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Question about trans fluid longevity and contamination
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#1 |
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Registered User
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Question about trans fluid longevity and contamination
Is it possible that the trans fluid could need to be changed after only 10,000 miles (8 months) since the it had a full flush (a lot of the 10,000 miles was towing a bass boat)? I was thinknig that since the flush was done at 73,000 miles that it could need to be changed (not full flush) because of all the junk that got knocked loose or because of the towing. Does the TC fluid get flushed/changed when a shop hooks up that machine to do the full trans flush? Maybe they never touched that fluid. I've never been inside the trans so I'm just thinking outloud.
Could the fluid get contaminated from a dying/dead radiator/water pump or anything else? During a recent new radiator installation, I noticed the trans fluid that leaked when I unhooked the trans line looked like it does in the bottle, it did not look brownish or smell odd. I did notice however that the fluid on the trans dipstick seemed to have air bubbles in it. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Yes, anything is possible. If you are concerned, change the fluid out and make sure to drain the TC. If you are towing often, you trans will definitely thank you to install a big trans cooler and an external filter if you are so inclined.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=130945 http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...mission+cooler I try to change my trans fluid yearly as part of my regular maintenance. E4ODs are EXPENSIVE to have rebuilt. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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air bubbles
When I checked the trans fluid today after a 20 minute drive, the dipstick was full of air bubbles and WAY over the crosshairs. I searched and found that this could mean low fluid or too much fluid. I have not touched the trans fluid since the flush except for adding a bottle of lucas trans fix last week b/c of a shudder. The bottle stated that you do not have to drain any fluid before adding it. What's everyone's take on the bubbles? It's not one or two bubbles, the whole end of the dipstick is air bubbles.
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#7 | ||
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Satyr of the Midwest
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And foaming the fluid will make you burn the transmission even faster, since air, not oil, is there to lubricate the bearings and gears.
__________________
SigEpBlue Wheelin' across Michigan from Ida to Grand Rapids, baby! ![]() Quote:
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#8 |
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Fullsize Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,693
iTrader: (5) Bronco Info: 1995 XL, E4OD, 4 inch lift, 35s, 350Z Seats...
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I gotta disagree with that. Although it is not a true fix, I have used the lucas trans additive in the past and had great results... I dont recommend people run out and use it at the first sign of trans problems, but if someone knows its only a short matter of time before their trans bites the bullet, it can help extend that time significantly.
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I'm half man, half dog. I'm my own best friend. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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I put it in b/c there was a shudder. So I guess its safe to say that the air bubbles are not causing the shudder, since the lucas oil caused the bubbles. Unless it was low before I used the lucas oil and now its too full...although would that much of a difference cause an issue. We'll find out tomorrow when I change the tranny fluid. Should I pull the trans line at the bottom of the radiator to get even more out?
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#10 | |
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Pick Pick Pick
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: where havn't I lived? Now in Erie, CO
Posts: 12,187
iTrader: (9) Bronco Info: 95XLT351 E4OD SAS 44/ARB/Alloy shafts-joints. D60 rear/Detroit. 4wheel disc,37" Iroks, 4.56etc.
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______________________ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/628 "TheJuice...yes, that was my name. I come back to you now at the turn of the second decade...my name is Shadofax" |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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I'm going to drop the pan tomorrow, drain the fluid and drain the TC, and change the filter. I'll refill with Mercon.
I am a little confused on how to get the TC drain plug to line up with the access hole. |
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#12 |
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Pick Pick Pick
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: where havn't I lived? Now in Erie, CO
Posts: 12,187
iTrader: (9) Bronco Info: 95XLT351 E4OD SAS 44/ARB/Alloy shafts-joints. D60 rear/Detroit. 4wheel disc,37" Iroks, 4.56etc.
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Well, unless you have one of those hand held bump starts to turn over the motor, you'd have to crank the motor (disconnect coil wire so no start, just crank) and that's just a lucky crap shoot until it aligns.
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#14 | ||
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Enjoy my
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That or put a ratchet on the crank pulley...
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