FullSizeBronco.com - 78 - 96 Ford Bronco offroad club, forums, tech, installs

jhjones84 · 08-20-2009, 09:15 PM

I have a 77 f250 with a 73 460 in it. When i got it the guy was running points and had the harness cut up. To shut the truck off you had to use a kill switch.
I found a 79 f150 with a 351 in it that I took the harness and dist. off of. Now that harness is in my truck and when you turn the key to the on position it turns over and the coil isn't getting spark. Does anybody know what could do this. I got a new ignition switch, ignition control module and coil and it is still doing it. Under the hooh there are a couple plugs that don't go to anything under the hood. can someone post picks of there engine bay on the right and left sides thanks.I'm to the point where im ready to scrap it.

vreference · 08-21-2009, 12:59 AM

So you put in the breakerless igntion module too? You've pretty much got the entire '79 harness from ignition computer all the way to the igntion switch? Assuming you have the ignition module in and the truck runs if you jumper something; you are just missing one wire. R-BLU (all the way from switch to computer) on both the 77 and 79 is the momentary power for the start position that runs both the starter solenoid and the ignition module. The computer actually has two power wires the R-Blu wire for starting and then the wire that is either white or blue depending on year for the run position.

If you are trying to use a breakerless igntion distributor with no module, of course you won't get spark no matter what.

jhjones84 · 08-21-2009, 08:28 PM

Breakerless ignition module? If your talking about the icm I have that and its good. Ill try tracing those wires tonight thanks alot.

jhjones84 · 08-21-2009, 10:30 PM

I traced some more wires tonight and I cant figure anything out. I still have the points distributor coil plug wires and everything so I think thats the route im gonna go. My plan is to use a push button for the starter and a toggle to cut power to the coil. What all would I need to do to get this thing running.

InfoFord · 08-22-2009, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhjones84

I traced some more wires tonight and I cant figure anything out. I still have the points distributor coil plug wires and everything so I think thats the route im gonna go. My plan is to use a push button for the starter and a toggle to cut power to the coil. What all would I need to do to get this thing running.

if you going to do this why did you bother to swap the harness?

jhjones84 · 08-22-2009, 03:39 PM

Because I wanted to use the electronic ignition and before everything was cut up in the harness. It ran good but I had no gauges or anything.

InfoFord · 08-23-2009, 03:31 PM

you simply hooked up a wire wrong thus causing you this grief is it best to figure out the problem and fix it rather then butcher up yet another harness and undoing what you have done so far

jhjones84 · 08-23-2009, 03:46 PM

Alright I've got someone whos coming over to look at it tuesday. Just a thought though is there a difference between 77 and 79 harnesses. In the back of the haynes manual there seperate sections. Oh and can someone post pics of there starter sylonoid. Thanks

***jopes*** · 08-23-2009, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhjones84

Oh and can someone post pics of there starter sylonoid. Thanks

http://www.metropartsmarket.com/cata...oid_Fomoco.jpg

jhjones84 · 08-24-2009, 09:39 PM

Thanks for the pic but i was looking for one in a truck to see what wires went were.

79FordF250 · 11-03-2009, 09:24 PM

check the two wires that go to the solenoid. Chances are you have them switched and it will do exactly what you are describing, trust me, i know from experience.

**7LBRONCO** · 11-04-2009, 01:23 AM

I pulled the harness from a 77 F150, and plugged it into my 78 F250. No cuts or splices, from the pigtail on the ICM, to the other side of the engine.

Unplug the 2 small wires on the soledoid, the ones with the 90* boots. Now turn the key to the run position. Find which of the 2 wires is hot. That wire goes on the small stud towards the front of the truck, I believe. The other wire goes on the other small stud. There's only 2 combinations, so if one doesn't work, try the other.

08-20-2009, 09:15 PM	#1
jhjones84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Bridgeport West Virginia Posts: 190 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1992 f150 6'' lift 35" tires k&n open air cleaner bumpers sliders winch warn hubs racing seats jhjones84s Garage	cranking over in on position I have a 77 f250 with a 73 460 in it. When i got it the guy was running points and had the harness cut up. To shut the truck off you had to use a kill switch. I found a 79 f150 with a 351 in it that I took the harness and dist. off of. Now that harness is in my truck and when you turn the key to the on position it turns over and the coil isn't getting spark. Does anybody know what could do this. I got a new ignition switch, ignition control module and coil and it is still doing it. Under the hooh there are a couple plugs that don't go to anything under the hood. can someone post picks of there engine bay on the right and left sides thanks.I'm to the point where im ready to scrap it.

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cranking over in on position

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08-21-2009, 12:59 AM	#2
vreference Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 244 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1978 Custom, 4 Speed, 6" Deavers, James Duff Radius Arms, Shackle flip, DetroitLocker 9", Aussie D44 vreferences Garage	So you put in the breakerless igntion module too? You've pretty much got the entire '79 harness from ignition computer all the way to the igntion switch? Assuming you have the ignition module in and the truck runs if you jumper something; you are just missing one wire. R-BLU (all the way from switch to computer) on both the 77 and 79 is the momentary power for the start position that runs both the starter solenoid and the ignition module. The computer actually has two power wires the R-Blu wire for starting and then the wire that is either white or blue depending on year for the run position. If you are trying to use a breakerless igntion distributor with no module, of course you won't get spark no matter what.

08-21-2009, 08:28 PM	#3
jhjones84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Bridgeport West Virginia Posts: 190 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1992 f150 6'' lift 35" tires k&n open air cleaner bumpers sliders winch warn hubs racing seats jhjones84s Garage	Breakerless ignition module? If your talking about the icm I have that and its good. Ill try tracing those wires tonight thanks alot.

08-21-2009, 10:30 PM	#4
jhjones84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Bridgeport West Virginia Posts: 190 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1992 f150 6'' lift 35" tires k&n open air cleaner bumpers sliders winch warn hubs racing seats jhjones84s Garage	I traced some more wires tonight and I cant figure anything out. I still have the points distributor coil plug wires and everything so I think thats the route im gonna go. My plan is to use a push button for the starter and a toggle to cut power to the coil. What all would I need to do to get this thing running.

08-22-2009, 03:39 PM	#6
jhjones84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Bridgeport West Virginia Posts: 190 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1992 f150 6'' lift 35" tires k&n open air cleaner bumpers sliders winch warn hubs racing seats jhjones84s Garage	Because I wanted to use the electronic ignition and before everything was cut up in the harness. It ran good but I had no gauges or anything.

08-23-2009, 03:31 PM	#7
InfoFord Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Great Falls Montana Posts: 1,391 iTrader: (4) Bronco Info: Picador 4 door bronco EFI 460 E4OD electric shift 1356 Tcase 3.55 10.25 rear, 3.54 Dana 44 front InfoFords Garage	you simply hooked up a wire wrong thus causing you this grief is it best to figure out the problem and fix it rather then butcher up yet another harness and undoing what you have done so far

08-23-2009, 03:46 PM	#8
jhjones84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Bridgeport West Virginia Posts: 190 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1992 f150 6'' lift 35" tires k&n open air cleaner bumpers sliders winch warn hubs racing seats jhjones84s Garage	Alright I've got someone whos coming over to look at it tuesday. Just a thought though is there a difference between 77 and 79 harnesses. In the back of the haynes manual there seperate sections. Oh and can someone post pics of there starter sylonoid. Thanks

08-24-2009, 09:39 PM	#10
jhjones84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Bridgeport West Virginia Posts: 190 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1992 f150 6'' lift 35" tires k&n open air cleaner bumpers sliders winch warn hubs racing seats jhjones84s Garage	Thanks for the pic but i was looking for one in a truck to see what wires went were.

11-03-2009, 09:24 PM	#11
79FordF250 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 1 iTrader: (0) 79FordF250s Garage	check the two wires that go to the solenoid. Chances are you have them switched and it will do exactly what you are describing, trust me, i know from experience.

11-04-2009, 01:23 AM	#12
7LBRONCO Fullsize Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Gunnison, CO Posts: 538 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 78 XLT, 429 Thunderjet, C6, shackle flip in rear, 4" springs in front, 7LBRONCOs Garage	I pulled the harness from a 77 F150, and plugged it into my 78 F250. No cuts or splices, from the pigtail on the ICM, to the other side of the engine. Unplug the 2 small wires on the soledoid, the ones with the 90* boots. Now turn the key to the run position. Find which of the 2 wires is hot. That wire goes on the small stud towards the front of the truck, I believe. The other wire goes on the other small stud. There's only 2 combinations, so if one doesn't work, try the other.