Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

I6 rering job

1K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  gamesmasterz 
#1 ·
Hey everybody....got another Bronco for a song and a dance....almost literally and its got some blow back. The carb that was on it was dumping gas (out of the vent tube even) and probably ruined the rings. I was wondering about starting with a rering job and head job on it and going form there in small steps. Any advice on good rings? valves? order I should do this in? I really really dont want to pul the motor now (or even want to pull it that much later) but I am pretty sure I will have to when I replace the mains etc. So after this long ass winded post...any good advice on the order I should replace everything? Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Step 1, perform compression test. If you have good compression then you should not need to rering the motor. The 300 I6 is a very durable motor so you may just be good. They last a long time. You can pull the valve cover if you like and see if the engine is gummed up or anything.
 
#6 ·
If you were to re-ring the engine, you'd need to disconnect the motor and transmission mounts and jack the engine up as high as you could. Remove the intake/exhaust manifolds, head, and oil pan. Then, disconnect the pistons and pull them out the top. In my experience though, making it easier on yourself by skipping what seems to be a difficult step usually just makes things a lot harder. Meaning, this would be a lot easier if you just removed the engine and put it on a stand. It'll be work to do it, but once you actually get into the job, you'll be glad you did. Plus, it'll give you a chance to fully re-gasket everything and check other things over.

However, before you do all that, I agree with others that you should do a compression check on it. Might not be anything wrong with it at all and all you need is a good carb rebuild and away you go.
 
#8 ·
Hrmm... Yeah, if it's still smoking, it's probably in need. Try looking around on Craigslist for a good used one. I found one for my Bronco once for $50. It clattered and needed new lifters, but it had top notch compression and drove like a champ. The guy just pulled it because he bought the truck, didn't know the history, and just wanted a fresh engine. Never know what you can find!
 
#9 ·
just check the compression first. is the carb tuned correctly? just because "it's new" doesn't mean it's set up.

a 300 is VERY HARD TO KILL. I wouldn't think twice about putting in a junkyard engine it to save money vs. a rebuild
 
#14 ·
The issue isn't really with it being low, it's that there's such a percentage of difference between the highest and lowest. That's a 28% difference between the two. About the most you want on a healthy engine is 10%.

But, if you want to test to see if it's your valves or your rings, pour a little bit of oil in each cylinder and repeat the compression test. If the compression goes up, your rings are bad. If it stays the same, it's the valves.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top