Yet another noise thread

**desertdog** · 12-18-2012, 09:23 PM

Coming home the other night i noticed a whining/chirping noise coming from underneath at speeds less than 45.

I put Bucky on jacks and let it idle in gear to pinpoint the source of the noise and sure enough it sounds like its coming from the transfer case.....and only happens when the drive train is rotating and speeds up with the rpms.

First thing i check the fluid in the transfer case, and of course its full...so what the hell could it be?

**JBfab** · 12-18-2012, 09:41 PM

Maybe your tc pump took a dump. Or the pump excentric spun and tore the rubber pump line.

**desertdog** · 12-18-2012, 09:42 PM

So would the noise be coming from friction due to lack of lube?

**JBfab** · 12-18-2012, 10:00 PM

Its a possibility. Ive had one go and it lasted about 200 more miles when after i relized there was a problem. Had to get home. The only way to save them for awile longer if this is the case. Is to remove the tcase and over fill it with fluid. But again this is only temporary.

I belive you can shine a flash light into the fill hole and spot the pump line. Or drain it and inspect for chunks of hose or metal from the pump excentric. If you dont find an issue it only cost you a few dollars in fluid.

**desertdog** · 12-18-2012, 10:20 PM

Lets say the pump has failed, should i just hit the junk yard or go for the rebuild?

**JBfab** · 12-18-2012, 11:06 PM

If it is the pump. I would open up yours and see if it wa the arm itself that went. Or see if it wore threw the grove it sits in. Either of which can be fixed with a rebuild. But if it ate threw the grove your going to have to weld an flat on the end of the pump ex. I would anyways it helps alot. Theres a tech write up on rebuilding these tc's. they are super easy only thing is make sure you have a good pair of snap ring pliers.

**desertdog** · 12-23-2012, 05:45 PM

Any tips on pulling the TC? Anything special tools or tips before i go for it?

**JBfab** · 12-23-2012, 06:25 PM

Drain it using a 3/8 ratchet and extension. You need a 12pt 12mm wrench for the rear drive shaft bolts. I belive the same wrench will work for the front drive shaft, when you pull the u-bolts out wrap some tape on around the universal caps. This will keep them in place and save some agrivation, i use electrical tape so the caps dont stick to the tape when i pull it off. Disconnect all electrical connections, ie 4x indicator light, electric motor wiring if it is electric shift, vss connector on tailshaft if equiped. Pull the spring clip strait out of the speed sensor and pull the cable strait out (if equipped). If its man shift take a pry bar and pop the linkage off at the t case. Find the breather tube and remove it from the uclip its in then its six bolts 13mm iirc and no worries it wont just fall on ya so take them all out. Then wiggle it loose while pulling it twards the rear of the truck and use caution it weighs about 75lbs or so. Not to heavy but okward.

**desertdog** · 12-23-2012, 10:09 PM

Excellent, thanks!

**desertdog** · 12-25-2012, 03:26 PM

There is a guy locally selling a AOD transmission and transfer case out of a 95 FSB.
He doesn't know the model of transfer case and is only asking $100

If i just took the transfer case would it work? anyone know?

**JBfab** · 12-25-2012, 05:43 PM

It will bolt up. But what year did it come out of? And is it manual shift or electric. If you have electric you need to get the mount on the side of the trans shifter/boot and linkage to make it all work. If its the same t case doesnt have the speedo output and yours did you could always use it for parts.

If it were me id just open up yours and see whats going on. Rebuild kits are usually under $100 anyways. And some parts can be bought seperate.

**desertdog** · 01-04-2013, 10:21 PM

Ok, i pulled the transfer case......but noticed i needed to pull the spindle nuts (shaft nut) off before i can get to the speedo gear and so forth. Doing a little research i read a 1.25 in 6 sided socket works.....but without luck it just seems that the socket walls are too thick, i also tried a 32 mm socket with the same problem.

Does anyone know what kind of socket i need to pull this nut off? 89 FSB 5.8w BW1356 TC C6 Trans

**desertdog** · 01-06-2013, 09:12 PM

I read on another forum that i might have to track down a 32mm NON IMPACT socket! with thinner walls. Anyone else have success with these?

12-18-2012, 09:23 PM	#1
desertdog Fullsize Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SL, UT Posts: 103 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 89 351W rebuilt 55k miles, 3G swap, relocated TFI, cherry bomb exhaust, 6 inch pro comp lift' 33's	Yet another noise thread Coming home the other night i noticed a whining/chirping noise coming from underneath at speeds less than 45. I put Bucky on jacks and let it idle in gear to pinpoint the source of the noise and sure enough it sounds like its coming from the transfer case.....and only happens when the drive train is rotating and speeds up with the rpms. First thing i check the fluid in the transfer case, and of course its full...so what the hell could it be?

12-18-2012, 09:41 PM	#2
JBfab Fullsize Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Emerald, PA Posts: 1,973 iTrader: (8) Bronco Info: 94 C150, 351/zf,5"lift,35" xterains,flow40, mac headers,sag swap, elec fan, 4WDB	Maybe your tc pump took a dump. Or the pump excentric spun and tore the rubber pump line. __________________ It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog! Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825

12-18-2012, 10:00 PM	#4
JBfab Fullsize Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Emerald, PA Posts: 1,973 iTrader: (8) Bronco Info: 94 C150, 351/zf,5"lift,35" xterains,flow40, mac headers,sag swap, elec fan, 4WDB	Its a possibility. Ive had one go and it lasted about 200 more miles when after i relized there was a problem. Had to get home. The only way to save them for awile longer if this is the case. Is to remove the tcase and over fill it with fluid. But again this is only temporary. I belive you can shine a flash light into the fill hole and spot the pump line. Or drain it and inspect for chunks of hose or metal from the pump excentric. If you dont find an issue it only cost you a few dollars in fluid. __________________ It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog! Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825

12-18-2012, 11:06 PM	#6
JBfab Fullsize Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Emerald, PA Posts: 1,973 iTrader: (8) Bronco Info: 94 C150, 351/zf,5"lift,35" xterains,flow40, mac headers,sag swap, elec fan, 4WDB	If it is the pump. I would open up yours and see if it wa the arm itself that went. Or see if it wore threw the grove it sits in. Either of which can be fixed with a rebuild. But if it ate threw the grove your going to have to weld an flat on the end of the pump ex. I would anyways it helps alot. Theres a tech write up on rebuilding these tc's. they are super easy only thing is make sure you have a good pair of snap ring pliers. __________________ It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog! Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825

12-23-2012, 06:25 PM	#8
JBfab Fullsize Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Emerald, PA Posts: 1,973 iTrader: (8) Bronco Info: 94 C150, 351/zf,5"lift,35" xterains,flow40, mac headers,sag swap, elec fan, 4WDB	Drain it using a 3/8 ratchet and extension. You need a 12pt 12mm wrench for the rear drive shaft bolts. I belive the same wrench will work for the front drive shaft, when you pull the u-bolts out wrap some tape on around the universal caps. This will keep them in place and save some agrivation, i use electrical tape so the caps dont stick to the tape when i pull it off. Disconnect all electrical connections, ie 4x indicator light, electric motor wiring if it is electric shift, vss connector on tailshaft if equiped. Pull the spring clip strait out of the speed sensor and pull the cable strait out (if equipped). If its man shift take a pry bar and pop the linkage off at the t case. Find the breather tube and remove it from the uclip its in then its six bolts 13mm iirc and no worries it wont just fall on ya so take them all out. Then wiggle it loose while pulling it twards the rear of the truck and use caution it weighs about 75lbs or so. Not to heavy but okward. __________________ It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog! Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825

12-18-2012, 09:42 PM	#3
desertdog Fullsize Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SL, UT Posts: 103 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 89 351W rebuilt 55k miles, 3G swap, relocated TFI, cherry bomb exhaust, 6 inch pro comp lift' 33's	So would the noise be coming from friction due to lack of lube?

12-18-2012, 10:20 PM	#5
desertdog Fullsize Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SL, UT Posts: 103 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 89 351W rebuilt 55k miles, 3G swap, relocated TFI, cherry bomb exhaust, 6 inch pro comp lift' 33's	Lets say the pump has failed, should i just hit the junk yard or go for the rebuild?

12-23-2012, 05:45 PM	#7
desertdog Fullsize Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SL, UT Posts: 103 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 89 351W rebuilt 55k miles, 3G swap, relocated TFI, cherry bomb exhaust, 6 inch pro comp lift' 33's	Any tips on pulling the TC? Anything special tools or tips before i go for it?

12-23-2012, 10:09 PM	#9
desertdog Fullsize Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SL, UT Posts: 103 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 89 351W rebuilt 55k miles, 3G swap, relocated TFI, cherry bomb exhaust, 6 inch pro comp lift' 33's	Excellent, thanks!

12-25-2012, 03:26 PM	#10
desertdog Fullsize Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SL, UT Posts: 103 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 89 351W rebuilt 55k miles, 3G swap, relocated TFI, cherry bomb exhaust, 6 inch pro comp lift' 33's	There is a guy locally selling a AOD transmission and transfer case out of a 95 FSB. He doesn't know the model of transfer case and is only asking $100 If i just took the transfer case would it work? anyone know?

12-25-2012, 05:43 PM	#11
JBfab Fullsize Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Emerald, PA Posts: 1,973 iTrader: (8) Bronco Info: 94 C150, 351/zf,5"lift,35" xterains,flow40, mac headers,sag swap, elec fan, 4WDB	It will bolt up. But what year did it come out of? And is it manual shift or electric. If you have electric you need to get the mount on the side of the trans shifter/boot and linkage to make it all work. If its the same t case doesnt have the speedo output and yours did you could always use it for parts. If it were me id just open up yours and see whats going on. Rebuild kits are usually under $100 anyways. And some parts can be bought seperate. __________________ It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog! Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825

01-04-2013, 10:21 PM	#12
desertdog Fullsize Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SL, UT Posts: 103 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 89 351W rebuilt 55k miles, 3G swap, relocated TFI, cherry bomb exhaust, 6 inch pro comp lift' 33's	Ok, i pulled the transfer case......but noticed i needed to pull the spindle nuts (shaft nut) off before i can get to the speedo gear and so forth. Doing a little research i read a 1.25 in 6 sided socket works.....but without luck it just seems that the socket walls are too thick, i also tried a 32 mm socket with the same problem. Does anyone know what kind of socket i need to pull this nut off? 89 FSB 5.8w BW1356 TC C6 Trans Last edited by desertdog; 01-04-2013 at 11:32 PM. Reason: added pics

01-06-2013, 09:12 PM	#13
desertdog Fullsize Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: SL, UT Posts: 103 iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 89 351W rebuilt 55k miles, 3G swap, relocated TFI, cherry bomb exhaust, 6 inch pro comp lift' 33's	I read on another forum that i might have to track down a 32mm NON IMPACT socket! with thinner walls. Anyone else have success with these?

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