Tone ring replacment procedure

[orko]

I looked at it and my tone ring is missing some teeth! I want to go in there and replace it but I am not familiar with the internals of the rear axle. I can drain it and get the cover off.. then what? Anyone know of any good write ups on this subject? Also what tolerances should I check to make sure the problem will not recreate itself?

Thanks!
orko

[waltman]

You could just leave it.
But if you do decide to replace it, just make sure you put the shims and the bearings along with the races where they came from.

[orko]

I would but My ABS is always going off. If i disconnect the Rear sensor my transmission shifts super hard and it does'nt down shift right.

[Dave's Bronc 90]

1- Remove carrier cross pin.

2- Push in each axle to expose the c-clip, then remove the c-clip and pull the axle out of the carrier.

3- Mark the orientation of the bearing caps so that they can be reinstalled not only on the correct side, but also facing the right direction. Remove bearing caps.

4- Pull out the carrier, taking extreme caution to not mix up the bearing races and shim packs. They must go back in exactly as they are in right now, or you'll have to do a full gear set up when you put it back in.

5- Remove all of the ring gear bolts and tap off the ring gear with a rubber mallet.

6- Tap off the damaged tone ring and replace it with the new one.

7- Reinstall the ring gear. Many say you should replace the ring gear bolts, it's a subject of some debate. Use a lot of red LocTite and torque them to spec.

8- Put the carrier back in taking care to put the bearing races and shim packs back in their original positions.

9- Reinstall the bearing caps in their original positions, use a lot of red LocTite and torque to spec.

10- Slide the axles back in and reinstall the c-clips.

11- Reinstall the cross pin.

That's pretty much it. It's not hard to do at all, you can do it in less than an hour.

[Ogeechee 4x4]

Dave's the man at regearing!

[johnski]

Originally Posted by Ogeechee 4x4

Dave's the man at regearing!

I've been Dave's lackey during 3 axle builds and can totally back that statement up.

[Steve83]

Originally Posted by Dave's Bronc 90

1- Remove carrier cross pin bolt, and then the pin.

2- Push in each axle to expose the c-clip, then remove the c-clip and pull the axle out of the carrier.

3- Mark the orientation of the bearing caps... The bearing caps are marked for direction when they're cast. Remove bearing caps.

4- Pull out the carrier, taking extreme caution to not mix up the bearing races and shim packs. They must go back in exactly as they are in right now, or you'll have to do a full gear set up when you put it back in.

5- Don't remove anything from the carrier that doesn't fall off.

6- Find the internal locating tooth on the tone ring, then spin the carrier 180° & pry the damaged tone ring away from the ring gear. When it comes off the carrier, push it to disengage the locating tooth.

7- Hook the tooth of the new tone ring into the pocket on the lip of the carrier behind the ring gear, and tap it on.

8- Put the carrier back in taking care to put the bearing races and shim packs back in their original positions.

9- Reinstall the bearing caps in their original positions, use a lot of red LocTite and torque to spec.

10- Slide the axles back in and reinstall the c-clips.

11- Reinstall the cross pin & a NEW bolt, torquing to spec.

That's pretty much it. It's not hard to do at all, you can do it in less than a half hour.

Fixed it fer ya!

[jopes]

If you heat the tone ring with torches or a oven, there is no need to tap it on. you can set it on with ease. Those tone rings are so thin you can break them if you look at them funny.

[sackman9975]

I thought I'd bring up an old thread as I'm reading about many people with this possible problem, including myself. This is the directions I'm gathering:

Originally Posted by Dave's Bronc & Steve83's fixing

1- Remove carrier cross pin bolt, and then the pin.

2- Push in each axle to expose the c-clip, then remove the c-clip and pull the axle out of the carrier.

3- Mark the orientation of the bearing caps... The bearing caps are marked for direction when they're cast. Remove bearing caps.

4- Pull out the carrier, taking extreme caution to not mix up the bearing races and shim packs. They must go back in exactly as they are in right now, or you'll have to do a full gear set up when you put it back in.

5- Don't remove anything from the carrier that doesn't fall off.

6- Find the internal locating tooth on the tone ring, then spin the carrier 180° & pry the damaged tone ring away from the ring gear. When it comes off the carrier, push it to disengage the locating tooth.

7- Hook the tooth of the new tone ring into the pocket on the lip of the carrier behind the ring gear, and tap it on.

8- Put the carrier back in taking care to put the bearing races and shim packs back in their original positions.

9- Reinstall the bearing caps in their original positions, use a lot of red LocTite and torque to spec.

10- Slide the axles back in and reinstall the c-clips.

11- Reinstall the cross pin & a NEW bolt, torquing to spec.

That's pretty much it. It's not hard to do at all, you can do it in less than a half hour.

I redid my spider gears, clutches, axle shaft & axle bearings last year, and I know I have a chipped tone ring so I need to replace it. I didn't replace it then because I wasn't thrilled about removing the carrier. I'm tired of my bouncing speedo and my lack of being able to use my cruise control. I already have the new tone ring, just waiting for the right time to tackle it. I have never taken a carrier out completely except for a ford 9" and those are simple enough. I'm a little nervous about the setup of my gears and don't want to disturb them. This procedure sounds simple enough. So the ring gear does not have to be seperated from the carrier? And the spiders can stay in place also, right? Now what do these shim packs look like, will they show themselves when taking the bearing caps off, and since there is 2 bearing caps this means only two shim packs? What about the carrier bearings that are in there, I did not replace those last year and thought that if I'm about to change the tone ring, then maybe I should change the bearings too. Would changing the carrier bearings screw with the setup of my ring and pinion? What are the torque specs for the bearing caps? I'm sure I can find out by searching but maybe we can just add it to this thread since already alot of info on how to do this. Now I know I put a new bolt in for the cross pin last year at this same time, should I still replace this bolt again? And lastly, WOW.....can be done in less than a half hour so Steve says?

[Steve83]

Pulling the 8.8" carrier is easier than the 9" because the axleshafts are easier to pull, and there's no 3rd member to heft out.

[sackman9975]

TTT Still waiting for some answers for questions I posted. I did look at steve83 diagram so I believe that I know what the shim packs look like, just need answers for carrier bearing change and torque specs for the caps.

[Steve83]

If your bearings aren't pitted or discolored, leave them alone. Torque specs are in the caption of one of the diagrams.

[sackman9975]

Thanks Steve! Your diagrams and knowledge are great!! And if the bearings are pitted? As when I went in there last year, my axle shafts were pitted so I replaced them. Chances are..........lets just hope not!

[Smokingunz351]

Not to hi-jack this thread but,dont they make wheel bearing re-locater kits for these things(i guess thats what they are called). What they do is move the bearings on a differant section on the axle shaft. this would be used on a set of shafts that are worn and cant be fixed unless you move the bearings, also poor bastards like me would use this as i cant afford new axle shafts right now.

[sackman9975]

Originally Posted by Smokingunz351

Not to hi-jack this thread but,dont they make wheel bearing re-locater kits for these things(i guess thats what they are called). What they do is move the bearings on a differant section on the axle shaft. this would be used on a set of shafts that are worn and cant be fixed unless you move the bearings, also poor bastards like me would use this as i cant afford new axle shafts right now.

Yes I've seen them shown on here once before, but I'm not exactly sure what they are called. Maybe they are called axle bearing repair kit. The axle bearing is actually wider so most of the rollers roll on a good portion of the axle shaft.

[Steve83]

Originally Posted by sackman9975

Yes I've seen them shown on here once before...

Perhaps it was in my 8.8" Axle album.