Common Replies to FAQs - FSB Forums
Register Home Forums Active Topics Photo Gallery All Albums Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance FSB Store
FullsizeBronco.com is the premier Ford Bronco Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-18-2010, 02:43 AM   #1
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
Common Replies to FAQs

I got tired of looking for these replies whenever one of the regular questions comes up. So I'm throwing them here to be refined & reused as needed. These are by no means the complete answers to these questions, but are meant to be taken as part of the info available. It's better to read the complete threads that contain the other answers too.

Feel free to correct mine or add your own. Post it up here & I'll add it to the contents in post 1. Just use the same Q & A format. If you have more info on something that's already there, just use the same number as the original question, & I'll add it on the same line. If we all kick in answers to these common questions, we should be able to cover a lot of ground.




....0- Contents (Post 1)

....1- What year Bronco should I buy? (Post 2)
....2- What are common problems to watch out for when buying a Bronco? (Post 2)

....3- How do I fix my back window? (Post 3)

....4- How do I post pics? (Post 4)

....5- How do I add a little picture under my name at the left of the screen? (Post 5)
....6- How do I change the stuff under my name at the left of the screen? (Post 5)
....7- How do I add a signature under my posts? (Post 5)
....8- Why doesn't my signature always show up? (Post 5)

....9- How do I Bleed My Brakes? (Post 6)

....10- My Rear ABS light comes on (87-92). Why? (Post 8)
....11- My Rear brakes drag (87-92). Why? (Post 8)

....12- Will 33 inch tires rub on my Bronco? (Post 9)

....13- What do the axle gear ratio numbers mean? (3.55:1, 4.10:1, etc.) (Post 10)
....14- Which gears are higher or lower? (Post 10)
....15- What gear ratio do I have? (Post 10)
....16- If I change the rear gears do I have to change the front too? (Post 10)
....17- How do I choose the right gears? (Post 10)

....18- Where can I find info about my Holley carburetor? (Post 11)
....19- Why does my engine stumble when I step on the gas? (Post 11)

....20- Why won't my tailgate open even if the window is rolled all the way down? (Post 12)

....21- I'm going to visit the Los Angeles area. What is there to do? (Post 13)

....22- My Bronco doesn't have an exterior tire carrier. Can I add one? (Post 14)

....23 -My Bronco won't turn over (Won't crank, start, make the Rrrr Rrrr Rrrr sound), but makes a screeching, grinding, clicking, or buzzing noise when I try to start it. Why? (Post 15)

....24 -My Bronco won't turn over (Won't crank, start, make the Rrrr Rrrr Rrrr sound), & makes no other sounds under the hood. Why? (Post 16)

....25 -My bronco won't start. It cranks over but has no spark, why? theramsey3 (Post 17)

....26-What Transfer Case Do I Have? Ziggy (Post 21)

....27-I found a 2wd transmission that I want to use. Can I simply unbolt the tailhousing and bolt on a t-case adapter? Dustball (Post 22)

....28- I'm trying to start a vehicle that has been sitting for a long time. What should I do? (Post 23)

....29- My truck has a vibration. How do I check U-joints? (Post 24)

....30- How do I test my hubs? (Post 25)
....31- How do I know my transfer case is engaging? (Post 25)

....32- How Do I Operate My Manual Hubs? (Except for 87 to Early 88 Flange Type Hubs) miesk5 (Post 26)

....33- How do I test my 96's Automatic Locking Hubs? miesk5 (Post 26)

....34-How do I test my 96's Manual Locking Hubs? miesk5 (Post 26)

....35- How Do I Test Manual Locking Hubs? (Except for 87 to Early 88 Flange Type Hubs) miesk5 (Post 26)

....36- How Do I Troubleshoot the Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift-On-The- Fly (ESOF) Transfer Case & Locking Hubs? miesk5 (Post 26)

....37- Will Changing Just Two Tires to a Different Size (Diameter/Circumference) &/Or Air Pressure Difference Affect My Bronco in 4x4 Mode?
..........miesk5 (Post 26)

....38- Why do I need 75 posts to see the classified section? (Post 27)

....39- Should I install a Flex Fan on my Bronco? (Post 28)

....40- Do I need 30 Posts to start a Thread on FSB? (Post 29)
....41- How do I ask questions without 30 Posts? (Post 29)
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-18-2010, 02:43 AM   #2
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
1- What year Bronco should I buy?
2- What are common problems to watch out for when buying a Bronco?

The body style breaks are 78-79, 80-86, 87-91, & 92-96. If you look thru the Post a Pic of your Bronco 80-96 Thread & Post a Picture of your Bronco 78-79 Thread you can see the different styles. As they get newer, wheel openings seem to get smaller.

1980 had an odd frame with holes in it. In 81 they went back to the solid frame. I think in 92 they went to the accordion style frame horns, so it can be trickier to add recovery points. 87 & some 88s with manual hubs had the top hat hubs which are expensive to replace, & require a lot of additional parts to swap to the more common hubs, avoid those if you can. 87 & 88 auto hubs can be swapped easily like other years. Auto hubs are prone to fail, but changing to manual hubs is pretty simple. Don't let auto hubs deter you from buying an otherwise good truck, just plan on making the switch. There are several good write ups on swapping them if the time comes.

Broncos with 302s had EFI before the 351s. As you move to newer trucks, the electronic systems become more advanced. If it has EFI, you should be able to pull codes from the computer to help with diagnostic issues. 96s (Maybe some 95s) are MAF (Which is more adaptable to intake/cam changes) & are OBDII. 87-92 had rear antilock brakes, 93-96 have 4 wheel ABS.

78-79 are the only years that came stock with solid front axles, which the rock crawlers like. The high speed desert guys seem to prefer the TTB independent front axle which is stock from 80-96.

All full size Broncos had the removable tops, but the newer ones (92+?) have rear seat shoulder belt mounting points & 3rd brake lights, so they aren't supposed to be removed.

The later years come with an E4OD 4 speed overdrive tranny. It's a heavy duty trans, but doesn't like heat & is expensive to rebuild. Make sure it's in good shape. It's a good idea to add an external filter & cooler if you get one (Like this: Trans Filter, Cooler & THERMOSTAT install by Fireguy50 or this VOTE For Sept.'07 FOTM by Sixlitre -Post 173 Trans filter.) They did do some upgrades to the newest E4ODs, & when the older ones are rebuilt, they should include those upgrades. If you are using it primarily offroad, you might prefer an older truck with a C-6 (Non overdrive) trans. There were other trannies used as well & adrianspeeder's Bronco Tranny and T-Case Info thread has a bunch of trans/engine/year combo info.

As for being lifted, you'd rather have extended radius arms than radius arm drop brackets. Blocks are definitely bad in the front, & aren't the best solution for the rear either. Take a look thru the lift section of Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links for several links on the subject.

Both manual & electric shift t-cases were available in late 80s-96. Most of us think the manual ones are more reliable, but in salt belt trucks sometimes the manual linkage is more trouble. There's a good electronic shift diagnostic routine that kf4amu links regularly, & shadowfax & others have writeups on rebuilds & swaps. Both electric & manual shift thru later years are BW 1356 t-cases, so internally the works are the same, even though shifters won't interchange. RickyB makes an electric to manual conversion called the "Shiftster".

If you're looking for common problems, watch out for rust over the rear wheel well openings & bottom of the tailgate. It usually starts on the inside, so if you see it, it's probably all the way thru. Rain gutter & bottom of the B pillar are also places to look. The rear window will act up on most of these eventually, but the problems usually aren't bad to fix. Don't let a stuck window scare you off, use it as a bargaining chip.

For my use, if I was buying one today, I'd probably be looking at an 89 351w or a 78-79. The 89 is very similar to my 90, (Which I like a lot & have grown familiar with) but the 89 has a C-6 behind the 351. I don't drive mine much on the freeway, so I don't think I'd miss the OD. The 89 also has electronic fuel injection, which is great for steep trails. 78-79s are just cool, simpler (If you learned on carbureted engines anyway ), have larger wheel openings, & have solid axles.
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2010, 09:48 AM   #3
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
3- How do I fix my back window?

The stuff below is mostly cut & paste from an earlier reples, but it covers a lot of tailgate window stuff. Use what applies to your situation. To bypass everything & get it closed or open, see the "Testing" section below.

Be aware that:

-The tailgate latch switch on the driver's side seems to be a common problem, check it early. It keeps the window from being moved when the tailgate is open, & if not latched right, it'll keep the window from working at all. Try pushing the driver's side of the tailgate in while holding the button or key switch in the up or down position. If that makes it work, check out Steve83's "How to align a Bronco Tailgate" link in #6 below & JKossarides info on door striker bushings in link #7 below.

-Ground for the motor connects up front, & at rest runs from there through both switches & both wires to the motor.

-When either switch is operated, 1 side's ground is disconnected & replaced by hot at that switch.

-Ground for the motor is not connected to its case, but supplied through the wires.

-There are 2 separate power sources & 2 fuses/circuit breakers for positive. 1 for each switch.

-The same 2 wires are used throughout for both up & down (Polarity is reversed by the switches).

-When the tailgate is open, you have to close the driver's side latch for the window to operate. Remember to open it before closing the tailgate.


Some good resource links:

1-Fireguy50's wiring diagram, see post 2. Great color diagram for 80-96s, it makes it much easier to understand what's going on. NOTE: Fireguy's original diagram appears to be gone at this time, but Steve83 has a copy here on his Supermotors. Thanks Steve.

2-Steve83's Tailgate Window Motor Circuit -Wiring diagram for 92-95s, laid out on a Bronco sketch to show locations of the various components.

3-Tailgate WIndow Wiring Diagram miesk5 provides a diagram for 78-79s by the ORC Staff at ford.off-road.com in post 3

4-Steve83's Tailgate Tech. Great pics & info. Look through the entire section for the portion that applies to your problem. The 1st pic explains testing for the dash switch. Almost to the bottom of the page is a method to bypass the dash switch & test the rest of the components. Click on any pic for a larger version.

5-adrianspeeder's pics (He's doing torque pins for a passenger window, for the tailgate you don't need to drill).

6-Torque pins, motors, etc.

7-Steve83's How to align a Bronco Tailgate

8-JKossarides' info on replacement striker bushing numbers & wiring harness issues -See post 3.

9-Fireguy50's Re-wire your Tailgate window switch (FINISHED) Upgrade diagram using relays.


Testing:

If it works in some directions but not others see table "D" below before performing tests. Sometimes the symptoms can lead you to the probable cause. It is best to test to confirm before replacing parts, but the symptoms can narrow down where to test.

Does it make any noise at all? Like the motor's turning, but the window doesn't move? If so, there are torque pins in the motor's drive gear that commonly break & aren't too bad to replace. See the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links above. If you keep your hands clear, sometimes you can manually "help" the window close while someone runs the motor. If it makes no noise, then it's probably in the electrical system. Fireguy50's wiring diagram is linked above.

To test the electrical system, remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector (Yellow & red wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works. To lower the window, it should be positive to red, & negative to yellow. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This method also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing, or close the window to temporarily get through bad weather).

A- If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests:

A.1- With both switches at rest & the latch switch closed, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find.

A.2- With the latch switch closed, connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find.

A.3- If everything tests ok, but it still doesn't run, there's a couple more possible causes to check:
-Sometimes the connector for the tailgate motor will test ok, but not make contact when plugged in. You might try backprobing the motor side wires with the plug connected. On mine I removed it & soldered the connections.
-It's possible for a damaged wire to carry enough load to show 12v on a tester, but not enough to operate the motor. Look for worn areas, especially in the loom between the body & the tailgate. A worn switch can also show those symptoms.

B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links above for the torque pin replacement.

C- If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. See Steve83's Tailgate Tech link above & use the info for removing & replacing the motor.



D-If it works in some directions but not others:

Take a look through the combination of symptoms listed below for a list of possible causes. Test the components to confirm. This section is new & I'll continue to revise & clarify it as time allows. If you find something that is missing or needs to be tweaked, please let me know.
D.01
Yes -Dash switch up
Yes -Dash switch down
Yes -Key switch up
Yes -Key switch down
  • All is good. Why are you here?
___________________________________
D.02
No --Dash switch up
Yes -Dash switch down
Yes -Key switch up
Yes -Key switch down
Possible causes:
  • Bad dash switch hot contact. Since it works for down at the dash switch & both directions from the key switch, you know that the wiring between switches, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works for one direction from the dash switch, you know you have power to the dash switch. Since it works in both directions from the key switch, you know you have good power & contacts at the key switch, good ground to the dash switch, & good ground contacts thru the dash switch.
___________________________________
D.03
Yes -Dash switch up
No --Dash switch down
Yes -Key switch up
Yes -Key switch down
Possible causes:
  • Bad dash switch hot contact. Since it works for up at the dash switch & both directions from the key switch, you know that the wiring between switches, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works for one direction from the dash switch, you know you have power to the dash switch. Since it works in both directions from the key switch, you know you have good power & contacts at the key switch, good ground to the dash switch, & good ground contacts thru the dash switch.
___________________________________
D.04
No --Dash switch up
No --Dash switch down
Yes -Key switch up
Yes -Key switch down
Possible causes:
  • No power from the fuse/circuit breaker. The tailgate switch has a separate power source. Check the fuse/breaker for the dash switch.
  • Bad dash switch hot contacts. Since it works from the key switch, you know that the wiring between switches, key switch, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.
  • Bad hot wire to the dash switch.
___________________________________
D.05
Yes -Dash switch up
Yes -Dash switch down
No --Key switch up
Yes -Key switch down
Possible causes:
  • Bad key switch hot contact. Since it works for up & down at the dash switch, you know that all the wiring, dash switch, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works for one direction from the key switch, you know you have power to the key switch.
___________________________________
D.06
Yes -Dash switch up
Yes -Dash switch down
Yes -Key switch up
No --Key switch down
Possible causes:
  • Bad key switch hot contact. Since it works for up & down at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works for one direction from the key switch, you know you have power to the key switch.
___________________________________
D.07
Yes -Dash switch up
Yes -Dash switch down
No --Key switch up
No --Key switch down
Possible causes:
  • No power from the fuse/circuit breaker for the tailgate key switch. The tailgate key switch has a separate power source than the dash switch.
  • Bad hot wire to the tailgate key switch.
  • Bad key switch hot contacts. Since it works for up & down at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.
___________________________________
D.08
Yes -Dash switch up
No --Dash switch down
Yes -Key switch up
No --Key switch down
Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works in one direction from the key switch you know that power to the key switch is good. A bad ground contact in the dash switch would cause both switches to quit working in one direction.
Possible causes:
  • A bad ground contact in the dash switch.
  • A bad hot contact in the dash switch & a bad hot contact in the tailgate switch at the same time. This seems less likely, but it is possible.
___________________________________
D.09
No --Dash switch up
Yes -Dash switch down
No --Key switch up
Yes -Key switch down
Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works in one direction from the key switch, you know that power to the key switch is good. A bad ground contact in the dash switch would cause both switches to quit working in one direction.
Possible causes:
  • A bad ground contact in the dash switch.
  • A bad hot contact in the dash switch & a bad hot contact in the tailgate switch at the same time. This seems less likely, but it is possible.
___________________________________
D.10
Yes -Dash switch up
No --Dash switch down
No --Key switch up
Yes -Key switch down
Possible causes:
  • This sounds like multiple problems. Probably a bad hot contact in the dash switch & an opposite bad hot contact in the tailgate switch. Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works in one direction from the key switch you know power to the key switch is good.
___________________________________
D.11
No --Dash switch up
Yes -Dash switch down
Yes -Key switch up
No --Key switch down
Possible causes:
  • This sounds like multiple problems. Probably a bad hot contact in the dash switch & an opposite bad hot contact in the tailgate switch. Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working. Since it works in one direction from the key switch you know power to the key switch is good.
___________________________________
D.12
Yes -Dash switch up
No --Dash switch down
No --Key switch up
No --Key switch down
This sounds like multiple problems. Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.
Possible causes:
  • A bad hot contact in the dash switch & no power from the breaker to the tailgate switch.
  • A bad hot contact in the dash switch & bad hot wire to the tailgate switch.
  • A bad hot contact in the dash switch & bad hot contacts in the tailgate switch.
  • A bad ground down contact in the dash switch & a bad hot up contact in the key switch.
  • A combination of the above problems.
___________________________________
D.13
No --Dash switch up
Yes -Dash switch down
No --Key switch up
No --Key switch down
This sounds like multiple problems. Since it works for one direction at the dash switch, you know that the wiring between switches, dash switch power, key switch ground/pass thru contacts, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.
Possible causes:
  • A bad hot contact in the dash switch & no power from the breaker to the tailgate switch.
  • A bad hot contact in the dash switch & a bad hot wire to the tailgate switch.
  • A bad hot contact in the dash switch & bad hot contacts in the tailgate switch.
  • A bad ground up contact in the dash switch & a bad hot down contact in the key switch.
  • A combination of the above problems.
___________________________________
D.14
No --Dash switch up
No --Dash switch down
Yes -Key switch up
No --Key switch down
This sounds like multiple problems. Since it works for one direction at the key switch, you know that at least one wire between switches, key switch power, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.
Possible causes:
  • A bad hot contact in the key switch & no power from the breaker to the dash switch.
  • A bad hot contact in the key switch & a bad hot wire to the dash switch.
  • A bad hot contact in the key switch & bad hot contacts in the dash switch.
  • A bad ground down contact in the dash switch & a bad hot up contact in the key switch.
  • One bad wire between switches & a bad hot contact in the key switch.
  • A combination of the above problems.
___________________________________
D.15
No --Dash switch up
No --Dash switch down
No --Key switch up
Yes -Key switch down
This sounds like multiple problems. Since it works for one direction at the key switch, you know that at least one wire between switches, key switch power, tailgate safety switch, & motor are all working.
Possible causes:
  • A bad hot contact in the key switch & no power from the breaker to the dash switch.
  • A bad hot contact in the key switch & a bad hot wire to the dash switch.
  • A bad hot contact in the key switch & bad hot contacts in the dash switch.
  • A bad ground up contact in the dash switch & a bad hot down contact in the key switch.
  • One bad wire between switches & a bad hot contact in the key switch.
  • A combination of the above problems.
___________________________________
D.16
No --Dash switch up
No --Dash switch down
No --Key switch up
No --Key switch down
Nothing works. Might be easy. Might be the hardest to diagnose. If it isn't one of the easy steps, good testing with a meter will pay off on this one. This is what I started with, so the testing in "A" above is based on not having any operation at all to help pinpoint the problem.
Possible causes:
  • Tailgate safety switch out of adjustment or missing the bushing. Try pushing in on the driver's side of the tailgate while operating either switch.
  • Bad fuse/circuit breaker to both switches.
  • Bad tailgate safety switch.
  • Bad connector to the motor.
  • Broken wire(s) between switches. The loom between the body & tailgate is a likely place for wear to cause this.
  • Bad ground to the dash switch. This provides ground for all functions.
  • Bad ground/pass thru contacts on both sides of the key switch.
  • Bad ground contacts on both sides of the dash switch.
  • Bad motor.
  • Bad hot contacts on both sides of both switches.
  • A combination of multiple problems.



On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors . Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections, & eliminating the corroded plug to the motor.
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2010, 10:15 AM   #4
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
4- How do I post pics?

Go to the How to POST PICS sticky. Pepe` gives 2 sets of instructions, one for fullsize membership ($20 a year), another for regular members (Free). Follow the instructions for your type of membership.

If you are a regular member, follow the Supermotors method. It's the second set of instructions. The first set of instructions won't work for you. You have to load the pics on a hosting site like Supermotors or Photobucket, then hotlink them here.

Supermotors is the method that I still use. You can set up different folders for each vehicle. They can be categorized & reorganized as needed. It allows the photos to be easily resized, & you have the choice of 3 sizes to hotlink. Once loaded to the hosting site, your friends & family across the country can see them there. You can hotlink the same photos to multiple websites as well.

You will copy the location of the pic from the hosting site. It is in the "URL" box to the left of the pic. Or you can right click on the pic itself & click on "Copy Image Location" or "Copy Image Url" (Right clicking on the pic itself will also get you to the URL of pics from many sources). Then back here in FSB, from the "Reply to Thread" window, click the Insert Image icon & paste your pic's location in the popup window. That will add the necessary code for you without any further work. This method also works with those pics found online from other sources.

Another option is to copy the "IMG" code to the left of the pic in Supermotors & paste it directly into the "Reply to Thread" window.

This is how the code for the pic below looks in the "Reply to Thread" window, except the {} are actually []:

{IMG}http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/498470/fullsize/100_85812.jpg%20alt={/IMG}


With the correct brackets, that ^ code looks like this in the thread:
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2010, 10:16 AM   #5
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
5- How do I add a little picture under my name at the left of the screen?
6- How do I change the stuff under my name at the left of the screen?
7- How do I add a signature under my posts?
8- Why doesn't my signature always show up?

Go to the User CP. It's near the top of every page, towards the left. Once opened you'll see many choices down the left side.

5- In the "Settings & Options" section, click on "Edit Avatar". Enter the URL or upload one from your computer. Pay attention to the sizing requirements.

6- In the "Your Profile" section, click on "Edit Your Details". There you can enter your Bronco Info & approximate location so it will show up under your name with every post. That stuff helps the rest of us understand what you're working on. Sometimes the approximate location helps understand the causes of problems with your truck. The answers to some issues will vary for the salt belt, hot or cold climates, etc.. It's also good to know who's nearby. Don't post up your entire address (Someone actually did that ). If you are a Fullsize Member you can also add a Custom User Title directly under your name, where mine says "Driving Stuff Henry Built".

7- In the "Your Profile" section, click on "Edit Signature". Enter your text or pics like you would in a normal post. Pay attention to the image size regulations & leave out political items. Mods will delete sigs if they get out of hand.

8- Signatures only show up under your first post on each page. They also don't show up on any posts that were written before you added a sig. When you change your current sig, it displays the new sig under any old posts that had one originally.
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2010, 10:04 PM   #6
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
9- How do I Bleed My Brakes?


It's important with brakes to be sure that everything is done right. Safety is vital. Follow the instructions in the manual. If you are not sure about it, work with someone who has good experience with it, or tow it to a qualified shop. Don't drive it until you are sure that it's fixed right.

Quote:
2 Man Brake Bleed

1-Usual safety stuff (Block the wheels, trans in correct gear, on safe axle stands if jacked up, etc.). -Broncos are high enough you should be able to do this without jacking it up.
2-Check the level of the brake fluid, add if needed. Recheck periodically & add as needed throughout the bleeding process. Do not allow it to run out. If it runs out, you must start over.
3-Have your helper pump the brake pedal a few times & then hold it down. Do not let the pedal up while the bleeder is open.
4-Open the bleeder valve, observe the fluid flowing from the bleeder. Fluid & air bubbles can spray, it's best to run a clear hose from the bleeder into a container. Some would say wear safety goggles. Keep your mouth closed .
5-Close the bleeder valve while the pedal is still depressed.
6-Have the helper pump the brake pedal, observe height of pedal.
7-Repeat steps 2-6 until no bubbles are seen in the fluid from the bleeder valve, then move to the next wheel, following this order: RR, LR, RF, LF (On newer trucks with the RABS valve, it's RR, LR, RABS valve, RF, LF. On trucks that are newer still with 4 wheel ABS, I don't know). Be sure that each bleeder is closed before moving on. If the brakes are otherwise in good condition, adjusted, & not leaking, the pedal should be firm when done.
8-Check the level of the brake fluid, add if needed. Recheck again soon to be sure fluid isn't leaking.
78 to 81ish info from this thread: Where to buy a Brake Pressure Differential Valve?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cweagle View Post
OK, it's all back together. The switch still seems to not work, but I freed up the valve (apparantly - I had to make a little thing to hold the pin in the front OUT while bleeding the front brakes, otherwise the valve seemed to shut them off >90% of the way and I could not effectively bleed them). I took it out, sealed the ports VERY well, beadblasted it, and then cleaned the threads and seats with paper towels and brake cleaner.

So even though the Haynes book says that you only have to do that if you are using a 'pressure bleeder', that's not true, at least on my '81!
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2010, 11:13 PM   #7
BigUgly88EB
Redneck Romeo
 
BigUgly88EB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chickasha, OK
Posts: 1,803
iTrader: (6)
Bronco Info: SOLD.
admin edit: this pointless post needs to stay... as a place holder to maintain all the previous inner/page links.
please do not remove.
__________________
The last REAL SUV was built in 1996!


Chase

4" Rough Country, 130A 3G, RJM Battery Cables, Sixlitre Tune-Up, more to come!

Don't forget to vote for FSB!

Last edited by BikerPepe`; 07-19-2013 at 03:07 PM.
BigUgly88EB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2010, 12:18 AM   #8
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
10- My Rear ABS light comes on (87-92). Why?
11- My Rear brakes drag (87-92). Why?

Always be careful when it comes to brakes. If you're not sure it's right, don't drive it. If it's over your skill level, take it to a qualified shop for the repairs.

Here's a good resource thread with more info from Miesk5 & jermil01: Brake and Rear ABS lights on

87-92 Broncos have Rear Wheel Antilock Brakes (RABS). Sometimes it can cause the rear brakes to drag, & is one of the things to check if they do. There's a self test procedure for the system described below, followed by testing procedures & flashout codes. If both the Red & Yellow lights are lit, start with section "C" below before following the info obtained from the codes.

Quote:
Pulling RABS Flashout Code. This routine should be good from 87-92.

Quote:
The 90 service manual gives a routine to pull RABS codes. When the light comes on, don't turn the truck off before reading the codes. Put it in park, chock both front & rear of the wheels, note whether the red brake light is lit also, then momentarily ground the test connector.

On my 90, the test connector comes out of a large loom under the dash, coming through the firewall, near the parking brake. On mine there are 2 similar connectors in that area, the correct one has only 1 black wire with an orange tracer running to it, & was hidden on top of the loom. The correct one is hanging down on the bottom right of the 90 pic below. 92 has the test plug on the passenger side. See jermil01's 92 pics below.

After you've grounded & ungrounded the wire, the yellow abs light starts to flash. Count the flashes. It said to not count the 1st series, because it may start in the middle. The last flash of the series is a long flash. Then it repeats over & over, until you turn the key off.

Count all of the short flashes & the long one together (So 4 short & 1 long is code #5). If I remember right, it should be a number between 2 & 15 or so. In Steve83's Brakes & Hubs album, he has the code definitions & other info for RABS-II near the bottom.

There are also more testing instructions in the manual that I can look up after you know what the code is, & whether the red brake light is on or off.
90 Test Connector
Quote:
92 Test Connector
Quote:
Originally Posted by jermil01 View Post
90 Module
Quote:
Under the dash near the center, on the driver's side. Sort of above the gas pedal & to the right. Gold box with white arrow in this pic. Ignore the Red White & Blue wires, they are for an aftermarket brake controller.
92 Module
Quote:
Originally Posted by jermil01 View Post
And the RABS module behind the glove box

Quote:
C Testing Procedure from the 1990 Ford Truck Shop Manual. Use this section when both Yellow & Red lights are on.
Quote:
Test C
Yellow ANTILOCK light On and
Red BRAKE Light On

Quote:
C1 -Low brake fluid

Brake fluid level ok = Go to test C2
Brake fluid level low = Check for fluid leaks & repair. Fill system
Quote:
C2 -Master cylinder float -Check float for buoyancy
1- Remove cap from master cylinder.
2-Using a clean steel implement, push down on float in reservoir.

Float moves down = Go to test C3
Float does not move down (Sits at the bottom of the reservoir) = Replace master cylinder reservoir.
Quote:
C3 -Diode/resistor element -Check for proper functioning of the diode/resistor element.
1- Turn ignition key to the on position.
2- Check parking brake & release if applied.

Both ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps go off = Replace RABS diode/resistor element.
Both ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps stay on = Go to test C4.
Quote:
C4 -Diode resistor element continued -Continue to check for proper functioning of the diode/resistor element.
1- Remove the parking brake switch & the diesel low vacuum switch, if so equipped.
Both ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps go off = Replace RABS diode/resistor element.
Both ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps stay on = Go to test C5
Quote:
C5 -Antilock valve switch
-Obtain the flashout code as described in Diagnosis & Testing in this section.
(See the section above for pulling RABS codes)

Flashout code is obtained = Refer to Flashout Codes Charts
ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps stay on steady = Go to test C6
Quote:
C6 -Master cylinder switch
-Check for the proper functioning of the master cylinder level indicator switch.

1- Remove the connector from the master cylinder.
2- Connect a jumper wire between the 2 purple/white wires in the connector.
3- Turn the ignition key to the on position.

ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps stay on = Go to test C7
ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps go off = Replace the master cylinder reservoir.
Quote:
C7 -Brake Light Wiring
-Check for shorts in brake light wiring.
1- Disconnect module harness connector from module
2- Turn ignition key to the on position.

Antilock light goes off & Brake light stays on = Check for short to ground in the 977 circuit. Refer to wiring diagram in this section.
Both ANTILOCK & BRAKE warning lamps go off = Replace module.



Quote:
D Testing Procedure from the 1990 Ford Truck Shop Manual. Use this section when Yellow ANTILOCK light is on & Red BRAKE light is off.
Quote:
Test D
Yellow ANTILOCK light On and
Red BRAKE Light Off

Quote:
D1 -Obtain the Flashout Code as described in Diagnosis & Testing in this section.
(See the section above for pulling RABS codes)
Flashout code cannot be obtained = Go to test D2.
Flashout Code is obtained = Refer to the Flashout Code charts.
Quote:
D2 -Master Cylinder Connector
Make sure master cylinder connector is fully plugged in.
Master cylinder connector is not fully plugged in = Plug in the master cylinder connector.
Master cylinder connector is plugged in = Go to test D3.
Quote:
D3 -RABS 20 Amp Fuse
-Remove & inspect the RABS 20 amp fuse.

Fuse is OK = Replace fuse. Go to test D4.
Fuse is blown = Short to ground between the fuse & the module wiring harness. Repair short in the 601 circuit & replace the 20 amp fuse. Refer to the wiring diagrams in this section.
Quote:
D4 -Shorts in Module Harness Connector Wiring
-Check for wiring short to ground.
1- Turn ignition switch to the "on" position.
2- Remove the module harness connector from the module.
3- Observe the REAR ANTILOCK light.

Light goes off = Go to test D5.
Light remains on = Check for a short in the 603 circuit. Refer to the wiring diagram in this section.
Quote:
D5 -Power to the module
-Check for an open in the circuit supplying power to the module.
1- Set the voltmeter on the 20 VDC scale.
2- Turn ignition switch to the "on" position.
3- Measure the voltage between pin 1 (or pin 9) and chassis ground.



Voltage less than 9v = Repair the open in the 601 circuit or power to the fuse panel. See Wiring Diagram.
Voltage greater than 9v = Go to test D6.
Quote:
D6 -Voltage at the Fluid Level Circuit
-Check the voltage from the fluid level circuit.
1- Set the voltmeter on the 20 VDC scale.
2- Turn ignition switch to the "on" position.
3- Measure the voltage between pin 2 and chassis ground.



Voltage less than 8v = Go to test D7.
Voltage greater than 8v = Go to test D8.
Quote:
D7 -Fluid Lever Sensor and Wiring
-Check the voltage at the fluid level circuit.
1- Set the voltmeter on the 20 VDC scale.
2- Turn ignition switch to the "on" position.
3- Measure the voltage at each of the purple/white wires at the back of the master cylinder fluid level switch connector without disconnecting the connector.

Voltage greater than 8v at both wires = Check for open in 977 circuit.
Voltage less than 8v at both wires = Replace diode resistor element or open in 640 circuit.
Voltage greater than 8v at one wire and less than 8v at the other wire = Change the master cylinder reservoir. Refer to section 12-30, Brake Pedal, Master Cylinder and Valves for procedure.
Quote:
D8 -Grounded Diagnostic Lead
-Check the voltage at the diagnostic lead (See the 90 or 92 "Test Connector" pic above).
1- Reconnect the module harness connector.
2- Set the voltmeter on the 20 VDC scale.
3- Turn ignition switch to the "on" position.
4- Measure the voltage between the diagnostic lead and chassis ground.

Voltage is less than 1v = Check for a short in the 571 diagnostic circuit. If no short is found, go to test D9.
Voltage is greater than 1v = Go to test D9.
Quote:
D9 -Computer Module
-Replace computer module and retest.



Quote:
Quote:
Flashout Code 4
Yellow REAR ANTILOCK Light Flashes 4 Times
Red Brake Warning Light Illuminated
RABS Valve Switch Closed
Quote:
4a -Check for closed RABS valve switch
1-Disconnect RABS valve harness connector from valve connector.
2- Place ohmmeter on the 20k ohms scale.
3-Check resistance between valve connector switch pin & valve body.

Valve connector -Pin View

. . . . . . . . . . . .. .... . ._____
. . . . . . . . . . . .... .. ./>. O.>.\
Valve switch pin ---l-O >..O>l
. . . . . . . .... . . . . . .l . ...O... .l
. . . . . . . .__l__. .. .l_______l
. . . . . . . .. . . .____
. . . . . . . . . . . . ._

Resistance is greater than 10k ohms = Go to test 4b.
Resistance is less than 10k ohms = Replace RABS valve

Quote:
4b Check for short between RABS ground switch & valve ground lead
1- Set the ohmmeter on 20k ohm scale.
2- Check resistance between the valve connector switch pin and valve solenoid ground pin.

Valve connector -Pin View

. . . . . . . . . . . .. ... . .______
. . . . . . . . . . . . ..... ./>. O.>.\
Valve switch pin ---l-O .>.O>l
. . . . . . ... . . . . . .. .l. ....O----l---- Valve solenoid ground pin
. . . . . . ... . . . . . .. .l_______l

Resistance is greater than 10k ohms = Go to test 4c.
Resistance is less than 10k ohms = Replace RABS valve

Quote:
4c Check for rabs valve switch wire shorted to ground or module
1- Disconnect battery.
2- Set the ohmmeter on the 200k ohm scale.
3- Disconnect the module harness from the module.
4- Check the resistance between harness connector pin 6 and chassis ground.

Module harness connector -Pin view

._______________________
l..............................................l
l...14 13 12 . . . . . . 11 10 9?..l
l....O . O .O . . .. . . . .O . O O...l
l .............................................l
l....O . O .O . O .O . O .O . O. ..l
l....8 . 7 . 6 . 5 . 4 . 3 . 2 . .1....l
\ .........................................../
..\____________________/


Resistance is greater than 100k ohms = Replace computer module.
Resistance is less than 100k ohms = Repair short in 535 circuit, valve switch wire from valve to computer module.
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2010, 08:33 PM   #9
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
12- Will 33 inch tires rub on my Bronco?

Wheel backspacing, the adjustment of the steering stops, & the model year all affect it. There are 4 different FSB body styles over the years:

92-96s rub more with 33s. Many trucks have to shim or cut the front bumper to clear. Depending on the wheel backspacing & the setting of the steering stops they may or may not rub the sway bar or radius arms.

87-91s rub less with 33s. Typically no front bumper issues. Depending on the wheel backspacing & the setting of the steering stops they may or may not rub the sway bar or radius arms. Mine rub the stock arms, but the stops are adjusted in. Mine also has the chrome trim over the wheelwells. One side will barely catch the chrome at full stuff. If the chrome wasn't there, I don't think it would touch.

80-86s

78-79s seem to have larger wheel openings & less rubbing issues. Other than that
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2010, 08:34 PM   #10
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
13- What do the axle gear ratio numbers mean? (3.55:1, 4.10:1, etc.)
14- Which gears are higher or lower?
15- What gear ratio do I have?
16- If I change the rear gears do I have to change the front too?
17- How do I choose the right gears?

13- It describes how much gear reduction there is in the axle. Gear ratios are normally separated by a colon like this 3.55:1. The 3.55 refers to the number of revolutions that the driveshaft turns, while the 1 refers to revolutions of the axle (Or tires). The driveshaft turns 3.55 times for 1 revolution of the tires. 4.56:1 gears would have the driveshaft turn 4.56 times for 1 revolution of the tires. So with 4.56:1 gears, the driveshaft turns more times for each rotation of the tires than with 3.55:1 gears. That gives the engine more leverage to turn the tires easier.

If you opened up the differential & counted the number of teeth on the gears you would find the ratio by comparing the number of teeth on the pinion gear (Attached to the driveshaft) to the ring gear (Attached to the axle). You divide the number of pinion teeth into the number of ring teeth. So if you divided 32 ring teeth by 9 pinion teeth you would have a 3.55:1 ratio. 41 ring teeth divided by 10 pinion teeth would be a 4.10:1 ratio, & so on.


14- The terms higher gears & lower gears have become confusing. You think of 1st gear in your transmission as being a lower gear than 3rd. Using the same principle, 4.56:1 gears are lower than 3.55:1. But numerically they're higher. 4.56 is a higher number than 3.55, even though 4.56 gears are lower. So we have to clarify how the gears are being described. Frequently you'll see the term "Lower gears (Higher numerically)" used to clarify the meaning.


15-
The easiest way to find gear ratios is to decode the door sticker. There's 2 charts quoted below to look up the codes. But it's only a good solution if the door sticker is still readable & no one has swapped the gears previously. One accurate approach is to open the diff & count the teeth as described above.

An easier way than opening the diff is to mark the driveshaft & a tire. Use the usual safety procedures (Flat solid ground, blocked wheels, solid axle stands, etc.) & raise the rear of the truck off the ground. Turn the tires 1 revolution by hand & count the driveshaft revolutions. About 3-1/2 turns of the driveshaft would be 3.50 or 3.55:1. A little over 4 driveshaft turns would be 4.10:1 & so on.

Another easier option with an open diff is to raise only 1 rear tire. Turn that tire 2 revolutions by hand & count the driveshaft revolutions. With the spider gears in the differential, 2 revolutions of 1 tire is the same as 1 revolution of 2 tires. So with 2 revolutions of 1 tire & about 3-1/2 turns of the driveshaft would be 3.50 or 3.55:1. A little over 4 driveshaft turns would be 4.10:1.


Note: 2 digit limited slip codes refer to the rear axle only, 3 digit limited slip axle codes refer to both front & rear axles.
So H9 is LS rear only, & H92 is LS front & rear.


From 85 & 90 manuals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MOUNTAINMAN View Post
From this thread in the 78-79 forum.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 91BRONC View Post
D7-DANA70 LIMITED SLIP -4.10
23-DANA61 -3.31
24-DANA60-4.10
H2-LIMITED SLIP-3.50
H4-LIMITED SLIP-3.25
H7-NOT LISTED ON MY CHART
H9-LIMITED SLIP-4.11

From the Bronco Graveyard catalog in the back of the book.

16- Yes, they need to match. If front & rear gears are different, front & rear tires try to travel a different distance for each revolution of the driveshaft. Something has to give. If tires don't slip, some point in the drivetrain will break.

There is a tiny percentage of difference that's acceptable. Stock gears on many later Broncos are 3.55:1 rear & 3.54:1 front, due to the different manufacturers of components. Combining 3.55:1 & 3.73:1 would be too much of a difference.


17- It'll vary according to your usage. If you drive a lot of highway you might want higher gears (Lower numerically ) than if your truck is primarily a wheeler.

A good place to start is by using what the truck had stock, or what you have now, as a baseline. It was designed to run well in many different situations with stock gears & tires. So if you increase tire size & regear so that you have the same RPM at the same speed as stock, you have a good starting point. Once you have that point, you can adjust to favor your type of driving. Lower gears (Higher numerically) for more power to the tires for hill climbing or towing. Higher gears (Lower numerically) for lower RPMs on the highway. Many of us would rather run lower gears with more power to the wheels, but it should to be tailored to your specific needs.

This Gear Ratio Calculator at grimmjeeper.com allows you to compare 2 setups at once. Enter your starting point on one side & compare it to different options on the other.

With my 90 as an example, I entered my e4od trans, the BW1356 transfer case, & 3.55 stock gears on both sides. On one side I showed the stock 29" tires & on the other the 33" tires that I have now. I hit calculate & it tells me that at 65mph originally it ran at 1898rpm & now it runs at 1668rpm. I can sure feel that difference on uphills. I downshift more now than when it had 29s on it, & I use 4low long before others when wheeling. I need lower gears (Higher numerically).

If I change to 4.10:1 gears, it shows that I would run at 1927rpm at 65mph. So that would be a little lower than stock gearing with 33s on the truck. That would be nice for my current usage, but since I'm considering 35s or 37s in the future, I compared some combos with both 35s & 37s. Here's some outcomes:
3.55:1 & 29s = 1898rpm at 65mph, stock.
3.55:1 & 33s = 1688rpm at 65mph, higher gearing than stock. Current combo.
4.10:1 & 33s = 1927rpm at 65mph, slightly lower gearing but close to stock.
4.10:1 & 35s = 1816rpm at 65mph, higher gearing than stock.
4.56:1 & 35s = 2020rpm at 65mph, lower gearing than stock.
4.56:1 & 37s = 1911rpm at 65mph, slightly lower gearing but close to stock.

So for my use, 4.56 is probably where I'll go, since it looks like it would work with either 35s or 37s. If I wanted more power to the wheels for hill climbing, I might go even lower (Higher numerically).

Another thing to consider is that if you increase the tire size, you give the tires more leverage. By lowering the gears, you give the engine & driveshaft more leverage to turn those big tires. By giving both the tires & engine/driveshaft more leverage, the parts in between are more likely to break. After a certain point those components in between will need to be improved to survive.
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2010, 11:30 PM   #11
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
18- Where can I find info about my Holley carburetor?
19- Why does my engine stumble when I step on the gas?

18- Here's a site with a lot of Holley info: The Carburetor Doctor. I think it's the number on the air horn that you need to look up. If you click on the kit links at the right of the page it'll take to a listing of several carbs that use that kit. Or you might try calling The Carburetor Doctor at 780-968-6622 with those numbers on the air horn to see if they can give you specifics.

OLDCARMANUAL.com has a lot of Holley diagrams as well.

19- That symptom sounds like it could be a bad accelerator pump. It squirts a little extra fuel as you step on the gas to keep it from stumbling until the carb responds to the changes in vacuum. With the key off, look down the carb & steadily open the throttle. You should see a steady stream of fuel while the throttle is moving. If it sputters there's something wrong with the accelerator pump or it's passageways. On a Holley it's pretty easy to change. It's the gasket & so on above part #107 in this pic:

(Click this link for the actual page & click the pics on that page for supersized pics)
http://oldcarmanualproject.com/manua...0G_4150MG.html

__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2010, 11:39 PM   #12
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
20- Why won't my tailgate open even if the window is rolled all the way down?

There's sort of a hook in the mechanism that is pushed down by the window when it gets to the bottom. It releases the center mechanism to allow it to pull the side rods to release the latches. I wonder if it might be bent or partially hung up keeping the one side from moving freely.

Here's pics of that hook:
It's the long rod with the hook at the bottom of this Steve83 link. It may be bent or undone.

(Click the images for larger pics)

It's marked "Interlock Rod", heading left (Actually down) in this Steve83 link.



Another possibility is that something is bent or worn & not allowing one or both sides to move all the way. My tailgate hadn't been opened in years when I bought it. It took lots of soaking with spray lube. Both inside the tailgate & thru the outside gap to the outside of the latch. Then, from inside the tailgate, I grabbed the stuck side rod with vise grips & worked it until it freed up. When all was said & done the right side rod was too long, & I bent a "Z" in it to shorten it a little. It's been good now for 3-1/2 years.
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2010, 03:16 AM   #13
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
21- I'm going to visit the Los Angeles area. What is there to do?

-Check out FSB's West Coast Chapter. We might have something going on while you're in town. Post up & let us know you're coming.

-Eat at In-N-Out while you're here. It's just a drive thru burger joint, but it's part of being in SoCal. If the menu seems too short, ask for a 4x4 if you're hungry, the Flying Dutchman for an odd surprise, or Fries Animal Style just because. Whatever you do, don't leave the empty box in your car.

-Catalina Island -Sort of touristy, but,then again, you are a tourist. The boat (1 hour) or the helicopter (15 minutes) leave from Long Beach. Everything is pretty much within walking distance, with the exception of the helicopter pad (I've walked it, but it's a good walk). If you take the helicopter, there are taxis available to get into town. At the North end just barely outside of town there's Descanso Beach which is cool for kicking back (There's an open air bar on the beach) or kayaking. Back to middle & South side of town there's parasailing, glass bottom boats, flying fish boats after dark, snorkeling, restaurants overlooking the ocean, golf cart rentals (The primary form of transportation in Avalon), & Big Olaf's ice cream . Check to be sure whatever your interested in is running currently (More stuff is usually open in the warmer months). Live camera feed. (We used to provide support for a swing dance camp there every year, & got to goof off after it was over. It was a lot of fun.)

-Queen Mary -In Long Beach, you can tour the ship, & they have a Russian sub there too. If you're not really into these sort of things, it's a little dull.

-Petersen Automotive Museum -I've haven't been yet, but friends say it's good.

-Speedzone -Timed driving of small race cars on a dragstrip or road course. Mini Indy cars & mini 70mph dragsters.

-Irwindale Speedway -1/2 Mile Oval on Saturday nights ($15 General, $25 reserved) & the 1/8 Mile Dragstrip on Thursday nights ($10 to watch, $20 to run. I suppose the rental car company wouldn't approve).

-Medievil Times -Dinner & show with knights jousting.

-Planes of Fame Air Museum in Chino -Sort of far, but I enjoyed it. Eat at Flo's if you go.

-Sea World -Down in San Diego. Big fish type critters.

-Skiing or snowboarding in Wrightwood or Big Bear during the Winter.

-Huntington Beach -Beach, pier & small town. Usually something going on. Looks like they're doing Surf City Nights on Tuesdays. Wahoo's fish tacos.

-Santa Monica. Pier & beach. Usually some surfers in the water. Live pier camera

-Warner Brothers Studios tour. $48 for a 2-1/2 hour tour in 2010. The tour varies day to day depending on what's being filmed.

-Universal Citywalk is interesting (If you want to see lots of people) & free if you don't buy anything, except for the $10 to park. [Grandpa McCoy voice] That's where them youngfolk go & just hang around. [/voice]

-Pasadena's Rose Parade. December 31/Jan 1 (Unless the 1st is on Sunday, then it's Jan 2). Camp overnight on the curb & watch a parade with a million of your closest friends. Or buy grandstand seating & be above the crowd.

-NHRA Drag Racing at Pomona -February & November. There's nothing like the sound of a wide open top fuel dragster. We could hear them from our house when we lived about 8 miles away.

-Nascar racing at the Auto Club Speedway in Fontana. February & October.

-Fabulous Fords Forever. In April. All Ford car show at Knott's Berry Farm. Some of our local FSBs are usually in the show. Well worth going if you're here at the right time.

-LA County Fair -In Pomona. If you like fairs, this is the bigun. September 4 - October 3, 2010. NHRA drag racing museum, old trains, live concerts, a bunch of exhibit buildings, animals, rides, Mexican village, garden stuff, fine arts, barkpark (With dog stunt shows), blacksmiths, & on & on.

The usual theme parks
-Knotts Berry Farm -Personal preference. Has the ghost town & old west stuff as well as rides. Ghost rider .
-Disneyland/California Adventure -It's Disneyland, what more can you say?
-Six Flags Magic Mountain -I haven't been on X2 yet, but X1 was something else. X2 is supposed to be more so. Lots of other good rides too.
-Universal Studios. -Movie making stuff & rides. Haven't been in years. That's where Citywalk is located.

And there's ThingsToDo.com for LA, Orange County, San Diego , or the Inland Empire all close enough to drive to, depending on your time.
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2010, 03:05 PM   #14
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
22- My Bronco doesn't have an exterior tire carrier. Can I add one?

Yes, but...
Broncos that came with a stock external tire carrier have additional supports behind the sheet metal that trucks with internal carriers don't have. If you don't add interior support, the carrier will rip the sheet metal. Some have had trouble with large spares damaging the tailgate even with the stock supports. The strongest solution seems to be a rear bumper with a tire carrier built on it. Several of us have added the stock type spare carrier, with various results. If you add a stock external carrier, you'll need to add support inside both the tailgate & the fender.

I added an external carrier to my 90. It has been ok so far. I carry a 33" BFG m/t on an aluminum rim, so it is not as heavy as some spares. I wheel it, but I'm not crazy with it. No jumping. I can see some flex in the quarter panel when the spare is all the way open. I am always careful when it's opened. It seems solid & tight when it's closed. It is somewhat misaligned in that the rubber block at the bottom hits before the latch. I think it keeps it tighter & may prevent damage. I also kept the interior spare carrier. It's pretty much out of the way with no spare it, gives me something to lash to, & makes it easy to carry 2 spares on the trail (Some guy named Tom told me early on I should always have 2 spares ).

For the tailgate, you probably want to use the stock support for inside the tailgate. It's just way too easy to install the stock brace to even consider making one. It has to tie into the structure inside of the tailgate to distribute the load. It can be unbolted from one truck & bolted into the next. If you add a carrier to a Bronco that never had one, use that support.

Here's a pic of the tailgate support (Pic borrowed from Dustball, the last I heard he's still selling this part). The top is at the left. You can see the 3 holes for the latch. The other holes mount to the structure inside of the tailgate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustball View Post

There is also a support inside the fender, but it can't be removed from a good truck without a lot of work/damage. It's better to get that part from a truck that's being parted out, or to make a new one. If you use the stock fender support, you may have to cut it to fit it into place.

My internal fender supports are made from 3/16 plate, bent to fit. They are each bent twice with 2 flats that contact the fender at the bolt holes, & a center portion that doesn't contact around the curve. The edges are ground round, to try to keep from them punching through. They don't connect to each other or to the existing internal bracing like the stock brace does, but it would be stronger if they did. I may still modify them to do so.

It's easier to make the supports to fit the shape & hole pattern of the carrier hinge brackets. The hinges are the same shape as the fender, & it's much simpler to work with the hinges on the bench than trying to bend the steel to match the truck.

Here is a sideways view of the stock support inside the rear fender from Mickaila's Bronco build.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickaila View Post
Here is an overall view, again, ITS UP SIDE DOWN, as you can see the top portion of the panel (where the soft top sits) on the ground presently:
And a shot through the taillight opening of one of my homebuilt braces (It's getting rusty in there, it should have been painted. Even inside of the quarter panel in California ). You can see how it isn't formed to the fender at the curve, but takes a straight line across.


Be aware that the design of the latch changed (I think the break is between 89 & 90, but I'm not sure). The older ones have a long release lever & sort of a hook strike, while the newer ones have a short release handle & a latch mechanism similar to the doors. Make sure that the strike you buy matches your carrier.

My experience is with a 90. I have heard that the hinge brackets are a different shape to match the rear fenders of 78-79s, 80-86s, & 87-96s, so be sure to use the matching hinge brackets for your fenders. I have also heard that the carriers themselves will swap between 78-79s, 80-86s & 87-96s if you use the correct hinge brackets, but don't know that personally.

They also went from 2 holes mounting the latch to 3 at some point. The 2 & 3 hole parts may work with each other, but you might have to drill a 3rd hole & add a nut behind. My internal tailgate brace had only 2 holes. They matched 2 of the strike holes, & I drilled the 3rd.

Here's an earlier strike (89 & before?):




Somewhere there's a pic of the later strike (90 & later?) When I find it I'll add it.
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2010, 01:56 AM   #15
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
23 -My Bronco won't turn over (Won't crank, start, make the Rrrr Rrrr Rrrr sound), but makes a screeching, grinding, clicking, or buzzing noise when I try to start it. Why? (This section deals with the engine not turning over at all. When the starter won't turn the engine, not when the engine will turn but not start)

WARNING. Be careful throughout this process. Sometimes problems can be intermittent, & things will start moving unexpectedly. Some of this testing should cause the engine to turn over & possibly start. Be sure the vehicle can't get away or run over you. Keep it in the correct gear, set the brake, block the wheels, keep your hands & wires out of the fan. Disconnect the coil wire to keep the engine from starting at any point (Remember to reconnect once this has been repaired). If you aren't sure, get help or take it to a qualified mechanic.

Is it a grinding/screeching sound or a buzzing/clicking sound? A grinding sound (Almost screeching) is usually from where the starter engages the flywheel. See drawing "A" below. It can be caused by a loose starter, a starter that's going bad or a bad flywheel. More often than not it's just loose. Check the mounting bolts.

A buzzing sound, almost like a rapid clicking is usually made by the solenoid on the fender. It's the heavy duty switch that actually turns on the starter. See the pics "B" & "C" below. The key switch turns on the solenoid which turns on the starter. When it is making that noise, there's enough voltage to turn on the solenoid until power reaches the starter, then voltage drops which causes the solenoid to disengage, disconnecting the starter, which raises the voltage enough to turn on the solenoid again & so on & so on. It's the song that never ends. It happens so fast that it sounds like buzzing.

A single click? The solenoid turns on & stays on, but the starter doesn't/can't turn the engine. See the list below.

It can click or buzz from several causes:
  • A weak battery. Not enough juice to crank it once the solenoid closes. Click/Buzz. Measure the voltage at the battery. It should be around 12v. If not charge it & try again. Another possibility is a battery that shows a charge, but won't keep the voltage up under load. A lot of auto parts stores will test them for free with a tester that checks under load.
  • Bad cables. Look for swollen places in the insulation, white or green dust/corrosion, worn or burnt places, stiff sections, etc. See pic "E" below. Check all 3 cables (Battery to solenoid, battery to block & frame, solenoid to starter) If you replace them, try to get a larger diameter cable. Stock is typically 4 gauge, changing to a 2 or 0 gauge will pay off in the long run. The stock ground cable connects to both frame & block & it is hard to find a replacement. A good solution is to run a cable from battery to block & then another cable from the same bolt on the block to frame.
  • Loose cables. Negative from the battery where it attaches to the engine is a common location, but check them all.
  • Dirty cable connections. Don't just clean the outside, clean where the cable contacts the post & where the other end connects too. Especially the ground at the block.
  • Cheap clamp on ends. See pics "D" & "E" below. Only good for a trail fix to get you to the store to buy a real cable.
  • A bad solenoid (Yeah, I said solenoid. Call it a starter relay if you want. I'm old. We've always called it a solenoid, so there. Solenoid, solenoid solenoid). If you jump across the 2 large solenoid terminals (See the warning above) with a screwdriver or large jumper, it bypasses the solenoid. If it cranks when bypassed, & the solenoid only clicks from the ignition switch, it sounds like a bad solenoid.
  • A loose starter that hangs up against the flywheel when it tries to crank. It jams, overloads & drops the voltage.
  • A bad starter. Many auto parts stores will test them.
  • A frozen engine. Serious breakage inside, hydrolocked, rusted solid, badly broken parts keeping the engine from rotating, etc. With the key off & the coil wire disconnected, trans in park or neutral, try turning the engine over with a breaker bar on the crank bolt.

If you've had both grinding & buzzing, check the starter mounting bolts, since loose bolts can cause both.


A -Starter Engagement


B -90 Solenoid (3 post)


C -69 Solenoid (4 post)


D -Cheesy clamp on end. Do not use for a long term repair. Only to get you home when nothing else is available. If you have one of these, suspect it before anything else.


E -Corroded cable with insulation cut away & cheesy clamp on end. From 67 GTO
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67 GTO View Post
Thought I'd add an image for this. Cable was extremely stiff, but not 6" further down. Figure that's an easy way to find 'hidden' corrosion. And, yeah, those universal terminals are complete junk. Guess I'm just a sucker for punishment.

__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2010, 03:27 AM   #16
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
24 -My Bronco won't turn over (Won't crank, start, make the Rrrr Rrrr Rrrr sound), & makes no other sounds under the hood. Why?

Under Construction
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2010, 09:04 PM   #17
theramsey3
#1 Asshole
 
theramsey3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: starke fl
Posts: 1,452
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 90 5.0 H.O. E4OD BW1356 3.54 3L55 32/11.50R15 Black not the one in the pic ^^^
25 -My bronco won't start. It cranks over but has no spark, why?

Ok so your bronco wont start. It cranks over but has no spark. There are a few possibilities for why lets take a look at them.




A) You have a bad ignition coil, no power or signal at the coil. How do I test for this?

To test the coil get out the DMM= Digital Mutli Meter. Test the primary circuit for resistance. It should be .3-1 ohms. Test the secondary circuit from the coil negative to the plug wire output. Resistance should be 8,000 to 11,500 ohms. If coil is out of this range replace it.



Test for power at the coil with the key in the run position. Test ignition module output with a test light put the test light between the two wires at the coil harness if it flashes TFI module and PIP are functioning.

Coil primary circuit wiring(see the below picture for TFI module pin out)

to test the coil primary circuit wiring you should have already tested for 12v+ from coil+ to ground with key in run position now you need to test from TFI pin 2 to coil negative with harnesses disconnected resistance should be less than 5 ohms

next test from coil negative with only the coil harness disconnected to ground should be more than 10,000 ohms.




B) You have a bad TFI= Thick Film Ignition module. Can I test that?

If you have a distributor mounted TFI you can test it yourself; However I highly recommend you have it tested at the parts store of your choice several times to get it hot during testing. Most TFI problems are intermittent and only occur when the module is hot, Not all but most, so you need to create the environment in which it is failing to test it.

test power supply to the TFI module by using the chart below.

If you have a remote mounted TFI module you have to take it in to test it.








C) My TFI module is good what else can cause this? Your PIP in the distributor might be bad. well how do I test for that?

PIP = Profile Ignition Pick up

PIP test distributor mounted TFI only

Test for AC voltage from pin 6 of the TFI module with harness connected to negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be 3-8.5 volts

PIP test remote mount TFI only

disconnect the distributor harness and test for 12v+ at pin 8 with the key in the run position now disconnect the S terminal at the starter solenoid/relay to disable the starter and turn key to start position test for voltage again. Hook the S terminal back up to the starter solenoid/relay test for AC voltage from pin 1 of the distributor to the negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be between 3-8.5

measure from module pin 6 to distributor pin 1 resistance should be less than 5 ohms and finally measure from pin 6 of the remote TFI module to ground you should get more than 10,000 ohms.

remote mount module distributor harness


Feel free to PM me to critique me or to add anything.

For the original post see post#19 here> http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=180544
For a few more Ideas and discussions on this subject look here> http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/sear...archid=3800791
__________________

Gotta get going again soon. my supermotors for before and after.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ford_munky_man View Post
I was always taught u got to lube it up before you stick it in. My friends said the teacher yesterday said that too.
theramsey3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2010, 10:27 PM   #18
Ziggy
Fullsize Member
 
Ziggy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Riverside, Ca
Posts: 1,691
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 79 Bronco
Damn El Kabong, you must be really bored this weekend but a damn good job on all the info. You need to add this to your list:
Post 17
25-What transfer case do I have?
__________________
3G Alt. Upgrade, Duel Batteries, 351M bored .030 over with Edlebrock cam and intake, C-6 w/AO4D internals, 3" lift w/RS 9000, 33x12.50 MTR's, Saginaw PS Pump Conversion, On Board Air, Detroit Locker, Hydro Boost Brake System, Altimeter from a CH-46D, Map Light from a MH-53E.

U. S. Government - Wasting paper and keeping Lumber Jacks gainfully employed since 1776.
Ziggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2010, 10:58 PM   #19
theramsey3
#1 Asshole
 
theramsey3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: starke fl
Posts: 1,452
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 90 5.0 H.O. E4OD BW1356 3.54 3L55 32/11.50R15 Black not the one in the pic ^^^
I beat you to it there ziggy yours should be
post 18
26-what transfer case do I have?
__________________

Gotta get going again soon. my supermotors for before and after.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ford_munky_man View Post
I was always taught u got to lube it up before you stick it in. My friends said the teacher yesterday said that too.
theramsey3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2010, 12:25 AM   #20
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,258
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
Haha. Shoot Ziggy, I haven't done anything this weekend. That's theramsey3's work.

If you have the answer to your T-case question, post it up here & I'll add it to the contents in post 1 like Ramsey's. Just use the same Q & A format. If you have more info on something that's already there, just use the same number. If we all kick in what we know, we should be able to cover a lot of ground.

p.s. -Nice work Ramsey.
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  FSB Forums > Bronco Discussions > Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone!


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:19 AM.


© 2003-2009 FullSizeBronco.com. All rights reserved