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Old 10-03-2011, 05:13 PM   #1
Runs You Over
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Double Cardan Joint

Hey I wanna rebuild my rear drive shaft but I keep hearing from people how big of a pain it is... And this is from professional techs at a local 4wd shop. Is it really as hard to do as they say? I have good mechanical skills though I am not nearly a pro. Looking for people that have actually done this job to weigh in. Thanks guys
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Old 10-03-2011, 05:43 PM   #2
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Changing a double cardan joint is hard??? No it is not but it can take hard physical labor as they are sometimes very hard to get apart. I did the one on my Jeep and it was a piece of cake.
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:43 PM   #3
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Mine was not that hard, a friend would help hold the parts as you press (beat) them apart and back together. Just pay attention it will be fine.
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Old 10-03-2011, 08:17 PM   #4
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Do a search on it. there is a write up on it.
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Old 10-03-2011, 08:25 PM   #5
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http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=162738
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:46 PM   #6
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That's a great writeup.
The press that he used is available as a tool loaner at autozone. They lend it to you if you leave a deposit equal to the cost of purchase. I noted that Pep Boys now has a similar program.
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:45 PM   #7
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That press is a ball joint press. I got one at Harbor. I never used it for u-joints. Good idea. But seriously, Ive change lots of u-joints on the side of the road (and the off-road) with just a hammer and a socket.
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Old 10-06-2011, 12:23 PM   #8
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Ok cool, thanks guys! Ill be givin this a shot in about a week. Ill let you know how it turns out.
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Old 10-07-2011, 05:48 AM   #9
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I just replaced the U-joints in mine. Be carefull when you pull the joints from the cardan, there is a bearing in there that if full of needle bearings. They will fall out and get messed up really easily. I didn't see any way to put them back in, or replace the bearing, so I removed them all and packed the bearing with grease. Good luck with yours.
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:11 PM   #10
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Damn! The pictures on 1clean5.8s write up are gone... Anyone know of another? I cant seem to find one
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:16 PM   #11
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Mine was not to bad to do, try this link:
http://www.rblewis.net/personal/bronco/driveshaft/
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:27 PM   #12
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"Too easy Drill Sargeant!" Did mine this week with a ball peen hammer. You're better off buying the ball swivel rebuild when doing a DC joint. If you just put new U-jonts in it, and it's still floppy, replace that ball swivel also.


http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p101...reaseable.html
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:23 AM   #13
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Damn! The pictures on 1clean5.8s write up are gone... Anyone know of another? I cant seem to find one
They're back now. Sometimes Supermotors just has a bad day.
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:39 AM   #14
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The pictures in that write up are great, but if the dissappear again, here are scans from the shop manual.

http://broncozone.com/topic/12560-do...n-driveshafts/
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:45 AM   #15
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yo,
The Bronco rear driveshaft is of the double Cardan type which incorporates two universal joints, a driveshaft centering socket yoke (4782), and a driveshaft center yoke (4784) at the transfer case end of each shaft. A single universal joint is used at the axle end of the driveshaft.

Rear Driveshaft and Coupling Shaft, Bronco

Driveshaft, Double Cardan Universal Joint
1996 Bronco Workshop Manual
Disassembly

CAUTION: Under no circumstances is the driveshaft to be clamped in the jaws of a vise or similar holding fixture. Denting or localized fracture of the tube may result, which may cause driveshaft failure during vehicle operation.

Place the driveshaft (4602) on a suitable workbench being careful not to damage the tube.

Mark the positions of the spiders, the driveshaft center yoke (4784), and the driveshaft centering socket yoke (4782) as related to the stud yoke that is welded to the front of the driveshaft.

Remove the snap rings that secure the bearings in the front of the driveshaft center yoke.

Position U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C as shown. Tighten the tool clockwise until the bearing protrudes approximately 9.525mm (3/8 inch) out of the yoke.
see Diagram E23316-E

Clamp the bearing in a vise and tap on the driveshaft center yoke to free it from the bearing.
see E2332-D

Lift the two bearing cups from the spider.

Reposition the tool on the driveshaft center yoke and move the remaining bearing in the opposite direction so that it protrudes approximately 9.525mm (3/8 inch) out of the driveshaft center yoke.

Clamp the bearing in a vise. Tap on the driveshaft center yoke to free it from the bearing.

Remove the spider from the driveshaft center yoke.

Pull the driveshaft centering socket yoke off the center stud. Remove the rubber seal from the centering ball stud
Remove the snap rings from the driveshaft center yoke and from the driveshaft yoke.

Position the U-joint tool on the driveshaft yoke and press the bearing outward until the inside of the driveshaft center yoke almost contacts the oil slinger at the front of the driveshaft yoke.

Pressing beyond this point can distort the oil slinger. The following illustration shows the interference point. see E2336-D

Clamp the exposed end of the bearing in a vise and drive on the driveshaft center yoke with a soft-faced hammer to free it from the bearing.

Reposition the tool and press on the spider to remove the opposite bearing.

Remove the driveshaft center yoke from the spider.

Remove the spider from the driveshaft yoke in the same manner.

Clean all serviceable parts in cleaning solvent. If using a repair kit, install all of the parts supplied in the kit. If the driveshaft is damaged, replace the complete shaft to be assured of a balanced assembly.

Assembly
NOTE: Universal joint kits are to be installed as complete assemblies only. Do not mix any components from other universal joint kits.

Position the spider in the driveshaft yoke. Make sure the spider bosses (or lubrication plugs on kits) will be in the same position as originally installed.

Press in the bearing using U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C. Install the snap rings.

Pack the socket relief and the ball with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

Position the driveshaft center yoke over the spider ends and press in the bearing. Install the snap rings.

Install a new seal on the centering ball stud. Position the driveshaft centering socket yoke on the stud.

Place the front spider in the driveshaft center yoke. Make sure the spider bosses are properly positioned.

With the spider loosely positioned on driveshaft center yoke, proceed to seat the first pair of bearings into the driveshaft centering socket yoke, then press the second pair into the driveshaft center yoke. Install the snap rings.

Apply pressure on the driveshaft centering socket yoke and install the remaining bearing cup.

Lubricate the universal joint (if equipped with grease fittings) with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:06 AM   #16
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yo,
I had to stop and enter my reply bec. I reached the Limit on attachments
Next is to inspect and lube;
Slip Shaft Spline Lubrication pic in a 95; "...If your bronco suffers from the notorious thunk this is a good time to lube your shaft.."
Source: by TRUCKY18 (Bco) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/259896
SM is still having issues; sp it may be back on-line completely soon.

Slip Shaft Spline Location; "...Instead of sliding into the t-case like a car driveshaft would into a trans, a Bronco driveshaft normally is two pieces that slide together. The slipshaft is normally covered by a rubber boot in the middle like in the pic below..."; miesk5 note, slip yoke is often referred to as the Slip Shaft Spline
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB


Driveshaft Boot, Dana SpicerLarge hole diameter = 2.5000 inches $24.00
Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
Small hole diameter = 1.6600 inches
Boot length = 5.3400 inches
No clamps included



Driveline Clunk as Vehicle Starts to Move Following a Brake Stop (Two-Piece Driveshaft); "...Loose rear spring U-bolts. TIGHTEN U-bolts to specification. Worn or galled output driveshaft and coupling shaft splines. REMOVE the driveshaft from the vehicle. CLEAN the male splines and INSPECT for worn or galled splines. REPLACE if necessary. Worn or galled driveshaft slip yoke splines. CLEAN and INSPECT the female splines of the driveshaft slip yoke for worn or galled condition. REPLACE if necessary. Damaged driveshaft slip yoke seal. REPLACE seal. Insufficient lubrication in driveshaft slip yoke. Using a long handle (stencil type) brush, APPLY grease evenly on all the splines of the driveshaft slip yoke. REINSTALL driveshaft and using a hand grease gun, LUBRICATE the driveshaft slip yoke through the grease fitting (not fitted on most if not all Broncos, but I heard some have it... but that could have been isntalled by a previous owner or shop). Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B. NOTE: Install the driveshaft slip yoke, making sure that the coupling shaft and driveshaft are in phase..."


GREASING;
This is how FORD describes it;
cut the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamps (4K227) with sidecutters. Remove and discard the clamps
Separate the driveshaft slip yoke (4841) from the splined stub shaft on the driveshaft.

Remove the slip yoke boot. Inspect the slip yoke boot for rips or holes and replace if required.

If, during inspection, the driveshaft and coupling shaft boot is found to be cracked or split, the grease should be checked for contamination. Check the lubricant by rubbing between two fingers. Any gritty feeling indicates a contaminated driveshaft slip yoke and stub shaft. If driveshaft (4602) is operating satisfactorily and the grease does not appear to be contaminated, add grease as described in the assembly portion of this procedure and replace the slip yoke boot. If the grease appears contaminated, disassemble the driveshaft, clean and inspect the stub shaft and driveshaft slip yoke for wear. If splines are excessively worn, replace driveshaft.

If required, remove and replace the U-joints.

Assembly
Install the slip yoke boot with the small diameter side facing the splined stub shaft on the stub shaft. Push the slip yoke boot as far as it will travel on the stub shaft.

Install a small driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp and crimp the clamp using Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A.

Compress the slip yoke boot and coat the stub shaft splines with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

Fill the slip yoke boot with approximately 10 grams of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

Slide the large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp onto the barrel of the driveshaft slip yoke.

Align the blind splines on the splined stub shaft and in the driveshaft slip yoke. Push the driveshaft slip yoke onto the stub shaft.

Remove all excess grease from the slip yoke boot and driveshaft slip yoke surfaces. Position the slip yoke boot over the driveshaft slip yoke boot groove.

Move the driveshaft slip yoke in or out in order to obtain the distance of 10 inches between stud shaft weld to the centerline of the driveshaft slip yoke U-joint
Before installing the new large slip yoke boot clamp, make sure that any air pressure which may have built up in the slip yoke boot is relieved. Carefully insert a screwdriver between the slip yoke boot and the driveshaft slip yoke and allow the trapped air to escape ("burp") from the slip yoke boot. THE AIR MUST BE RELEASED ONLY AFTER THE DRIVESHAFT IS SET AT THE SPECIFIED LENGTH
Position the new large driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp over the slip yoke boot and groove in the driveshaft slip yoke. Crimp the driveshaft slip yoke boot clamp with Keystone Clamp Pliers T63P-9171-A
Source: by Ford

Boot pic by SeattleFSB
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Old 10-27-2011, 02:52 PM   #17
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I just rebuilt BOTH my drive shafts in July, DO NOT BEAT ANYTHING WITH A TOOL, Harbor Freight sells the Ball joint/U-joint press for $69.99 and look for their internet coupons for 10-15% off the price. All you need is a decent size vice grip 4" width, mounted on a work bench in the garage then mount the big C clamp press in the vice grip, 7/8 socket with torque wrench, works like a charm.

Better yet, O'Reilly's rents that tool for a large deposit ($128.00) but it's 100% refundable as long as it's returned in 48 hrs. so total cost to you is 0 (zero). I used it for my front drive shaft because my gun club buddy who has the garage work shop to die for was out of town, he has a massive industrial size vice grip that would crush a car......lol lol.

"SEARCH" and read thru this thread; How often to grease silp joint? or something worded close to that, everything you need to help you rebuild the Cardan is there, several pictorial links and videos as well.

Note this, the "cv centering ball" inside the yoke in the middle of the Cardan knuckle may be rebuilt by it's self reusing the originsal yoke, CV Ball, Spring and Seal www.broncograveyard.com offers a kit for $12.99 plus shipping but it depends what year the BKO is so pay attention to that detail in the thread. My 86 cv centering ball/spring/seal was not rebuildable by it's design, the ball was machined in and I couldn't get the ball out so I bought a new complete "yoke" from O'Reilly's for $69.99 plus tax.

For reference because the drive shafts are balanced they need to go back in exactly they way they come out so get a small paint brush and dab some white or yellow spray paint (spray paint into can cap) on the flange, yoke, drive shaft on each end, then there's no guessing how it goes back in.

My suggestion is to use "greaseable u-joints" for both shafts so you can lube them once or twice a year and they will last indefinately...the only trick is to place the u-joints correctly so the grease zerks point out opposite of each leaving access room otherwise you can't get the grease gun fitting on the zerk and will have to "drop" the drive shaft down in order to lube....PITA.

For the slip joint and yoke, clean thoroughly and use Mobil one synthetic grease, liberal amounts of grease on the sfat end and for the "yoke" I loaded it up with grease then took a dowl and paper towels to force the grease all the way down inside, clean the dust boot inside and out, any color tie-wrap keeps it in place and you're good to go, RED was my choice to match the RED Energy Suspension TRE "dust boot covers" I replaced on the drag link...lol lol

Take your time, don't rush and when pressing in the first cap, listen for the "plink" sound, a sign it's positioned correctly but watch the angle of the cap as it's going in, don't let it get crooked and make sure it's just passed the spring clip grove on the drive shaft loop, insert that spring clip, then put the u-joint into that cap, take of the second cap off and position the u-joint in the open loop, watch the pins inside each cap they don't get disturbed out of place SO take a big goober of grease and fill the inside of the cap, then drive in the second cap, plink all the way in, spring cilp and then make sure the u-joint with caps are centered in the drive shaft loops, you can now "carefully" press each side a tiny bit either way if necessary but becarefull of the spring clips, don't over do it with the press. Wipe off any excess grease that squirts out from the caps otherwise as the drive is turning the excess grease will splatter everywhere underneath.

Replace the drive shaft starting with the Cardan knuckle with drive shaft end attached first, slide on the dust boot cover then slide the yoke thru the dust boot cover so it lines up correctly with the shaft end because it only fits together one way then push the yoke in as far as you can first then back it out so you line up the yoke to the flange and bolt it up, doing it this way makes it much easier so you don't have to fight with it.

When you drive away from a standing stop at a traffic light you won't believe the differnce and if you rebuild the front drive shaft it's even better.

The cost of the Cardan parts was around $106.00 out the door and the front shaft parts was $19.55 = $126.00 vs $300-400.00 having it done at a shop.


Good Luck ~
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:53 AM   #18
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I just rebuilt my rear driveshaft and I think any home mechanic can handle the job, just take your time and give it some thought. Here are some hints...

1. Mark your driveshaf where it meet the rear diff--They are balanced so it must go on the same way it was removed

2. Consider using a high quality U-Joint such as Spicer from JBG, if you call them they know exactly what U-joints you need

2.5 Do not inject the insides of the U-joint with grease before assy, the caps can be tough to install because of grease inhibiting their movement. (Do grease the needle bearings under the caps)

3. Do the diff end first to get a feel for how the U-joints go in b/c it it the easiest to learn from (and most likely the one with the most wear)

4. I have allways used a Socket and a hammer to hammer the pressed ends out, has all ways worked fine for me. Be warned you may ruin your socket by flaring the ends by hammering on it.

5. I have allways used a vice to press in the new caps and a hammer and socket to get them low enough to install the snap rings.

6. On the DC end, I remove the outer U-joint first and the inner one second, Assemble in reverse

7. On the center piece between the U-joints make sure to take care if it's needle bearings and you may have to tap on it to get it on far enough to install the outer U-Joint

8. A Haynes manual will also have a write up on this.

9. If you screw it up take it and your parts to an auto shop and tell them to fix what you messed up.

You may find the DC end like a puzzle but doing this job will be a worthwile experience.
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Old 10-28-2011, 03:15 PM   #19
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Using the ball joint/u-joint press, it's ready to go to press caps out/in, 7/8" socket and torque wrench and IMHO much better then taking a chance of "hammering" them out least you damage the Cardan knuckle or drive shaft loop on the shaft end, you're definatley "fawked" at the point $$$$$$.

Most standard vice grips tend to be around 4" width wide open with a small handle bar for turning and will bend adding a larger bar to it for leverage, not enough space to place the drive shaft end or Cardan knuckle that are 4" wide with 2 -1 inch sockets M/F style on either side = 6" at a minimum in order to press caps etc.

So you're going to need a bigger vice grip that opens at least 6-7 inches minimum doing the job that way, I checked around and a 6-7" width vice grip can run anywhere from $200 to $400.00.... ouchie $$$$ for a job you're only going to do once in awhile....

Everybody has their own approach on How To do things so it's all good as long as you can get it done right, common sense, becarefull and if you do use a hammer I would suggest at least a 4lb sledge hammer just for the weight, it will definately move things....lol lol


Good Luck ~
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Old 09-08-2012, 12:24 PM   #20
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Hey guys great write up. My oldest stepson just had his go out on his 96 Bronco 302 Auto. Not familiar with the 4x4 stuff being a Drag Car nut and all. I went to all 3 auto parts chain stores and all 3 looked at me like I was nuts when I asked for a Double Cardan joint rebuild kit for the boys Bronco. Can anyone list me a website or parts list of what I need. Much appreciated guys.
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