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Old 12-13-2012, 04:41 PM   #1
Ocelot
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Unhappy Tailgate Window won't go down

91 Ford Bronco, Tailgate Window will not go down. I have replaced both circuit breakers, and examined the connection to the window motor which looks good. I don't have a repair manual so I am a little lost as to what my next step should be.

Please Help.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:01 PM   #2
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Welcome!! Step one.... check fuses.. I know you replaced them but check with a meter. They could open the second you hit the switch.
Good Luck.
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:19 PM   #3
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The power windows are still working fine, and since they use the same fuse I don't think thats it.

I also don't have a meter to test with, nor the means (atm) to procure one...

TY for the quick reply though.
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:24 PM   #4
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here is a good starting point: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...archid=4811831
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:39 PM   #5
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A digital multimeter can be had new for as little as $10; have you looked at your local pawn shops, garage sales, & 2ndhand stores? Trying to diagnose an electrical fault without one is like trying to drive cross-country without fuel. Click my black Bronco in my signature & read the captions in the Tailgate Tech album.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:02 PM   #6
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I had this issue recently. There is a switch in the tailgate that only allows the window to operate if the tailgate is completely closed. On mine, the tailgate will latch and seem closed but if I don't slam it to the second "click", the window won't go up (or down). Apparently the tailgate had shaken open to just the first "click ", and the window wouldn't go down. I tried throwing my shoulder into it a couple of times to no avail. I ended up backing the truck up to the house and actually had to give it a little gas while holding the switch down, and down the window went. Opened up the tailgate, slammed it closed, no more problems.

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Old 12-14-2012, 10:43 AM   #7
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Sloride75 is right. I have the same issue with my 92
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:47 AM   #8
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I had this problem when i first bought my truck. The window was going up to high and the window slides would pop off the track. Problem was they are t round they are square and when the would get to the end of the track they would turn 1/8 which held it in the up position.
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloride75 View Post
I had this issue recently. There is a switch in the tailgate that only allows the window to operate if the tailgate is completely closed. On mine, the tailgate will latch and seem closed but if I don't slam it to the second "click", the window won't go up (or down). Apparently the tailgate had shaken open to just the first "click ", and the window wouldn't go down. I tried throwing my shoulder into it a couple of times to no avail. I ended up backing the truck up to the house and actually had to give it a little gas while holding the switch down, and down the window went. Opened up the tailgate, slammed it closed, no more problems.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using AutoGuide.Com Free App
OK!! Go to Steve83's sig. and click the black Bronco, find the "Tailgate Tech" area, find how to adjust the tailgate. Make all the adjustments and all is right with the world. Now go have a beer and enjoy the read!!
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:38 AM   #10
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Hello All,

Thank you for your links and tips! As you can tell I am a fairly new to the herd. I just wanted to give an update; that I will be tackling the tailgate again today and hopefully acquiring a meter, and will post the results in a few hours. I am pretty positive its just the latch, and we shall see.
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:51 PM   #11
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Tailgate Insides

I removed the inside panel on the tailgate, and here are some pictures.






The wires in the second one from the bottom, from right to left are 1.) Blue Black that I don't know what it does 2.) 'Jump" which I believe is wired in replace of the safety latch wiring 3. Wire running to the motor

Tried to jump the #2 wire with a paper clip with the key in 2nd, no success. The wiring seems to be good on everything else.

Possibly the motor is bad, there seems to be a tiny crack or tear in the seal on the side farthest away in the photo.

I hear clicking near the motor in the tailgate, and in the dash, when the button on the dash is pressed both up and down. If this is a relay, I don't know where it is.

I looked over and read every caption on Steve83's Tailgate Tech. I still have not acquired a meter. I also haven't been able to back the truck up onto a steep incline.

Thank you for helping me figure this out.
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:28 PM   #12
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There is no relay in the stock t/g motor circuit. I don't see a Bu/Bk wire in any of those pics. I see a Br/LB in the 3rd one. And if you read all those captions, you should have seen these:

.

PUT YOUR TRUCK'S DETAILS IN YOUR PROFILE & SIGNATURE so we don't have to keep scrolling back thru the thread to find out what you're working on. This caption explains how to find all the info:

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Old 12-16-2012, 12:34 PM   #13
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Here is my VIN decoded, is the signature option only available for members?

I will include a condensed version of this information in every post hereafter.

The glass safety latch for me is behind the window track in the fourth picture, I can't rightly see if its still connected.

******************************************
World Manufacturer Identifier - 1st, 2nd, 3rd Positions
VIN Code: 1FM
Assembly Country: UNITED STATES
Make: Ford
Body Style: Sport Utility Vehicle
Restraint System Type (Passenger Cars) or Brake Type and GVWR Class (Trucks and Vans) - 4th Position
VIN Code: E
Brake System: STANDARD
GVWR Class:
Restraint: ACTIVE (MANUAL) BELTS
GVWR Range: 6,001 - 10,000 Pounds
Line,Series Body Type - 5th, 6th, 7th Positions
VIN Code: U15
Vehicle Line: Bronco
Series: U100
Vehicle Type: Truck
Engine Type - 8th Position
VIN Code: H
Engine: 5.8 L
Cylinders: 8
Fuel: Gasoline
Model Year - 10th Position
VIN Code: M
Model Year: 1991
Assembly Plant - 11th Position
VIN Code: L
Assembly Plant: MICHIGAN TRUCKS, MICHIGAN
Production Sequence Number - 12th - 17th
VIN Code: A12774
Prod Sequence Number A12774
Additional Information
Wheel Axles Wheelbase 210.0
**********************************************
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:36 PM   #14
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Scroll to the top of any page, click QUICK LINKS, then click EDIT SIGNATURE.

The VIN breakdown only indicates how the truck was built, which is good for us to know. But we ALSO need to know what its CURRENT condition is, so don't be shy about describing significant mods in your signature. Rim size doesn't really matter, but tire size can; paint, stereo, & bling generally don't matter, unless they involve wiring mods. So of all that info above, the only part that needs to be in your pofile & sig is '91 5.8L. Re-read the 2nd paragraph in that caption. You don't have to tell us it's a Bronco, or that it was made by Ford - we assume that.
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Old 12-23-2012, 12:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocelot View Post
Hello All,

Thank you for your links and tips! As you can tell I am a fairly new to the herd. I just wanted to give an update; that I will be tackling the tailgate again today and hopefully acquiring a meter, and will post the results in a few hours. I am pretty positive its just the latch, and we shall see.
Was in Lows saw a meter for $10.00. This is not the only project you will use the meter for.
Good Luck!! Sean
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:14 PM   #16
Johan The Impailer
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Had the same problem,not being closed all the way was the issue. Now I make sure it is closed before I beg for it to open
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