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Noob w/ some Questions

4K views 30 replies 11 participants last post by  trakesbronco 
#1 ·
I just bought a 1996 Eddie Bauer Edition Bronco. It has the 5.8 w Auto trans. I am looking into doing a brake job on it this weekend and was wondering if I could get some pointers.

I am very familiar with working on cars, however this will be my first 4WD vehicle ever owned or worked on. My question is what will I find different once I take the front wheels to change the brakes? I am about 95% sure the rotors will need to be replaced. The previous owner installed Warn manual locking hubs on the front. Will I need to dis assemble/remove the hubs to take the rotors off? I dont want to get in there and mess something up/ break something/ do more work than whats needed to do this simple maintenance but I figure any info I can get from you guys would be helpful.

I will try to post some pics of the progress we are making on this build. My son wants to have a rock crawler/monster truck (he's only 6) but why not start them up early right?
 
#2 ·
Its a whole different ball game. The calipers either have "pins" you have to knock out to remove them or simply unbolt from the back. In order to change the rotors, you must first take the locking hubs off, take off the spindle nuts and take the whole hub and rotor assembly off. Then you knock the wheel studs out and separate the hub from the rotor. Then from there its reverse order.

I bought a Chilton manual for the broncos and f-series when I first bought my Bronco. That thing comes in handy even when you know what you are doing!

Welcome to FSB!!! You'll learn a lot from the ladies and gentleman lurking around here.
 
#3 ·
So I am guessing it would be a good idea to replace the wheel studs at the same time as well then? What about the bearings? Would those be fairly easy to change out at this time as well? I'm not sure of the design/ how they fit on this vehicle so....

I'm not even sure if it needs new wheel bearings but I had might as well while I have it all apart.
 
#4 ·
yo T,
Description & Operation, Diagnosis & Testing, Removal & Installation, Disassembly & Assembly, Cleaning & Inspection, Adjustments, Specifications & Special Service Tools & Equipment in a 96 by Ford



Replacement in a 96 (no torque specs for bearing lock nut)
by stan the man (StanO) at FSB
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138896

4WABS Tone Ring Removal without Press in a 95
Source: by sackman9975 (Scott) at FSB
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=180049

Replacement, W/ Wheel Bearings & Warn® Hub Swap in a 95; (but his TORQUES are off a bit). miesk5 NOTE: "Word for word from Haynes Manual Ford Pickups and Bronco 1980 - 1996 Using a lockout spanner (ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent ) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.)" thanks to Chris!!!!
Source: by Trucky18 (Bco) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/3749/14884

more in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=989

==
Drum & Shoe
see Description & Operation, Diagnosis & Testing, Removal & Installation, Disassembly & Assembly, Service Procedures, Cleaning & Inspection, Adjustments, Specifications & Special Service Tools & Equipment in a 96 again

more LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=249


==

Locking Hubs, Manual

Description & Operation, Diagnosis & Testing, Removal & Installation, Disassembly & Assembly Procedures, Adjustments, Specifications & Special Service Tools & Equipment in a 96 http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/leftside=stjs53cl.htm&rightside=stjs53cr.htm

more LINKS @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=106
=========

use that on-line 96 Bronco Workshop Manual for more repairs
 
#7 ·
Where does one find this Dana 44 spindle nut tool? I doubt local auto parts store would carry it, order from somewhere? I ask because I have to do this now too.

Carl
 
#11 ·
#12 ·
#13 ·
Cool Thanks for all of the info guys. I did have a chance to get it up on a lift last weekend. both front wheel bearings are shot. One of the brake pad retaining clips have popped loose and is rattling so I have found the front end rattle I have been hearing and the whine I have been hearing from the front end is most likely the bearings from what I can tell.

So I am going to replace the rotors, pads, bearings, spindle nuts and washer, wheel studs, and I also noticed the seal on my passenger side halfshaft is leaking where it goes into the front axle and I also have a bad U-joint on the front driveshaft at the front axle.

I dont plan on doing the rear brakes as of yet. They arent giving me any problems but I will go ahead take off the drums and inspect them while I have the truck up in the air.
 
#14 ·
Well I was waiting for a semi-nice day outside to start working on the bronco. Good news was yesterday was in the 70's and I got to leave early from work at 10. The bad news- the reason I had to leave early was because our sewer cleanout line got clogged and was overflowing in the back yard. Ya- no bueno.

But after I finished that ishtty job (see what I did there?) I was able to start work on the bronco. I wasn't able to get very far because I had a heck of a time getting that spindle off. It did finally come off after a lot of effort following everybodies advice. So thanks again for all the input guys.

However I noticed that my ball joints are bad. I will be needing to replace those. I have already read on here that Moog isn't the way to go I guess. I figure I will just go with Ford OEM parts. However had a question. I am guessing that I will need to take the ABS Sensor out of the knuckle before I can fully remove it. After I have removed both screws off of the back of the sensor and the shield off of the front. Should it just popout the back? Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated as this will be the next step I start on when I get home tonight.
 
#15 ·
yo T,
4WABS Sensor, Front Wheel, Removal & Installation in 93-96 Bronco; "...Step 10: Remove the ABS sensor shield. This is the part that is on the front of the steering knuckle. It wraps around the silver sensor cover and overlaps the spindle. It can be seen in the picture above on the right hand side of the spindle. Behind the steering knuckle you will find a small 12-point bolt that holds the ABS sensor shield to the knuckle. Use the 6mm 12 point socket to remove this bolt. The sheild on the knuckle should fall off or come off easily. If not, you can PB Blast the spot where the shield rests against the steering knuckle and let it sit for a few minutes, then tap lightly with the SFH. If you have to use force to remove the shield, be very careful not to damage the sensor. Step 11: Remove the bolt holding the sensor. Above the small bolt you just removed, you will see a larger bolt that holds the rear sensor cover and the sensor against the back of the steering knuckle. Use the 8 mm socket to remove this bolt. NOTE: You will not have to remove the sensor to remove the spindle, only the bolt..."
Source: by Shane C. (BigBlue, bigbluebronk) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102256

more 4WABS Brake info Links in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=240

Rotors/Pads, Drums, MC @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=35

Ball Joint @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=723

GL
 
#16 ·
Hey M,

Thanks for all of the help and everyone else as well. I finished up the drivers side last night. The job wasn't as bad/difficult as I though it would be. Just a lot of stuck parts makes things a bit more time consuming. Waiting on the inner spindle bearing seal so I can do the passenger side next. Can't wait to really start driving this thing like it should be driven. I will keep you guys posted if I run into any issues.
 
#17 ·
Okay so I finally got some decent enough weather to do the passenger side brakes/bearings. I took the locking cap off and started to remove the locking hub. It was having trouble coming out for some reason. When i finally got it out the spring that keeps pressure on the inner ring of the locking hub was sticking out of the back of it. The whole back of the locking hub was gone- shaved off into a million pieces and packed into the grease. Any idea what could have caused this?

Also when I took the hub/rotor assembly off there was a type of seal still left on the spindle. It wasnt the inner wheel bearing seal that presses into the back side of the hub but another seal that was setting on the spindle behind the hub. I dont remember my drivers side having a seal like this on it when I took everything apart. Is there supposed to be a seal there? It looks similar to the inner spindle bearing seal but slightly larger.

(BTW I have Warn manual lockers. Also both of the spindle nuts were so loose I could have removed them by just turning the socket with my hand- not sure if this played a role in the destruction of my locking hub???)
 
#18 ·
yo T,
Here is the seal info;
Dana 44 Spindle & Seal Part Numbers for 95-96; "...Ford has replaced some of the numbers with seals that are not correct. When I did mine last year (96, not sure how closee to yours), the parts guy new his stuff and said when they crossed some numbers they didn't get it right. I went to five dealers and each had the same problem. Don't go to Pep Boys and get the seals they sell. Even though they are Chicago Rawhide, same as Napa relabel, they are not the better ones. The parts they have are a very cheap version, which may work, but I wouldn't trust. Napa had to order in the 25009, but they got it in a day. As far as seal 3, the one I got new from Ford was one piece, but the one that came out broke into the three pieces. If you get the Ford one, you will see how easy it is to snap apart. Seal 2 is actually a smaller version of seal 6, but the oneFord parts guy said that they don't have a replacement. Fortunately Napa has one. They have one part D3TZ3C132A that they try to sell. It is a metal slinger that could be pressed in place of seal 2, but it has no sealing properties, just a stamped part that looks like a washer with a lip where it slides over the axle. Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009 http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+-+Front+Wheel Item 7 is Napa NOS23276..."
Source: by Tony R (TonyR) at FSB http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113629&highlight=front+spindle+seal



1 3A329 Halfshaft
2 3C132 (Axle) Rolling Diaphragm Seal
3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal
4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle
5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
6 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (also called, OUTER)
7 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
8 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
9 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
10 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
11 — Pin (Part of 1195)
12 1195 Inner Lock Nut
13 1198 Lockwasher
14 1197 Outer Lock Nut
15 — Steel Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
16 — Plastic Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
17 — Splined Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
18 3B457 C-Ring
19 1K105 Hub Body
20 — Lock Ring (Part of 1K106)
21 1K104 Cup
22 1K104 Capscrew
A — While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearing. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn).
B — Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft)
C — Tighten to 4-6 Nm (35-53 Lb-In)

read what Tony R said;
Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA
Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA
Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009
Item 7 is Napa NOS23276

--

Warn manual lockers failure
Prob. Causes;
Yes, loose bearing locknut (or over-torqued in other cases)
carmelized grease
lack of Maintenance (no grease) or over greasing in other cases
"Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks.
Clean and lightly grease internal working surfaces.
To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..." Source: by Warn®


or cap's O-ring is damaged & contaminants creeped in
 
#19 ·
So M,

Does this exploded parts diagram apply to both the driver and passenger side setup? cause like I said I dont remember there being seal #6 on the drivers side when I pulled everything apart and I want to put it on there before I start to drive this thing again if it needs it.
 
#21 ·
Okay cool. Does anybody know if Oreilly'shas the same part and if so what the part number is? I am not having much luck using their website. If I have to I plan on just buying them from napa then going to oreilly's to see if they can match it. My dad works there and I get a heck of a discount- thats the only reason why.
 
#25 ·
#26 ·
Okay well I have the outer snap ring that hold the locker in place so I am guessing I still wouldnt need those washers then? That would put the locking hub riding against the outer spindle nut. In the how to threads I followed listed in here previously it doesnt show any of those 3 washers being taken out during the teardown or put back in for reassembly. And the guy who wrote the thread has the same locking hubs as I do. Sorry if I sound totally lost or dumb on this- i guess I kind of am. This is the first real 4wd vehicle I have owned or tore into for maintenance.
 
#28 ·
I just thought I would share this tidbit of info with everyone. I went and bought the Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal from NAPA (part # NOS 25009) and took it to Oreilly's to see if they could match it since I couldn't find anything on their website. We did eventually find the correct part.

It is part number 710430 at Oreilly's and they carry three different brands of it. I got the Masterpro seal and it also came with the inner wheel bearing seal as well for about $20. The NAPA part was $15 and did not come with the inner wheel bearing seal. Of course with my Dad's discount I got them for only $6.50 each.

Here is the link for it:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=710430

It doesn't have a picture available for the Masterpro Brand, and the picture it shows for the National Brand isn't the correct picture obviously but it is definitely the correct part.
 
#30 ·
The one that got the back shaved off?

I went ahead and bought two new locking hubs (Warn Standards- same ones I already had) and I plan on replacing bothh sides and keeping the one from the drivers side as a spare since its still good.

The one that had the back of the outer housing shaved off- I will probably keep the other parts for spares as well but other than those parts on it- it's pretty much useless.
 
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