How to "Rust Repair" for the 1st Timer - FSB Forums
Register Home Forums Active Topics Photo Gallery All Albums Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance FSB Store
FullsizeBronco.com is the premier Ford Bronco Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-11-2012, 05:51 PM   #1
FirstPriority
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 96
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1988 Ford Bronco 351W, EFI, 4X4
How to "Rust Repair" for the 1st Timer

So, I have started the project. 1st on the agenda is the rust repair around the doors. I have never done any rust repair. My father is an old school blacksmith but has never done any repairs on vehicles. Any and all thoughts on how I should go about this would be very appreciated.


Also if anyone can tell me how to post pics to this thread I will include pictures of the work that needs to be done.

Thank you.
FirstPriority is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-11-2012, 06:17 PM   #2
JBfab
Registered User
 
JBfab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Slatington, PA
Posts: 2,527
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: 94 C150 prerunner 351/zf/maf. To many mods to list.
Surface rust simply needs to be ground off, treated with a rust converter then primed, sealed and painted. If the rust is rot or bad rust holes the rot needs to be cut out just past the effected area. New metal welded in then grind, treat, prime yadda yadda.

As far as photos you need to open up a supermotors acount or photobucket. I personaly use photobucket. In PB there are simple options to paste link or photo.
__________________
It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog!
Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825
JBfab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 06:17 PM   #3
89Heaver
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: ny
Posts: 134
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 89xlt 5.8l c6
you seem to have been around long enough without being mean about it search is your friend here. basic rust repair is cut out the bad weld in the good. look thru the build forums and you will come across some help or youtube and google. as for pics best solution is to set up a supermotors account and link them from there. good luck
__________________
89 xlt, 351w, C6, 355 gears, F250 front coils. Duratrac 33x12.5x15. 3G upgrade. My first one
89Heaver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 08:25 PM   #4
FirstPriority
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 96
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1988 Ford Bronco 351W, EFI, 4X4
Here are some of the pics.

What gauge sheet metal should i use to repair the holes?

My father thinks we should weld it with a brass rod and an acetylene torch. We do not have access to a welder. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the info on photo bucket. Never tried attaching an image and couldn't find a thread explaining this.











FirstPriority is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 08:26 PM   #5
FirstPriority
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 96
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1988 Ford Bronco 351W, EFI, 4X4
PS. Thankfully this is the only rust on the truck for me to deal with.
FirstPriority is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 08:46 PM   #6
TheUnforgiven
Dr. Brian & Mr. Unfer
 
TheUnforgiven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Woodridge, Illinois
Posts: 18,515
iTrader: (10)
Bronco Info: 2006 Kia Spectra/2005 Chevrolet Venture
you can't just patch it. all that rust HAS to be completely cut out. you're looking into a SERIOUS undertaking here. that is an extremely high stress area that is prone to failure. search around the site for "rain gutter cracks" and the like.

seriously this isn't a job for a rookie. i'd find a QUALITY shop, or let it rot. and all that rain water has to go somewhere, and if there is rust THAT bad up high on the roof, i can guaran-goddamn-tee you there is cancer under the carpet.
__________________
2006 Kia Spectra 4 banger/5 speed FOR SALE!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by "Bronco" John Galt View Post
New nuts are in the plan.
"Kids, they see the good in everything and through their eyes, they open ours." - Hank Davis

"To be easily amused is to live most of your life smiling."
TheUnforgiven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 08:47 PM   #7
JBfab
Registered User
 
JBfab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Slatington, PA
Posts: 2,527
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: 94 C150 prerunner 351/zf/maf. To many mods to list.
Id buy a cheap 110v welder and learn to use it. Good thing is its so high that its easy to hide. I wouldnt use a torch, chances are youll warp the metal around it. Then you just opening a can of worms. 18g will do just fine for these repairs. Remember to take your time and get tight fitting filler peices for best results. If the peice you took out had a slight curve to it add a slight curve to the filler going it.
__________________
It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog!
Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825
JBfab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 09:12 PM   #8
FirstPriority
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 96
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1988 Ford Bronco 351W, EFI, 4X4
took all the interior out last week. Not one spot of rust on the floor or anywhere else. It was getting water into the cab because the carpet was moldy and wet but the floor is in great shape. I was surprised by this also.

JB thanks for the info. any thoughts on what i should do with the rain gutters? I was thinking to cut them out and weld the seam. Any thoughts?
FirstPriority is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 09:19 PM   #9
Alex95
People keep buying my
 
Alex95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 7,818
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: A 88 Bronco and a LBZ to pull it.
it wont look right w/o them, like everyone else said, cut off wheel, 18g sheet metal bent to shape, or lots of small pieces, weld on, grind down welds, prime, paint, seal, watch tv (walking dead is on)
__________________
Quote:
A general rule in modding a vehicle is: Powerful, Reliable, Cheap; You can only pick two, not three.
88 Custom; 4.9; C6; 3.55's; TTB, 8.8; BW1356; Top-Hats; K&N FIPK; 160A 3G, 2G compatible; Flowmaster 40 Series; GT Rollbar; Full Replacement F/R Brush Guards; 2 gal. Viair Air tank/compressor; HornBlasters Shocker XL Train Horns; Full MTX Audio System; Rollin on XD Addicts
Alex95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 09:26 PM   #10
defcon5
Registered User
 
defcon5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Albany, Oregon
Posts: 1,157
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 1992 XLT 5.8, SAS 8 inches and Tons
I know I will get hate. But take that thing to the scrap yard, it's worthless in my opinion.
__________________
1992 Bronco XLT, 351w. 8 inch lift SAS on tons!

http://s1334.photobucket.com/
defcon5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 09:31 PM   #11
FirstPriority
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 96
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1988 Ford Bronco 351W, EFI, 4X4
I wont hate you Defcon but come on now! The rest of the truck is a beautiful peach! 130k original miles and everything else works. I hate that the PO never took care of it but she's mine now. Plus I tried to trade it for an AR or two but my son got crazy on me as I was trying to sell his monster truck. He's 6. I'm in trouble.
FirstPriority is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 09:35 PM   #12
defcon5
Registered User
 
defcon5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Albany, Oregon
Posts: 1,157
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 1992 XLT 5.8, SAS 8 inches and Tons
I think my comment comes from the land of no rust. Most broncos in the JY around here are prolly in nicer shape body wise than 40% of the ones on here.
Whatever ya do with it good luck

Oh and for the rain gutters, if you shave them all the way around it will look fine.
__________________
1992 Bronco XLT, 351w. 8 inch lift SAS on tons!

http://s1334.photobucket.com/

Last edited by defcon5; 11-11-2012 at 09:36 PM. Reason: added
defcon5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 10:21 PM   #13
JBfab
Registered User
 
JBfab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Slatington, PA
Posts: 2,527
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: 94 C150 prerunner 351/zf/maf. To many mods to list.
If you do decide to shave the rain gutters- only cut a small amount off at a time, about 2-3" then tack it in place. Next 2-3 and so on. If you cut it all off in one shot the roof will seperate and make the job alot harder. Gutter shaving isnt easy by any means the metal is thin and easy to blow out. Id just repair what you have. What i did on my gutters was repair them, then filled them in with all metal body filler.
__________________
It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog!
Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825
JBfab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 10:43 PM   #14
FirstPriority
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 96
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1988 Ford Bronco 351W, EFI, 4X4
Thats a good point and idea. Thanks JB! I have about three or four inches on each side that is separated from the rust. How do I fill the gap? Weld?
FirstPriority is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 04:00 AM   #15
JBfab
Registered User
 
JBfab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Slatington, PA
Posts: 2,527
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: 94 C150 prerunner 351/zf/maf. To many mods to list.
You gotta cut out any signs of rust and patch in a new piece. If you leave any rust behind and try to weld it, it will do nothing but blow out and you will struggle to get it filled in with weld. Now when patching metal in dont try to lay just one constant bead of weld. Tack the new piece in. About one tack every 3/4 around the perimeter and walk away for acouple minutes. Or work on anouther section. When its cool lay a few more tacks then move away till it cools. If you put to much heat to it it will warp and thats no good.

When i do such repairs i like to cut everything bad out and make all my patches at once. This way i can tack and move never putting to much heat into one area at a time. Do not forget to protect your glass from sparks from the grinder and the welder. An spark will melt into the glass and screw it up. After a few rain storms youll have real nice rust streaks down your windows and at that point youll have to replace any damaged glass. This goes for rear veiw mirrors and plastic aswell. 3m makes a realy nice sticky paper that protects it from sparks. Think it called welding paper or protector and can be picked up at any auto supply shop, youll be going there anyway for body filler. You want need alot of filler put yeah youll most likely need it. The more time and care you take fixing this the less likely youll have to redo it in the future.

Good luck and were all here to help along the way.
__________________
It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog!
Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825
JBfab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 04:18 AM   #16
Andrew James
Age. Fac ut gaudeam
 
Andrew James's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Batesville, AR
Posts: 3,801
iTrader: (4)
Bronco Info: 1978 Ford Bronco RangerXLT 400/C6
Damn, that is scrapyard material around here.
__________________
1996 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.8/E4OD EFI
1978 Ford Bronco Ranger XLT 6.6/C6
1990 Chevrolet 1500 5.7/5speed TBI
1986 Nissan D21 Hardbody 2.4/5speed TBI
2000 Hyundai Tiburon 2.0/5speed
Andrew James is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 09:51 AM   #17
j. r. Nice
Forward Some Money
 
j. r. Nice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ohio, heart of
Posts: 3,692
iTrader: (6)
Bronco Info: '89 Bronco, 5.8, MAF, Summit shorties, Bassani SS, AOD, Tru-trac posi, Stocker
That's in the rain gutter sheetmetal, the roof skin (inner and outer) and the "b" pillar. Plus, it's already been mudded once. No tellin' what's under it all.

You might find new OEM rain gutters, but they are RARE. I squirreled away a set several years ago. You can find new tops too, but they are pricey. I'd look for a donor truck with a good roof and graft it on.
__________________
Click HERE to visit my frame-off NOS restoration thread.

Photobucket Album ....and a crap load of pictures....
j. r. Nice is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 10:20 AM   #18
Ranger429
Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Spring Grove, Illinois
Posts: 12,293
iTrader: (22)
Bronco Info: 79 Bronco, 47 Binder
Quote:
Originally Posted by defcon5 View Post
I know I will get hate. But take that thing to the scrap yard, it's worthless in my opinion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew James View Post
Damn, that is scrapyard material around here.
X3, I wouldn't even waste my time BUT considering you are doing something you have never tackled before that is a prime candidate for learning on.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 351w500 View Post
My sister in law is 3 months pregnant and next week I'm gonna shove a loaded .357 up her coochie just to familiarize the kid with weapons !
Ranger429 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 11:01 AM   #19
TheUnforgiven
Dr. Brian & Mr. Unfer
 
TheUnforgiven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Woodridge, Illinois
Posts: 18,515
iTrader: (10)
Bronco Info: 2006 Kia Spectra/2005 Chevrolet Venture
Ranger has a good point.

and x4, it's junk with that much damage in such a critical high stress area. you'd be better off welding on a rust free roof.
__________________
2006 Kia Spectra 4 banger/5 speed FOR SALE!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by "Bronco" John Galt View Post
New nuts are in the plan.
"Kids, they see the good in everything and through their eyes, they open ours." - Hank Davis

"To be easily amused is to live most of your life smiling."
TheUnforgiven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 12:49 PM   #20
Mstroker
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Galesburg area, Illinois
Posts: 6
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1989 F150
I have never seen rust in those areas... I would probably get another truck or replace the whole cab that's not really the kind of rust that you repair it's full on rot
Mstroker is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  FSB Forums > Bronco Discussions > Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone!


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:50 PM.


2003-2009 FullSizeBronco.com. All rights reserved