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'94 code 212 mystery IDM Resistor ???
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
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Registered User
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'94 code 212 mystery IDM Resistor ???
Having occasional no-start problems. Last year about this time (probably heat related) same thing, I replaced the PIP (whole dist actually), the coil, ignition wires, and TFI (ICM) which is the remote mounted kind. It was time for those parts anyway, and it solved the problem.
Now a year later, the same no-start, and throwing code 212 (IDM input failure). After a long search, I did the Tech Service Bulletin on the harness, opened up the looms on the harness between the PCM and ignition parts... no issues. It's throwing the 212 code still, and I can't find the IDM resistor. There's some debate whether it even exists on later models in the threads about this. I really suspect the TFI is failing sporadically in the heat, but want to find that damn resistor first. The TFI checks out ok on the bench. Anyone get any clarity on the mysterious 22k ohm resistor?
__________________
"Specialization is for insects..." 94 351 stock with Bug Out options 87 302 4" |
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#2 | |||
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Satyr of the Midwest
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I've done a LOT of research on this in the past few months. It turns out that indeed, Ford turned to a CCD (computer-controlled dwell) ignition module sometime between 1993 and 1995. I only found this out because, like you, I got the code 212 along with some ignition problems. Well, that and Steve83 and I had slight disagreement; I'd incorrectly assumed the parts catalogs to be correct, whereas his recollection was based upon Ford's schematics. Now I only trust the OE schematics and OE part numbers. I've bugged the local Ford dealer's parts people to DEATH over some stupid things like this.
![]() I'll let you read this Standard Tech Tips article to give you a better idea of the difference, how to tell which you have, and what to do about it: Quote:
Like the article says, you'll have to do some checking if you don't remember whether your original module was black or gray. Check the voltage on the TFI connector's #4 pin during cranking. A steady +12V signal during cranking means it's the older push-start (as outlined in the article). If it goes directly to the #4 pin on the PCM, it's a CCD. Here's the F'ed up part: try asking for a CCD TFI ignition module in a parts store. ![]() Not to worry. The Wells part number is F139, Niehoff's is FF413, BWD is CBE40, and Standard's number is LX-241, if that helps. Even Motorcraft's catalog was superseded by the push-start module; I guess Ford doesn't particularly care whether your diagnostic systems are working properly or not. An alternative is to look up the ignition module for a 1994-1995 Mustang GT. These should also have the same, remote-mounted CCD modules the later Broncos should have. In this application, the Motorcraft part number is DY1077, with OE numbers: {#5U2Z-12A297-D, DY679, or F1PZ-12A297-A}.
__________________
SigEpBlue Wheelin' across Michigan from Ida to Grand Rapids, baby! ![]() Quote:
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Outstanding. Thank you.
My original TFI is black, and the one they sold me last year is grey. The rest of that Tech Tip concurs with what I saw in the harness... connections to pin 4 on the EEC, no 22k resistor, and slightly different wiring pattern than Haynes shows sans that resistor. I've traced and verified all the wires from the EEC to all ignition components, so I'm pretty sure the no-start is from heat (it's like 100 degrees here right now) and a faulty TIF. I might attribute the wrong TIF module I got last year to some very subtle drive problems, and of course the 212 code. Great post, thanks again. That one definitely goes in the files. P.S. may not be news to others, but I hate printing stuff like this in IE, it ****les the formatting. Been using Mozilla Firefox, and you can adjust the print parameters and print out something like the above post perfectly.... too cool |
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#4 |
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Satyr of the Midwest
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NP.
Just another FYI: fault in the spark plug wires and/or ignition coil can cause the ignition module to fail. All of the coil's inductive energy has to go somewhere, and if there's an open in the secondary circuit, you can bet it's going to push uphill. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: South Eastern Pennsylvina
Posts: 135
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1995 Bronco E.B. Sixlitre Ignition Upgrade, Tranny External Filter, Warn Premium Hubs
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I spent two days looking for the resistor, could not find it. My EEC is also black, the parts person gave me a gray one, had more problems with the gray one. My problem was no PIP signal, new dizzy solved the problem. THANK YOU !!! for this info!!!
Sean |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Just got back from Zone, we tested the old (somewhat functional) and new (suspect) TFIs. Both failed, though it took more than one test run to get the newer to fail. Of course the only one they had was the incorrect Grey one. Picked it up anyway to have a spare, and will find the lifetime warranty paper for the other one I bought last year.
Should be back on the road tomorrow. |
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Westerly, RI
Posts: 4
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1988 Bronco Police Truck, 1995 5.8 4" lift
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I have the same 212 code popping up. But my trouble is not the ICM I've triede both of them. Hers whats happening: After the engine heats up if I turn it off sometimes it wont start back up just turns over, Fuel pressure is good, Timing is right, cap and rotor are good, plugs and wires are good, I've replaced every sensor I can find, the coil is new, the started is new and Ive checked all my electrical connections and everything looks good. IS there anything else I can do? driving me crazy and broke :(. Please help!
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#8 |
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Satyr of the Midwest
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You can't have a code 212 on a 1988 Bronco. You have two-digit codes in that model year. If you were seeing a DTC 21, which is what I think you really saw, then that indicates that the ECT is out of self-test limits.
Stop throwing sensors at it. You're wasting an enormous amount of time and money doing that, and it may in fact make the existing problems worse (you run the risk of damaging other components when you replace sensors). I keep telling people here: DIAGNOSE, TEST, SERVICE. In that order and no other. ![]() |
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#10 |
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Satyr of the Midwest
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Ah, gotcha. No biggie.
![]() In that case, I'd start looking for a faulty PIP. There's a diagnostic procedure...umm....somewhere around here or in the Haynes manual. ![]() Honestly, the best diagnostic I've found for a bad PIP is to watch the tachometer on the dashboard. If there's no PIP, there's no tach signal. No tach signal, no tachometer reading during cranking. EDIT: I was thinking of DTC 211. DOH! The definition for 212 is "Loss of IDM input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded." In that case, of course check for a grounded spOUT first, and then check out the TSB in Steve83's SuperMotors.net page regarding this condition. In essence, the shielding around the ignition harness likes to cut into the wiring sometimes. That's one important item to check. Another is the connection between the IDM line (pin 4? on the PCM) and the ignition control module. An open or faulty connection here can trip that code as well. I don't have my Ford tech service CD handy right now, but there are other things to check. You tried both a black ignition module (one for, say, a 1994-5 Mustang GT) and a gray one, with no change? Did you clear the DTCs after changing modules? |
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Westerly, RI
Posts: 4
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1988 Bronco Police Truck, 1995 5.8 4" lift
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Yeah I have a black BWD CBE40 that was for a musatang and a napa grey one that says its for a 95 bronco. I'll the shielding after work tomorrow. thnx. I'll post an update as soon as I'm finished.
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 4,088
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 89 E. Bauer (currently languishing in the backyard)/79 Ranchero GT (soon to become DD)
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Hey Sig, good on ya for that exemplary work. I've been doing my job for about ten years now, and even I didn't know about the different modules. Thank you.
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#13 |
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can I go to bed yet?
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__________________
Ryan McCormick RJM Injection Tech My Bronco Ford Fuel Injection.com Technical Library Parts replacement is not auto repair, if you can’t diagnose, don’t open the hood! |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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One thing I am confused on, does the black CCM module that is dizzy mounted have the same three prongs that fit up into the dizzy as the gray push start one does? I looked up the part numbers Sig provides and they show the TFI module to be black with no three connector spades. Fireguy posted and it looks like you can get both the the push start and the CCM in either a dizzy mounted version that has the 3 spades or the remote version that does not. Can someone please clarify for me. Thanks. I am just trying to figure out which version this WAY1 computer I have needs. Trying to rewire before putting EFI harness back in and having to tear it apart again once I crank it up and get code 212.
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#15 |
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Satyr of the Midwest
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The CCD ignition modules were used only in remote-mount applications, IIRC. There MAY have been an application, like an Escort or Taurus, that had a CCD ignition module mounted on the distributor, but I really don't know as I haven't looked into it. That WAY1 was used exclusively with a remote-mounted ignition module, though.
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#18 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Westerly, RI
Posts: 4
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1988 Bronco Police Truck, 1995 5.8 4" lift
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after following all the wiring with a flash light I wasnt able to find any shorts or crimps in the wire. under the shielding everything looked really good clean almost new. Any other ideas?
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#19 |
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Satyr of the Midwest
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Test the PIP.
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#20 |
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Registered User
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On the Grey TFI module, I tore into my harness to do the rewire for use with the Black module. I found that wrapped in a black sheath with 22 Ohm stamped on the outside, two wires, both Brown/Yellow on one side, one goes to the TFI plug, the other goes to ground at the Coil. On the other side, I had a Brown/Yellow and a White/Red (dashed), which I figure one goes to pin 4 on the EEC, the other to the Tach. I had a hard time tearing into that shealth cover, but inside, it looks to me like there is a resitor on each line, one on to the EEC wire and the other on the tach wire. Fireguy's diagram does not show a resistor on the tach wire. I printed out my schematic from Alldata and sure enough, a 1990 shows the wire coming off the TFI plug, and a restor on the EEC line and the tach line as well. Since the Black TFI module I will be using does the resistance internally, I know that I do not need the resistor for the wire going to the EEC. Question is, do I need to leave the resistor in place going to the tach?
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