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Old 04-09-2011, 01:06 PM   #1
halflife
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Frame and rear end Rot repair project

On vacation the next week and going to tackle a long overdue rot repair project. the body has been sitting banging on the frame for months. never tackled a metal repair job this big before and have only welded 2 small things before so please give advice and criticize! My plan is the drop the tank which i need to replace the sending unit for and open up the space. unbolt but from the looks of it more then like grind off the body mount bolts and then redneck jack the body up on wood blocks on the frame enough for me to have room to cut out and weld in what i need to for the frame repair. then cut out the rear end rot and rebuild that.
this is what i am starting with. i have already scrapped allot of the rust bullet off. when i painted the truck silver is coated everything on the lower half of the truck in rust bullet, which really was a waste because the rust bullet just flaked off after about 2 years.














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Old 04-09-2011, 05:34 PM   #2
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Wow! Thats alot of rust. Might be easier to just buy a different bronco.
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:23 PM   #3
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It is fixable but it depends how motivated you are.
You will need a welder and some sheet metal skills.
There us a thread that shows that part getting rebuilt around here some where.
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:37 PM   #4
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i did a bit of that in my reuilbd (follow linkd below).

BTW, while the gas tank is out, put in an in-cab-floor access panel.

Steve83 used to sell them.. just bits of a donor floor cut up with rivets really. and sealer.
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:14 PM   #5
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I've been where you are, and can tell you that from my experience you need to take the body off completely if you want to make a worthwhile job of it. I also thought I could just jack the body up to fix my rot, but as soon as I did I found that there was much more rot unseen, and it was too difficult to do anything without taking the body off.

But your rot is still MUCH worse than mine - once you jack the body up, I think you're going to find more structural rot than you thought you were, and I'm not sure if you're going to be able effectively deal with it without taking the body completely off. You've got some serious thinning of your frame in a bunch of places and especially where you've either got spring hangers or body mount perches, and it's going to be a real bitch to cut out, replace or repair a lot of it.
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:51 PM   #6
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Man this is gonna be alot of work. There are bronco's in fantastic condition here in Florida for 1500. No rust at all. It would be easier to buy one of those and use the frame and body as a donor for your project. Hell Ive even see one here in orlando a month ago for 600 bucks with not a spot of rust.
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:14 PM   #7
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giving up on this bronco is not an option. I will cut patch weld hack ghetto fab but i am not sending her to the grave! has sentimental value to me. I have a build motor half way done for this too but i felt this was more important for now.
gonna be allot of grinding.
gas tank is out, i will be replacing this with a new one.





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Old 04-09-2011, 10:44 PM   #8
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You should adjust your camera or something. All of your pictures have a massive blue tint.
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Old 04-09-2011, 11:03 PM   #9
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yeah cant figure that out, i am will use a different camera.
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Old 04-09-2011, 11:06 PM   #10
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I have the deepest respect for you for taking on something like this. I dont think I could do the same. Id probly have to salvage what I could and give the rest a viking funeral.

It does look to me like you would just about HAVE to do a body off restoration on this. I dont know how you will be able to fully fix it otherwise. That frame needs some serious inspection. Id go buy me a good blaster and blast that thing down to the bare metal so you can see how bad it really is once you got the body off.

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Old 04-10-2011, 03:15 AM   #11
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Ouch, I know how bad salt air can be, but damn. Are you sure someone didn't submerge that thing in salt water? Like others have said already, it may be cheaper to find a donor and/or starting with something in better shape.

Whatever your decision is, good luck.
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:28 AM   #12
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Roger that looks worse than a northern salt belt BKO.

JBG has all the part cut past the rust & plate it back together.

I have done worse but we wheeled them to the grave.

Buy a 50 pak of 6" cut off wheels & a Metabo
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:34 AM   #13
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With that amount of rust, I wold definetly want to do a frame off restore. Got alot of work ahead of your self. Good luck with it.
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:39 AM   #14
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i have a sand blaster and plan on using it, just stocked up on media yesterday. I wish i could do a frame off i just dont have the time or money for that, one day in the future. About to go piss the neighbors off on this beautiful sunday morning and start grinding!
the car has never been submerged. but it has lived its entire life parked the 3rd house from the ocean, drive on the beach and now i live on the water so it has salt air eating at it every minute of the day! and nasty NYC salt road winters.
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:42 AM   #15
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yo, Some Ford frame info for you

Frame Strength, 96 F-Series, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco all use a 36,000 psi steel frame. from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco Workshop Manual; The F-Series and Bronco frames are made of all steel channel with replaceable steel crossmembers..." read more
Frame Strength, Bronco, F-Series, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab all use a 36,000 psi steel frame.

Source: by Ford via miesk5 at FSB



Steering Box Frame Crack Repair
Source: by Ford via by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/520094

The following areas of the frame should be checked before performing a steering gear frame liner repair: the frame rail near the steering gear top and bottom flanges, and the frame rail at the steering gear bolt heads. If there are cracks in these areas of the frame, the frame must be replaced. Inspect the mounting surface of the steering gear for signs of motion, loose rivets or cracks. Removal of the steering gear may be necessary to check for cracks in the frame liner. If the frame liner is cracked or has loose rivets, repair the liner by using Frame Repair Kit E6TZ-5K130-A. If necessary a steering gear liner to frame, rivet repair can be made by using the procedures described in the illustration.

Rivet Removal and Replacement
1. Drill a 1/8-inch hole through rivet.
2. Redrill the hole through the shank of the rivet with an 11/32-inch drill.
3. Use an air chisel to remove rivet head.
4. Drive out rivet with a punch or other suitable tool.
5. Line drill one 7/16-inch hole marked "V" to 9/16-inch diameter.
6. Install one 9/16-inch bolt in the direction shown in the first illustration.
7. Position bolt head on top (next to crossmember) with hex head flat to the rear to provide best clamping.
8. Install one 9/16-inch washer nut side only and one 9/16-inch nut. Tighten to 190 N-m (140 ft-lb).
NOTE: Tack weld the nut to the bolt as shown in the second illustration.

For more info & torque specs, see:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/5.../psgearbox.jpg


92 Bronco Frame Dimensions (other years similar; '92-96 F150 similar)
(other years similar, exc. for "front crumple zone")
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:55 AM   #16
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Good luck with your project... will be watching as I am probably going to have a similar situation later on this spring.. I don't think mine is a s bad being in NNJ all it has had to contend with is the winter salt...
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:08 PM   #17
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Looks like you have your work cut out for you. Rebuilding the rear support is loads of fun, I did a lot of the same work to mine as well.
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:14 PM   #18
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Lunch Break! nice big gyro
Got most of the body off the frame. I removed all the body mounts except the front 2 and the 2nd one from the front on the passenger side (not budging with the impact, gonna throw some heat on it later but i think it is actually helping while i get everything in place for now. I think i am just going to cut out the rear box that runs across the truck. some of it I could salvage but i think it might just be easier and stronger if i replace it all. I think i will be able to do almost everything i need without lifting the body futher. there is going to be a few sections I am unsure if i can get too, and the frame rail body mounts will need to be replace or come off to get to to repair. This is where I am at


driver side is seperated totally from rear panel




pretty thin, dont think the washer trick is gonna work here


this is going to be the hard one to fix, tight


gonna drill these out and replace
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:57 PM   #19
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miesk5 great info thanks...i am going to tackle the front end rot when i swap the new motor.

Airplane stripper yes! my first time using this stuff wow. i used it on the seam sealer that runs along the rear to clean that up and get a better look. Is the bed just glued with the sealer along the rear? How should i get the rear edge seperated? so of it is rotted so i can cut that out but i want to salvage as much of the bed as possible.







I was able to get the knife under the edge here about two inches over but i am not sure if it was just separated because of rot or i cut the glue.


started cutting some of the rot out

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Old 04-10-2011, 11:31 PM   #20
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That rear body support is still available thru Ford. I would think seriously about finding one and replacing your whole section. Mine wasnt that bad so I patched it......while I had the body off. If mine had been that bad, I would have replaced it.
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