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Old 10-28-2012, 08:09 PM   #1
CWbronco
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Misfire/Stumbling

It's getting worse now so I'm coming to you guys for help.

I can't replicate it so I can't pinpoint where it's happening particularly. It's going at idle, but only sometimes. Under load going up a hill, but again only sometimes. When I punch it, it will bog down almost all the way to the point where it almost stalls, but only sometimes..

Last mod I did was my injector swap. Freshly rebuild EV6's. They all clicked right and were working when I put them in. Worked fine for a few weeks until about 2 days ago.

Pulled codes and I got..

KOEO 522O 552O 113C 543C

KOER 311R 538R 632R
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:38 PM   #2
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Any thoughts?
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:41 PM   #3
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Went out to move the truck away from trees (storm) and it won't start. No click, no crank, nothing. Pouring so I didn't try and find out why. But it's now a symptom.
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Old 10-30-2012, 05:40 PM   #4
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Started today. Warmed it up for codes. Got TAB solenoid fault as a new code, and a few continuous that I've had for a while. Unfortunately I don't have my vac gauge with me to try and narrow that down, I think it's a vac problem though. Which one is the TAB? And is there a way to disconnect it in the mean time? Ill fix this and go from there if I have more problems.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:15 PM   #5
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i have 3 solenoids on mine. 1 has tube to egr valve, 2 has tube to bypass valve, and 3 has tube to diverter valve. right? sorry, eating ribs now.

Done with dinner : I believe the by pass valve is the one on the backside of the motor. That is how it is on mine anyway. You can trace the vaccum tube to that valve, or from the solenoid to that valve anyway. TAD is thermactor air divertor. TAB is Thermactor air bypass. Right?
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I can see the nuts now , the rod was in the way before . Thanks ,Bill
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:14 AM   #6
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yo,
TAD, TAB Location pic in a 90 5.8 - same for your year

Source: by SeattleFSB ( Thermactor Air Diverter Solenoid (TAD, AIRD, AM2) w/Yellow vacuum line & Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid (TAB, AIRB, AM1)w/Pink vacuum line; miesk5 Note; same location as in my 96 5.0


DTC 311, 312, 313 & 314; "...311 and 314 indicate the Secondary Air Injection system is inoperative. DTC 312 indicates that Secondary Air is misdirected. DTC 313 indicates that Secondary Air is not being bypassed when requested. Possible causes: Visually inspect vacuum lines for disconnects in the AIR system. Visually inspect for proper vacuum line routing. Refer to VECI decal. Visually inspect Air Pump for broken or loose Air Pump Belt. Refer to Section 13A for adjustment/replacement..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Jim



AIR Bypass (AIRB) & AIR Diverter (AIRD) Valve (Combination) pic in a 94; pic #1

pics #2 & 3; click Next


Check Valve Location pic in a 94 behind manifold; It is broken
Source: by weasel-like animal at http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6...3b21b44d_z.jpg
by 94blkbronco



DTC 522 & 654 indicate the gear selector was not in Park during Self-Test


DTC 113 The sensor signal is greater then the Self Test max volt of 4.6 or higher - "...indicates that the corresponding sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum. The maximum for ECT and IAT sensors is 4.6 volts. Possible causes: Open in harness (IAT or ECT), Faulty connection, Faulty sensor, Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB

DTC 543 Pin-Point Test & Overview; indicates a fuel pump secondary circuit failure between the B(+) supply and the FPM connection to the power-to-pump circuit

Wiring Diagram in a 94 from EVTM, partial; from Maxi Fuse U in Power Distribution Box (PDB) through PCM Power Relay Coil & Maxi Fuse O in PDB through FP Relay to Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch (IFS)
Source: by Mikey350 at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/874100

Wiring Diagram in a 95; from Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch (IFS)
Source: by SeattleFSB



DTC 538 Insufficient RPM change during dynamic response test. "...This is another code generated when the dynamic response or "goose" test as some refer to it is not performed during the KOER test. The KOER test requires that after a certain length of time the throttle be opened to bring the idle above 2000 rpm for a short period of time. If the dynamic response test is not performed or the rpm's do not peak ABOVE 2000 rpm's this code will be generated. (Computer needs to compare changes in sensor readings at different RPM's to determine system operation and efficiency)..."
Source: by miesk5

DTC 632 O/D Cancel switch, Overdrive cancel switch did not change state during KOER; is possibly the result of the test being done incorrectly. When you do a KOER test, you need to do a Dynamic Response Check is used to verify operation of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Mass Air Flow (MAF), Manifold Absolute Pressure(MAP), and Knock Sensor (KS) during a brief wide open throttle condition. The famed "Goose test"


DTC 552 = Secondary air injection bypass (AIRB) circuit failure KOEO
Possible causes for this fault are:

• AIRB/AIRD circuit(s) shorted or open.
• Fault in solenoid or PCM.

Disconnect both solenoid connectors. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between VPWR terminal of wiring harness connector and battery ground for both solenoids. If either voltage reading is less than 10.5 volts, repair wiring harness open circuit, and repeat QUICK TEST. If both readings are 10.5 volts or more, go to step 9).

9)Measure Solenoid Resistance :
Turn ignition off. Leave solenoid connectors disconnected. Measure resistance of both solenoids. If either reading is not 50-100 ohms, replace solenoid assembly and repeat QUICK TEST. If both readings are 50-100 ohms, go to step 10).
NOTE for Breakout Box breakout box, go to the EEC CONNECTOR pin instead

10) Check Circuit Continuity :
Leave ignition off. Disconnect PCM 60-pin connector. Inspect terminals, and repair if damaged. Install EEC-IV Breakout Box (T83L-50-EEC-IV), leaving PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between AIRB test pin and AIRB terminal at wiring harness connector. Measure resistance between AIRD test pin and AIRD terminal at wiring harness connector. If either reading is 5 ohms or more, repair open circuit and repeat QUICK TEST. If both readings are less than 5 ohms, go to step 11).

11) Check For Short To Ground :
Leave ignition off and solenoids disconnected. Measure resistance between test pin No. 51 and test pins No. 40, 46 and 60 at breakout box. Measure resistance between test pin No. 11 and test pins No. 40, 46 and 60. If any reading is less than 10,000 ohms, repair short to ground and repeat QUICK TEST. If all readings are 10,000 ohms or more, go to step 12).

12) Check For Short To Power Circuit :
Turn ignition off. Measure resistance between test pin No. 51 and test pins No. 37 and 57 at break-out box. Measure resistance between test pin No. 11 and test pins No. 37 and 57 at breakout box. If any resistance is less than 10,000 ohms, repair short to power and repeat QUICK TEST. If code is repeated, replace PCM. If all resistances are 10,000 ohms or more, replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST.

EEC IV Connector Pin Depiction Pic by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
PIN LEGEND
by Ryan M (Fireguy50)


Wiring Diagram in a 94 from EVTM
by Mikey350


Voltage Reference (VREF) is a conditioned regulated constant 5v DC power source supplied by the PCM.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:31 PM   #7
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Miesk5 has a wealth of information doesn't he? Thanks for proving me right about the TAB description Miesk5. I'd think CW has some vaccum issues, or the by pass valve/tube rusted through.
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I can see the nuts now , the rod was in the way before . Thanks ,Bill
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:34 PM   #8
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Miesk, thanks again. And Dave you were right. I think the TAB connector wiggled itself loose just enough for it to not work. I noticed it when I was pulling the harness apart to check the resistance, etc. Everything checked out so I ran the tests again and got pass codes. Cleared all the continuous ones for now, but apparently it's fine.

Hopefully that did it. When I started the truck this morning it ran for a second and stumbled really bad and stalled. So with any luck, my problems are solved.
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Old 11-01-2012, 06:51 PM   #9
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Definately check for vaccum leaks in the emission system, thermactor etc.
then
If it runs for a short moment then stalls I would test psi on the FPR= fuel pressure regulator located up top on the fuel rail towards the back.....37 psi engine off cranking and 40 psi engine running with the vaccum line disconnected but there are no codes for FPR it's a vaccum issue http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ure+regulator+
then
It also wouldn't hurt to check/test the ECT = engine cooling temp sensor, a fuel manager at cold start and normal operation, any issues with it could prevent the engine from starting, running rich etc.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...e+temp+sensor+
then
Clean your IAC = idle air control "valve part" only with TB cleaner located on the right side of the throttle body which can improve idle, make sure the gasket is in good condition.


Good Luck ~
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Old 11-03-2012, 04:33 PM   #10
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Still having problem so ill be testing more stuff soon. When it stumbles the worst it smells very heavily of fuel, which leads me to believe that maybe it is a spark issue? Again I'm having problems all the time, whether its cold or hot. I'm thinking maybe a semi defective coil? I went all over the vac stuff and didn't find a problem, ill pull codes again today to see if there is anything new.


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Old 11-03-2012, 05:26 PM   #11
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Still having problem so ill be testing more stuff soon. When it stumbles the worst it smells very heavily of fuel, which leads me to believe that maybe it is a spark issue? Again I'm having problems all the time, whether its cold or hot. I'm thinking maybe a semi defective coil? I went all over the vac stuff and didn't find a problem, ill pull codes again today to see if there is anything new.


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pull vaccum line on fuel pressure regulator. if it smells like gas replace it. it'll flood your cyclinders with gas, and also smell like rotten eggs when it gets really bad.
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I can see the nuts now , the rod was in the way before . Thanks ,Bill
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:53 PM   #12
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pull vaccum line on fuel pressure regulator. if it smells like gas replace it. it'll flood your cyclinders with gas, and also smell like rotten eggs when it gets really bad.
Pulled that line and smelled it, got just a very faint smell of gas. Not sure if that's enough to do it in.

I also checked the wires for the ECT, I've accidentally pulled that before and realized it wouldn't start when it was hot. It will start this time, just cranks a lot.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:00 AM   #13
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Pulled that line and smelled it, got just a very faint smell of gas. Not sure if that's enough to do it in..
Yo CW, there should be No gas aroma; usually FPR diaiphram ruptures and then you'll see gas or have the aroma.

Pull a few plugs
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:54 AM   #14
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Yo CW, there should be No gas aroma; usually FPR diaiphram ruptures and then you'll see gas or have the aroma.

Pull a few plugs
Okay I'll put another one in, hopefully that ends up being the problem.

This morning I went out to start it to go to work and it will crank but not fire. One will fire every few rotations or so and kind of stumble, but won't start. Have up after a few times and when I got out of the truck the fuel smell was very strong.

Pull a few plugs for gas smell?


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Old 11-04-2012, 01:25 PM   #15
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Did some more reading, going to try and check the fuel pressure regulator, ECT, ACT, and o2 wiring. I have an exhaust leak on the header gasket on the drivers side, I read that it could be possible the o2 is reading lean because of the leak. Possible? I have to fix the leak anyway.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:12 PM   #16
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FYI: I recently read here somewhere the Denso O2 is supposed to be a better product then the Bosch, tech explanation to long but the general idea is Bosch has a tendancy to run rich by design.....your call.

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Old 11-05-2012, 02:52 PM   #17
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FYI: I recently read here somewhere the Denso O2 is supposed to be a better product then the Bosch, tech explanation to long but the general idea is Bosch has a tendancy to run rich by design.....your call.

Good Luck ~
Thanks for the tip, hopefully i don't have to replace it. Going to get the gasket replaced first and go from there.


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Old 11-05-2012, 03:20 PM   #18
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When was the last time the distributor cap was replaced? It's not going to hurt anything for you to pop the cap off and check to see how it looks underneath.
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Old 11-05-2012, 05:51 PM   #19
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When was the last time the distributor cap was replaced? It's not going to hurt anything for you to pop the cap off and check to see how it looks underneath.
I did a 6L tune about 3 months ago. New cap, rotor, coil, wires and plugs.


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Old 11-05-2012, 10:46 PM   #20
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howd the plugs look? was the ceramic cracked or were the electrodes wet?
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