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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cochise County Az
Posts: 28
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 84 Bronco XLT, originally a 302-2v, now a 351c 2v.3.55 LSD front and rear
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ignition and wiring assistance requested 84 Bronco
Just cleaning up the 84 Bronco I recently picked up. The steering column where the ignition lock is has been boogered up bad as it looks like someone lost the keys at one point. The only way to put a lock/tumbler back in it is to buy a replacement column...im not wanting to do that.. I really want to install a universal in dash ignition switch to see if I can get this thing running. What wires do I need to look for and what goes where as far as wiring up one of these universal ignition switches.
Also somewhere during the life of this vehicle, the starter solenoid on the firewall went missing. I have a replacement and was wondering if anyone had a schematic, diagram or picture of how the solenoid is wired. Thanks in advance. |
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#2 |
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I used to know this stuff
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yo AZ,
I'm sure this post will be moved to the Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone! soon, so look for it there. Wiring Diagram in an 84 (SLOW to LOAD) Source: by toddcomputer @ http://web.archive.org/web/201012201...g/1Graphic.htm compare to; Wiring Diagram in an 84 Bronco & F Series Section 2 Source: by Chilton http://content.chiltonsonline.com/co.../85766114l.gif Push Button Start Installation in a 93 (modify for your year) Source: by Destructive Mechanic at FSB http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=183531
__________________
96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs USN (Ret) & MIL/DoD Contingency Planner (ret) THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE! my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ http://web.archive.org/web/201209211....com/index.php |
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#3 | ||
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AKA: Butthead
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gadsden Purchase
Posts: 2,880
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
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Quote:
For the detractors... Talked to a guy that'd been convicted of grand theft auto and he said: "no one will want mess around trying to steal a vehicle that's had the ignition system changed around, they already have a plan worked out and don't want to take the time to figure out any 'monkeyedwithshit'" My Bronco looked safe to him, it looked plenty "monkeyed with". LOL :) -but!- my Bronco looks junky (and I want it that way). Anything can get stolen and I've known where a couple old VWs got stolen and never seen again that it was obvious as anything the owner/builder was being watched and when they got the sucker built up really-fancy that they were stolen at a certain-point just as they were getting it finished up. That was in Sacramento. ------------------ There were some bigger wires running to the column mounted ignition switch on my '91 Bronco than ran to the dash mounted switch I had in hand, so I didn't chance it and bought some relays to carry the current. For the most part, my dash ignition switch just operates those relays. I open the ground side of those relays with a kill switch. A kill switch kept my '75 F150 from being stolen at-least-twice. But it's wired to open the main power wire coming into the cab. Found out the crazy truck could be run with the dome light on! LOL :) I fiNgured out a way around that and it was done. One thing about automotive wiring... it ain't straight forward, it's been "stream lined" to the max. If they could save running a wire they did it. Quote:
This type of starter that needs a relay... http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/starters351w.jpg ...or this type... http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/starterDelco.jpg ....that's got a starter solenoid mounted on it so no-need for a relay. Alvin in AZ |
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cochise County Az
Posts: 28
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 84 Bronco XLT, originally a 302-2v, now a 351c 2v.3.55 LSD front and rear
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I just reread my post about the solenoid and see that I said the solenoid was mounted on the fire wall...I meant fenderwell near the battery. Mine is like the first pic that was posted.As far a someone stealing it...no worries...its easy enough to pop the dizzy cap and pull the rotor. Won't take up much room in my pocket...
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#5 |
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Fullsize Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Rolling Hills Estates, CA
Posts: 7,720
iTrader: (1) Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI, MSD cap, rotor, 48kv coil, 9mm FMSR wires
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Doesn't the key cylinder "pop out", from the metal column collar, mine does....?
There a slot just below it and with the key in RUN, engine off using a sharp tool push up hard and the whole thing comes out..check out this thread for reference maybe it will help give you some idea... http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ad.php?t=70454 Buy a Motorcraft or Bosch "starter relay" for the right inside fender mount along with new battery cables AND put an 850CAA battery on your wish list, the BKO will thank you everyday..... www.broncolinks.com should have diagrams you need to hook up correctly.... Good Luck ~
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#6 | ||
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AKA: Butthead
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gadsden Purchase
Posts: 2,880
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
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Quote:
is a "Chevy thing" seems to me, because they never used a starter-relay, I ever heard of. But heard -plenty- about the starter-solenoids on all other vehicles besides Fords. Hmmm... never -heard- anything good about starter solenoids now that I think about it... it either works or it gets bad-mouthed, I guess? LOL :) Quote:
The big positive battery wire can't go straight to this type of starter because it'd run full-blast all the time, it needs a starter relay... ![]() ...so what's keeping yours from running all the time? Your positive battery cable just hanging there and not connected to anything right now? :) Alvin in AZ |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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if you look at your column under the dash the ign switch[electrical part] is a white rectangular box with a large connector and some large wires. test it to find what wires are power and what are going out with the key in different positions[i know no key but just move the rod part you will figure it out] you can then figure how to wire it up. you could use a few toggles for acc and run and a momentary on switch for the starter and or some keyed switched set up. make sure to use swithces rated for the loads.
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cochise County Az
Posts: 28
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 84 Bronco XLT, originally a 302-2v, now a 351c 2v.3.55 LSD front and rear
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Heres what I am dealing with as far as the column and where the ignition cylinder is "Supposed" to go.
Based on what can be seen...is this saveable by putting in a new lock cylinder or should I opt to go for wiring in a switch and starter button?
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#9 |
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Forward Some Money
![]() Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ohio, heart of
Posts: 3,256
iTrader: (5) Bronco Info: '89 Bronco, 5.8, MAF, Summit shorties, Bassani SS, AOD, Tru-trac posi, Stocker
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You have several choices......
1) replace the column 2) replace just the collar that's destroyed (and any internal parts) 3) other. Funny, when you suggest calling a locksmith, most people don't want to spend the money. So, this is what you end up with .....a f' up column.
__________________
Click HERE to visit my frame-off NOS restoration thread. Photobucket Album ....and a crap load of pictures.... |
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#10 |
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Fullsize Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Rolling Hills Estates, CA
Posts: 7,720
iTrader: (1) Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI, MSD cap, rotor, 48kv coil, 9mm FMSR wires
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Go to the JY or Broncograveyard and find another column collar, you'll have to tear down the steering column a bit and remove some parts inside the collar but NBD.... what's the most it can cost, cheaper then replacing the entire column no?
Good Luck ~
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#11 | |
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AKA: Butthead
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gadsden Purchase
Posts: 2,880
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
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Quote:
![]() You have no idea what really happened there. The damage might have started with a thief. Might have been a-problem-over-looked because of the lack of money/job. And/or might have been away from any sort of help when it finally failed. Hard to image that last one for people in the rust-belt where it's crowded? ;) -------------------------------- All I know is this is what I started with (sissyassedbrokentiltcrap!;)... ![]() Got the column from the manual truck ('90 F250) and it had that stinkin' button you gotta push to take the key out! :( Who comes up with this stuff? LOL :) I can kill my old pickup (and my Bronco too now) and come rolling to a stop where "border guards" and/or other fellow citizens are standing around. I come rolling up nice and quiet for 'em. YMMV on that desire? "did it die? :)" -Border Pee-Troll guy asks that sometimes AZ, you can remove that "key cylinder hood/boss/bump" thing with a hoof rasp, it's just sorry old cast zinc (the blue color in both our pics is a dead-give-away for zinc)... ![]() I've got a cool looking thin black hard plastic piece of tubing to slip over the column, just hadn't got around to finishing it yet. That '91 Bronco is the newest vehicle I'll ever own! No air bags for this guy... Thank you very much. x] I got a lap belt that holds my butt in the seat like my old pickup's belt does. The shoulder strap is of no use to me until after I wreck. The seat belt holding my butt in the seat has proved itself (more than once!) to prevent the accident to start with. No kidding on that one. Besides the seat belt makes my back feel better on a long trip too. :) So it's a safety double-whammy... "driver fatigue is the number one killer in the country" -gov't back when Alvin in AZ |
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#12 |
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Forward Some Money
![]() Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ohio, heart of
Posts: 3,256
iTrader: (5) Bronco Info: '89 Bronco, 5.8, MAF, Summit shorties, Bassani SS, AOD, Tru-trac posi, Stocker
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__________________
Click HERE to visit my frame-off NOS restoration thread. Photobucket Album ....and a crap load of pictures.... |
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#13 |
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Fullsize Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Rolling Hills Estates, CA
Posts: 7,720
iTrader: (1) Bronco Info: 1986 Bronco XLT 4x4 -AOD -Warn Hubs, NEW stock 302EFI, MSD cap, rotor, 48kv coil, 9mm FMSR wires
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Great pics and find, the 3rd picture shows the inside compartment for the "lower actuator" that mates with the "brass drive gear" inside which isn't shown in bronco boys 1985 actuator post but it loops on the upper ignition actuator...NBD....just know that it's there and it only slides out forward.
Good Luck ~
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cochise County Az
Posts: 28
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 84 Bronco XLT, originally a 302-2v, now a 351c 2v.3.55 LSD front and rear
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So today I went to a pick a part yard and pulled the collar off a floor shifted, manual tranny 82 F-150, non tilt column. The steering wheel was already off. Had to work a bit to get the snap ring holding it to the shaft off. Then I had to lower the column to get the rod out of the electrical portion of the switch. At least I know somewhat how this comes apart now.
Now the million dollar question...did I get the right one? Even if I didn't...it only set me back $7.50 Heres some pics... ![]() ![]()
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cochise County Az
Posts: 28
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 84 Bronco XLT, originally a 302-2v, now a 351c 2v.3.55 LSD front and rear
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Well today I dug in to replace the collar.Looked WAY WAY more complicated than it really is. Was a total cinch. I'd be willing to open a business replacing these collars if I could...that's really odd for me to say as I HATE working on other peoples stuff. I have full confidence doing these, however...tilt column or automatic...well I can't say I'd be comfortable doing those as I've never done one. I'd do the one like mine all day long...its easy, just don't over think things.
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