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Old 11-26-2012, 01:38 PM   #1
bosshoff
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Question Specific brand recommendations for rear quarters?

I am beginning the process of repairing/replacing the rear quarters on my 1996 daily driver. I want to know if anyone has a specific brand recommendations for replacement rear quarter panels. I have been around replacement fenders that were for a service van we had, and they were really thin and tinny sounding once installed. There was no comparison between the replacement panel and the OEM panel. I do not want to order a set of new quarters from LMB, JBG, etc. and find out they are not even close to OEM quality. I know there are a lot of companies that provide these. Which have you used, and which can you recommend I either go with, or even stay away from?

Thank you.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:13 AM   #2
miesk5
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yo BOSS,
MILL SUPPLY, Cleveland, OH
Their body parts On-line Store site is
For 1/4's; http://rustrepair.com/PANELS/FORD-92...BED-REPAIR.HTM
98-87-50-LH; LH Complete Rear Quarter, that fits 87-96 Ford Bronco.-detail 87-96 212.50
25.00 Pounds. 75x34x8 inches
This part is too large for UPS and must be shipped Freight.
Lead time is about 11 days.

98-87-50-RH; RH Complete Rear Quarter Panel, that fits 87-96 Ford Bronco.-detail 87-96 212.50
============

to save $ on a compl 1/4 panel
I bought the 1/4 panel patch panels
They are primed and of 18 gauge steel - exact fit around wheel well arch and packaged very well for shipping.
see #50
I ordered it on 6 JUN 2011 @ 1225 hours and received on 8 JUN 2011 !!!
S & H cost for both from Cleveland, OH to NJ was $12.xx

#52 LH Upper wheel arch area 16"H x 40"L 87-98 $29.00 & RH

from the horizontal crease below camper top down to wheel arches and around the arches

exact fit = Will be able to weld w/no adjustments to it or the 1/4

can be attached w/body adhesive or even PL Premium; Sixlitre has been experimenting w/PL Premium on some parts.
Of course, cut the rusted arch section out and inner panel. so you can inspect and clean higher up inside 1/4

Here is my 1/4 panel section in my site http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=459

examples;

Replacement w/adhesive including inner wheel house in an 86
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net

Replacement w/adhesive w/parts list; including wheel house in a 90; Panel Adhesive, $26.00 a tube & Application Gun, $65.00 by wheelersautobody.com , etc.
Source: by Jason T (Broncomx, Two Face) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...p?t=7712&pp=20
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THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see current page
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:15 AM   #3
rwrankin
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I used Browns Rust Repair Supply for my Fender replacement. The 1/4's were thicker than the stock sheet metal.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:42 PM   #4
bosshoff
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Flange the fender or the repair panel?

I am thinking of using repair panels to fix my rusted rear fender openings over my wheel wells. I plan on glueing them into place using SEM panel adhesive. (I already have the gun, and like the product). I have a vice-grip flange tool. My question is which part do I flange? I would think I would want the old fender to be straight, and my replacement panel to be flanged. This way the repair panel buts up behind the OEM Ford rear fenders, etc. Am I correct with this?
I did think it would be easier to flange the Bronco, and strip off the outside paint to accept the flat repair panel? What do you guys think?
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:08 PM   #5
472SCJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosshoff View Post
I am thinking of using repair panels to fix my rusted rear fender openings over my wheel wells. I plan on glueing them into place using SEM panel adhesive. (I already have the gun, and like the product). I have a vice-grip flange tool. My question is which part do I flange? I would think I would want the old fender to be straight, and my replacement panel to be flanged. This way the repair panel buts up behind the OEM Ford rear fenders, etc. Am I correct with this?
I did think it would be easier to flange the Bronco, and strip off the outside paint to accept the flat repair panel? What do you guys think?
I'm not an expert. but I would flange the metal on the Bronco, main reason being if you flange the repair panel so it butts up behind the original metal, now you have created a seam for moisture to build in, meaning more rusting later
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:33 PM   #6
j. r. Nice
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Flange the old fender and leave the repair panel flat.
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