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Old 10-31-2012, 02:56 PM   #1
Daduze2
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Dies when put into gear w/video (warm blooded 351M)

1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, new C6 rebuild, 351M with Xtreme Energy Comp Cam Kit, Holley Truck Avenger 670CFM.

I have a problem here folks.

This was a problem before all this work of the engine and tranny. I was hoping the rebuild on the tranny would fix it.


I can start my bronco......let it run for 3 or 4 minutes (idling at 1100 RPM)......put my foot on the brake, put it in Drive and that will kill it!

I have to put one foot on the brake and one foot on the gas pushing it up to about 1750RPM before I can put it in gear.

When I come to complete stops I need to feather the gas to keep it running on the street usually. Even when warm.

Idle is set at about 1000RPM.....I love the sound of the engine idling at 800RPM! Wish I could pull up to stops and have it thumping at 800RPM and not worry about it dying.

Here is a video of it warming up:
http://youtu.be/XCa5G5UXfTg

....you can see me step on the brake, and hear me put it in drive. The truck jumps a bit and then dies. 0:31 and at 2:30 I try it a few times....around 2:53 I get it into Neutral and it idles fine but then at 3:21 I put it back to Park get pissed and try waking up the neighbors. With the feather method, Drive will jump and want to die for about 15 seconds and then I can let my foot off the gas usually and it will idle in drive at a stop. (1000RPM)

I guess my questions are, as follows:

What should a 351M idle speed be set at with the mods I have? (would it be odd to push the idle to 1350-1500 range?)

Are there any items to look at to help cure a warm blooded engine? Could it be vacuum? Could it be Jets in the carb? Could it be the torque converter? Not sure what the job of the torque converter is but I know with some cam kits they recommend changing the torque converter.

Thanks for any insight. For now I will have to let it warm for 10 minutes or so until I actually see the gauge move up to normal operating range. Feather it here and there when needed. (when putting it into gear and at stops)

I hate wasting gas on the 10 minute warm ups!!!!
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:04 PM   #2
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do you have the vacuum modulator connected to the engine?
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:37 PM   #3
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Check for vacuum leaks, around carb,carb base,intake gaskets,vacuum lines,brake booster fix if found,make sure timing is correct, may need to find different port on carb for vacuum advance of the dist., hook up vacuum gauge to a direct port and adjust carb mixtures and idle setting as well
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:50 PM   #4
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Jopes.....you have been answering questions for me since day one on here. Thanks for all of your suggestions. Not sure on the vacuum modulator I will look into it and find out. Where is that located? Got a picture of one?

what is the best way to check for vacuum leaks 472SCJ? I know my intake is leaking oil in the front and the rear.....a very small amount but it is leaking.

Do I just listen and feel around with my hand for vacuum around the carb and intake? Some of the intake ports are plugged and other accessories coming off like the brake booster may be connected redneck style. I guess I need to go through it with a fine tooth comb. I hate to have to pull off the intake and redo the valley pan and intake install. Any easy fixes for the intake leaks?

Does sound awesome when it is running tho, right???? I love it!
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:09 PM   #5
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Sure does sound good when it's idling good.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:16 PM   #6
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the modulator if memory is right is on the trans.

as for intake fixed, remove and use a new gasket.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:37 PM   #7
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Spray a little starting fluid around the hoses and intake to see if the idle goes up.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:59 PM   #8
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Electric choke got power? Mine was doing that before I hooked it up.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:04 AM   #9
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Quote:
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Spray a little starting fluid around the hoses and intake to see if the idle goes up.
use carb cleaner, that way if you have a bad sparkplug wire it won't catch fire, correct spray it where there might be a leak and listen for change in rpm
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:29 PM   #10
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Electric Choke is hooked up right. Just had the mechanic do that last week. I had it to the alternator like most searches said on here but that was pushing constant power from the battery even when the ignition was in the off position. The mechanic wired it though the positive side of the coil like I read not to do, but it is working. The mechanic said the way I had it wired the carb would close when it got warm. So I don't know what is correct.

I will try the carb cleaner trick. See what I get. Thanks.

The vacuum modulator is hooked up....see photo below.

Found out I have a missing grommet at the PCV line. Not sure if that would effect anything. I have heard of engines not running unless that is plugged in.


No clamp on the tranny soft line at the connection....could that be a problem? It is finger loose. I don't think it ever had a clamp tho.


Here is another vacuum fitting....I didnt have anything to plug into it.....should I?
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:10 PM   #11
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should fix the missing grommet to get good seal, tranny line is fine like it is, fitting on thermostat no big deal there, as long as you turn key off, you should not have any power going to electric choke
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:41 PM   #12
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Well I replaced the entire PCV / breather assembly....hose and all. Couldn't find a grommet that would fit at Autozone. I found the grommet that fit at the valve cover but not the smaller one at the hose connection. Oh well. $6.99 for the complete assembly.

Bought some new bulbs for my reverse lights too (to get up to the $20 for a point at Autozone). They never worked from day one. Now they are working.

I have not started the Bronco yet to see if the grommet helped at all....my guess is no. I need to go out and get some carb cleaner to investigate this possible vacuum leak!

I also bought a new fuel filter (clear one this time) and I will change that out too.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:00 PM   #13
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how many miles on the spark plugs?

And what do they look like?
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:08 PM   #14
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Plugs are brand new......I'll take one out and look at it.

30 miles on these.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:39 PM   #15
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Ok I dont use carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks I use my old propane torch for pluming ..(soldering ) open the valve so just the gas comes out and check around carb and vacuum lines if idle goes up bingo u found the leak .. Now you said u rebuilt the tranny ... it could be torq lock up ..if the solenoid is not working right .. good luck
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:53 PM   #16
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Ok man....you've got some balls to use propane! I do have an old soldering tank with some fuel left in it though.

So when I do find a leak. What would be a way to fix it? Let say there is a leak at a port....or a leak at the carb spacer?
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:56 PM   #17
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using a propane torch in that way is just fine.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:58 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daduze2 View Post
Xtreme Energy Comp Cam Kit,
part number of said kit?
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:01 PM   #19
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LOL been doing it that way for yrs ,,, no big boom yet ,,, once you find the leak then you fix it ,. if its a runner on ur intake .. at the gasket .. then you replace the gasket .. if its a vacuum line .. replace the line carb spacer .. new gasket or .. in the past I made my own gasket with cardboard and gasket maker ... hope this helps ..
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:03 PM   #20
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what is your base ignition timing?

has the harmonic balancer spun?
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