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Old 11-20-2012, 11:43 PM   #1
LTP1996
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Slow start after driving

After driving for awhile and i shut of my truck,and then if i try to start it again with in like 15 min,it will turn over...but VERY slow,the voltage drop to almost nothing,lights turn off,all power goes to starting this dam thing.
It always starts,it just takes a few extra sconds.

My assumptions:
Alternator
battory
Starter getting hot
starter relay

351w/6c 1988

Any input would help,thanks

Levi-
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:29 AM   #2
Seattle FSB
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It is probably a failing Alternator not recharging your battery. Start the engine and probe the battery with a voltage meter. Should be 13.5v to 14.5v.

Today my F250 died a few times. Dash Volt gauge showed low. Running voltage showed 11.5v with my meter. I swapped out the Alternator and found 14.5v. Good as new!
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:36 AM   #3
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Click this, read all the captions, then remove/inspect/clean yours:

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Old 11-21-2012, 12:46 PM   #4
Alvin in AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
Click this, read all the captions, then remove/inspect/clean yours:
x2 all that! :)

As a professional battery maintainer (I forgot more about how to pour
water than most people will ever know;) we were given 5 gallon buckets
of NO-OX-ID grease to keep the terminals and cables corrosion free.

Problem was it was too thick (even in southern Arizona) so I thinned it
with motor oil and it worked -way- better! No kidding. :) Well so when
my can got low I added more motor oil over and over until I gave up on
the NO-OX-ID grease entirely and went with just straight motor oil.

Hey, no kidding, it worked as good as any other mix and better than the
straight NO-OX-ID grease itself.

So there you have it, believe it or not.

--------------------------------------------

I'm one of those guys that makes a point of going out of my way to ask
if they need help when I see a hood up. Yeah, that's me all over.

Like Steve sez these are the number one reason they got their hood up...

...I've cleaned a jillion of 'em after-first-proving that little steel clamp at
the back was-the-trouble by using an analog voltmeter.

Alvin in AZ
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:55 PM   #5
Alvin in AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle FSB View Post
It is probably a failing Alternator not recharging your battery. Start the engine
and probe the battery with a voltage meter. Should be 13.5v to 14.5v.
Today my F250 died a few times. Dash Volt gauge showed low. Running voltage
showed 11.5v with my meter. I swapped out the Alternator and found 14.5v.
Good as new!
Cool, a guy that used a meter to find electrical trouble!
Suppose there's just one guy in each state in the US that actually does that? ;)

-----------------------------------------------

Here's my way of doing it...

1) It's messing up?
Don't mess with any wires etc get the analog meter out -first- -thing-!
That's so you won't "clear-up the trouble on yourself" and then not -know-
what needs fixing. BTDT and BTSeenThat! Do yourself a favor and -let- the
voltmeter do its job before you go monkeying with it. ;)

2) Read the battery voltage by digging the voltmeter's leads into the
battery's terminals (not the clamps ok?). Should read ~12 volts.

3) Have a helper try to start the vehicle. I've done this by myself, so don't
tell me you can't too. ;) But a helper's cool you can teach the helper how
to trouble shoot a starting/charging system while you're at it. ;)

4) Watch to see how far down the needle goes...
Less that 10 volts and sounds sluggish or don't turn over? --->*4a
Don't move really, stays at ~12 volts and don't turn over? --->*4b
Drops to ~11 volts and starter sounds good and engine starts fine? :)
(you're good)

5) After it starts, does the voltage stay at ~12 volts or rise to 13+?
If it just sits there like Seattle's did you got charging circuit trouble could
be the alternator or the voltage regulator or both.
(alternators can be fixed, BTW;)

The trick is to first try it on a vehicle that's working fine to see it in action.

An analog voltmeter is all you need.

*4a) Typically you've got a good connection through the whole starter's
circuit and got a low or weak battery.
How old is the battery?
A new battery can be bad BTSeenThat, no kidding.

*4b) Typically you got an "open circuit" (as opposed to a "short circuit")
and the analog meter will find it for you if you-let-it-lead-you to it.
In steps, move the leads closer to the "load" (the starter) until you get
virtually-zero-volts (when the helper tries to start the engine). Use little
bitty steps as you narrow in on -exactly- where the open circuit is. ;)

-------------------------------------------

When hunting down a broken rail at night I'd count how many times I'd
put the meter across the track and read the track voltage (~3/4 volt DC).

If the circuit had an open in it, it'd read either ~1.25 volts or zero volts,
depending on which side of the "open" I was on. 7 times was the goal.
(Law of diminishing returns)

I put the meter down 0 times to 9 times, the track circuits could be five
miles long. Did this a jillion times, usually cold weather so I'd make a
fire for the track department guys to warm up by when they got there. :)

One time I put the pickup's spotlight on the tracks where I was going to
take the first reading and the broken rail was in the spotlight. LOL :)
(Cavot Road at the Arizona/New Mexico border, between Steins and Vanar)
(it got missed spelled somewhere along the line it's pronounced Steens)

Alvin in AZ
ps- is the PO's starter getting hot?
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