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Old 03-14-2012, 05:35 AM   #1
Fordman5
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Still running hot...

My Bronco was and is running with the needle on the "L" in "NORMAL". It runs the hottest on the freeway and tends to cool down a bit when in the city as weird as that sounds. I changed the thermostat and put a bigger 2 row radiator in and it is still running hot. Also, it seems to warm up initially pretty quick too. I don't see any problem with the water pump either. Any thoughts?
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:38 AM   #2
hizootiemizark
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Have you checked the temp sensor? Also the if its the stock temp gauge it may be reading wrong I guess. Just the first things that come to mind.
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:55 AM   #3
miesk5
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Bronco Info: 96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
yo FORDMAN,
Description & Operation, Diagnosis & Testing, Removal & Installation, Service Procedures, Cleaning & Inspection & Special Service Tools/Equipment in a 96 from 1996 Bronco Workshop Manual
Engine Overheats
Damaged water thermostat. (verify that is installed properly, see diagram at end, # Thermostat Installation, 5.0L5.8L )
Item Part Number Description
1 8255 Water Outlet Connection Gasket
2 8592 Water Outlet Connection
3 391428 Screw, 5/16-18 x 1.25
4 8575 Water Thermostat
5 391430 Screw 5/16-18 x 1.75
A Insert with Copper Pellet Towards Engine
B Tighten in Sequence Indicated in Text to
16-24 Nm (12-18 Lb-Ft)


Damaged water pump.
Cooling fan inoperative.
Plugged radiator.

GO to Pinpoint Test B.
B1 CHECK COOLANT LEVEL
NOTE: If engine is hot, allow engine to cool down before proceeding.



Remove radiator cap and check coolant level at radiator coolant recovery reservoir.
Is coolant level OK?
Yes GO to B2.
No REFILL as outlined. REFER to Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding in the Cleaning and Inspection portion of this section. GO to Pinpoint Test A


B2 CHECK COOLANT CONDITION
Check coolant for contaminants such as rust or corrosion. Also, check for color discoloration.
Is coolant condition OK?
Yes GO to B3.
No FLUSH system. REFER to Cooling System Flush Procedure in the Cleaning and Inspection portion of this section. RETEST system

B3 CHECK FOR AIRFLOW OBSTRUCTION
Visually inspect A/C condenser core and radiator for obstructions, such as leaves or bugs.
Is there any obstruction?
Yes REMOVE obstruction and CLEAN A/C condenser core and radiator in the Cleaning and Inspection portion of this section. RETEST system.
No GO to B4.

B4 CHECK WATER THERMOSTAT OPERATION
Allow engine to run for 10 minutes.
Feel the inlet and outlet heater water hose and the underside of the upper radiator hose.
Are the upper radiator hose and heater water hoses cold?
Yes REPLACE water thermostat. REFER to Thermostat, Water in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. RETEST system. No LEAVE engine RUNNING. GO to B5.

B5 CHECK COOLING FAN
Check for proper cooling fan clutch operation. Perform Fan Clutch Test. Refer to Component Tests in this section.
Did cooling fan clutch operate OK?
Yes CHECK the following:
Rust or scale in radiator
Water pump shaft and impeller
Collapsed lower hose
No REPLACE fan clutch. REFER to Cooling Fan Blade and Fan Clutch in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. RETEST system.

-----------------

Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding
WARNING: DO NOT STAND IN LINE WITH OR NEAR ENGINE COOLING FAN BLADE (8600) WHEN ENGINE (6007) IS RUNNING.
WARNING: NEVER REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP (8100) UNDER ANY CONDITIONS WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE COOLING SYSTEM OR ENGINE OR PERSONAL INJURY. TO AVOID HAVING SCALDING HOT COOLANT OR STEAM BLOW OUT OF THE RADIATOR (8005), USE EXTREME CARE WHEN REMOVING THE RADIATOR CAP FROM A HOT RADIATOR. WAIT UNTIL THE ENGINE HAS COOLED, THEN WRAP A THICK CLOTH AROUND THE RADIATOR CAP AND TURN IT SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. STEP BACK WHILE THE PRESSURE IS RELEASED FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM. WHEN YOU ARE SURE ALL THE PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED, PRESS DOWN ON THE RADIATOR CAP (STILL WITH A CLOTH), TURN AND REMOVE IT.
To prevent loss of coolant when draining the radiator, attach a hose on the radiator draincock (8115) and drain the coolant from the radiator into a clean container.
To drain the radiator, open the radiator draincock located at the bottom of the radiator and remove the radiator cap or supply tank cap. The cylinder block of the V-8 engine is drained by removing the drain plugs located on both sides of the cylinder block (6010). The six-cylinder engines have one drain plug located at the right rear of the cylinder block.
If replacing coolant, dispose of old coolant in accordance with applicable federal, state, and local laws and regulations. Promptly clean up any spilled coolant.
Without degas bottle, fill the cooling system by installing the cylinder block drain plug(s) and close the radiator draincock. Disconnect the heater outlet hose at the water pump (8501) to bleed or release trapped air in the system. When the coolant begins to escape, connect the heater outlet hose.
Fill the radiator until the coolant is between the cap seal in the filler neck to 38mm (1-1/2 inches) below the cap seal. Install radiator cap.
Start engine, warm up, shut off engine. Allow engine to cool, remove radiator cap and check coolant level. Fill as required
=====

Cooling System Flush Procedure
Radiator Installed
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number
Heater Hose Disconnect Tool T85T-18539-AH
NOTE: When disposing of used coolant, always do so in accordance with all applicable federal, state and local laws and regulations.
To remove rust, sludge and other foreign material from the cooling system, use Ford Premium Cooling System Flush F1AZ-19A503-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M14P7-A. Flush system using Rotunda Cooling System Flusher 106-00010 Flush Kit Hardware Package 106-R0011, and Drain Kit 106-R0015 or equivalent. Removal of such material restores cooling efficiency and avoids overheating.
Always remove the water thermostat prior to pressure flushing. A pulsating or reversed direction of flushing water flow will loosen sediment more quickly than a steady flow in the normal direction of coolant flow. In severe cases where cleaning solvents will not properly clean the cooling system for efficient operation, use the pressure flushing method. Various types of flushing equipment are available.
Radiator Removed
CAUTION: Radiator internal pressure must not exceed 138 kPa (20 psi). Damage may result.
Back-flush radiator. Position a high-pressure water hose in lower radiator hose location and back-flush.
Remove water hose connection (8592) and water thermostat as outlined.
Back-flush engine (6007). Position high-pressure hose into engine through water thermostat and back-flush engine.

===========

Heater Core Back-Flushing
All engine cooling system flushing and back-flushing procedures must include a separate back-flushing of the heater or air conditioning/heater system heater core (18476), after the flushing or back-flushing of the engine cooling system. This will prevent engine cooling system particles from clogging the heater core tubes and reducing (or eliminating) coolant flow through the heater core.
The heater core must be back-flushed separately from the engine cooling system for proper back-flush water flow direction through the heater core.
The correct heater core back-flushing procedure is as follows:
On F-Series and Bronco vehicles, disconnect the outlet heater water hose from the water pump fitting and install a female garden hose-end fitting adapter in the end of the outlet heater water hose. Secure with a hose clamp .
Connect the female garden hose-end of the outlet hose clamp to the male end of a water supply garden hose.
Disconnect the heater core inlet hose clamp from the engine block fitting and allow to drain onto suitable container.
If a heater water control valve (18495) is installed in the heater core inlet hose clamp, check to be certain the heater water control valve is open (no vacuum).
Turn the water supply valve on and off several times so that the surge action will help to dislodge larger stubborn particles from the tubes. Allow full water pressure to flow for approximately five minutes.
Remove the heater water hose and female garden hose-end adapter from the end of the outlet hose clamp and connect the outlet hose clamp onto the water pump fitting.
Connect the inlet heater hose onto the engine block fitting.
Fill the cooling system as described in Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section.
Test the system for proper heater performance.

.......

Coolant Mixture
Service refill recommendations are 50/50 mixture of water and permanent coolant/antifreeze such as Ford Premium Cooling System Fluid E2FZ-19549-AA or B or equivalent meeting specification ESE-M97B44-A plus 1.41 (1.5 qts) of Heavy Duty Cooling System Additive FW-15 or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESN-M99B169-A.
Minimum acceptable coolant/water concentration is 45 percent antifreeze to 55 percent water. Maximum acceptable is 60 percent coolant to 40 percent water. Use only a hand-held refractometer such as Rotunda Battery/Antifreeze Tester 021-00046 or equivalent to check concentration.
In an emergency, ordinary tap water with a low alkali content may be used provided the system is drained and flushed and filled with the specified coolant/water mixture as soon as possible. Use only if that temperature is above 0C (32F).

----------


Fan Clutch Test

Spin the fan. A light resistance should be felt. If there is no resistance or very high resistance, the minimum and maximum fan speeds must be checked as follows:
Refer to Fan Clutch Specifications at the end of this section.
Minimum Fan Clutch Requirement Test � Cold
WARNING: TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE, DO NOT OPERATE THE ENGINE UNTIL THE FAN HAS BEEN FIRST EXAMINED FOR POSSIBLE CRACKS AND SEPARATION.

Using a suitable marker, mark the water pump pulley (8509), one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley (6312).
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
Install a throttle adjusting tool.
Connect a Sun Strobe Light or equivalent. This can be an SLT-1 or SLT-2 Strobotach or an STA-1 Strobe Trigger adapter for the Sun Distributor Test Stand. A Digital Photoelectric Tachometer 055-00108 or equivalent may also be used for this test.
Start the engine and run it at approximately 1500 rpm until engine temperature has normalized.
Adjust the engine to the testing speed in the Specificationsat the end of this section.
Operate the strobe light at water pump test speed and aim it at the water pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flashes and the water pump pulley marks are synchronized.
Aim the timing light at the fan retaining bolts. Adjust the strobe light until it is synchronized with the marked fan retaining bolt (fan appears to stand still).
The fan speed must not be greater than the specified fan test speed at water pump test speed.
Turn the engine OFF.
If the fan speed was greater than the specified fan test speed, check for proper parts usage.
If the correct parts are used, replace the fan clutch (8A616).
If the part(s) are not the correct ones, replace the part(s) and perform the test again.
If the engaged fan clutch requirement test is going to be performed, do not remove the tachometer, strobe light or throttle adjusting tool.
If a Maximum Speed Fan Clutch Requirement test is not going to be performed, remove the tachometer, strobe light and throttle adjusting tool.

Maximum Speed Fan Clutch Requirement Test
WARNING: TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE, DO NOT OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE HOOD OPEN UNTIL THE FAN HAS BEEN FIRST EXAMINED FOR POSSIBLE CRACKS AND SEPARATION.

If the disengaged fan clutch requirement test was not performed, follow Steps 1 through 5 under Minimum Speed Fan Clutch Requirement test.

Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille (8200), this will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed.

Place the air conditioning selector, if so equipped, in the maximum position and the blower switch in the high position.

Adjust the strobe light to water pump test speed.

Start the engine and adjust it until the water pump pulley is synchronized with the strobe light. This will be near the engine testing speed given in Specifications.

Synchronize the timing light with the fan to fan clutch retaining bolt.

The fan speed must meet or exceed the specified minimum fan blade test speed at water pump test speed.

If the fan speed was less than the specified fan test speed, replace the fan clutch.

Minimum Fan rpm at Disengagement Temperature 1800 @ 140F

Minimum Fan rpm at Engaged Temperature 2800 @ 200F

Cooling Fan Blade and Fan Clutch, Mechanical
5.0L, 5.8L and 7.5L Engines
Removal
Remove screws retaining fan shroud (8146) to radiator (8005).
Remove four screws retaining clutch on water pump hub.
Pull fan clutch and fan blade off water pump pilot and remove fan clutch, fan blade and shroud from vehicle.
Remove four screws and separate fan clutch from fan blade.

Installation
Position fan blade to fan clutch and attach with four screws. Tighten screws to 16-24 Nm (12-17 lb-ft).
Position fan clutch, fan blade and shroud in vehicle.
Position fan blade and fan clutch to water pump pulley (8509) and attach with four screws. Tighten screws to 16-24 Nm (12-18 lb-ft).

Install shroud tighten screws 6-8 Nm (53-71 lb-in).
In Cooling Fan Blade and Fan Clutch diagram below:
Item Part Number Description
1 8509 Water Pump Pulley
2 57632-S Screw and Washer Assembly, 5/16-18 x .62 Hex
3 8600 Fan Blade (5.0 and 5.8L)
4 8600 Fan Blade (7.5L)
5 8A616 Fan Clutch
6 380288-S2 Screw and Washer Assembly, 5/16-24 x .88 Hex
A 16-24 Nm (12-18 Lb-Ft)
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Old 03-14-2012, 09:17 AM   #4
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Mine was like that too, I got an aftermarket mechanical temp gauge and it reads cool.
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:00 PM   #5
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Bronco Info: '96 Black 302 XLT - '94 Green 351 E. B. both have E4OD, 3.55 axles, 31 10.50x15
If after checking out all of Miesk5's tests, you still have the problem, take a good look at your lower radiator hose. If it is "soft", sometimes they will collapse at higher engine speeds, slowing the coolant flow and causing an intermittent overheating issue that clears up when the engine is reduced to idle.
You should be able to see it start to collapse by looking at the hose when revving the engine, or just squeeze it when the engine is warm. (with engine off to keep your fingers.) Some lower hoses have an internal spring to prevent collapse.

Good Luck
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:30 PM   #6
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Bronco Info: '89 7.3/7.3 banks turbo, parked in storage.
I to had similar issues to this.... ended up getting a new temp gauge and all was well. of course i spent near of 300 bucks before i changed the temp gauge in the cab to fix the problem... For me i always try to fix the complex and its the cheap easy crap that is broken!
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Old 03-14-2012, 02:59 PM   #7
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
By chance did you "backflush" the cooling system when you switched to the new 2 row radiator......?

"Also, it seems to warm up initially pretty quick too"
^
Unfortunately this could be a sign you may have a blown head gasket.....next time you start the BKO, start it with the radiator cap off and see if the coolant in the neck is "racing" like boiling water right away....another tell tale sign is a burnt smell, if that's the case pull the dipstick and look for coolant in the oil, same for radiator neck........

Certainly temp guage sending units or the dash guage can also be the problem giving off false readings, so if you're replacing the temp guage sending unit get the BRASS style, they only cost around $10.00 and don't over tighten it when threading it back or you'll crack the lower intake manifold right there it pipe threaded.

Break out the multimeter for the idiot temp guage in the dash and test it.

What about fan belt tension.....or fan clutch.....how do they fair...?

Once you get this figured out add some Redline "water wetter" to the coolant to help reduce ambient cylinder temperature and prevent corrosion, costs around $10.00, I use it, I like it.


Good Luck ~
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:12 PM   #8
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Bronco Info: 93 xlt bronc. 302 m50d. 4in extended rad arm Dick Cepek lift, 35in TOYO M/Ts
I just rebuilt my ENTIRE cooling system trying to figure out the EXACT same problem. i was beating myself up trying to figure out what was going wrong.

I went to NAPA and got a new thermostat housing with a threaded hole in the top of the housing. picked up a mechanical temp gauge, came with brass adapters to fit into the hole in the thermostat housing, installed it with my cluster gauge still functional. At 65 down the highway, my cluster gauge read right past the L on NORMAL, while my mechanical gauge read right about 180.

you should grab an oil pressure gauge while your at it. I have put 2 used gauge clusters in mine and have had problems with every gauge on em.
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Old 03-15-2012, 01:20 AM   #9
Fordman5
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I pray to God I don't have a blown head gasket!! I'm going to put a temp gauge in it and see how that works out for me. How do you guys have them set up in the interior of your bronco?
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Old 03-16-2012, 04:39 AM   #10
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I bought a simple aftermarket temp gauge today. I'm gonna install it within the week and i'll keep you guys posted.
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03' terminator cobra 2.8" pulleyn jlt, stinger exhaust
03 marauder 300a tune, aero mufflers, k & n intake
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:00 AM   #11
miesk5
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yo FORDMAN;

Are there any obvious signs of overheating?
Such as;
coolant loss in da Coolant Recovery Tank
whitish exhaust
milky oil
steam under hood
etc.?
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:45 AM   #12
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Bronco Info: 79 Ranger XLT-460,NP435,NP205,stock axles/3.50's,2.5"RC lift,33"trxxs mt's,72 impala horn(best mod)
if it's been a few years.....i would go ahead and toss a new fan clutch on there. mine was bad even though it had slight resistance with the engine off.
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