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Fuel line to rail disconnect

30K views 45 replies 14 participants last post by  JKossarides 
#1 ·
I'm about at my wits end.. I'm trying to get down to my valve covers to replace gaskets, but can NOT for the life of me disconnect the fuel lines so I can take out the rails. I first got the el cheapo plastic quick disconnect kit which promptly broke when I put pressure on it. Then I got the metal scissors looking thing that has 4 diff sizes on it. I can get the tool under the oval connector but that won't compress the springs enough to unlock the fuel line. Just now got back from the parts store with the circular coupling disconnect tool that goes over both sides of the line to remove it. Still no dice.

Any tricks anybody can give me? I've now spent almost $30 in tools to get these MF'ers disconnected and absolutely pissed at myself that disconnecting a couple fuel lines has been stopping me from tearing down the rest of the engine.

Thank you!
 
#3 ·
I've had the plastic ones for over 10 years and used them many times with no problems. It doesn't compress the spring, it stretches it out and moves it away from the inner tube. Once the tool is in place I just tap on it with a little 3/8 extension and a rathcet. It should pop right off. I just did this again on My Bronco last week for the first time in about 6 years, no issues.
 
#4 ·


Yup, even watched that video last night. I've tried pushing the line in to slide the tools farther towards the line. MF'er won't budge..
 
#5 ·
Had the same problem with the filter. Forced it apart and went to napa for replacement inner clips. Goofy looking things that cost me a couple bucks each. They had them in stock to my surprise. I'm sure any dealer shop has a bag of them around too.
You might be able to use a pick to pull the clips out.
 
#6 ·
Got the bottom one after a generous spray of PB blaster and a couple beers worth of time. Top one still didn't budge, so I left it attached to the rail and just moved it all off to the side so I can get to the driver's side valve cover...
 
#8 ·
Yup, tried until my thumbs were raw.. That top connection did NOT want to come out. Makes for quite a bit less room when dealing with the driver's side valve cover, but doable. At least i know that one probably won't ever leak?
 
#9 ·
yo,


Push the fuel line HARD onto the fitting (pump or filter) to relieve the catches, & rotate it to break the O-rings loose. While holding it on the fitting, insert the release tool as far as it will go (this one isn't there yet) to open the catches. While holding the tool HARD against the stop ring, work the line off the tool & fitting. It may be necessary to rinse the dirt out of the line end to allow the catches to open.
Blue supply lines are 3/8"; gray return lines are 5/16
Also, The only approved lubricant for fuel system O-rings is clean motor oil. DO NOT USE SILICONE GREASE on any part of the fuel system. It does NOT dissolve in gas, so it can block the fuel filter &/or injector screens..."
by Steve83
 
#10 ·
The only part I didn't do was rinse the dirt out, but would assume by spraying tons of PB Blaster it'd accomplish the same thing. The o rings are loose, I can twist the end of the line around a bit. So that's not an issue. Just keep my fingers crossed I won't ever need to replace the rail or that line in the future!
 
#12 ·
Man I worked and worked on one of those banjo connections one time.
I believe they aren't all -exactly- the same.

I modified a tool and that did the trick for me tho! :)

I guess I need to take a picture of that tool, but it's a quality tool from
Autozone and then I clamped it in the vice with something round in it
and then counter sunk the ends with a drill and 82 degree countersink.



<--worked after modification.

Went from nothing working for a couple hours messing with it to
being really-easy using the better tool after modifying it. :)

The cheap-scissor-type wouldn't work no matter what I did to it!
<--don't buy this!
That sorry sucker's lips were just plain ol' too short to do the job.

That's my experience.

Alvin in AZ
 
#13 ·
pb blaster and these are what i have

used them on my 89 bronco ii, 90 f150 parts truck and think my old ranger, worked nicely on the fuel lines and a/c lines,

bought them at advance i think

and a dump question, but did you relieve the fuel pressure to the fuel line, and you can always disconnect the line at the fuel filter and unbolt the rail
 
#15 ·
"{Blue supply lines are 3/8"; gray return lines are 5/16"

Yeah, I just changed the fuel filter on my pappy's 06 grand marquis today. Used the "scissor tool" for the first time. At first I had trouble with it till I realized that the tool didn't need to fit the fuel line, but the fitting :duh. Once I used the bigger size, she loosened the fitting right up, then after taking the tool off, was able to pull the fuel line away from the filter. Worked great on both sides of the filter;).
 
#16 ·
Worked great on both sides of the filter;).
I don't use a tool like that for the filter or fuel tank connections,
I pull the hairpin out with a pocket knife or screwdriver instead. :)

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-3429-55147.aspx

YMMV

-----------------

Oops! :/

I've been calling 'em a banjo fitting when it ain't. :/
A banjo fitting is like what's on a brake caliper.

The suckers that are a pain in the neck have a different name
but I don't know what that is, anyway, here's line drawings of
'em from Ryan's website...


Alvin in AZ
 
#17 ·
Second pic is the spring bail in the female end. Is that not on the fuel rail as well as the fuel filter fittings? If it is, use a pick, rip it out, shove a new one in. I messed with mine for a couple hours before I gave up and bought new bail springs. Pretty sure it was just a few dollars for new ones from Napa

[/IMG]
 
#18 ·
Second pic is the spring bail in the female end. Is that not on the fuel rail
as well as the fuel filter fittings? If it is, use a pick, rip it out, shove a new
one in. I messed with mine for a couple hours before I gave up and bought
new bail springs. Pretty sure it was just a few dollars for new ones from
Napa

[/IMG]
I've only-worked-on a '90 and two '91s and only thing that's got
that setup is the inline-one-way-valve for a dual tank system.

It's snapped onto the 3/8" outlet stainless steel line coming from
the sending unit / pump assembly. It prevents the fuel from going
into that tank from the other pump. I had no trouble with those
other than the bend in the stainless steel tubing forced me to take
the tool apart one time to get the halves in place. :) The scissor
type would fail there IMO.

Where else is that spring-finger-type retainer system used?

Alvin in AZ
 
#19 ·
These are the type I encountered at the the fuel filter with a single tank.
I havent been into any of the other fuel or air lines so I just assumed they would be the same. Nasty little clips to get out if the tool fails.
As mentioned though, even out in the middle of nowhere, small town Ontario, Napa had them in stock to my surprise.
[/IMG]
 
#20 ·
These are the type I encountered at the the fuel filter with a single tank.
I havent been into any of the other fuel or air lines so I just assumed they
would be the same. Nasty little clips to get out if the tool fails.
As mentioned though, even out in the middle of nowhere, small town
Ontario, Napa had them in stock to my surprise.
Cool. :)

"Ford never learned how to make the same part twice ;)" -my Chevy buddies

Just another in a "encyclopedic sized" list of changes Ford made to stuff. LOL :)

Alvin in AZ
 
#21 ·
I'm getting ready to upgrade my stock 1986 302 EFI single spray injectors to 4 hole spary injectors and I don't remember what size the disconnect fuel line is for the "garter" saftey spring and I want to get the right size disconnect tool, 5/16 or 3/8...?

I thought of just lifting up the rail off the injectors without disconnecting it, I've done it before but I want to repaint the lower intake manifold so I'd like it out of the way....

Thanks ~ :thumbup
 
#24 ·
In case I decide to disconnect the fuel rail at the back I think I have a spare "garter spring"....

What size disconnect tool is correct for my 86, I read Blue line is 3/8 and Grey line is 5/16 but how do I tell what color mine is, where do you look......?


Thanks ~ :thumbup
 
#25 ·
No, putting the injectors into the intake is the last thing - always make sure they're FULL seated in the fuel rail first. Apply clean motor oil to every O-ring &/or nipple in the fuel system before assembly.

Old fuel lines weren't necessarily color-coded, but on '87-91 it's a colored sleeve over the hard nylon line. In any case; the one that goes directly to the fuel rail & injectors is supply (blue, large); the one coming from the FPR is return (gray, small). I already told you which tool - there are only 4 sizes on it, and it'll be obvious which ones fit. You shouldn't need to replace the springs if you use the right tool.

BTW
Painting (even clear) an Aluminum intake just makes it & the air charge slightly hotter, resulting in less power. Leave it bare so it can release more heat, and so that anything attached to it is electrically grounded.
 
#26 ·
OK that's what I was thinking or maybe over thinking but will do Steve, thanks!

Well the intake manifold was painted black as was the rest of the engine when I had that melt down with the new engine back in 2008 and the "warrant guy" just painted everything black instead of the way it was......

I've since repainted the valve covers and FI plenum so I want to be able to see in there to keep an eye on things you know so I'd like the intake manifold to match the valve covers "tool grey" like it was before....but I don't want to take it off tomorrow just to strip it.....soooooo?


Let you know how I make out.....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
#27 ·
OK Bronco fans here's the scoop!

Well I got all the new injectors swapped in with no problem.....started at 8:30 am and just finished putting everything back together nicely. I decided to take a test drive around the neighborhood and the BKO wasn't running good, seemed it wanted to cut out like a stall but if I lightly pressed the gas pedal it was alot better......?

At cold start the idle is very high as usual and didn't want kick down like it used to so I disconnected the IAC and no drop in RPM's so I backed the idle down a bit and that seemed to help but it's around 1100 rpms in P.

OK I pulled codes KOEO and got code: 63 TPS etc. so I took a look at the TPS connector and I hadn't connected it in all the way......took a quick test drive and BBOOOOOOYYYYAAAHHHH back running like a champ and nice idle on restart. So I pulled KOER and 72 MAP etc. so I'll play with tomorrow because I wasn't having any issues with that recently..?

I pull out all the injectors I got from PA Injectors back in 2008 and upon close inspection I find out that these were 4 hole spray injectors to begin with, part number FOTE -D5A which there are seven with that number and one with FOTE D1A.

Hopefully these new injectors will make a difference just becasue they're new and we'll see how the smog test goes in a day or two. I'm closing in on being 2 months over due on the registration but hey I got a fake sticker that should hold up for a few days......lol lol

Thanks ~ :thumbup
 
#30 ·
I opted not to re-paint the lower intake manifold today because the black paint looked kind of worn off and I decided I didn't want to spend the time unless I took it off so thanks for the tip Steve what you suggest made sense and I need all the performance I can get out of this "old gal" you know but gosh I was really worried there for a minute on the test drive when it wasn't running good but fortunatley pulling codes certainly has value and once I fixed the TPS problem I drove it to the grocery store and it ran great, seems a bit smoother, RPMS pull a bit better and the restart idle is great so I'll see what the cold start idle is like tomorrow morning when I go to the hospital but when I get a extra minute...lol lol...I'll get back to that cleaning issue, a fuel pump and swaping injectors in one week really kicked my old ass you know....lol lol

Thanks for all the tips Bro, other then being really tired tonight it wasn't all that bad and I took care of a couple of repairs I found. It seems I did have a bit of fuel leakage trying to lift the fuel rail up from the bottom but one came off from the rail on both sides with minor spill...NBD....but we're good to go and hopefully I'll get past the stupid smog test......

I'll let you guys know how that turns out but geeeezzzz this has been expenisve so far....oh well,driving vintage BKO'S you know...lol lol

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
#31 ·
OK ladies and gentleman the results of todays smog test is....FAIL, same category HC MEAS but only by ONE POINT....what a biatch...down from 103 to 96...needing a 95....

These tech's were looking all under the hood checking my silicone vaccum lines and just fiddle fawking around to the point were I asked them what was going on, did it pass or not and the one tech said we won't know until it prints out so I told them to hurry the fawk up as I didn't have all day..

This one tech also made a comment about my vaccum lines and the conditon of my engine bay, something like who cares how good things look because you don't see it with the hood closed.

I instantly told him the reason for the silicone lines was there are no OEM vaccum line replacements available and that I take a certian pride in my vehicles that obviously he didn't, so he shut up and walked away....what an asshole....:rofl:

SOOOOOO Monday I'll go to the DMV for a 30 day Temporary Operating Permit, re-apply to the Bureau of Automotive Repair and let them pay to figure it out......probably wind up going to a "Star" approved smog and repair center.....I can't imagine what's causing this, I only drove it to the smog test about 25 minutes, stopped a few blocks away and poured in the 1/2 gallon of 91% alcohol.....

One lousy point, what a joke so needless to say I won't be going back there to smog my BKO, almost 20 years going to this place and the cost so far with the permit will be a whopping $419.00 just to smog a 27 year old truck....

Thanks for all the help and support guys we did our best..... if anybody has any other ideas let me know before Monday.....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
#32 ·
Tomorrow is a holiday for us old Veterans but I'll try the DMV Referee Center nearby and see if I can't negotiate something being I'm only 1 point away from passing the BKO's smog issue.

I think the cost is $29.95 for them to check it out but it might be cheaper and quicker this way rather then paying $50.00 for the operating permit, the new cost of analizing what it might be and maybe the BAR pays for I can't imagine what additional parts it might need to replace and solve the unspent fuel issue not too mention another 3-4 weeks to get it done..

So I'll let you know what I find out.....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
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