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96 5.8L EGR Tube Removal

30K views 31 replies 14 participants last post by  Chancey 
#1 ·
I began dismanteling my EGR system last night. From the research I have done on FSB I need a 1 1/16" crow foot socket to remove the EGR tube at the exhaust manifold. Question is - Where can I find one of these crow foot sockets? I have searched Harbor Freight and sears websites and neither of them have one, or a set that includes one that size. Is there another tool I can use? I tried a cresent wrench but there is not enough room.

Thanks,

Jay
 
#2 · (Edited)
yo, most auto parts stores have them;
some use a box wrench and cut out a section a bit wider than the tube.

If tube is bad, why not saw it off at egr and use a box wrench or socket on it?

"...The EGR tube experiences HIGH Heat. Your going to have to heat the bolt, up to red hot to get it to turn. You may try a small torch... heat the "bolt head" and and try to turn. MAKE SURE you do not round the head of the "bolt". ..."
Source: by Bill D
Bill is referring to the flats & ford calls it da "EGR Tube Nut"
 
#4 ·
miesk5, I'm not sure if the tube is bad or not. Its hard to tell from above. I tried dropping little mirror down there but still can not see that great. I can see that the bending section of the egr pipe has a dark spot on it simmilar to steve83's picture attached.

[/IMG]
 
#8 ·
Well I managed to get the connection to the exhaust manifold free, but now I need to free the tube nut from the connection. I guess I will need another wrench. I feel like every single time I want to do something I have to go buy new tools. I have tons of tools, I dont think I ever get to reuse them after the initial reason for thier purchase.:banghead:banghead:banghead
 
#10 ·
I feel like every single time I want to do something I have to go buy new tools. I have tons of tools, I dont think I ever get to reuse them after the initial reason for thier purchase.:banghead:banghead:banghead
Haha, I have to do the same thing! I don't mind so much though, because even with the tool purchases I reassure myself by knowing I am spending far less than paying a shop to do the work. And I get to keep the tools!
 
#9 ·
yo jrich,
'
I hear ya on da tools.. I have no room left here.. they are stacked up all over the place.

If yo need a new tube;
Part Number, pics & info in a 96 5.8; "...FORD F5TZ-9D477-E; Exactly what I needed and much improved over the original. The bellows section is gone and the pipe is one piece stainless. The sensor tubes are perfectly aligned and the heat wrap is a tougher material over the original part... The brazing job on the old one "worked". It did seal it up but looked horrible to me. I didn't want it on my truck for fear it would crack somewhere else and I'd have to do this all over again. The heat from brazing really got this section red hot for quite some time; My local Ford dealership wanted $155. Another 25 miles away wanted $87...and it was on my way to work. No difference in the part...just the price for some reason...."
Source: by 3speed at FSB

at e bay; US $53.60 Buy It Now


at AMAZON..Price: $86.03
In Stock.
Ships from and sold by AutoPartsDirectToYou.
Only 6 left in stock--order soon
-- try to find best price via Google.
 
#12 ·
My friend's F150 broke one of those at the "accordian" part when we were doing the headers. Neither Autozone or O'Reilly's could find the part, but NAPA did.
 
#16 ·
I got mine out - had to use the 1-1/16" open/box end wrench going from the bottom of the bronco then the top engine compartment. back and forth, back and forth. It wasnt easy but I didnt let it kick my azz.
There is a frame access area under the bronco cross-member to gain limited access. Hence the reason to go back and forth.
I bought mine at:
FORD F5TZ-9D477-E TUBE - EGR VALVE TO EXHAUST MA $59.51
http://www.finditparts.com/
 
#17 ·
I wonder why my nut is 1 1/4" when everyones is 1 1/16"? I just cut the tube off at the base, now I have to go get a large 1 1/4" socket to finish removing the tube nut and connector. I tried for a while last night with my cresent wrench, no success. It should be easy with the socket, I hope.
 
#23 ·
According to dealer it is FOTZ-9F485-A Exhaust Manifold Connector Fitting. Thats what I ordered through them. Once I have the new tube and connection in I'll update if that part no is correct.

Another concern is that my egr tube nut and connection require a 1 1/4" wrench or bolt while others need a 1 1/16". So I went ahead and ordered a new connection. I can return it if my old one will still work.
 
#26 ·
I've always used a 1 1/4" long open end wrench from the bottom but you have to flip it over and over again. I put some anti-seize on the end before I screwed it into the headers to make sure I can get it out easily next time. :thumbup -Kevin-
 
#27 ·
Hey guys..i know this is an old thread..but i was wondering if a broken or cracked egr stem would cause a 332 code? I was going to take off my egr to clean it up and when i went to take the upper nut off thats just below the egr that my tube would turn a little bit..didnt realize there was an accordion section there till after i slid up the heat conduit so i just stopped so that i didnt crack or break it..but ive done some searches to test the evr and check to see if sucking on the hose to see if the egr works..ill do that after it stops snowing..but was wondering if also a cracked egr would throw out that code as well..not intending to high jack or anything..thank you.
 
#28 ·
More 332 code help please!!!

Hey, I was wondering the same thing on code 332, Mine is a recurring problem for years on my 94 EB 5.8. I have checked vac. lines, replaced canister, changed Egr Valve,
Egr Sensor on top of Valve, And Egr solenoid:scratchhe:banghead. Wiring appears to be good, and Vac seems to have no leaks. About two years ago, removed EGR, cleaned Egr tube to manifold with a Shotgun brush and comp. air, cleared the code. Only have put about 5,000 miles since then, and now code 332 is back. Egr tube looks good and solid, no corrosion, no holes that I can see. Its driving me crazy. About to change the EGR again, because this one has some years on it, and while at it, scrub out and inspect that tube again. Hopefully it will clear it again. But I sure would love to have some feedback from someone that has had the same experience, and if so, what worked for them???
 
#31 ·
I still have yet to do this..i did replace the egr vacuum line that goes to the plastic vacuum manifold cause i broke it while changing out spark plugs..but have the vacuum hoses to replace all the vacuum lines just the weather hasnt been cooperating here in colorado and being in an apartment..well its just no bueno.. But i havent done it yet cause i went on a solo snow busting trip and got my truck stuck..in the process of trying to get it out i burned up my power steering pump :banghead. To get out these locals had to get a 4wheel drive backhoe to get me unstuck lol. Never again though...going to build it up to be self sufficient so that it doesnt get stuck again! ;)
 
#30 ·
Hey everyone! I was just wondering...does an EGR DELETE do anything for the performance of the 5.8L? I'm just wondering if an egr delete is an efficiant modification or is it seemingly pointless? I believe I am having EGR issues with my 89 FSB and was contemplating a delete but am unsure of the Pros and Cons and you guys here on FSB Forums seem to be the answer to all myquestions thus far. Thanks in advance.:smilie_slap:smilie_slap
 
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