89 5.0L engine wiring diagram

[wrenchhead427]

Working on a friend of mines 89 5.0L and I have been searching the forums and can't find a schematic for the coolant sensor wire color and the oil sending unit wire color. I am sure steve83 has it on has site but I cant figure out how to get around to it, can someone direct me here a little bit, Thanks guys.

[Steve83]

You can't figure out how to get TO my pictures, or you can't figure out how to find the relevant ones? Click my black Bronco in my signature & scroll through the album list to find the MOST-applicable one. If you don't find what you need there, try another album.

Almost everything related to gauges is in this album:



But Ford always uses R/W for temperature & W/R for oil pressure. Tell your friend to buy a red-cover Haynes:

[wrenchhead427]

Thank you Steve! I couldn't find a link to take me to the info you have in all those folders listed as when It did after I clicked on the black bronco in your sig. That is what I was looking for, I was unsure of the navigatrion means to reach the info, thank you. I tried so many searches but didn't ever see something that I recognized.

[jtabaka]

do you know where the wires go that come off the tps on the same engine? or have a diagram for that. i am new to the site, but it sounds like you got all the diagrams. i keep getting a code 77 from the KOER test, even though i just replaced my TPS

[wrenchhead427]

Here is a diagram I found in Steve83's registry, hopefully it will help you with your TPS issues. I think code 77 is a goose test code correct?

As for my wiring problems, I have searched for the oil pressure sending unit wire, temp sensor (single wire) wire and the Tachometer wire going into the coil and no luck, I'm stuck. I need some help. I have a Yellow/Red stub sticking out of my loom close to the #5 Injector and a White/ "dotted or dashed" Red wire coming out of the loom above the drivers frame rail in the Oil Pressure sending unit area. There is also a veru small stub of a red wire in the same area. I took a pic also of the four main harnesses that I was hoping to see the R/W and W/R wires I'm looking for in but they are not in the bundles. As for the Tach wire, I see no DG/Y wires which from what I have found on the site is what I'm looking for.... Still working on the Vacuum lines and a couple funky grounds that just don't look right. I have provided some pictures of my dealings with the said items, Thanks!

[wrenchhead427]

Sorry about the last photo, thats an engine I gotta build tomorrow. I also meant to comment on the White- Dashed Red wire, it looks to go the rearmost solenoid on top of the manifold, same color scheme. Thanks.

[Steve83]

Are you reading what you're typing?

Originally Posted by wrenchhead427

...I have searched for the oil pressure sending unit wire, temp sensor (single wire) wire and the Tachometer wire going into the coil and no luck... I have ...a White/ "dotted or dashed" Red wire coming out of the loom above the drivers frame rail in the Oil Pressure sending unit area. There is also a veru small stub of a red wire in the same area.

You say you can't find the R/W or W/R wires, and the next thing you say is that you have a W/R wire and a R wire. Did you peel back the harness wrap to see if there's a W stripe on that R wire?

Originally Posted by wrenchhead427

I see no DG/Y wires...

That's odd - I see one at least 4x in 3 of your pics. Behind the LHR compressor bolt right next to that stub of a R wire, and again going into the Br connector.

But based on the colors of the burned, frayed, exposed wires going to that coil & RFI capacitor, I don't think the DG/Y is gonna be your tach feed.

Originally Posted by jtabaka

i am new to the site...

Start by reading this caption, filling in your profile, and creating a signature with your truck's details:



You already know how to find my diagrams album, so look through it. If you still can't find what you need, search for old threads similar to your issue, and read them. If that doesn't solve it, start your own thread.

[wrenchhead427]

I apologize, I do not mean to be confusing. I am looking for a Red wire with a white tracer - R/W , or a White wire with a red tracer - W/R for the oil pressure sending unit wire. The White wire i am speaking of does not have a solid red tracer, it has a broken red tracer (hope that makes sense). I have examined the red wire stub and it is a red wire, no white tracer.

Again i am sorry for not being clear, I meant to say that I am not seeing a DG/Y wire any where in the neighborhood of the coil. I am looking for a DG/Y based on this diagram I found on the site, first picture below. The diagram I found in your pictures also implied that it would be a DG/Y wire.

This bronco has a replacement Vin tag in the door jamb and no factory sticker. The replacement tag VIN matches the dash VIN so I am assuming it is indeed an 89, however the front clip is rounded, unlike my semi square 90 Bronco. Maybe it is a newer truck, I will go back and look in your pictures for a diagram covering the newer vehicles. thanks

[wrenchhead427]

okay I made some progress this morning with a fresh mind and daylight. The loom with the gray terminal end 8 pin that goes to the dizzy and coil I believe to be from a different vehicle possibly. I think this would account for the different color wiring going to the coil. On my 90 the O/P and W/T are also in this loom so I am starting to see why I can't find R/W and W/R. Anyone have an idea of what ford vehicle had R/G going to the coil along with a T/Y as in my above pics?

[Steve83]

It doesn't matter. Find the wires at your instrument cluster going to those gauges, and note their colors. Find them at the big round firewall connector, and note their positions. Find them on the other side (in the engine bay), and note their colors. Find them at the engine connectors and note any change in color. Follow them thru the harness to the engine or cut ends.

And it doesn't matter if the tracer is broken, solid, dotted, or anything else - W/R is W/R is W/R.

[wrenchhead427]

Alright, so I have hooked up my oil pressure wire to the gauge, coolant temp sensor to the stock gauge and Tach wire. Coolant is good to go, aftermarket gauge installed also and the two are reading the same. Now my first new problem, my oil pressure is pegged out on HIGH. I disconnected the sender wire from the sender and took a voltage reading with key on, 5.5-6v . I shut the key off and checked for continuity between wire terminal end and ground and I'm around 41k ohms. Trying to find refrences for help. Should I have continuity or should it be open? I was thinking open but what do I know.


The second new problem is the Tachometer is jumpy, reads fairly correct at idle but jumps at the first small rpm increase to 3-4K and is all over the place.

Took it for a test drive and no speedometer...... lots a problems, crawled underneath and speedo cable is hanging by frame rail, next to the transfercase plug.....which is disconnected Hey if your gonna start ripping crap apart go for it I guess!!! So my saga continues, oh yeah I almost forgot, the brand new tranny wont shift out of first!!!! LOVIN IT

[Steve83]

Originally Posted by wrenchhead427

I was thinking open but what do I know.

If you'd click the first link I posted, and read the first caption, you'd know everything about those gauges.

[wrenchhead427]

Steve's the man, had to say it. I read what you told me and clicked farther into the sub pictures this time to find the additional info I missed the first time I went through that section, sorry again I don't mean to be a pain or waste your time. So now that I have a basic working knowledge of the Oil Pressure gauge, I have a hypothetical question because I don't truley understand the mechanical functioning of the magnetic's and all. If you installed a jumper wire across the resistor, wherever that may be, while you still had the original sender in the block, what would the gauge do when you started the motor?

[wrenchhead427]

Originally Posted by miesk5

On the other hand, installing the open/closed switch on a vehicle that incorporates the conventional oil pressure gauge circuit will result in a pegged gauge needle after starting the engine. Sometimes you can tell that you need a switch instead of the variable resistive sending unit by the presence of the in-line resistor a few inches from the switch connector. This is not a good rule of thumb though, since many vehicles have the fixed resistor on the back of the cluster, and some of the digital dashes have that circuit built into the cluster. To determine what style circuit you have, simply ground the sending unit wire with the key on. If the gauge reads exactly half-scale, you can be fairly sure you need a switch-style sender. If you ground the sender wire and the gauge pegs, a variable resistor-style sender is needed..."

,

This makes sense to me, My gauge is pegged when I ground it out or hook it up. I believe the resistor must have been in the factory loom that someone removed and replaced with the loom that is lacking the R/W and W/R, hence the confusion. Sweet! Hope the quote comes out okay, not really sure how to do it but I tried.

[Steve83]

There are SEVERAL pics in that album showing the resistor on the back of the cluster.

[miesk5]

yo,
I have some 89 wiring diagram Links in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=143
go there for hot Links to;
Ignition Wiring Diagrams in an 89 from Ford EVTM
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Ignition, Emission, EFI, Sensors, Fuel Level Sender & Pump, etc. in Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Partial, Wiring Diagrams in an 89 by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at fullsizebronco.com

Oxygen (O2) Sensor Wiring Diagram in an 89 5.0, 5.8 & 7.5. Diagram #2
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

EEC Ground Location pic in an 89 by Will H (kf4amu, The Beast) at fullsizebronco.com

EEC Power Relay Wiring Diagram in an 89
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at fullsizebronco.com

EEC Power Relay Wiring Diagram in an 89 5.0, 5.8 & 7.5
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) Solenoid (AIRB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoid (AIRD) Wiring Diagram in an 89 5.0, 5.8 & 7.5. Diagram #2
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Fuel Pump Relay Wiring Diagram in an 89
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at fullsizebronco.com

Fuel Pump Relay Wiring Diagram in an 89 5.0, 5.8 & 7.5
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums


Fusible Link: A-Brown 18ga to Rear Window Defroster; W-Blue 20g to Fuel Pump Relay; N-Blue 20g to EEC Power Relay; F-Blue 20ga to Trailer; Y-Blue 20ga to N.C.; L-Brown 18ga to ?; M-Brown 18ga to ?;G-Blue 20g to Exterior Lamps, Trailer; P-Blue 20ga to ?; & J-Green 14ga to Alternator as shown in Wiring Diagram in an 89
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

[wrenchhead427]

Originally Posted by Steve83

There are SEVERAL pics in that album showing the resistor on the back of the cluster.

Yes I see those pictures, but mine doesn't have one on it, the bronco I'm working on is an 89, in your commentaries on the pictures you wrote:

"Afterward, a wire must be installed across the oil pressure resistor. I'm not sure where the '87-91 resistor is, so it may be necessary to overlay a wire onto the harness from the switch connector at the engine all the way to the instrument cluster. On '92-96, the resistor is on the instrument cluster film circuit. I normally make the jumper wire long enough to hang down below the cluster so it can be cut if a future owner chooses to convert back to the original switch & have an idiot-gauge again.."

After reading miesk5"s information about the gauges, I believe that the resistor for an 89 is in the wiring loom in the engine compartment. Since the loom has been replaced on this truck with the incorrect loom from another vehicle that does not have a resistor, it seems to be mimicking what would occur with the installation of the jumper wire. I am going to go down to Home Depot today and get the plumbing to install the old school O/P sender and hook it up. If my gauge reads properly then I'll be done with this portion of the repairs, if not I will try and figure out what is wrong from that point, I am not really sure what else to do.

This is my gauge:

[Steve83]

Have you tested the terminals on the back of the cluster that supply power & ground to the oil gauge with the key in RUN? If they're good but a new old sender still doesn't make it work, overlay a new wire from the sender to the gauge. If it still doesn't work, the gauge is bad.

[wrenchhead427]

Hey Steve! thanks for the suggestion! I didn't see it till I did a bunch more to the truck. I just got back from running around today and picking up parts for the bronco. I installed a new VSS, and installed the 1/4" X 4" galvy pipe and coupler, was bummed out that they didn't have a 45 degree fitting to help angle the sender upward and help clear the P/S pump outlet and oil filter but what do you do. It fits but is slightly touching the outlet of the pump, good enough for now. I put the gauges back in, and can't remember if I mentioned the bulb was pulled out for the CEL and fired it up...... we have oil pressure!!! and the Tachometer stopped freaking out on me and is now nice and stable, it rips around fully on start-up but then returns to normal, again good for now. I'm stoked things are coming around!!

Took it for another test drive and was hoping that it would shift but no luck still stuck in first. On a good note I do have a functioning speedometer now, so all the gauges are functioning properly. I had pulled the codes last night after I fixed the CEL and got a few, they remained the same after todays test drive so I'm dealing with them now. codes are as follows:

KOEO -
54 oc ACT indicated -40�C (-40�F)/circuit open
81 o Air Management 2 (AM2/TAD) circuit failure
82 o Air Management 1 (AM1/TAB) circuit failure

CM-
54 oc ACT indicated -40�C (-40�F)/circuit open
29 c Insufficient Vehicle Speed Signal (VSS) input

KOER-
98 r Hard fault present
54 oc ACT indicated -40�C (-40�F)/circuit open

I looked them all up and wrote them down. I am wondering if I should reset the computer and see what comes back or is that a bad idea? Also I understand the KOEO and CM tests but during the KOER test does the computer require any driver input? I didn't seem to find anything indicating it did so I wanted to verify. Also at the end of the KOER test the RPM bucks and then the CEL comes on steady and remains on, is that all normal? Thanks again!

[Steve83]

There is no "reset". And you shouldn't clear adaptions unless there's a DAMNED good reason - just clear the codes. But when you post codes, post the COMPLETE definition for each one so we don't have to re-look them up after you already did. Click this, read the whole caption, and follow the link to the complete procedure: