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Old 11-20-2012, 11:15 AM   #1
Blueyedwolf71
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Sorry for another won't start thread

Hello, I have one of the 4 door broncos and I cannot get it to start. This has the 460 and e4od and it is a 91. I have recently changed the transmission and after 4 trips in it the truck died. On that occurrence I found a burnt fuse able link that ends up going to the ignition system. Before I found that link, I changed the ignition module and computer, coil and EEC relay that had a broken diode in it. After those changes it started and was able to drive it home. Once home it died again. This time I found a blown overdrive fuse that had 2 wires going to transmission chaffed thru on transfer case. I repaired the wis and replaced fuse. Still no start! Replaced the computer with a new one and new eec relay and new ignition module.
I have checked codes with obd1 code reader and I am only getting codes for engine being cold. Like trans temp and engine coolant sensor. I am lost on this one!
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:18 PM   #2
JKossarides
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Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI (2008) All MSD ignition, 9mm FMSR wires
What exactly happens when you turn the key to the RUN/START position......nothing at all or does it crank over but not fire up, are you getting fuel at the rail, use the schrader valve and push in the center valve to see if you've got fuel there, possibly test FPR = fuel pressure regulator for psi, check the Haynes for correct psi - engine off cranking, engine running.

Possibly the fuel relay.....?

New parts out of the box can be bad, what brand ignition module did you buy.....?

Test it several times for passing grade or exchange it....especially the TFI = thick film intedgrated module directly mounted on the distributor....Motorcraft, Motorcraft...


Good Luck ~
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:46 PM   #3
theramsey3
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check for fuel pressure with a gauge, check for spark at the coil and spark plugs you need three things to run fuel, air, spark. did you test anything before you started emptying your wallet playing with a diagnosis? it is always cheaper to buy only what needs to be repaired. It is highly unlikely you had a bad ECU, the relay for it is more plausible than the ECU itself. have you tried starting it with something like starting fluid?

Please explain Exactly what diagnosis techniques you have tried besides throw new parts at it until something makes it run.
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I was always taught u got to lube it up before you stick it in. My friends said the teacher yesterday said that too.
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:36 PM   #4
Blueyedwolf71
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Thank you for the replies!
I put in a autozone brand of ignition module when I replaced it the second time. The first replacement was from my donor centurion that ran just fine.

The Fuel pump is working like normal, it runs for about a second or so when the key is on and then stops. When you attempt to start it the engine turns over and does not fire. The fuel pump will recharge the fuel rail again after the starter disengages. I will have to get a fuel pressure gauge on it to check for sure.
I found a good link to test the ignition module on here and will test it after work.
When the problem started I pulled the coil wire off and there was no spark which lead me down the road of changing parts. Initially started with the parts off the donor centurion and had no luck. I figured the burnt fusable link might have caused a problem with the original and donor parts that is why I chose to replace with new.
The only code I ever got was one for the PIP failure. It went away as soon as I changed the ignition module.
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:00 PM   #5
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yo, One more Link;
No Start, but Cranks and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams; "...This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition....etc.
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:02 PM   #6
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When you go to crank it does the tach needle bounce up and down?
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:14 PM   #7
Blueyedwolf71
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MM1,
Yes the tach needle does bounce when cranking it
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:28 PM   #8
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I had an 89 mustang that would die once i got warmed up. Then it got to where it wouldn't fire at all. I pulled the tfi module and had it checked, and it was bad. So i put a new one on it and it made no difference. I found a used distributor out of a running car, and wa-la. Fired rght up and has ran great ever since. I noticed the tach needle would jump up to 2k or so, then bounce down to nothing and stay there when it wasn't firing. So you might want to check out the module/distributor. Would be easy to do since you have a donor sitting there.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:59 PM   #9
theramsey3
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http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...9&postcount=16 check out that link has some good stuff definitely try the pip test.
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Gotta get going again soon. my supermotors for before and after.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ford_munky_man View Post
I was always taught u got to lube it up before you stick it in. My friends said the teacher yesterday said that too.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:57 PM   #10
Blueyedwolf71
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For some odd reason it started when I got home. I did not do anything to it yet. I will try all these diagnostics on it over the holiday!

Thank you all for the helpful tips!!! You guys are awesome!
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