ignition switch or actuating rod?

[dougc767]

'95 bronco. The ignition switch will crank the engine and turn it on, but when you rotate the switch back to off it's free wheelin', no resistance, and doesnt turn the engine off. Is it the cylinder barrel, actuating rod, or something else? I haven't taken anything apart yet, wanted the expert opinions and prior experiences beforehand. Thanks.

[472SCJ]

I would remove the actual ign. swicth from the lower part of the colunm and start checking things from there, remove the switch and see how the actuating rod moves out of the switch, with turning the key and without

[Pennywiserawker]

This happened to me 2 years ago. The actuating rod has a grove or loop that the ignition switch goes through. The rod is made of plastic and the back half of the rod breaks off which had happend to me. I took the two torx bolts out that hold the IS in and just push the little rod that comes out of the top of it. If that seems primative to you it may be time to wire in a push button start which there are multiple thread here at FSB that will help you through it. I just havent got around to doing so. Im almost possitive that the same problem has happened to you. If the the push button doesnt sound like a good idea then you may have to buy a new column at the JY.

[miesk5]

yo,

Actuator Rod Pics (Upper & Lower); 92-96 w/Ford Part Numbers
Source: by http://www.steeringcolumnservices.co...-actuators.php
Actuator (upper)
This white plastic ignition actuator gear with teeth often breaks prevents you from starting or shutting off the vehicle with the ignition key. The ignition rack actuator failure if often misdiagnosed as a ignition lock or ignition switch problem.


Actuator (lower)
OEM # F2DZ 3E723 A
Fits Makes: Ford Cars & Trucks
Fits Years: 1992-2008
$28.63
This white plastic ignition actuator is the lower actuator on most Ford cars and trucks. This piece is actually what joins with the ignition switch to start the car. It is pushed by the ignition lock cyliner and upper rack gear.
Our Part # RACK06
OEM # F0DZ 3E715 A
Fits Makes: Ford Cars & Trucks
Fits Years: 1992-2008
$32.08

Removal in a 95 w/Tilt; "...Symptoms of the problem before tearing into the steering column was that I could start the truck, but not shut it off. The key was easily turned without any “normal” resistance/spring to it and all accessories had power with the key in any position. The rest is pretty simple though. All reverse of installation..."
Source: by KC200787 at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181708

[dougc767]

Wow! I read thru the process of tearing down the column to access those 2 ignition actuators. Think I'll reserve a weekend or 2 for that process. Thanks miesk5, thats the same symptom as what I have.

[dougc767]

Originally Posted by Pennywiserawker

This happened to me 2 years ago. The actuating rod has a grove or loop that the ignition switch goes through. The rod is made of plastic and the back half of the rod breaks off which had happend to me. I took the two torx bolts out that hold the IS in and just push the little rod that comes out of the top of it. If that seems primative to you it may be time to wire in a push button start which there are multiple thread here at FSB that will help you through it. I just havent got around to doing so. Im almost possitive that the same problem has happened to you. If the the push button doesnt sound like a good idea then you may have to buy a new column at the JY.

Curious to know if that entailed pulling half the dash and steering wheel. Is it accessible from underneath? Thanks.

[dougc767]

That was pretty involved. I followed the links Miesk5 added in post #4 and they were very informative. I ordered from steeringcolumnservices.co and received the parts I needed. They offered a short cut to replacing the upper actuator, and reluctantly, I followed it. I'll be replacing it again sooner or later, hopefully the latter. But it's fixed! Now that I've taken it apart for the first time and put it back together, I'd recommend replacing it the proper way. Just take alot of pics while disassembling. Hats off to Steve83 as well, he's got the s#%t in his signature thing, just need to click and search. You can re-assemble a whole bronco from his links.

[miesk5]

yo Doug,
Great! you saved at least $100.00 +++ by DIY
One tip is to ensure that the ign key is Not on a chain or key ring with many other keys and small knives or other items; need to avoisd it getting caught lock receiver as strg wheel is turned. Heay key chains also

There was a recall for this for 87-91 MY Broncos, F Series, etc. ; # 93V066000

Section 11-04: Steering Column 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, Bronco, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Motorhome Chassis Vehicles Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder, Lock Cylinder Non-Functional
Removal
NOTE: The following procedure applies to vehicles in which the ignition lock is inoperative and the lock cylinder cannot be rotated due to a lost or broken key, unknown key number, or a cap that has been damaged or broken to the extent that the lock cylinder cannot be rotated.
Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
Remove steering wheel (3600).
Using channel lock pliers or vise grip pliers, twist cap until it separates from the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582).
Using a 3/8-inch diameter drill, drill down middle of ignition lock key slot approximately 44mm (1-3/4 inch) until ignition switch lock cylinder breaks loose from breakaway base of ignition switch lock cylinder. Remove ignition switch lock cylinder and drill shavings from lock cylinder housing.
Remove retainer, bearing and gear. Thoroughly clean all drill shavings and other foreign materials from casting.
Carefully inspect lock cylinder housing for damage from the above operation. If damage is apparent, lock cylinder housing must be replaced.

Installation
Replace lock cylinder housing, if damaged.
Install gear, bearing and retainer.
Install trim and electrical parts.
Install new ignition switch lock cylinder.
Install steering wheel.
NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more for the powertrain control module to relearn the strategy.
Connect battery ground cable.
Check operation of lock cylinder.

[The Ric]

hey if its the rod, check the tech write-up section. there is an awesome write up on this

[dougc767]

Yes, thats the one I referenced. However, when I ordered the parts the company sent directions as well, but their's were for a short cut that entailed altering the rod. Like I said earlier, it wasn't the correct way to fix it, but I did it anyway and will be regretting it sooner or later.

[4NIC8R]

Going to necro here and ask a similar question; lock, rod, or switch,

I can turn the key in the lock and it will go into the "run" position and the lights come on, but no start. It does not spring back and there are no indents for each key postion, just turns. The lock position works and will lock the wheel.

[4NIC8R]

....bump

Anyone? A little help would be appreciated before I start tearing it apart.

[80bronc]

Originally Posted by miesk5

yo,

Actuator Rod Pics (Upper & Lower); 92-96 w/Ford Part Numbers
Source: by http://www.steeringcolumnservices.co...-actuators.php
Actuator (upper)
This white plastic ignition actuator gear with teeth often breaks prevents you from starting or shutting off the vehicle with the ignition key. The ignition rack actuator failure if often misdiagnosed as a ignition lock or ignition switch problem.


Actuator (lower)
OEM # F2DZ 3E723 A
Fits Makes: Ford Cars & Trucks
Fits Years: 1992-2008
$28.63
This white plastic ignition actuator is the lower actuator on most Ford cars and trucks. This piece is actually what joins with the ignition switch to start the car. It is pushed by the ignition lock cyliner and upper rack gear.
Our Part # RACK06
OEM # F0DZ 3E715 A
Fits Makes: Ford Cars & Trucks
Fits Years: 1992-2008
$32.08

Removal in a 95 w/Tilt; "...Symptoms of the problem before tearing into the steering column was that I could start the truck, but not shut it off. The key was easily turned without any “normal” resistance/spring to it and all accessories had power with the key in any position. The rest is pretty simple though. All reverse of installation..."
Source: by KC200787 at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181708

Definately sounds like the problem your having, I had a similar issue on my truck

[dougc767]

It's that plastic actuator rod that's behind the ignition tumbler (where you put the key in), it connects to another plastic piece deep inside the steering column. I'm not a pro mechanic, but it was doable to replace. Like I mentioned earlier, I should've replaced it correctly instead of the shortcut way that the instructions led me into. I think I bought the replacement from "Ignition Actuators" or something like that, and they included the shortcut instructions. It's still working fine for the time being, but not so sure for the long haul. Be careful with that damn tilt spring! Wear eye protection and teach that thing lesson! I know a few curse words, but my wife never heard so many outside the bedroom. :) Good luck, you can do it!

[4NIC8R]

Thanks!