomorrow depending on weather and will report back in with findings asap.
 
#53 ·
Jopes: Thats a serious fish! :beer

meisk5: I was doing the alternator check as per the thread you sent me and during the ripple voltage check and came up with just over 30 when the link you sent me said ti should be at below 0.5 . I am probably doing something wrong. So I cranked the engine, and disconnected the hot battery cable, and it ran fine off the alternator. I cut on the head lights while running just on the alternator to load it and the engine actually tached up higher for a couple seconds... ??? Beats me.

While I was searching threads, I came across another guy with a similar issue (not wanting to work properly in 3rd or go into OD) and another guy mentioned the alternator, so I sent him the same link you sent me. Well, someone said to disconnect the alternator and run the truck as a test to see if that is what is causing the tranny issues. Is that good advice? I wanted to try it, but wanted to make sure it was sensible.

ALSO : Does anyone know of anywhere that I can buy a complete vacuum line kit for a 93 FSB? I am playing hell finding anything(searched all over), and I dont think I have a line on my FSB that is good. :banghead
 
#54 ·
Well, someone said to disconnect the alternator and run the truck as a test to see if that is what is causing the tranny issues. Is that good advice? I wanted to try it, but wanted to make sure it was sensible.
It is more sensible than you unhooking your battery while running. You need to unhook the alternator and drive it only long enough to confirm the issue goes away or doesn't. Your truck will run for about an hour without the alternator. From the sounds of it you already have the diodes failing in the alternator though. I would have it rebuilt for about $65 or do as I suggested to some one yesterday and upgrade to a 130A 3g.
 
#56 ·
yo Friends, yw; glad to help and share

D Mechanic; as the ramsey said, pull alt and take it to NAPA or an automotive electric shop to test for free. Adk shop for price on diode and/or overhaul. or upgrade to 3G w/whatever else you can afford; Some yards have tested alts for sale; a dying breed tho
==
re; vac lines; 3mm - 8mm Silicone Vacuum Tubing & Fittings Source by forgemotorsport.com
See another Post here in FSB for another source; or I'll look for it and post it later.
Vacuum Line (Hose) Sourcing; "They sell hard plastic line at most parts stores now, in the HELP! section with the rest of the vacuum fittings. Most places have it near the bottom of their display, and it's not too expensive. The b!tch is forming the stuff to the shape or routing you need. I've not had the time to test it, but I believe a little heat might allow you to bend 'er into the correct shape. I should email Motormite/Dorman about that...Rubber lines collapse in long runs under low pressure (high vacuum), which is why Ford and most other manufacturers went to plastic lines. They're cheap to make, and form easily. Plus with the polymer they're made from, you can color code the lines for easier assembly line installation..."
Source: by SigEpBlue
"...McMaster-Carr: Multple colors of 5/32in reinforced nylon lines. Using a lighter I reproduced/improved the corners where the line breakouts occured in the plastic loom tubing and retaped the vacuum harness back together as a bundle..."
Source: by BlueBronco5.8 at FSB

============
Vacuum Leak Test; On an idling engine check for vacuum leaks using a mechanic's stethoscope with the probe removed, or a ~3' garden hose section. Don't spray flammables on a running engine. MIESK5 NOTE; Also check: vacuum hoses; intake manifold gasket & throttle body; PCV line; vacuum reservoirs: EGR Sys Vacuum Tank & 2ndry air (coffee can); AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (plastic ball type), under dash & lines to heat/blend/etc. doors; power brake booster; cruise control ckt, etc.... where applicable; (combined w/ Steve83's info, thnx) BEWARE OF BELTS/PULLEYS, FAN AND HOT ENGINE
Source: by miesk5 & Steve83
88 & UP; Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal; Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP. On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker). Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover. Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window
Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com

-------

Air Conditioning & Heater Vacuum Diagram in 92-96; "...80-91 similar, except 87-early 88 w/factory air; The 80-86 vacuum tank is a plastic ball on the R wheelwell..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

================
"...The vacuum hoses used in the passenger compartment Climate Control System are constructed from PVC plastic material. The vacuum hoses used in the engine compartment are constructed of Hytrel. Because of the materials used, the vacuum hoses should never be pinched off during diagnosis to locate a leak. Use Rotunda Vacuum Tester 014-R1054 or equivalent to locate vacuum leaks. A wood golf tee can be used as a plug when it is necessary to plug one end of a vacuum hose for leak test purposes..." from F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco, F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual

Vacuum Diagram Color Codes:
Red = Main vacuum
Green = EGR function
White = EGR vacuum (source)
Black = Mainly used for the Evaporative emissions control
Black = Thermactor ACV or Diverter valve

ACV (Air Control Valve) is the TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) Valve (AIR Bypass (AIRB) and AIR Diverter (AIRD) valve combinations); MAN VAC is Manifold Vacuum; FPR is Fuel Pressure Regulator; EGR is Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Valve SOL V: Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoid (SOL V) (AIRD) & Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) Solenoid; ; EVR is EGR Vacuum Regulator; VRESER is the Vacuum Reservoir Can (Tank); V REST on later years is Vapor Valve (Roll-Over @ Gas tank); V REST on earlier years such as 78/79 & SEABRONC's 83 is a Vacuum Restictor/Delay Valve, it restricts vacuum for a certain amount of time, on most engines a vacuum line from the carburetor base runs to a T & then to V REST to the distributor; Carbon Can is Carbon Canister (Charcoal Canister, Vapor Canister, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister); MAP is Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor; AIR BPV is the AIR Bypass (AIRB) Valve, also called the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) Valve; CPRV is Canister Purge Solenoid Valve/ Canister Purge Solenoid (CANP); VCKV is Vacuum Check Valve; CAT is catalytic converter; ENG is engine; PCV is Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve.

HVAC in 92-96; Black = from engine source to vacuum check valve & to vacuum reservoir tank & to Control Panel; White = actuates the Outside/Recirc air door two-position vacuum control motor; Blue = Mix (actuates the FLOOR/PANEL air door two-position vacuum control motor); Red = Floor Flow & Yellow = Panel, (actuate the FLOOR/DEFROST three-position air vacuum control motor)
Pink = TAD to Thermactor Air Bypass Valve (TAB or AIR BPV) /AIR Bypass (AIRB) valve
NOTE: AIR BPV is the AIR Bypass (AIRB) Valve; also called the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) Valve in other years/diagrams

CLIMATE CONTROL Vacuum Circuit, Floor Panel Door, Temperature Blend Door (Cable Controlled), Floor & Defrost Door etc. Diagrams in a 96 from Workshop Manual
The following diagram illustrates the vacuum hose connections between the vacuum source, vacuum control motors (18A318), and A/C control (19980). The diagram also identifies the color coding of the vacuum hoses and charts the function control knob settings and vacuum application by heater control (18549) and function.

Function Control Vacuum Circuit

................
now since I can't load the ****ing next 2 diagrams for some ****ing reason see, em at the links
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/stjc2009.htm............
Function Selector Valve Detent Positions
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/stjc2009.htm
V = Vacuum.....A = Atmosphere
--------------

Vacuum Hose, Mini-Tube Service in Climate Control System in a 96; "...Measure the length of the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Cut a piece of standard 3mm (1/8-inch) ID vacuum hose approximately 25mm (1 inch) longer than the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Cut the mini-tube vacuum hose on each side of the damaged area and remove damaged portion of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Dip the mini-tube hose ends in Tetra Hydro Furan (THF) or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). Either of these solvents will act as a sealer for the repair of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Insert the ends of the mini-tube vacuum hose approximately 9mm (3/8 inch) into the ends of the standard 3 mm (1/8-inch) ID replacement vacuum hose. Shake the service joint after assembly to make sure solvent is dispersed and vacuum line is not blocked internally. Test system for a vacuum leak in area serviced..." from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco, F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual
 
#58 ·
Meisk5 theramsey3: As always, thanks for the good info. You are an informational beast meisk5! I am headed to Autozone to see about some vacuum lines and an alt test then.

Did test drive w/o alternator and couldnt really tell much of a difference, but I think I am going to go ahead and upgrade like you were talking about. i posted a link to the 150amp one I am going to get from summit. Do you have a better one in mind?

I left battery disconnected all night. After drive w/o alternator i pulled fault codes again and cam up with the same 311, 332, 452, 213,and 565. The only new code I had was 225 no knock sensor signal. Codes 538, 536, and 632 disappeared after doing the KOER test properly (thanks meisk5).

Afer reading everything meisk5 sent me about 5 times, it seems like it will be the VSS/ABS sensor.I am going to replace it also.

M biggest issue seems like power loss while in gear and shady shifting, but I think maybe that and alot of the codes may disappear with the vacuum system unscrewed and a new VSS/ABS sensor. Hopefully I will have some results by tomorrow evening.
 
#60 ·
Yo TIM,
(SPELLED YOUR NAME CORRECTLY THIS TIME!)

Bluebeast hasn't been here in FSB since 11-28-2007 according to his profie; others may know him and ask him to come back w/info.

Had to see Doc yesterday so I didn't have much time left to cont. the diode search; ..[/URL]no-go for;
So far, I have this;
TRY looking & asking @ http://www.eectuning.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=17

Found only this so far:
"..
If a diode is bad, replace solenoid body assembly. A bad diode may cause a processor concern. Record and erase codes and repeat On-Board Diagnostics. Road test vehicle after solenoid body replacement. If the diodes are OK and NO function..."

Read more: 93 e150 4.9 e4od seems like tcc engages in driv... - JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/questions...cc-engages-in-drive-and-reverse#ixzz130LhWL1i.

----
KANT recall if I posted this already...

E4OD Transmission Solenoid Body in a 96 Bronco from Ford Workshop Manual:
Description: The powertrain control module controls the E4OD transmission operation through four on/off solenoids and one Variable Force Solenoid. These solenoids and transmission fluid temperature sensor are housed in the transmission solenoid body assembly. All are part of the transmission solenoid body and are not serviced individually. Additionally, in 1995, the protection diodes that were on the solenoid body have been moved to the PCM. Refer to the following information for the functions of these solenoids...
============

NO INFO in Following:
Diode Identification & Service Replacements TSB 96-24-6 for 84-97 F Series & Econoline, 84-90 Bronco II, 86-97 Aerostar & many others; Bronco is not Listed but this TSB probably applies; "...Electrical system concerns that are due to diode failure may be serviced with an approved Ford service diode. Some electrical diodes used in early production vehicles are color coded for the purpose of size identification while others are stamped with a manufacture number. All Ford service diodes and current production diodes are identified by manufacture number. If service is required, refer to the appropriate model/year Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) to determine the size and location of the diode (s). Refer to the following Electrical Diode Application Chart for the correct service part number. IF THE DIODE REQUIRING REPLACEMENT DOES NOT HAVE THE SAME RATING AS LISTED IN THE APPLICATION CHART, USE THE NEXT HIGHER RATED DIODE.

I looked at Fireguy's fordfuelinjection.com site and the EEC IV pin-outs
[URL="http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/diagnostics/pdf/obdsm963.pdf"]1996 MY OBD-II System Operation Summary
Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com
 
#61 · (Edited)
Miesk5, this may be a stupid question, if it is just say so.

I have a donor 91 F250 with an E4OD intact. This transmission would have the older style solenoid packs (correct?), I already plan to use this harness. My rebuilt/built E4OD is from my '96 F150 donor. It has been completed. Could I simply swap the solenoid packs from this transmission with the older style and use the '93 Lightning computer? Is that too simple and would there be any downsides to this? (I am not as intelligent as some of you guys and really don't know if this is feasible/possible or not)

If this is an okay idea, it would seem to be my best option at this time. Considering time, money, and money! LOL How would I (or someone more intelligent) know if the solenoid packs were bad/good in the 91?

thanks again
tim

Miesk5, I just reread the last line of your post on the top of page 3. Guess that answers that doesn't it. Would there be any downside to using the older solenoid packs? Would this be something I could do, or will I need to take the transmission back to the builder?
 
#65 ·
Miesk5, I just reread the last line of your post on the top of page 3. Guess that answers that doesn't it. Would there be any downside to using the older solenoid packs? Would this be something I could do, or will I need to take the transmission back to the builder?
yo,
One thAng you and I and others don't need to be concerned about is.. asking a Question.

I don't see a downside to using the older solenoid packs re the protective diode in the pack
Thinking about it last night when I had time to think, the key here is "protective"
There are other protective diodes in Trailer relay box, etc. for the diff ckts. The Ford Manual has some info on the relay box diode and I'll look @ that later.
It's mount up and roll time..bbl
 
#62 ·
Ok, went and had my alternator tested. It came back good, but they said it was an alternator for an 04 Ranger 4.6(mounting bracket also). I posted a new thread to see if anyone has this alternator in their 93 FSB.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2492885#post2492885

Ok, on to a new can of worms: VSS/ABS sensor... I sat up last night researching threads for about 4 hours on this. From what I came up with on a 93FSB their should be only 1 sensor that does both VSS and ABS and it should be located on the rear diff. On some trucks their is a VSS sensor on the transfer case and just an ABS on the rear diff. I have a 93 but their is a sensor on the transfer case that I can only assume is a VSS. Today I replaced the VSS/ABS on the rear diff with no real change. It seems like it may be shifting better but it is hard to tell. Nevertheless, I am still getting fault code 452 (Computer detected an error in the VSS or PSOM signal during the last 80 warm up cycles). I was convinced my tranny issues had to be because of a bad VSS because with the fault code and tranny symptoms it just makes sense. BUT can it be that I am getting a 452 code because my computer is receiving codes from 2 VSS sensors (possibly due to previous owners possibly putting an older transfer case on it)?

Here are the pictures:
VSS/ABS on rear diff


Sensor on transfer case:
 
#63 ·
The sensor you have pictured there on the transfer case is the transfer case range sensor. you will only have a transfer case vss if you have ESOF but you have a manual shift case so no worries there. Did you clear the codes before testing again? Did you inspect the tone ring in the rear diff for damage?
 
#64 ·
Ok good deal on transfer case sensor. On the bronco that I got the tranny out of(also a 93) there wasnt a connection on the transfer case and they had the wire capped off. Thats why I had a red flag on it, but its not manual shift.

I heard people on here leaving their batteries disconnected overnight to clear the codes. I did do that, but thats all.

I didnt know to check a tone ring but will def research for a "how to" and check it. My speedo and temp gauge(temp irrelevant for issue at hand I think)still doesnt work either so I guess it could be the psom or a wire/connection in between. I was thinking VSS because of the hard shifting and it acting shady between 2nd and 3rd. I am going to take it for about a 20 mile test drive in a few minutes, so hopefully i will be able to tell if it made a difference and how much of one.
 
#66 ·
yo,
Contact thePUNISHER; __________________
lightning2fast@aol.com

Paul's ClutchBoxes. serious E4OD's and 4R100's... Street and Comp valve bodies

95 lightning... former bronco owner.
Haven't seen him here in a few months tho.. so use that e mail addy and ask;
here is what he wrote;
in reply to "got a 1991 bronco eb 5.0 with a beat e40d tranny, buddy of mine has a smashed up 1995 xl 5.8 with good e40d tranny. was curious to know if they'd match up..."

Reply; "you will have to change the mlp connector and the solenoid connector in your truck to match the trans. other than that is a swap"
 
#75 ·
Thanks miesk5. I dropped Punisher an e-mail. Hopefully he will respond. I'll update this thread with his response.

tim
 
#68 ·
Pull the VSS, chalk the front tires, jack up the rear, put it on jack stands, put the trans in neutral, turn the drive shaft while looking in the VSS hole there is a toothed ring you need to inspect it for damage/irregularities in the teeth.
 
#70 ·
Ok, the tone ring looks fine. I traced the wire all the way back to the firewall plug, cleaned all connections and check everything... it all looks fine. Damn...what now? I guess I should move on to the PSOM? My ABS light is still on, but it shouldnt throw me 452 should it?
 
#71 ·
yo,
Try another 4WABS Self Test; by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Here is some more on da tone ring (Ford calls it da "exciter ring" here) to mess up your day; It is part of:
TSB 96-21-11 Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module Pointer Waver

Does the pointer .. waver? (sorry, am still beat):thumbup

1992-1996 BRONCO........AEROSTAR, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES

ISSUE: The speedometer needle may waver and/or a light surge may occur on some vehicles when speed control is used at highway speeds between 80-113 km/h (50-70 mph). This may be due to slight dents/chips in either the exciter ring or the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and air gaps between the VSS and the exciter ring.

ACTION: Replace the Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM) if required. New PSOM's come with increased immunity to system variability. Refer to the following Diagnostic Procedure for details.

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE
BRONCO/F-SERIES - Perform normal PSOM diagnostics per Pinpoint Tests "H" and "J" of the 1996 F-Series/Bronco Body/Chassis Service Manual, Pages 13-01-30 through 13-01-32 and Pinpoint "B" of the 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Page 10-03-11.

ECONOLINE - Perform normal PSOM diagnostics per Pinpoint Tests "H" and "J" of the 1996 Econoline Body/Chassis Service Manual, Pages 13-01-29 through 13-01-31 and Pinpoint "B" of the 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Page 10-03-9.

AEROSTAR - Perform normal PSOM diagnostics per Pinpoint Test "K" of the 1994 Aerostar Body/Chassis Service Manual, Page 13-01B-31.

Any slight dents, chips, etc., in either the exciter ring or VSS will create needle waver. Measure air gap between the VSS and exciter ring. It should be 0.38-0.51mm (0.015-0.020").
Check exciter ring runout per the same ring gear backface runout procedure of the appropriate model 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Section 05-00. Make sure the exciter ring is mounted correctly to the ring gear. If runout is more than 0.1mm (0.004"), perform the differential runout check per the procedure in the appropriate model 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Section 05-02A or 05-02D, to find cause and repair as needed.
If all items listed above check good, replace the Instrument Cluster Assembly. Obtain the correct service part number from the Parts Catalogue and then contact the Electronic Odometer Exchange Center at (800) 259-9700 for U.S. Dealers and (800) 663-9974 for Canadian Dealers.
NOTE: DEALERSHIP MUST TELL THE ODOMETER EXCHANGE CENTER THAT YOU NEED A PSOM3 LEVEL CLUSTER FOR A SPEEDOMETER NEEDLE WAVER CONCERN .
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top