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Old 11-11-2012, 07:07 PM   #1
Backwoodz
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Bronco Info: 1990 Eddie Bauer 351 W
Noobie and need some help

I just bought a 1990 Eddie bauer edition with a 5.8.
Odometer reads 116k. I have no prior history of the FSB and it was a $800 auction truck find.
It is is in reasonable shape for a rust belt truck.
I am starting to piece it back together(someone had roached the interior) It has a very bad no rev at wot and has some popping through the exhaust at the same time. I am assuming this could be a fuel starvation issue but the tail pipes show very rich black sooty conditions.
I have not even started analyzing the truck yet. I have no idea where to even start. I have been reading some older post and was thinking maybe MAF or the IAC...but not sure.
The truck has the cat/cats removed but the front 02 sensor is still in place. Someone had some custom exhaust with a magnaflow work done. It does have a CEL that flashes on after a few seconds after it starts.....BTW it starts fairly easily but definitely sounds like it is rich.
What type code reader works for the 1990 years? I read something about a paper clip...?
Thanks again and I look forward to getting this thing road worthy again...My last real truck was a 1978 SB F100 4x4 with the 351M but that was about 25 years ago and it was a great truck.
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:27 PM   #2
DLuders
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Welcome to FSB! This YouTube video below shows how to do a 1984-1994 Ford Self-Diagnostic Test, and get the test codes:

nl2lqqS7vvE

There is a "Pulling Codes" video at the bottom of this BroncoDriver.com webpage, and there is a link to the engine warning light Codes Chart PDF document. Note that if your Bronco is 1992 or before, it will have 2 digit codes; 1993-96 uses 3 digit codes.

Here is a YouTube video about "How to Use Seafoam". The description says, "Seafoam is a petroleum based oil and gas treatment which is stated and proven to clean out your entire engine, fuel system, tank, and oil. The instructions say to pour 1/3 into the crankcase oil, 1/3 through a vacuum line, and 1/3 through the gas tank. During this time, there will be extreme amounts of smoke, which is my favorite part. Doing this will ensure that you clean out your entire engine and keep it running in top shape."

i0OA3onMImc

Here is a YouTube video of a fellow "Seafoaming" his 1993 Ford Bronco. He "smoked it" on purpose with good results!

ERCm630MpV0
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:49 PM   #3
bulrid8
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Bronco Info: 1990 4x4 351w
Do a basic tune up and check the timing. Start there and work your way through it.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:21 PM   #4
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Thanks guys. I will check it as weather permits. They are forecasting crappy conditions on the horizon here. I am in Mid-Michigan.
A couple other issues.
How hard is fixing a steering column that seems as if a bushing is worn out? The wheel moves up and down quite abit.
BTW this is a great site and love reading the build threads. Maybe one day I can have one of those...8^)
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:42 PM   #5
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Where can I look online for what type of fuel management is used on the 1990?
Does it have a TPS sensor? It does not want to take fuel very well.
BTW I did do the 3 part sea foam treatment. The plugs and wires look almost new.
I see a cut wire around the distributor harness..but wires it twisted together and I believe it is a brownish red. Also at some point someone disconnected the dash oil sending unit and installed a aftermarket pressure guage.
I was looking on ebay for a manual. Is the Chilton or Haynes ok?...or is there a place I can purchase a PDF version.?
I have been trying the search function but not getting mush help.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:12 PM   #6
Alvin in AZ
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Are you sure about the mileage?
Here's what a 125k brake pedal pad looks like...

Alvin in AZ
ps- http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/pedal.jpg
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:14 PM   #7
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Your vehicle uses Speed Density EFI. It does in fact have a TPS.
I am not sure of online manuals, but I have Chilton's and Haynes' manuals for everything I own, it is the first thing in the basket when I go to the parts store for oils and filters and anything else I know I need when I first purchase a used vehicle model that I haven't previously owned. If you take your time and use different phrases in any search engine you will get different results every time. make sure your spelling is correct.
I am not very familiar with the speed density vehicles, yet I do know that they are not as forgiving as Mass Airflow systems when it comes to aftermarket bolt ons in form of cams, intakes,headers and chargers. I would start by making sure all your wires to the sensors are in good shape, if you have an ohm meter , you can check the sensors, but I would take the plunge and buy new (MAP,TPS,and ACT) sensors regardless as they are possibly as old as the vehicle itself, and these are the key to your EEC sending the correct signals to your injectors.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Backwoodz View Post
Does it have a TPS sensor?
The plugs and wires look almost new.
Yes it has a TPS and it'd prob'ly be a big favor to yourself to buy a new one. ;)
Yeah but... "looks new" don't carry current tho. ;) {check with a ohm meter}
{are the wires -numbered- factory originals?}

Butthead in AZ
ps- x2 what all BronCummins said except if I really mean to keep the vehicle
I buy factory manuals the way I did for my '67 Dart, '75 F150 and '91 Bronco.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:01 PM   #9
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I just came back from a 15 mile drive and the seafoam my have helped clean the injectors some. The CEL went off and it is taking fuel better. Starting to snow here so will see at 5 in the morning how it acts.
Alvin I am unsure of mileage. It was an auction bought truck from previous owner with no history I can find. The brake pedal has a small bit of wear on the lower right portion. Hell it could be 216K for as much as I know but the engine sounds tight. The transfer case locks in and out of 2 and 4x4 smoothly and the body has very minimal rust for a 90. It needs work forsure but it has potential in my eyes. Just need to get that service manual or find a buddy that is knowledgeable of this year Bronco.
Like I said my last full size real truck was a 1978 F100 with the 351M aspirated. It ran great and never let me down. I have missed that truck for well over 20+ years. Being in Michigan you just do not find solid older trucks that often....and when you do they want 6-7 grand for one.....so when I seen this one on a local CL ad for $800 I had to take the gamble.
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:44 PM   #10
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I have put alsmost 150 miles on it and with every mile it seems to run better.....not great but better.
I notice a wet spot under the rear end and believe the tank is leaking. Is this a common problem?
Also tonight while out driving the heat stopped blowing hot air. The coolant level is proper.
What would cause the heater to stop blowing hot? I am almost thinking I might have bit off more than I can chew with winter right around the corner.
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:59 PM   #11
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I got my bronco in June and the first thing I noticed was a wet skid plate under the fuel tank. I got a plastic replacement from JBG, wont be worrying about rusting tank anymore. Do you have wet carpet/floor board on passenger compartment? If the truck is not running hot, you probably have a bad heater core, do a search on heater cores or check the "active topics" link, there is a discussion going on right now about heater core issues.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BronCummin5.9 View Post
I got my bronco in June and the first thing I noticed was a wet skid plate under the fuel tank. I got a plastic replacement from JBG, wont be worrying about rusting tank anymore. Do you have wet carpet/floor board on passenger compartment? If the truck is not running hot, you probably have a bad heater core, do a search on heater cores or check the "active topics" link, there is a discussion going on right now about heater core issues.
It was working fine this afternoon. An hour later I got back out and no heat.
The tank is not leaking bad. but I see it staying wet at the skid plate. I really hate dropping the skidplate and tank. Next thing would be the fuel pump goes out after I have the new tank installed......
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:35 PM   #13
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Well, if you have the funds, go ahead and install the new pump while your in there! If not, put it off untill you have the funds. Check to see if your coolant is circulating, when the enigine is cooled down i repeat COOLED DOWN, go out and take the cap off the radiator. Start the engine and let it warm back up to normal temps, you should be able to visually see the coolant circulating in the radiator neck. If it is circulating you probably have a bad H.C., if not circulating you have a sticky or bad thermostat. Old thermostats are funny with weather change if the vehicle sat up a long time prior to you buying it this may very well be the case. It is necesary to fix the thermostat as you could damage the entire engine, or be stranded in the cold.... or both.
Or maybe you should ignore my advice and check out what the local guru has written about it all..

http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/...Cooling-System

Last edited by BronCummin5.9; 11-14-2012 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:46 PM   #14
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Rockauto.com
PERFORMANCE ELECTRIC Part # P46K Fuel Pump Module Repair Kit
Rock Auto sez: >One of our most popular parts<
$30 for just the pump.

Anybody else try one of those?

It's a different type of pump, it's supposed to be quieter and last longer.
I got one already in and ready to go in the 16.5 gallon "front tank" I'm
going to install in my 2wd Bronco someday.

Alvin in AZ
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:35 AM   #15
miesk5
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yo,
Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; Scroll Down on First Page, Click on each Section, then on next page, click on the pdf file; the complete book is over 85MB pdf and can be downloaded @ http://www.yunost.ru/docs/Ford-injectors-book/Book.pdf
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru


you have Bank Fire; "... Bank fire means that the injectors are divided into 2 groups. On V8 engines cylinders 1 4 5 and 8 open together and cylinders 2 3 6 and 7 open together. This creates an equal distribution of fuel atomization inside the intake manifold.
Sequential fire means one injector is fire a while the intake valve is open. This creates an equal distribution of fuel atomization inside the one intake manifold runner during the intake stroke of that cylinder..." Miesk5 Note, Bank Fire injection is associated with Speed Density EFI; READ MORE
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=4

==========

Strg Column Parts Break-Out Diagram in 91-96 Tilt; "...is used in just about everything Ford made from ~'91-up. The only difference is tilt or not. Everything else bolts on (airbag, brake/shift interlock, vacuum brake release, etc. column itself is virtually the same from the mid-70s to 91 (depending on options). Older columns have an integral shift indicator; cruise columns are wired slightly differently from non-cruise; later columns use a different Aluminum cradle & wheel, but they're easy to change..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/573959

more strg col LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=344

=======

FUEL SYSTEM; carbs, EFI, pumps, tanks

Electronic Fuel Injection
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=205


TANK
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=214
such as;
Skid Plate & Pads; "...If the pads are beyond re-use, I recommend camper shell mounting tape because it's a closed-cell foam intended for heavy loads with slight movement in an automotive environment..."
Source: by Steve83

PUMP
Installation in an 86
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ad.php?t=93172

Installation, WALBRO 255LPH in a 91
Source: by DcSkater602 (Steve) at FSB http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=110758

========


Heater & Hoses
If the heater water hoses are too hot to hold, the thermostat is OK. If the heater water hoses do not get too hot to hold, REPLACE the thermostat. If only one heater water hose gets hot while the other remains cool, a plugged heater water hose or heater core is indicated. Check to ensure the engine coolant is at the proper level, then start the engine and let it run until it is warmed to operating temperature. Turn on the heater and feel the inlet and outlet heater water hoses (18472) to the heater core (18476). If the inlet heater water hose is hot and outlet heater water hose is cooler, the heater core may be plugged. To bleed air from heater core, remove the hose at the outlet connection of the heater core (hose leading to the water pump). Allow any trapped air to flow out. When a continuous flow of coolant is obtained, connect the hose to the core. Do not overtighten heater hose clamps

--
More Heat; "...the 87-91 trucks with factory A/C have a recirculation door in their HVAC system, it's there to cut off outside air and keep running only in-cab air through the blower. It's vacuum controlled, and only cuts outside air when you put the control lever to off or max A/C. The problem I see with this is when you have 15F ambient temperature with some -20 windchill, heating up that air good could be a challenge for a truck with an aging heater core or tired blower fan. Last year just to see how much of difference it actually makes I zip-tied my recirculation door closed, thus running inside air through the HVAC system all winter long - things got real warm real quick, noticeable improvement even when truck is stationary. For the warmer days tho I want the recirculation door open so I can get fresh air in the cab as I drive... So I devised and implemented a solution in my 90 truck - I now have a manually controlled recirculation door that I can open and close to my liking, which means I can get tons of heat in the winter even with some nasty ambient temperatures..."
Source: by M.L.S.C. at FSB http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165079

--
Blend Door Location in a 94; 80-96 similar; "...Probably the temp blend door is loose & flopping around on its own. The easiest way to see it is to fully lower the glove box, pull the ~8 screws from the heater core cover, & look inside to the L (driver's side). You'll see the cable & control lever (in top L of 2nd pic) as soon as you fold the glovebox down, so inspect it first. The 3rd shows the whole cover - it's the large section in the top center with tiny white numbers inked near its bottom edge. The cables are visible, too...."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB


Heater Core Failure, Repeated TSB 01-15-06 for 85-96
Source: by miesk5 at FSB http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...t=84745&page=5
ISSUE: Some vehicles may exhibit (repeat) heater core leaks. This may be caused by a chemical reaction called electrolysis. Electrolysis involves an ion exchange between the heater core and engine coolant which can result in a breakdown of the heater core material. This is similar to the operation of a battery.
ACTION: Check for electrolysis on any vehicle with a heater core failure. If electrolysis is verified, flush the coolant and follow additional steps as required. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Electrolysis Inspection
If there is a condition of a heater core leaking or repeat heater core leak, check for electrolysis using the following procedure:
To check for electrolysis use a DVOM set on DC volts. Place the positive probe of the meter in the engine coolant and the negative probe on the negative battery post.
Adjust engine throttle to 2000 RPM to properly get coolant flow and true electrolysis voltages.
If more than .4V is recorded, flush the
NOTE: EXPORT MARKETS, BE SURE THE WATER IS DESALINATED.

If there is still excessive voltage present in the coolant, check the engine body/battery grounds. Also, verify proper grounding of any aftermarket electrical/electronic equipment which has been installed into the vehicle. Improperly grounded electrical devices can cause electrolysis to occur.
If the condition is still present after the grounds have been checked, it may be necessary to add extra grounds to the heater core and engine. A hose clamp can be used to secure a 16 AWG stranded copper wire to the heater core inlet tube. The other end should be secured to an EXISTING FASTENER on the body sheet metal. Extra grounds to the engine should be attached between EXISTING FASTENERS on the engine and body sheet metal. Verify continuity of any added grounds to the negative battery terminal.
If the condition is still present, add a restrictor (part F1UZ-18D406-A) on the inlet hose with the arrow facing the direction of coolant flow (toward heater core). Cut the line and install with 2 hose clamps. It is important that the restrictor be installed in the right direction of flow and as close to the engine block as possible (not near the heater core itself.)
Coolant Fill Procedure
At times, in order to completely remove any trapped air in the cooling system of vehicles equipped with 4.6/5.4/6.8L modular engines, it may be necessary to use the following procedures:
Disconnect the heater hose at the right front or rear of the engine.
Remove the thermostat and housing.
Using the thermostat opening, carefully fill the engine with the proper clean coolant mixture until observed at the engine side heater hose connection.
Reconnect the heater hose and reinstall the thermostat and housing.
Fill the degas bottle to the coolant fill level mark.
Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperatures.
Select max heat and max blower speed on the climate system.
NOTE: IF THE HEAT OUTPUT IS INSUFFICIENT, OR THE ENGINE DOES NOT REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURES, VERIFY PROPER THERMOSTAT OPERATION AND REPEAT PROCEDURE IF REQUIRED.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
F1UZ-18D406-A Restrictor
--
Poor Heater/Defroster Performance in Engine Coolant Concerns TSB 93-24-08 for 84-94 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Econoline & many others; Blend door operation, Check blend door for binding and proper operation; Mode door operation. Check mode door for binding and proper operation. Blower fan operation, Check blower fan for proper operation and control. Heater core plugged, Flush cooling system. Coolant level, Check level in radiator and coolant recovery reservoir. Leakage, Check for leaks using pressure test. Thermostat operation, Check Thermostat. Refer to "Thermostat Diagnosis" procedure.
__________________
96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
USN & DoD Planner (ret)
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:42 AM   #16
Alvin in AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
...Aluminum cradle...
Are some of 'em really aluminum?
All I've ever seen are cast zinc.

"zinc is a soft and brittle metal" -from metallurgy class

Alvin in AZ
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:18 PM   #17
Backwoodz
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Thanks guys. I have a Haynes manual on the way....I have alot of reading to catch up on.
Thanks again.
Steve(backwoodz)
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:25 PM   #18
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Bronco Info: 1990 Eddie Bauer 351 W
Well I just replaced the tank. Everything went well but I just reused my fuel pump for now....but acts like the pimp is having a hard time priming up. I only added 6 gallons. Is that enough?
I also have not replaced the fuel filter. I only had a few hours window to get the tank out and replaced....so I will replace the filter asap.
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:05 PM   #19
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Bronco Info: 88 EB- 351EFI (No mods), AOD trans, 133k
I have an 88 EB and just moved to Arizona from the Irish Hills in Michigan. Out here, there are so many clean Broncos in the bone yards it is like Candyland. Too bad I didnt see this thread earlier because I had a Suburban shipped back to Michigan a week ago and could have put a clean tank, bumpers, and trim pieces in it to ship back. Parts are really cheap...just bought a few things myself.
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Old 11-18-2012, 12:58 AM   #20
Backwoodz
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Bronco Info: 1990 Eddie Bauer 351 W
RockAuto shipped me a new tank in two days for $78 and $15 shipping. If I had known I would get it that quick I would have had them toss in that fuel pump kit and filter
Who has best prices for rear wheel well patch panels? I see them on LMC for $40 and up depending on size need.
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