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#1 | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Posts: 526
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: '89 Bronco XLT. Front clip swap. 351 w/ C6. 4" lift
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Stronger interior door handles?
So when I first got my Bronco it didn't have a drivers side interior door handle. Got home and ordered a cheapo one off ebay. It felt flimsy and bent alot when I'd open the door but whatever I had it might as well use. Would probably be more to ship it back anyhow. So it lasted for a month or so before snapping the other day. Didn't bug me because as I said it was a cheapo off ebay and I kind of expected. But then I went and got a Doorman from Advance and that snapped on the second day! What the hell? Is there some better one that I can get somewhere?
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Covington, funtucky
Posts: 882
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: F150 ext cab, 5.8 auto/ 96 bronco 5.8 MAF with E4ohishitmyself pushy button 4x4
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what are you doing with your door handles is what i want to know
the graveyard has em for cheaper then 10 bucks their fine as far as i know
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"The definiton of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results." Albert Einstein obviously he shouldve used a bigger hammer ![]() |
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#4 |
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Fullsize Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Emerald, PA
Posts: 1,979
iTrader: (8) Bronco Info: 94 C150, 351/zf,5"lift,35" xterains,flow40, mac headers,sag swap, elec fan, 4WDB
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I always bought replacements strait from ford parts counter. Figure they lasted 15 years before breaking.
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![]() Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825 |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 32,164
iTrader: (98) Bronco Info: '83 VIN & title on '93 frame/body w/'95 4.9L & EB paint
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FIRST: try fixing the problem. Obviously, the latch is binding, causing extra force to be necessary on the handle. Align the door. Clean & lube the latch. Repair the inside handle's mounting point on the door skin. Adjust the linkage.
THEN replace the handle. I hate chrome, so I had some old metal ones powdercoated black to look like the newer plastic ones. |
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#6 | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Posts: 526
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: '89 Bronco XLT. Front clip swap. 351 w/ C6. 4" lift
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What year Broncos had the metal ones? 70s and early 80s?
And Steve the door opens and closes fine. No resistance, not sagging
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#7 | ||
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*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Livonia Michigan
Posts: 5,961
iTrader: (41) Bronco Info: 1995 Eddie Bauer 357w, E303 cam on S/D, Warn premium hubs, 3 inch exhaust with flowmaster 40
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~ Scott ~ ~ Ford's, please bring back the Bronco!! ~ ~ My Exhaust clip on YouTube ~ 203k on the odometer and no longer a daily driver. ~ ~ Bronco owner/Driver/Mechanic/Enthusiast for 21 years ~
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#8 |
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I used to know this stuff
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yo
Door Handle, Inside Left 1980-96 Item #34370 - New 1980-96 Ford Bronco 1980-97 Ford F100, F150, F250, F350 Drivers Side Chrome Chrome metal,will also fit 1987-96 Our Price: $8.00 http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...t-1980-96.html Inside Door Handle, Right 1980-96 Item #34368 - New 1980-96 Ford Bronco 1980-97 Ford F100, F150, F250, F350 Passenger Side Chrome Chrome metal,will also fit 1987-96 Our Price: $8.00 http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...t-1980-96.html
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96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs USN (Ret) & MIL/DoD Contingency Planner (ret) THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE! my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ http://web.archive.org/web/201209211....com/index.php |
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#9 |
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AKA: Butthead
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gadsden Purchase
Posts: 2,843
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
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A few weeks ago a I noticed a slight "catch" to the driver's inside door
handle. If it were to be allowed to get worse I could see where the handle could get broken. ?? Anyway, it was just the "sliding link" part of the inside door handle mechanism, it was as if it was past-center and trying to bind up. But since I was already in process of stiffing-up the floppy inner door skin I figured out a fix for the new problem at the same time. The easy way is to just move the whole mechanism toward the front/hinges, there's room in the holes. ---------------------------------------------- Sackman, I started a thread on FTE -asking- about bracing the inner door skin but it went no where. :/ So I figured out how to do it myself and posted the results and got no comments. LOL :) It shot down all the ideas posted, none of which showed an understanding of what I was complaining about to start with. Anyway, here it is copy and pasted... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Popped riveted (like I meant business;) a piece of 1/2" square pipe inside the door shell... ![]() Lined it up with the extra screws I'd put in to hold up the flimsy pocket so now they actually have some "real metal" to screw into... ![]() Check out those two extra screws in the carpet they made a big difference in how sloppy the pocket is and have another screw in the front-end too. Also added a couple more braces... ![]() ![]() Those felt like they added strength to the door skin but wasn't so sure until after I worked on the passenger door and installed those first! LOL :) --------------------------------------- And fixed the squirrelly feeling door handles too, while I was at it... ![]() ![]() It now sounds nice and solid like my '75 150's doors. And the door handles feel like they're actually screwed down to something. {Sackman, the nut under the "9.8 bolt" there has got a large diameter Belleville washer on it, so acts-like the steel plate you added to yours} {but it wasn't enough to suit me :/ the added little bolt with the head filed down was what really made it stop wiggling on the sheet metal} {the braces made the whole sheet of metal feel more solid so it's a double whammy LOL xD } {the little bolt with the head filed down is a 3/8" headed, grade-8, 1/4"-28 self tapping bolt I just happen to have two of, but i drilled 1/4"+ holes for them to slide into in both the mechanism and the door skin ;} {a tapered-reamer makes the holes nice and round} {the little machine screw at the rear is a 10-32 and the tab at the rear of the mechanism is tapped 10-32 and also added a nut behind, I'm figuring on replacing those with grade-8, button-head Allen screws someday ??} ---------------------- Now onto the flimsily-held-on plastic door panels! :) Thinking about jack-nuts and screws along with filling their empty "hook pockets" in the door panels' Christmas tree sockets so the jack-nuts' machine screws won't smash the crap out of 'em. ;) The door panels are glue-able plastic so there's lots of ways to go there. :) Alvin in AZ ps- Jack nuts are like "moly-bolts" for sheet-rock but're for sheet metal... ![]() ![]() ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ "It now sounds nice and solid like my '75 150's doors." -Alvin Believe it? LOL :) |
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 123
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1988 Ford Bronco XLT 351W, ignition upgrade and some interior mods.
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My drivers side door handle has been feeling weird lately and somtimes it takes 2 pulls to get the door open. The first seems to 1/2 unlatch it and the second time gets it open. I kept meaning to get in there and see what was causing that.....then it broke. Now I have to get a new handle and figure it out. Alvin's post gave me some good ideas while I'm in there. Thanks
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I'm never down.....I'm either up or I'm getting up! |
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#11 | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oconomowoc, WI
Posts: 526
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: '89 Bronco XLT. Front clip swap. 351 w/ C6. 4" lift
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