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E4OD troubles

2K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  catsnw 
#1 ·
Well long story short I accidently slid into a ditch with my truck. After trying to get it out it caught on fire. Just a tiny one by the rear passenger side head. We put it out and all was burnt was a rubber hose and the yellow vac line (I capped that after).

So now my truck slips in all gears and not the nice firm shifts it had. It's turning 2900rpms in overdrive at 65mph with 3.55 gears. Out of I'd it's well past 3k.

Also reverse won't kick in until you rev the engine to 2k rpms for about a second and a half. Then it hits it and hauls ass backwards. So it's not like it "slips" it slips into gear and once it catches its gone.

In thinking either torque converter or the filter dropped. I just changed the trans fluid (and filter) about 700 miles ago. I check it and its a nice red without a brunt smell and at a good level. I also drain the torque converter at the same time.
 
#2 ·
... it caught on fire. Just a tiny one by the rear passenger side head. We put it out and all was burnt was a rubber hose and the yellow vac line (I capped that after).
What caused the fire? A rubber hose and a vacuum line usually don't start a fire? Did the exhaust crossover (connected to the back of the heads) burn through?
 
#4 ·
codes. pull them.
 
#5 ·
:stupid

I just so happened to have a similar incident with fire. The wiring harness for the transmission is in that area. Mine was toasted.
Is the "OFF" light on the shifter flashing?
 
#7 ·
Codes so far

KOEO: 654 (Mlp has 1 dead resistor. I ohmed it for every gear when it's in park the computer thinks its reverse but when it's in reverse it still thinks its reverse.)

Cm: 452 (this is an old one that I had fixed but never reset.) the speedo would jump like 20mph over a really rough patch. It's fine now.

Koer: I don't know yet. I didn't have time to run it.
 
#10 ·
Koer code: 311. No long have the AIR pump so that's why I get that. Other than that nothing.


Also the fluid looks fine and smells fine. It's less than a few hundred miles on it too. So it's clean.

Is there anyway to check if the filter is still in place without dropping the pan? Can I throw a line pressure gauge on it and tell? Or do I have to drop the pan and check?

The trans feels like its just slipping into gears not the nice firm engagement it had before. So it's mechanical not physical.
 
#11 ·
The look and smell of fluid is not a good indicator if it's good. My Bronco had belonged to an elderly gentleman who drove like an elderly gentleman. When I got the truck, it had a pronounced TC shudder/slip. The problem here was the fluid's anti-friction additive had gotten depleted but with the old fellow's gentle driving, it was never an issue. He drove it so easy he never experienced the shudder. The fluid looked and smelled new. Changing it made it shift like new. Unless you are SURE the fluid is fresh (not relying on a past owner telling you it was just changed and believing it since it looks and smells fresh) you should change it by the flush method. See my post here yesterday.
 
#12 ·
I personally changed it less than 500 miles ago. The last guy had also changed it because he put a 2wd filter in it. So I'm going get a line pressure gauge and see what I'm putting out then drop the pan and check the filter and refill the fluid. I flushed it last time using that procedure along with draining the tc.
 
#16 ·
Replaced the mlps and still won't shift correctly. But reverese is better.

So broken u-joint on rear axle later still nothing fixed. I broke it going to get a new mlps.


And I made sure to align it correctly.
 
#19 ·
Nope. Vss is fine. I even switched with a spare I had laying around.

Edit: I also pulled the plug on the vss to force it into limo mode and it would barely shift and sometimes not at all.
 
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