3 Bolt Auto to manual Locking hub swap - FSB Forums
Register Home Forums Active Topics Photo Gallery All Albums Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance FSB Store
FullsizeBronco.com is the premier Ford Bronco Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-25-2010, 02:11 AM   #1
broncoundertow
Registered User
 
broncoundertow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 72
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1996 eddie baure 5.8
3 Bolt Auto to manual Locking hub swap

After searching for some time I didn't come across a thread dealing specifically with the three bolt factory auto lock hubs. so since i was doing the swap thought i might try my hand at my first tech right up. Hope it is helpful to some.


Let me start by stating that the procedures in this thread are a compilation of my own and others from this forum. In no way am I responsible or anyone else, if you install improperly and break your stuff.

Tools Needed:
[IMG][/IMG]

1. Warn Premium Hubs
2. warn auto-manual install kit
3. T25 Torx bit
4. Lug wrench (I use a 1/2" breaker bar and socket)
5. 90 degree pick
6. 4wd wheel bearing locknut removal socket (performance tool w1269)
7. small bungees
8. 11mm socket and driver
9. ford bearing grease
10. Flathead screwdriver( not pictured)
11. snap ring pliers (not pictured)
12. small pry bar (I used factory tire iron)
13. Large C clamp

Fist things first get your bronco secured on jack stands and the front wheels off. once thats taken care of we can get started. begin by removing the 3 torx bit screws out of the hub cover and removing the cover


next remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the spindle.


You'll need to secure the caliper out of the way. I used bungees and the radius arm.
[IMG][/IMG]

if the caliper gives you trouble coming off use a flathead to gently pry between the pad and rotor. This compresses the caliper a bit. you wont need to compress it far to free it.

[IMG][/IMG]

You will need to locate the the outer hub assembly retaining ring and pop it out of place. This can take a min. I used a 90 degree pick. sliding it under one of the edges and then working it around till the ring popped out.
[IMG][/IMG]

Next slide the outer hub out (the torx screws make great handles for this.) exposing the inner part of the hub assembly. you'll have to remove another retaining ring, and a washer. now the inner part of the hub assembly should slide right out.


Theres one more retaining ring behind that and it secures the top hat lock nut in place. remove that. i used the the same locknut tool to remove the stock locknut. it worked though its not the proper one for this type locknut.
once you remove that now is a good time to check and repack your bearings. if you use the locknut tool as a punch and lightly tap the inner bearing out the back, you can reuse the seal. heres a pic of what i mean
[IMG][/IMG]

Heres everything removed
[IMG][/IMG]

I found that when reinstalling the hub and bearings it helps to hold the rotor in place with a large c-clamp with only light pressure.
[IMG][/IMG]

Now we can begin the reinstall

Start with the locknut that has the pin on it. screw that on the spindle, pin facing out. youll want to torque it down to 50ft lbs while rotating the rotor back and forth to seat the bearings. once tight, back it off a 1/4 turn
[IMG][/IMG]

Next will be the lock washer. it is keyed to match the grove in the spindle. it is important to line it up properly on the pin. flip it over if it doesnt match up. this will change the offset allowing it to line up
[IMG][/IMG]

now the third locknut will go in place. torque it down to 150 ft lbs
[IMG][/IMG]

now slide in the new hub assembly
[IMG][/IMG]

sorry for the next part no pics. in the kit is a snap ring. it will need to go on the end of the axle shaft to secure the hubs position. you may need to apply lateral pressure on the back of the axle shaft to expose the groove. i used the factory tire iron as a pry bar, then with a set of snap ring pliers it should pop right into place.

Next you will need to put in the new hub retaining ring.
[IMG][/IMG]

Making sure the hub dial is in the free position install the cover and test to be sure its working properly
[IMG][/IMG]

At this point reinstall the caliper and tire, then switch to the other side.

Now pat yourself on the back and go get muddy!

This is a tech thread so anything i missed, or tricks you can add will be appreciated.
broncoundertow is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-25-2010, 02:31 AM   #2
Southwestern Edition
Fullsize Member
 
Southwestern Edition's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 144
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1995 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD
Nice job. Looks good. It says 3 bold auto hub. Is that the number of the screws on the cover? Mine has 5. Is there a difference?
__________________
1995 5.0 XLT E4OD, 33x12.50 BFG A/T
Southwestern Edition is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2010, 02:35 AM   #3
broncoundertow
Registered User
 
broncoundertow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 72
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1996 eddie baure 5.8
yes that is the number of screws on the cover, yes there is a difference. you will not need the locknut kit. you will just need to remove the old hubs and slip in the new. ive seen threads on this swap its easier.
broncoundertow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2010, 08:01 PM   #4
jobei
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Somerville, MA
Posts: 261
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 87 Eddie 302 EFI AOD on 33"s
Hey, I got an 87 model and apparently the Warn hubs don't fit that year. Any suggestions? Also, if I have the push button shift, does that convert as easily? And would I need to lock the hubs before or after I hit the button?
jobei is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2010, 08:57 PM   #5
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,282
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
Jobei, if you have manual hubs you should engage the hubs before engaging the T-case. Auto hubs engage themselves after the T-case is engaged.

Does your 87 currently have manual hubs or auto hubs? In 87 the manual hubs are the odd "Top Hat" hubs which are more difficult to swap, but the auto hubs that year are the regular 5 bolt auto hubs that can easily be swapped to the Warn manuals.

This thread that we're in covers the 3 bolt auto to manual swap, but much of the info & pics apply to a 5 bolt swap (Without using the conversion kit). Here's the hub section from Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links. Links 5 thru 8 show the swap from 5 bolt auto to manual hubs. Links 13 thru 15 deal with the manual "Top Hat" hubs.

Quote:
Hubs, General Info
1-How do I know if automatic hubs are working properly? Gacknar gives the auto hub test in post 2. Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st.
2-Warn Hub Premium Assembly Bossind -Exploded view of Warn premiums.
3-http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/61420C0-pn20990.pdf -Warn instructions for removing assorted types of auto hubs & installing manual hubs. Includes exploded diagrams. Link provided by miesk5.

Hubs, Manual Replacement
4-Warn Premium Install Andy351 -Manual to manual swap.

Hubs, 5 Bolt Autos to Manuals
5-Auto to Manual Hub Conversion Writeup 90Beater's site.
(These 3 threads appear to be the same auto to manual write-up, but the rest of the info is also useful.)
6-Manual Hub Swap JD_Bronco
7-Changing Auto hubs to Warn Manual Hub complete instructions with pics godless
8-Install Warn manual hubs MyFullSize The link in post 1 is gone, but the info still applies.

Hubs, 3 Bolt Autos to Manuals
9-3-Bolt Auto hub conversion Froggmann's site.
10-3 screw auto to manual hub conversion ScottMoore
11-warn hubs -Junkyard parts instead of a conversion kit.
12-Hectic Hub Install stan the man -Specifics on the conversion kit, & which nuts & rings to use.

Hubs, Top Hat (87 to Early 88)
13-New Hub install Question Steve83 explains options in post 2.
14-Knuckle out conversion manual locking hubs B-man's Supermotors pics & info on swapping top hats to Warn premiums.
15-88 flange mount hubs Steve83's link to an exploded view in post 14.
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2010, 09:04 PM   #6
95F1504x4EB
Fullsize Member
 
95F1504x4EB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 424
iTrader: (3)
Bronco Info: 1995, F150, MAF 5.0L, 4R70W, BW 1356, 3.31 gears, 31x10.50s, Eddie Bauer Edition
Quote:
Originally Posted by jobei View Post
Hey, I got an 87 model and apparently the Warn hubs don't fit that year. Any suggestions? Also, if I have the push button shift, does that convert as easily? And would I need to lock the hubs before or after I hit the button?
Do you have the factory manual hubs (top hat style), or do you have the factory 5 bolt auto hubs?

EDIT: HAHA... I am too late!
95F1504x4EB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2010, 08:31 PM   #7
jobei
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Somerville, MA
Posts: 261
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 87 Eddie 302 EFI AOD on 33"s
Thanks so much guys! I have the auto hubs and I want to swap them out for the manual ones... I'm sure I should be posting in the noobie section but thanks for the help!
jobei is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2010, 02:01 PM   #8
95F1504x4EB
Fullsize Member
 
95F1504x4EB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 424
iTrader: (3)
Bronco Info: 1995, F150, MAF 5.0L, 4R70W, BW 1356, 3.31 gears, 31x10.50s, Eddie Bauer Edition
Quote:
Originally Posted by jobei View Post
Thanks so much guys! I have the auto hubs and I want to swap them out for the manual ones... I'm sure I should be posting in the noobie section but thanks for the help!
Yes, if you have an 87 with factory auto hubs you can swap them directly for manual hubs. Just make sure you get all the auto hub parts out before you put in the manuals.

click for large image


Source: Steve83
95F1504x4EB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2010, 05:36 PM   #9
devlzluv
Registered User
 
devlzluv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: va beach
Posts: 162
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 95 bronco xlt
ya 5 bolt is really easy already done one and doing mine this week.

Curious how come you had to take the whole rotor off to do this and not just keep it on?
devlzluv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2010, 06:11 PM   #10
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,282
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
Quote:
Originally Posted by devlzluv View Post
ya 5 bolt is really easy already done one and doing mine this week.

Curious how come you had to take the whole rotor off to do this and not just keep it on?
I think he addressed it here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by broncoundertow View Post
...now is a good time to check and repack your bearings...
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2010, 08:59 PM   #11
devlzluv
Registered User
 
devlzluv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: va beach
Posts: 162
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 95 bronco xlt
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Kabong View Post
I think he addressed it here:
Lol whoops I'm an idiot I didn't read
devlzluv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2011, 05:17 PM   #12
xmatrikx
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 38
iTrader: (1)
I can't make my own topic yet, so I had to post on this one, but I'm having an issue installing my warn premiums that were converted from the stock auto hubs. Truck is a 96 with 6 inch superlift and 38 inch tires. The driver side hub is damaged, and I think its because the previous owner installed the wheel bearing wrong. Pulled the hub off, and the back side which sits on the threads right where the washer and spacer would be, was damaged. The ring that hold the back part of the hub in, the gold ring under the locking ring was worn down. Tried to put the new hub in place, but it doesnt seat completely back no matter what I do. Its about a 1/4 of an inch too far sticking out, and I can barely see the snap ring groove around the hub, but can't get it far enough in to get the snap ring in place. The lock ring goes on the shaft no problem, but can't get the hub far enough in. I noticed that the old hubs worn down ring gave it enough play to have the hub slide far enough in, and it seat properly, however my new hub just won't slide in far enough. Yes the clip and washer are removed.

I just picked the truck up and the guy I bought it from said he just put a new wheel bearing in earlier that day and buttoned everything up. I'm thinking that the problem has to do with an incorrect wheel bearing install? As of right now, I can drive it, but I have to put it in lock, otherwise the hub would make a sound like a baseball card in the spoke of your bike, something grinding against the backside of the locking hub no doubt. Found all kinds of metal flakes that looked like they came from the inside of the hub cover and that back bronze ring that was ground down.

Has anyone had this problem before, and what should my next step be. I'm not driving it anymore till I figure this out, as its probable the bearing is already damaged and not trying to hurt anything else.

How many threads should be showing above that nut that holds the bearing? It looks like the threads are sticking too far out and not allowing the hub to sit correctly inside, thus not allowing me to get the snap ring in to hold it all in place. Sorry if I'm not using the correct terminology as this is my first time messing with hubs. Thanks in advance!
__________________
96 Bronco, 351w, 6" Superlift, 38's, 9k winch, rear locker, warn manual hubs, so many replaced parts it's getting ridiculous...
xmatrikx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2011, 06:06 PM   #13
xakpxplaymate08
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 69
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 87 302 efi stock ):
So is it better to run manual locking hubs over auto? The 87 that I just bought has auto locking
xakpxplaymate08 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2011, 06:32 PM   #14
El Kabong
Driving Stuff Henry Built
 
El Kabong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 5,282
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: -90 xlt, 351w, e4od, 3.55:1, sag, warn hubs, trans cooler, 35" bfg m/t, -73, 400, np435, 35s
How about if we call you guys X1 & X2? Or maybe just "X and Bacon"?

xmatrikx,
Mine is a 90 with an unusual nut set up. I can't help with your specifics, since mine is kinda weird. If I were in your position, I would pull it apart & see if something in or behind the bearing is wrong. If there were metal shavings in there, it's likely that some of that got in the bearing, & it needs to be checked anyway. hopefully someone with more specifics will jump in.

xakpxplaymate08,
Most of us find the manual hubs to be more reliable. There's a couple of diehards who love their auto hubs, but it seems like they go thru much more work, trouble, & expense than the rest of us. Once manuals are locked, they stay. They don't unlock if you get in a situation where you need to rock back & forth. If you live in an area where You're in & out of 4wd a lot, just leave them locked & use the t-case alone to shift in & out of 4wd. If you're going to be in 2wd for awhile, unlock them to reduce wear & tear on the front drive components.

Actually, 87 is a good year to convert the autos to manuals. They should be 3 bolt autos, which don't need the conversion kit. And 87s with autos use normal front end components, whereas 87s with manuals came with tophat hubs, which are expensive & hard to convert.
__________________
Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links........................Common Replies to FAQs

“Don't find fault, find a remedy.” -Henry Ford
El Kabong is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 01:33 AM   #15
xakpxplaymate08
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 69
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 87 302 efi stock ):
Well I was thinking (well most likely going to) run a solid axel. I'm just not sure. I think I wanna try to find a dana 44 front end.
xakpxplaymate08 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2011, 10:17 AM   #16
xmatrikx
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 38
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for the reply! Thats the next step, I just ordered a new hub/rotor and wheel bearing kit and I'm just gonna replace everything. The bearing isn't making any strange noises but it probably has metal flakes in it now. And the hub has a little damage to the end of it, so i figure better safe than sorry.
__________________
96 Bronco, 351w, 6" Superlift, 38's, 9k winch, rear locker, warn manual hubs, so many replaced parts it's getting ridiculous...
xmatrikx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2011, 12:22 PM   #17
raj49
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 3
iTrader: (0)
Cant seem to post my own thread so I'll post in here as well.

I rotated the front driveshaft on my 96 and the right axle seemed to spin but not the left. I pulled the right 3 bolt Auto out and stuff is broken in pieces and I cant tell what from anything else. I got as far as taking off a splined washer and shim then a spring loaded cam? How much further do I need to go?

Also, I wanted to go with Superwinch mostly because my interior is blue and the superwinch is blue in color. Can I get any conversion kit or do I need one from Superwinch? Do they make one? Or Can I order 2 of these: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...one-side-.html
raj49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2011, 02:16 PM   #18
raj49
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 3
iTrader: (0)
ok finally got around to it and pretty much done one side. I got the D44 spindle nuts from JBG. I just need the snap ring for the tip of stub axle.

What size is it? 1 1/4 internal or external? Also, am i gonna need snap ring pliers?
Any help appreciated.
raj49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 11:27 PM   #19
Just_Plain_Jason
Registered User
 
Just_Plain_Jason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 24
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1996 Bronco
Me stupid...

Yeah I wish I would have seen this before I started down my path of stupidity. Oh well...first time I have ever worked on a 4x4 and I am learning. I am just I just made a pretty big mistake and it is costing me a bit of money.
Just_Plain_Jason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2012, 01:53 AM   #20
rudedogii
Registered User
 
rudedogii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: HACIENDA HEIGHTS CA
Posts: 534
iTrader: (1)
Bronco Info: 95 BRONC0 Procomp/Skyjacker lift rear locker w 4:56
Autohub

I just did this for a friend. Started as a wheel bearing repack job!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hobonbhTybA
rudedogii is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  FSB Forums > Bronco Discussions > 1980-'96 Bronco Tech


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:13 AM.


© 2003-2009 FullSizeBronco.com. All rights reserved