Brake Rotors & Pads

[WuTang]

I'm a real stickler about using Motorcraft parts and believe in fixing something once, with quality parts, so I don't have to go in and do it again anytime soon.
I'm getting a vibration when coming to a stop from the front end and I had a friend take a look and he said that my rotors are warped and recommends replacing them.
The pads are worn and should be replaced as well as far as I can tell, don't get the tell-tale squeeling yet, but I want to replace them before it gets to that point.

Now, to my actual question, Would it be worth it to spend the extra money on the Motorcraft rotors (Found them for $81 + free shipping) or go with another brand for about $20 or so less a rotor? If so, what are good brands to go with?
What about brands for brake pads?
Do the calipers usually need to be replaced when the rotors get warped or no?

Thank you in advance

[Steve83]

Originally Posted by WuTang

Would it be worth it to spend the extra money on the Motorcraft rotors (Found them for $81 + free shipping) or go with another brand for about $20 or so less a rotor?

Are they MADE IN USA? If not, it's probably not worth a dime extra.

Originally Posted by WuTang

If so, what are good brands to go with?

Anything MADE IN USA, if possible. If not, a US brand, like Wagner or Bendix.

Originally Posted by WuTang

What about brands for brake pads?

Same.

Originally Posted by WuTang

Do the calipers usually need to be replaced when the rotors get warped or no?

I've never replaced a caliper for any reason, other than that one caliper being stuck. The LESS you open the hydraulic system, the better. Click this & read the captions:

[Shadofax]

Originally Posted by Steve83

Are they MADE IN USA? If not, it's probably not worth a dime extra.Anything MADE IN USA, if possible. If not, a US brand, like Wagner or Bendix.Same.I've never replaced a caliper for any reason, other than that one caliper being stuck. The LESS you open the hydraulic system, the better. Click this & read the captions:

well, except I'm a believer in doing a brake bleed before your fluid is black like so many people seem to do. But I also agree that warped rotors should not affect the calipers once you have a new rotor on there.

Pads, I use the wagner thermo quiet, long lasting, no noise, minor brake dust, reasonably priced.

[TheUnforgiven]

thermoquiets are this professional's choice.

and unless you want to spend $80 for a made in usa rotor just use the cheapest rotor you can find. they are all the same. i've always used the wearever line from advance, for about 6 years, and i've had THREE bad rotors. I've purchased probably over 100 from them. i'd say that's pretty good for chinese pieces of crap.

[Ewgoetz]

Are the rotors below thickness req to have cut?

[OhNoBronco85]

Mine too are warped. I can feel it in the wheel. I was looking at these from JBG. Has anyone had experience with slotted/drilled rotors? Are they worth the money?
Link to rotors: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...otor-left.html

[WuTang]

Originally Posted by Steve83

Are they MADE IN USA? If not, it's probably not worth a dime extra.Anything MADE IN USA, if possible. If not, a US brand, like Wagner or Bendix.Same.I've never replaced a caliper for any reason, other than that one caliper being stuck. The LESS you open the hydraulic system, the better. Click this & read the captions:

Awesome, thank you :)

Originally Posted by Shadofax

well, except I'm a believer in doing a brake bleed before your fluid is black like so many people seem to do. But I also agree that warped rotors should not affect the calipers once you have a new rotor on there.

Pads, I use the wagner thermo quiet, long lasting, no noise, minor brake dust, reasonably priced.

One of my biggest concerns is getting an aftermarket part that doesn't fit or has differences from the OEM. Is this a problem with rotors or are they kinda all the same in that sense?

[TheUnforgiven]

they're all the damn same for the most part. i wouldn't waste my time cutting them. all that does is take away steel which causes them to warp faster the next time. i like to cut rotors if i could do it for free (when i worked for a shop). but if you'd have to pay to get them cut, not really worth it.

[Shadofax]

Originally Posted by WuTang

Awesome, thank you :)



One of my biggest concerns is getting an aftermarket part that doesn't fit or has differences from the OEM. Is this a problem with rotors or are they kinda all the same in that sense?

A bronco rotor should not be an issue. If it's meant for your model year, and they give you the correct part number it won't be an issue. Keep in mind if you have a later bronco with ABS, it has the toner ring to deal with (pull off, press on). I no longer have those issues but remember the days.

Personally though, I disagree with going cheap on rotors, don't buy Chinese if you can afford it. Buy a more quality piece. If you get on the brakes a lot and heat them up, a good rotor should never cause you an issue. It also would likely last longer and be able to be turned at least once before being discarded.

[TheUnforgiven]

Originally Posted by Shadofax

Personally though, I disagree with going cheap on rotors, don't buy Chinese if you can afford it. Buy a more quality piece. If you get on the brakes a lot and heat them up, a good rotor should never cause you an issue. It also would likely last longer and be able to be turned at least once before being discarded.

they pretty much all can at least once, put $20 silver pads on it and probably not. but the cost vs. benefit of cutting them just isn't there if you gotta pay a shop time to cut them.

Maybe you guys have $80/rotor to piss away for it to be "made in the USA'' but i sure as hell don't. All the "standard" rotors are made over in china anyhow so there's no real advantage to what brand you buy anymore. Wanna save real money? buy it on amazon. its ridiculous the amount of mark-up the parts places put on this stuff.

[WuTang]

Originally Posted by Shadofax

A bronco rotor should not be an issue. If it's meant for your model year, and they give you the correct part number it won't be an issue. Keep in mind if you have a later bronco with ABS, it has the toner ring to deal with (pull off, press on). I no longer have those issues but remember the days.

Personally though, I disagree with going cheap on rotors, don't buy Chinese if you can afford it. Buy a more quality piece. If you get on the brakes a lot and heat them up, a good rotor should never cause you an issue. It also would likely last longer and be able to be turned at least once before being discarded.

It's actually on my 2WD '93 F-150, I figured it'd be similar enough. My Bronco does have ABS though :)

Any brands you'd suggest? I'd like to avoid spending the money if it isn't crucial on the Motorcraft, but I want quality.

[TheUnforgiven]

even better, those rotors are MUCH easier to change. here's a raybestos for $50. i don't know what advance is for their wearever line for this truck. i don't feel like checking.

http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-6032...1&s=automotive

[Steve83]

Originally Posted by Shadofax

well, except I'm a believer in doing a brake bleed before your fluid is black...

Ford recommends doing that from the reservoir; not from the wheel cylinders. It's not particularly easy on the '87-96 reservoir, but it can be done, withOUT the risk of introducing air into the lines.

Originally Posted by OhNoBronco85

...slotted/drilled rotors? Are they worth the money?

Wilwood says they're NOT worth the money - they're purely cosmetic. Actually, they provide WORSE braking performance & durability because they have less working surface area, less mass, and are effectively rougher on the friction material.

Originally Posted by TheUnforgiven

...causes them to warp faster...

A thin rotor is no more likely to warp than a thick one (within the specified range); what causes them to warp INSTANTLY (thin or thick, US or Chinese) is improper lug nut tightening, &/or leaving $#!+ all over the WMS.

.

[WuTang]

This is why I love you guys. I posted this on an F150 Forum, yesterday and still haven't received a response.
Anything else I should know before tearing into them?
This video makes it look so easy...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZRmDeLDbtQ

[TheUnforgiven]

make sure your parts house has fresh bearings/seals in stock in case you need them. inspect the bearings closely for brinelling, spalling, or discoloration. if you see any of those or other symptoms (google it) replace them. riding on crap bearings is nothing to bear with.

and that video is correct, it IS that easy! just don't drop the inner bearing/seal on the ground like that guy did! i'd recommend you use a good synthetic grease to grease the bearings with.

[GetBent4x4]

There are no more made in usa rotors. very few made in canada. So not much to worry about there.

Me? I buy the cheapest pads money can buy. Paid $6 a box for some off rockauto. thread On newer vehicles I've always used ceramic pads. Longer pad life, no dust ruining my clean wheels. Alot of times in the Spring (as in the season) brake pad manufactures will do rebates.

Oh and make sure your wheels bearing are good and tight if not they will wear the pad crooked. I found that out a couple months ago. Thread

[TheUnforgiven]

cheap pads suck ass getbent. been there done that once. i didn't realize how BAD they really were until i put a trailer on the back of the car. i swapped everything out shortly after that endeavor.

[4DI2D]

If your Bronco is two wheel drive then the change over would be that easy!
Never do a quikie brake job with cheap parts unless you like bumpers and trunk lids in your engine compartment. I've used Raybestos parts for over 40 years and have never had a problem or complaint.

By the way, Steve83, just how do you bleed the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir?????

[Steve83]

If you go back & look at what I quoted, I wasn't talking so much about bleeding air out of the lines as "black fluid". But both can be done by compressing the wheel cylinders to drive any air & most of old fluid to the reservoir, and then removing it with a squeeze bulb. It's called "reverse bleeding". If you know you're gonna open the rear hydraulics, you first disconnect the shoes & pump the cylinders out (using a clamp, etc., to keep them from hyperextending) so you have some fluid to work with later. It's my preferred method, not only from reading Ford TSBs about them NOT paying warranty time for techs who open the bleeders for pad changes, but also from working on Land Rovers; some of which have the most complicated brake bleeding procedure ever concocted by a psycho limey. It has like 47 steps & requires 3 skilled technicians. We did our best to AVOID it.

[4NIC8R]

Originally Posted by OhNoBronco85

Mine too are warped. I can feel it in the wheel. I was looking at these from JBG. Has anyone had experience with slotted/drilled rotors? Are they worth the money?
Link to rotors: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...otor-left.html

Stay away from cross-drilled rotors!

Cross drilling allows them to cool faster and was originally made for racing. Racing is NOT Heavy Duty. Race parts were made for their application, which normally was ONE race. Cross drilled rotors are prone to cracking between holes, have longer stopping distance due to their reduced surface area, and are more expensive.

Unless you drag or street race your Bronco.. they will only hurt you.
(if you do an autocross with your bronc, I'd like a youtube link )