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Old 05-22-2010, 06:24 AM   #1
Giraffe
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Odd creaking noise coming from left front wheel (4x4).

I'm getting a strange type of creaking (not exactly a squeak or squeal) sound coming from my left front wheel on my F-150. I jacked that side and spun the wheel and it still generates the sound even with weight off the wheel (not sure if that has any bearing, no pun intended, on noises a bearing/hub might make). This is my first 4x4 truck, and after owning nothing but Mustangs with sealed front hubs (including my '86 after I did the 5-lug conversion with '94+ front spindles/brakes), I honestly don't really know much about how it all comes together up front.

If it matters, it has Superwinch manual locking hubs.

Video of the noise (exact same sound as when driving): Noise.
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:10 AM   #2
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it could be the brakes dragging or the wheel bearings. take the tire off and start investigating.
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Old 05-22-2010, 08:58 AM   #3
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The way it sounded right at the end i would say its your wheel bearing. Dont drive it
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:41 AM   #4
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It's my daily, so I pretty much have no choice but to drive it. The car is still in the body shop. I tried to remove the cap on the hub, but one of the screws is stripped out. I guess I'm screwed.
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:57 AM   #5
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Hammer a smaller size bit into stripped area or KB weld it in and remove that stuck screw
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:24 AM   #6
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i suggest take the tire off then try another one. if it still noisy, then it's not the wheels.
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:49 AM   #7
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Take a Torx bit that is just a little larger than the stripped screw, tap it in there. I've had to do that several times.

Order one of these, http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...epair-kit.html.
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Old 05-22-2010, 11:21 AM   #8
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screw extractor set is a good investment... pick one up when youre getting your new bearings... dont forget youll need to pack them in grease so youll need that too..
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:01 PM   #9
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I bought a Haynes manual the other day and it's telling me that I need a special tool for the lock nut on the bearings? Tried the whole hammer in a torx bit thing and that didn't work. I'm just about broke right now, so the extractor kit will have to wait until payday. :(
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:08 PM   #10
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if you have a dremel tool you can make new grooves for the head of the screw...
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:35 PM   #11
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Nope. No dremel. That's another thing that should be on my list.
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giraffe View Post
I bought a Haynes manual the other day and it's telling me that I need a special tool for the lock nut on the bearings? Tried the whole hammer in a torx bit thing and that didn't work. I'm just about broke right now, so the extractor kit will have to wait until payday. :(
Man that screw must be gaulded pretty bad. As for the "special tool", here it is. http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...t-dana-44.html
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:02 PM   #13
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Yeah. The bit hammered in pretty good, but as soon as I turned it it just stripped the screw even more. Speeder is gonna help me with it on Friday, and I bought new bearings for both sides and some new warn hubs, so hopefully all my problems are cured by then.
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:19 PM   #14
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Just about the only thing you have left is to drill the head off the screw. Then when the hub comes off maybe you can get a good pair of vise grips on it.
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:50 PM   #15
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Its your DD I get that, but when that wheel locks up on you doing 50 be prepared. I had this happen to me and Thank GOD it was my passenger front. The bronco made an abrupt right turn sending me over a berm and about 5ft in the air doing 65. If it was the left front wheel I would of KILLED about 3 family's hitting them heat on. and if your driving it still you might as well price out a spindle to cause the bearing is probable going to be welded to it.

Be safe
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:05 PM   #16
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I really wish I had something else to drive, but it is what it is. The good thing is that I have less than a two mile drive to work, and that's all I'm using it for right now. And I only have three work days this week, and then it'll be sitting until it's fixed.
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Old 05-23-2010, 03:58 PM   #17
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ride a bike to work? otherwise you very well might need another spindle.... youll be lucky if it locks up... it could shear off...
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Old 05-23-2010, 05:11 PM   #18
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not to be a bummer, but you're gonna need a torque wrench as well. The "special tool" is sold at advance auto parts as well, it isn't very much but when you're broke an extra 15 bucks can make a big difference.

grease your bearings well and they'll be fine. You might need to pull the hub off and put as much grease in there as you can, it may help you to make it until payday without locking up...

Make sure you remove the little lock washer in front of the weird nut that you use the special tool on. it's a funny looking thing and can be hard to see with all the grease and such. I forgot to on mine and ruined the threads on my spindle...
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:53 PM   #19
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Here is a good post on the parts. Seal 25009 makes a terrible squeeking noise when it gets dry/worn out. I had a bad screw on the hubs and just drilled the head off. Once the hubs come off there is plenty left to grab with vice grips. Finding the replacement screw might be a problem I grab them from the JY to have some spares.

The NAPA 25009 seal is used on the 95/96 years. Not sure if any before that.
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:11 AM   #20
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Good luck on the spindle, dealer only part at 150+ and most shops wont press a new bearing if there is wear in the old one
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