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Old 10-19-2010, 02:36 PM   #1
ka47
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CLUNK noise when going into drive

when i put the truck into drive i get a loud metallic clunk noise. i think its coming from the tranny but im not 100% sure....

i dont think its the u joint because it only does it when going from park or reverse into drive. not from drive to reverse or anything.

its an AOD thats got a good amount of milage but still shifts pretty good.

motor mount maybe???

im taking it to a shop when i get back to town but im a little curious to see if anyones had this problem and if so, what it was...
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Old 10-19-2010, 02:39 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by ka47 View Post
when i put the truck into drive i get a loud metallic clunk noise. i think its coming from the tranny but im not 100% sure....

i dont think its the u joint because it only does it when going from park or reverse into drive. not from drive to reverse or anything.

its an AOD thats got a good amount of milage but still shifts pretty good.

motor mount maybe???

im taking it to a shop when i get back to town but im a little curious to see if anyones had this problem and if so, what it was...
if its a motor mount, get a friend to look at the engine while you put it from park to drive. if it is the motor mount the engine will move excessively and you should hear the noise, also check and maybe replace the u- joints
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:05 PM   #3
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
I"ve got the same thing going all of sudden, when I put it in D I get the same sound....I went underneath and checked the front U-joints because that seems to be where the sound comes from, putting a big screw drive in and wiggle the shaft to see if the joints are fubar and I did'nt find any play other then the "lash" in the differential etc.
I also looked for cracks and damage to the shaft ends and U clips that old it together and no visible sign of damage so maybe it's my motor mount, possibly right side.......

In the 8 years I've owned this BKO I've never had it in 4 wheel drive.......... but I did have the AOD rebuilt 5-6 years ago and service it myself annually with filter/gasket/fluid, my DD miles are very low now maybe 150 local or so a month.....but this just started a couple of days ago out of the blue and I have the original paper work from the PO and he had all the joints and shafts dones by 4x4 Parts not long before I bought the BKO....

OK I'll try looking at the motor mounts when it goes in P and see if that's it, I did swap in a new 302EFI long block by myself back in 08 but I didn't change motor mounts due to budget constraints.......alright great tip.

Thanks ~
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:29 PM   #4
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To check the motor mounts open up the hood and watching the motor put it in drive and rev it fast and short. If you see the motor bounce and hear the sound than its a motor mount. For a trans mount you will have to go under it and use a pry bar to see if it moves while lifting up the trans. Other possibilites can be something in the trans or possibly the rear end is ready for a rebuild.
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:36 PM   #5
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we act had one in the shop before , and it was the motor mounts and trans crossmember , seen alot of the crossmember cracked / broken , very few motor mounts , the motor in this one had act moved back an inch and half ,
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:37 PM   #6
JKossarides
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Good to know, I'll also check the transmission mount and cross member.....

I don't think it's the rear differential because the sound is coming from the front area, it doesn't always make the sound every time when I shift into drive but more then less and if there rearend where going out I'd hear/feel it back there.....

Anything is possible but the transmision was rebuilt 5-6 years ago and I drive the BKO "easy" I doubt there's 20K miles on it yet, I service it myself each year and it's running very strong and other then the clunk etc., everything is fine no additional noises or problems.......yet...

Thanks for the helpful input and I'll let you know what I find,, maybe I'll get lucky ..........lol lol

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Old 06-08-2011, 09:17 PM   #7
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It could also be that your slip joint needs lubed. Usually they make a dull "thud" sound when they are dry but wouldn't hurt to grease it
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:48 PM   #8
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
Well that's a thought too, I remember reading here about lubing the slip joint with a specific PTF grease on the end but you need to remove it in order to do so.....and I've the 4 bolt, round coupling there and the bolts are the weird looking shaped....so I need to figure out what tool I'll need for that...

I checked some time ago and noticed my U-joints don't have grease zerks so I'll go back underneath today and see where I can put any..sometimes there's a little screw instead...we'll see


Over the next few days then I'll go over this check list and "maybe" put the GF in the BKO and have her put it in D while I'm underneath with good light and see if I can narrow down where/what the noise is actually coming from...

My biggest priority right now is tires/alignment and shocks, tires are 5 years old down to the nub...and shocks are 7 where the BKO rides like shite going over even small bumps getting thrown around inside where I need my back adjusted......lol lol...

I'll start today and report back when I've completed the check list....

Thanks for all the input/suggestions guys, much appreciated ~
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:11 PM   #9
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I have similar behavior with the 92 Bronco Custom I recently purchased. When in park, after shifting to drive, when I first step on the gas it jerks and makes a clunk noise and the truck jerks pretty hard. It seems fine after it initially engages. Is this the same thing you experience?
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:51 PM   #10
Alvin in AZ
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A few years ago I inherited a -66k mile!- '91 F150 Super Cab. :)
It had the same thing you are describing at only 66k miles.

I mentioned it to my neighbor that had owned his own automatic
transmission shop and without hesitation he said it ain't the E4OD
it's the rear axle. Sure enough, that stinkin' 8.8" has got a ton of
slop in it.

YMMV?

The simple trick is to get under there and figure out where all the
extra slop in your system is coming from, easy as that. :)

----------------

Later heard a story that it "came back sounding like that" ...after
being loaned to a certain son-in-law ...he'd used the half-ton to
haul sod for 2 days is all. LOL :)

My plan is to overhaul it with 3.73 gears and an Eaton True-Trac
and put it in my 2wd Bronco.

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Old 06-09-2011, 03:14 PM   #11
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
OK I just did a quick check for zerks, there are only 2 on the rear shaft and I do have some play in that U joint so I'll grease it first and that helps, otherwise I'll consider replacing it if necessary, I want to look at the date on the PO paperwork when he had that work done...NBD

There are no zerks at all for the front shaft and I also looked at the transmission mount and pushed on it and there's no play but I'll go back with the pry bar later, though the rubber mount may need to be replaced but I'd really need to drop the cross member support to get a real good look and tomorrow I'll check the motor mount/s in drive and check for noise.

Does anyone know what is the appropriate tool for the "round coulping" for the rear shaft assuming I want to remove it and grease the end .....? They look sort of torx like but not......

I'll keep you posted....

Thanks ~
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:11 PM   #12
Alvin in AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKossarides View Post
...have some play in that U joint so I'll grease it first and that
helps, otherwise I'll consider replacing it if necessary...
{necessary! do it now}
{lose parts vibrating on a driveshaft can damage other parts}

They look sort of Torx like but not...
{wire brush + stuff from and aerosol can? ;}

I'll keep you posted...
{cool, that's the best part}
Set the parking brake etc and while it's idling, have a helper put it
in and out of neural, reverse and drive a few times while you watch
for motion that ain't quite right. All it took for mine.

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ps- Try not to get run over by a tire, it'd prob'ly hurt.
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Old 06-09-2011, 07:45 PM   #13
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Yeah I'm going to try that tomorrow, I'm very interested in what that turns up..

There's a lot of good info in the Haynes Manual which reviewed today such as the slip joint which I guess I have the Cardan with 4 U-joints, all suspension parts front/rear and motor mounts which I looked over with a bright light.

I did find the passenger inside disc brake pad "anti-rattle clip" " is in backwards from my temp pad swap last week so I'll be fixing that in the morning and just go thru the steps ...

Thanks ~
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:55 AM   #14
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check your torque converter bolts
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:04 PM   #15
Jax Rhapsody
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Mine clunks in reverse, and often has delayed downshifts when I stop at a red light. I think a fluid change could help that, it's the grinding I don't like thats poped up lately.
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Old 06-10-2011, 06:27 PM   #16
JKossarides
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I reversed the anti rattle disc brake pad clip and it's worn like it was machined by the rotor....lol lol....still useable but I'll just go ahead and get new ones, the kit costs $5.99 for pins and clips....NBD

Checked prices on a transmission mount, $9.99, motor mounts $7.99 each and U joints vary in price but I want "greaseable" ones so I'll revisit that ....

Probably do the clunk in drive test tomorrow.

For the torque bolts I'll have to turn the engine by hand with a torque wrench until so the bolts come around....PITA, can't hurt to check......

In progress, keep ya posted...

Thnaks ~
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Old 06-12-2011, 05:18 PM   #17
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OK mystery solved with the "put in drive clunk test", it's the the Cardan unit in the slip joint at the back of the TC but it's interesting how noise is deceiving because I definately thought it was up front.....

I had a buddy from the Gun Club get in the BKO this morning to place in D and followed the noise, then watched the big coopling and that's were the noise is coming from when it goes in D and you can see it move a bit with the noise.

There are two screws where the grease zerk would go so I'll pick up a few to install and grease it to see if the helps a bit for now, also need anti rattle brake pad clip....lol lol....the zerks should be standard right...?

I'd like to go with a greaseable type U-joint....and I think I can press them out/in on the vice grip based on that video......and I'll get the PTF grease for the other end of the slip joint while I'm at it. I have a another gun club buddy who has a great machine shop in his garage locally so either way it'll get done right after tires and shocks......I'm sure it will hold up a bit longer.

Alright who can tell me what tool I need for those style bolts in the double coupling......I'm just going to douche the living crap out of them with PB Blaster.....

Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys....PITA but at least I know what it is....

Good Luck ~
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Old 06-12-2011, 10:20 PM   #18
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12 pt 5/16
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:56 PM   #19
JKossarides
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
12 point 5/16 socket or wrench....?

Once the coupling is apart is it hard to pull out the shaft from the differential, I've never done this before........IIRC here was something about snipping the zip ties on the dust boot cover.....?

I'll do some research as well, I know there's plenty of info on this...

Thanks ~
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Old 06-13-2011, 03:06 PM   #20
Alvin in AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKossarides View Post
OK mystery solved with the "put in drive clunk test",
it's the the Cardan unit...
Cool thanks for the update. :)

A cheap easy fix compared to what I was figuring on.

Butthead in AZ
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