ignition switch or actuating rod? - FSB Forums
Register Home Forums Active Topics Photo Gallery All Albums Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance FSB Store
FullsizeBronco.com is the premier Ford Bronco Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-19-2012, 11:05 PM   #1
dougc767
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 401
iTrader: (1)
Bronco Info: 1991 EB 5.8l, 1995 xlt 5.8, 1995 EB 5.8
ignition switch or actuating rod?

'95 bronco. The ignition switch will crank the engine and turn it on, but when you rotate the switch back to off it's free wheelin', no resistance, and doesnt turn the engine off. Is it the cylinder barrel, actuating rod, or something else? I haven't taken anything apart yet, wanted the expert opinions and prior experiences beforehand. Thanks.
dougc767 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-20-2012, 08:59 AM   #2
472SCJ
Registered User
 
472SCJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Rockford,IL
Posts: 170
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 78 Bronco,472 Super CobraJet,C6 3500 stall,39.5 Super Swampers, 5:14 Ratio
I would remove the actual ign. swicth from the lower part of the colunm and start checking things from there, remove the switch and see how the actuating rod moves out of the switch, with turning the key and without
472SCJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2012, 09:22 AM   #3
Pennywiserawker
Registered User
 
Pennywiserawker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Grantsville, MD
Posts: 497
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 95 XL lifted, bored and capable
This happened to me 2 years ago. The actuating rod has a grove or loop that the ignition switch goes through. The rod is made of plastic and the back half of the rod breaks off which had happend to me. I took the two torx bolts out that hold the IS in and just push the little rod that comes out of the top of it. If that seems primative to you it may be time to wire in a push button start which there are multiple thread here at FSB that will help you through it. I just havent got around to doing so. Im almost possitive that the same problem has happened to you. If the the push button doesnt sound like a good idea then you may have to buy a new column at the JY.
__________________
Built 351 w/GT40 heads, E-fan, Flowtech ceramic coated shorty headers, Bassani y-pipe, single chamber 3" muffler,10.25" rear, ZF 5spd, 16.5" chrome wagon wheels, 37"x 12.50" Goodyear Wrangler M/T OZ tires, 6" lift ProComp rear leafs, Front Leaf D60 SAS Front bumper build in progress!
Pennywiserawker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2012, 09:56 AM   #4
miesk5
Fullsize Member
 
miesk5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 12,761
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
yo,

Actuator Rod Pics (Upper & Lower); 92-96 w/Ford Part Numbers
Source: by http://www.steeringcolumnservices.co...-actuators.php
Actuator (upper)
This white plastic ignition actuator gear with teeth often breaks prevents you from starting or shutting off the vehicle with the ignition key. The ignition rack actuator failure if often misdiagnosed as a ignition lock or ignition switch problem.


Actuator (lower)
OEM # F2DZ 3E723 A
Fits Makes: Ford Cars & Trucks
Fits Years: 1992-2008
$28.63
This white plastic ignition actuator is the lower actuator on most Ford cars and trucks. This piece is actually what joins with the ignition switch to start the car. It is pushed by the ignition lock cyliner and upper rack gear.
Our Part # RACK06
OEM # F0DZ 3E715 A
Fits Makes: Ford Cars & Trucks
Fits Years: 1992-2008
$32.08

Removal in a 95 w/Tilt; "...Symptoms of the problem before tearing into the steering column was that I could start the truck, but not shut it off. The key was easily turned without any “normal” resistance/spring to it and all accessories had power with the key in any position. The rest is pretty simple though. All reverse of installation..."
Source: by KC200787 at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181708
__________________
96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
USN & DoD Planner (ret)
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
miesk5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2012, 10:33 AM   #5
dougc767
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 401
iTrader: (1)
Bronco Info: 1991 EB 5.8l, 1995 xlt 5.8, 1995 EB 5.8
Wow! I read thru the process of tearing down the column to access those 2 ignition actuators. Think I'll reserve a weekend or 2 for that process. Thanks miesk5, thats the same symptom as what I have.
dougc767 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2012, 09:57 PM   #6
dougc767
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 401
iTrader: (1)
Bronco Info: 1991 EB 5.8l, 1995 xlt 5.8, 1995 EB 5.8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pennywiserawker View Post
This happened to me 2 years ago. The actuating rod has a grove or loop that the ignition switch goes through. The rod is made of plastic and the back half of the rod breaks off which had happend to me. I took the two torx bolts out that hold the IS in and just push the little rod that comes out of the top of it. If that seems primative to you it may be time to wire in a push button start which there are multiple thread here at FSB that will help you through it. I just havent got around to doing so. Im almost possitive that the same problem has happened to you. If the the push button doesnt sound like a good idea then you may have to buy a new column at the JY.
Curious to know if that entailed pulling half the dash and steering wheel. Is it accessible from underneath? Thanks.
dougc767 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2012, 10:54 PM   #7
dougc767
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 401
iTrader: (1)
Bronco Info: 1991 EB 5.8l, 1995 xlt 5.8, 1995 EB 5.8
That was pretty involved. I followed the links Miesk5 added in post #4 and they were very informative. I ordered from steeringcolumnservices.co and received the parts I needed. They offered a short cut to replacing the upper actuator, and reluctantly, I followed it. I'll be replacing it again sooner or later, hopefully the latter. But it's fixed! Now that I've taken it apart for the first time and put it back together, I'd recommend replacing it the proper way. Just take alot of pics while disassembling. Hats off to Steve83 as well, he's got the s#%t in his signature thing, just need to click and search. You can re-assemble a whole bronco from his links.
dougc767 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 08:49 AM   #8
miesk5
Fullsize Member
 
miesk5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 12,761
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
yo Doug,
Great! you saved at least $100.00 +++ by DIY
One tip is to ensure that the ign key is Not on a chain or key ring with many other keys and small knives or other items; need to avoisd it getting caught lock receiver as strg wheel is turned. Heay key chains also

There was a recall for this for 87-91 MY Broncos, F Series, etc. ; # 93V066000

Section 11-04: Steering Column 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, Bronco, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Motorhome Chassis Vehicles Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder, Lock Cylinder Non-Functional
Removal
NOTE: The following procedure applies to vehicles in which the ignition lock is inoperative and the lock cylinder cannot be rotated due to a lost or broken key, unknown key number, or a cap that has been damaged or broken to the extent that the lock cylinder cannot be rotated.
Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
Remove steering wheel (3600).
Using channel lock pliers or vise grip pliers, twist cap until it separates from the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582).
Using a 3/8-inch diameter drill, drill down middle of ignition lock key slot approximately 44mm (1-3/4 inch) until ignition switch lock cylinder breaks loose from breakaway base of ignition switch lock cylinder. Remove ignition switch lock cylinder and drill shavings from lock cylinder housing.
Remove retainer, bearing and gear. Thoroughly clean all drill shavings and other foreign materials from casting.
Carefully inspect lock cylinder housing for damage from the above operation. If damage is apparent, lock cylinder housing must be replaced.

Installation
Replace lock cylinder housing, if damaged.
Install gear, bearing and retainer.
Install trim and electrical parts.
Install new ignition switch lock cylinder.
Install steering wheel.
NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more for the powertrain control module to relearn the strategy.
Connect battery ground cable.
Check operation of lock cylinder.
__________________
96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
USN & DoD Planner (ret)
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
miesk5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 05:11 PM   #9
The Ric
MORTAL KOMBAAAAAAATTT!!!!
 
The Ric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: rollin` doobies in a van down by the RIVER!!
Posts: 2,973
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 88 EB custom dents, and rust.
hey if its the rod, check the tech write-up section. there is an awesome write up on this
__________________
Not to sure what to put in my signature anymore.

1988 Ford Bronco EB - 2010 Chevy Malibu - 2009 Cannondale Six5 - 2013 FELT F75X
The Ric is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 07:36 PM   #10
dougc767
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 401
iTrader: (1)
Bronco Info: 1991 EB 5.8l, 1995 xlt 5.8, 1995 EB 5.8
Yes, thats the one I referenced. However, when I ordered the parts the company sent directions as well, but their's were for a short cut that entailed altering the rod. Like I said earlier, it wasn't the correct way to fix it, but I did it anyway and will be regretting it sooner or later.
dougc767 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 04:35 PM   #11
4NIC8R
Registered User
 
4NIC8R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Nevada
Posts: 193
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 91 Silver Anniversary
Going to necro here and ask a similar question; lock, rod, or switch,

I can turn the key in the lock and it will go into the "run" position and the lights come on, but no start. It does not spring back and there are no indents for each key postion, just turns. The lock position works and will lock the wheel.
__________________
1991 SA
5.8L, E4OD, BW1356
217,000 miles and rolling
Second... and Fourth Owner!
4NIC8R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2012, 07:43 PM   #12
4NIC8R
Registered User
 
4NIC8R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Nevada
Posts: 193
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 91 Silver Anniversary
....bump

Anyone? A little help would be appreciated before I start tearing it apart.
__________________
1991 SA
5.8L, E4OD, BW1356
217,000 miles and rolling
Second... and Fourth Owner!
4NIC8R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2012, 09:28 PM   #13
80bronc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 15
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
yo,

Actuator Rod Pics (Upper & Lower); 92-96 w/Ford Part Numbers
Source: by http://www.steeringcolumnservices.co...-actuators.php
Actuator (upper)
This white plastic ignition actuator gear with teeth often breaks prevents you from starting or shutting off the vehicle with the ignition key. The ignition rack actuator failure if often misdiagnosed as a ignition lock or ignition switch problem.


Actuator (lower)
OEM # F2DZ 3E723 A
Fits Makes: Ford Cars & Trucks
Fits Years: 1992-2008
$28.63
This white plastic ignition actuator is the lower actuator on most Ford cars and trucks. This piece is actually what joins with the ignition switch to start the car. It is pushed by the ignition lock cyliner and upper rack gear.
Our Part # RACK06
OEM # F0DZ 3E715 A
Fits Makes: Ford Cars & Trucks
Fits Years: 1992-2008
$32.08

Removal in a 95 w/Tilt; "...Symptoms of the problem before tearing into the steering column was that I could start the truck, but not shut it off. The key was easily turned without any “normal” resistance/spring to it and all accessories had power with the key in any position. The rest is pretty simple though. All reverse of installation..."
Source: by KC200787 at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181708
Definately sounds like the problem your having, I had a similar issue on my truck
80bronc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2012, 11:55 PM   #14
dougc767
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 401
iTrader: (1)
Bronco Info: 1991 EB 5.8l, 1995 xlt 5.8, 1995 EB 5.8
It's that plastic actuator rod that's behind the ignition tumbler (where you put the key in), it connects to another plastic piece deep inside the steering column. I'm not a pro mechanic, but it was doable to replace. Like I mentioned earlier, I should've replaced it correctly instead of the shortcut way that the instructions led me into. I think I bought the replacement from "Ignition Actuators" or something like that, and they included the shortcut instructions. It's still working fine for the time being, but not so sure for the long haul. Be careful with that damn tilt spring! Wear eye protection and teach that thing lesson! I know a few curse words, but my wife never heard so many outside the bedroom. :) Good luck, you can do it!
dougc767 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 10:19 AM   #15
4NIC8R
Registered User
 
4NIC8R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Nevada
Posts: 193
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 91 Silver Anniversary
Thanks!
__________________
1991 SA
5.8L, E4OD, BW1356
217,000 miles and rolling
Second... and Fourth Owner!
4NIC8R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2014, 02:45 PM   #16
rufus
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern California
Posts: 70
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1994 5.8 XLT in need of TLC
My '94 ignition lock was flaky so I got new cylinder, but when I drove it into the garage to install it (and a clockspring) the lock has failed completely. The chrome ring (bezel?) will rotate (stiffly) without a key, the lock cylinder doesn't rotate and I can't get the key in. It is not in the run position so the pin won't depress. Should I follow this removal procedure or do I have any other options?

Update: Never mind. Managed to get the key in on about the 59th attempt after some persuasion with a screwdriver, rotated the cylinder and extracted it. Phew!

Last edited by rufus; 05-28-2014 at 06:16 PM. Reason: Update
rufus is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  FSB Forums > Bronco Discussions > Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone!


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:23 AM.


© 2003-2009 FullSizeBronco.com. All rights reserved