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Old 11-06-2012, 11:21 AM   #1
Astepek
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Bronco Info: 1987 V8 302 EFI
bronco wont start

Ive got a 1987 302, I have only had it for about a month.
i dont know much about vehicles, only body work and interior. nothing about engines. the truck was running fine otw way to work and to my catering order. when i got back to the truck it would not start..
when i called my dad ( he rebuilt it and sent it to me from portland) he asked me if it had gas. i had put $20 a few days before knowing i drive 5 miles to work and 5 miles back i really didnt believe i was out of gas but the gas guage does seem to dance a bit. so it was a possibility because when i do try and crank it, it does seem to be out of gas by the way it sounds.
or the fuel lines are disconnected or clogged.

Possible reasons-

fuel line clogged, vacuum hose disconnected, spark plugs, (which seemed to be all plugged in) cloggs in general leading to no air getting to engine for it to start.

if anybody has any suggestions please help!!! ive only had it for a month and no money to put it into shops. so looks like im teaching myself how to work on bronco engines.
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:18 PM   #2
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if it is trying to turn over but just wont go with u pumping the gas its either dirty carb or starter solenoid. both were an issue for me on starting. ask your dad is he rebuilt the carb at all. its around $35 for a rebuild kit and $20 for a good quality solenoid. this is all assuming its trying to kick over but just wont.
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:40 PM   #3
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
What happened when you put gas in the tank, did it restart or not...?

Explain what happens when you turn the key to RUN/START, nothing happens, does it crank over but not fire up....not crankover.....?

Check everything and see if you find anything out of the ordinary....if your Carbed then check the power valve inside at the metering block especially if it's back fired, float level, air/fuel mixture and fast/standing idle.....mechanical fuel pump up front on the dr side of the engine has a rubber diaphram inside maybe you losing fuel pressure up to the carb.

If the fuel lines were disconnected you definately know it, fuel would piss everywhere, dirty fuel filters won't prevent an engine from starting unless the system was fouled either by water or mud from Off Roading, a disconnected, broken vaccum line won't prevent the engine from starting vacuum only create poor performance.


If the BKO is EFI you need to use the self test connectors usually located over on the right inside fender liner off the harness and "pull fault codes" from the vehicle computer in order to get an initial diagnosis...www.oldfuelinjection has fault codes with explanations FREE, FSB member owned but it requires either an OBD-I or II Ford Code Reader/Book, $29.99 at most auto stores or internet OR use a paer clip and "pulse codes".


There are any number of additonal reasonsmif EFI, faulty fuel pump relay, failing fuel pump forward or in the gas tank, FPR = fuel pressure regulator located on top of the fuel rail towards the back with poor psi, is the single ignition wire securely on the fender mounted "starter relay" stud, ECT sensor = engine cooling temp sensor located in the lower intake manifold has any elec. issues this can prevent the engine from starting, bad ignition coil, failing ignition module, especially a TFI = thick film integrated style located directly on the front of the distributor...PIP sensor = profile igntion pickup sensor located on the distributor shaft inside.


What condition is the battery in....put an 850CCA battery on your wish list and the BKO will thank you everyday, Costco $81.00 out the door but worth every penny IMO.

* Last but not least for AOD transmissions, is the column shift linkage in sync with the transmission, do you have to lift the column shifter to start or get a code 67 AC circut failure or NSS issue....?

There's a simple adjustment procedure in the Haynes Repair Manual under the transmission section, Ref.Illus. "Point A" on how to correct this, takes less then 5 minutes.

Additional help:
www.broncolinks.com
FSB member El Kabong's ~ baba loohey's favoruite links and questions
FSB member Seattle FSB's ~ post and threads "started" under his name
FSB memebr Steve83's ~ tech album, a click on his black Bronco takes you to it.


Good Luck ~
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:54 PM   #4
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Bronco Info: 1987 V8 302 EFI
its actually fuel injected, No carb
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:02 PM   #5
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
Good that makes it easier IMO, make sure you read thru my #3 thread and check everything so you can narrow it down....

It wouldn't hurt to get a Haynes Repair Manual if you don't have one...

Good Luck ~
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:03 PM   #6
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Bronco Info: 1987 V8 302 EFI
when i put the gas in the tank it did the same thing. it cranks and cranks but does not start up, seems like it is sooo close to starting but doesnt.
no mudding and its EFI
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:17 PM   #7
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
What style ignition module is on your BKO, TFI or a remote mounted module can be tested FREE at most auto stores several times for passing grade before replacing but FIRST you need to "pull codes" from the computer and see what elec/electronic "faults" are indicated otherwise you're guessing and don't start throw parts and money at a problem until you sort it out, EFI's aren't that difficult to understand or work on.

There's more then enough info in post #3 to help but you have to do it yourself....that's the beauty of this website, it's how we all learned to wrench our BKO's ....lol lol...I don't let anyone touch/work on mine thanks to this site and friends I've made over the years...


Good Luck ~
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:24 PM   #8
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Bronco Info: 1987 V8 302 EFI
Thank you for your posts. you have helped. I look forward to being on this site.
As of now I am trying to figure how to get my air box open to check filter and possibly clean it.
Where would be a good place to start? Do i need to unhook the hoses that lead to the dist. to be able to get the air box off?
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:27 PM   #9
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Bronco Info: 1987 V8 302 EFI
p.s ive got chiltons repair manuel has been very helpfull to indentify everything!! =)
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:02 PM   #10
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
My air filter box has 4 "lock clips", 2 on each side where you just flip up the tab and unhook then I just take the air tubes off the throttle body.

Make sure the inside of the air box is clean from oil, mine has a rubber hose from the oil fill cap on the valve cover going to the box and with the old engine occasionally there would be be a bit of oil there so I make sure I clean the filler cap, hose and box inside even though I have new relatively new 302 EFI, habit you know.

Good Luck ~
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:25 AM   #11
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Bronco Info: 1987 V8 302 EFI
ok so today ive decided to check out my fuel filter. I have talked to alot of people about my problem and that seems to come up the most out of any other reasons.
Now i expected to have some gas to leak out from the lines, seems to be a pretty steady flow so i put the lines back on and jump on FSB.

-Does this mean my fuel filter is clean enough to not be the problem?
-Is the gallon of gas i have in my tank going to drain out once i unhook the lines?

any ideas??
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:06 PM   #12
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Bronco Info: 1987 V8 302 EFI
ok ruled out two possibilities.

-not the fuel filter
-not air filter
and knowing it did start after i had problems starting. cant be the spark.


both were in pretty good condition, ffuel filter looked brand new, and gas was goin right through it.
like you said wouldnt cause it not to start but i had to take a look anyway.

next step, im learning codes i guess haha!

could it be sensors??
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:19 PM   #13
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I wouldn't rule out spark without actually testing it...just because it started once, doesn't mean that there isn't something wrong. I'd test spark and see the condition of the spark...

But that's me and I'm picky and have lost money not fully checking things that should have been checked.
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:00 PM   #14
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
I don't see here that you've "pulled codes" from the vehicle computer to see what elec/elcetronic "faults" are indicated which might help eliminate guessing.

Fuel and air filters won't prevent an engine from starting unless they've been fouled by water or mud from Off Roading but it can't hurt to change them.

*Take a look at the ECT sensor = engine temp sensor usually located in the lower intake manifold towards the front. It's a fuel manager at cold start and normal operation so any issues with it can prevent the engine from starting......http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...e+temp+sensor+

You'll notice the ECT harness connector actually "unsnaps" like an Off Road weather -pak style or you can purchase a new pigtail....http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...e+temp+sensor+

Ignition coils and modules can be tested FREE at most auto stores but several times for passing grade otherwise replace with a quality brand, Motorcraft etc.

Is there any reason you had the distributor out or "re-stabbed" it incorrectly....? Once it's back in you need insure the #1 piston is at BTDC, set the harmonic balancer to either 0 (zero) or OEM 10 degrees BTDC then rotate the rotor CCW until it points to the #1 lead on the distributor cap, mine points to 1 o'clock then check your firing order.

What about the PIP sensor....profile ignition pickup located on the distributor shaft, requires pulling out the distibutor, pressing out the roll pin, removing the distributor gear and sliding off the sensor which can be replaced by itself maybe $60.00 at Napa.

Just a few thoughts!


Good Luck ~
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:21 AM   #15
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Pull codes. Was the check engine light on, or blinking? Have you called your dad to ask him questions?
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I can see the nuts now , the rod was in the way before . Thanks ,Bill
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:27 PM   #16
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The check engine light would come on, but not for like a couple seconds then would go off. And would come on every once in a while. but would never stay on

i have recieved my acrton 9015 code reader in the mail yesterday, when reading the guide it informed me that the engine should be fully warmed up. what if the engine wont start?! no warm up.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:45 PM   #17
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Then get the KOEO Self-Test and Continuous Memory Codes.
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:10 PM   #18
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The check engine light does not have to stay on in order to let you know a problem exists in the system. I actually wish my check engine light were bigger, and brighter so I can actually notice when the check engine light is flashing, without squinting, and taking my eyes off of the road. I actually take my Bronco out at night, just to see if the CEL is flashing, or not.

Just do the scan without warming it up. It will tell you the problems the computer noticed while you were driving it, which it stored in memory.
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I can see the nuts now , the rod was in the way before . Thanks ,Bill
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Old 11-17-2012, 04:02 PM   #19
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i am currently having the same sort of issue.....i have a 93 with a 302 that has roughly 4500 miles on it since i put a brand new longblock in it and rebuilt my factory heads. it started running terrible a couple weeks ago when the hurricane came through. it would cut out when i would hit the throttle quickly but it i eased into it it would go fine. so i figured a new fuel filter changed it with no results. then put a new cap and rotor on it thinking it might be cracked and the moisture in the air was screwing up my firing and once again did not work. i have fuel at the rails and seems to be good pressure. as far as check engine lights it has been on since i blocked off my smog pump and hollowed out my cat it doesnt blink or ever go off.

anyone have any ideas on what this could possibly be?

and it will go in spurts on my way to work it might run like crap then on my lunch it will run fine then run lie crap again later and it has been having a very hard time starting when it does
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:44 PM   #20
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i am currently having the same sort of issue.....i have a 93 with a 302 that has roughly 4500 miles on it since i put a brand new longblock in it and rebuilt my factory heads. it started running terrible a couple weeks ago when the hurricane came through. it would cut out when i would hit the throttle quickly but it i eased into it it would go fine. so i figured a new fuel filter changed it with no results. then put a new cap and rotor on it thinking it might be cracked and the moisture in the air was screwing up my firing and once again did not work. i have fuel at the rails and seems to be good pressure. as far as check engine lights it has been on since i blocked off my smog pump and hollowed out my cat it doesnt blink or ever go off.

anyone have any ideas on what this could possibly be?

and it will go in spurts on my way to work it might run like crap then on my lunch it will run fine then run lie crap again later and it has been having a very hard time starting when it does
Do a search for the topic, and/or start a new thread on the topic. Alot of people here have done the smog delete.
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I can see the nuts now , the rod was in the way before . Thanks ,Bill
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