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Old 01-02-2013, 07:21 PM   #1
whiteboysbronco
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My bronco is killing me help

Well I just got back from overseas and went to start the truck and I popped a code. So I replaced my tps and it fixed the idel problem but now when I put it into drive it act like it want to die and not enough power to drive forward. But any other gear works great... Any one local in wa that could help me figure this out I could use the help....if not I might just sell it
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:25 PM   #2
lifeizhard102205
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swap in a manual. cures ALL auto problems. lol. but seriously it sounds like something is wrong with the trans. i dont know about auto's to really guide you here. sorry. but if you wanna swap in a zf 5 speed i have a killer thread on that...haha.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:41 PM   #3
Alvin in AZ
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Originally Posted by lifeizhard102205 View Post
swap in a manual. cures ALL auto problems. lol.
x2 and a hacksaw and hoof-rasp can fix -any- choke problems. ;)

You did good messing with the TPS but what about the IAC?

Miesk (and Steve's prob'ly got 'em too) has posted Ford's
complete procedure for working on both those that includes
adjusting the throttle body's stop even. Familiar with those? :)

Get the engine running right and if that don't clear it up there's
E4od electrical problems that mimic a dead auto transmission.

It's been sitting, what in the heck did you expect? :/

Alvin in AZ
ps- MAP problems was mentioned in another thread, what's its
symptoms?
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:57 PM   #4
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What kind of codes is it throwing at you? It could be the shift solenoid going in the Tranny, if so then all you have to do is drop the pan and replace it. But pull codes first and post them here so we can help you diagnose it.




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Old 01-02-2013, 08:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvin in AZ View Post
You did good messing with the TPS but what about the IAC?

Miesk (and Steve's prob'ly got 'em too) has posted Ford's
complete procedure for working on both those that includes
adjusting the throttle body's stop even. Familiar with those? :)

Get the engine running right and if that don't clear it up there's
E4od electrical problems that mimic a dead auto transmission.

It's been sitting, what in the heck did you expect? :/

Alvin in AZ
ps- MAP problems was mentioned in another thread, what's its
symptoms?
x2 on this

When I bought mine the tranny was all messed up with shifting and other weird little gremlins. Figured I would have to replace it soon.

Fixed a bunch of other motor gremlins, like IAC, TPS, PCV valve, vacuum leaks and a few other things that I can't recall that were all pretty cheap fixes.
Cleared up all the running issues and codes and presto magically all my transmission issues disappeared.

Now I am pretty confident my transmission will run me fine for several more years.

Make sure it is all running like it's supposed to before you mess with the transmission. Unless of course you have tons of money and like to chase parts.
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:06 AM   #6
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yo WB (play that funky music)
What was the Code that led you to replacing TPS?
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.co..._mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50 F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180 F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.


To minimize the replacement of good components, be advised that the following non-EEC areas may be the issue:
Excessive blow-by
PCV malfunction
Vacuum leaks
Fuel pressure
Throttle sticking or linkage binding.


-
This is by Ford;

1996 All F-Series and Bronco with E4OD Automatic Transmission Workshop Manual
I chose;
Shift Concerns: No 1st Gear In Drive, Engages In Higher Gear
215 - ELECTRICAL ROUTINE
Electrical inputs/outputs, vehicle wiring harnesses, powertrain control module, shift solenoid 1, shift solenoid 2, transmission range sensor
Run On-Board Diagnostics (this is the Self Test)

315 - HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE
Shift Linkage (Internal/External) or Cables, Transmission Range (TR) Sensor
Damaged, not connected, misadjusted
Inspect and service as required. Verify linkage adjustment as outlined. After servicing linkage, verify that the transmission range (TR) - also called Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLPS/TR) Sensor is properly adjusted. Refer to In-Vehicle Service in this section.

Main Controls (valve body)
Bolts not tightened to specification
Retighten bolts to specification.

Gaskets damaged, misaligned
Inspect for damage and replace.

Shift solenoid 1, shift solenoid 2 stuck or damaged
Refer to Electrical Routine No. 215.

Solenoid regulator valve, 2-3 shift valve, 3-4 shift valve, D2 valve � stuck, missing, misassembled, damaged
Inspect for damage. Service as required.

Air bleeds for S1-S2 circuits missing
Inspect for damage. Replace case.

Wrong components used in rebuild
Verify that proper components were used. Service as required.

Mechanical
Band servo, clutches damaged
Refer to proper disassembly procedures in this section.

For diagnosis related to a specific gear, use Transmission Tester to determine gear Refer to the following routine(s) for further diagnosis
No Shift 1-2, Routine 220/320
No Shift 2-3, Routine 221/321
No Shift 3-4, Routine 222/322
Reverse Ring Gear
Damaged gear lugs to reverse carrier
Inspect for damage. Service as required.

Low One-Way Clutch
Damaged, misassembled
Inspect for damage, proper assembly. Service as required
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:24 PM   #7
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Haha dam you guys are great and fast... But to answer your questions my first code was a 63.. So that les me to the Tps.. I took the throttle body of and cleaned it with sea foam...then replaced the tps.. Which sucks because it was stuck lol... I got a new gasket then put it back togather and it started fine and was running great but as soon as I put it into drive the rpms went crazy and the battery gauge went nuts... But as soon as I put it into reverse it was fine and park was fine. It's only messes up in drive... When I hit the gas pedal it feels like no power and its about to die. I drive forward and hit the brake and it dies... So I don't know what sup with it.. I even spend 200 on a optima battery just incase...
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteboysbronco View Post
Haha dam you guys are great and fast... But to answer your questions my first code was a 63.. So that les me to the Tps.. I took the throttle body of and cleaned it with sea foam...then replaced the tps.. Which sucks because it was stuck lol... I got a new gasket then put it back togather and it started fine and was running great but as soon as I put it into drive the rpms went crazy and the battery gauge went nuts... But as soon as I put it into reverse it was fine and park was fine. It's only messes up in drive... When I hit the gas pedal it feels like no power and its about to die. I drive forward and hit the brake and it dies... So I don't know what sup with it.. I even spend 200 on a optima battery just incase...
Is there a ground strap from the motor to the body?

This is really just a general question for those who know more about the FI bronco's than I, but, a recent experience with a GMC Sonoma leads me to ask this question so that those people can help you. I did a motor swap on the GMC, and the ground strap broke while we were installing the new motor. Didn't think anything of it, forgot about it actually, and we started chasing this issue where the truck would run great in P, R, & N, but not in any forward gear. The torque on the drive-train in D was just enough to separate the ground strap, messing with the ECM and all sorts of sensors on the motor. In any other gear, the engine sat just perfect enough to make the connection and ran fine. Its a long shot, but, hey, I never thought it would happen to me either.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:14 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by riccnick View Post
...a recent experience with a GMC Sonoma...
...we started chasing this issue where the truck would run great in P, R, & N,
but not in any forward gear.
Cool post, I like anecdotes. :)

Wife got an estimate of $12{0}0 to 1600 "your transmission is DEAD :/"

Fixed it with this for less than $100...

...little Mercury transmission was in "limp home mode" that's all. :)

Alvin in AZ
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvin in AZ View Post
Cool post, I like anecdotes. :)

Wife got an estimate of $1220 to 1600 "your transmission is DEAD :/"

Fixed it with this for less than $100...

...little Mercury transmission was in "limp home mode" that's all. :)

Alvin in AZ
That's how AAMCO (All Automatics Must Come Out) rolls!
You can't get rich actually fixing what's wrong, you must rebuild the transmission!

I wonder of the thousands of transmissions replaced every year what % of them only required a minor repair to the vehicle?
So many people are getting totally F'ed over by these transmission shops.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:33 AM   #11
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I'm going to check the map sensor tomorrow and start with that... Then the IAC after that...can't hurt to replace it all... Any of you guys local or around Tacoma wa area
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:18 AM   #12
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteboysbronco View Post
I'm going to check the map sensor tomorrow and start with that... Then the IAC after that...can't hurt to replace it all... Any of you guys local or around Tacoma wa area
If its a original part that is not malfunctioning, I would not replace it for no reason. The parts stores sell junk compared to the original parts. I would rather get 3 IACs from a JY then one at autozzone.
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:07 PM   #14
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No need to sell the BKO, just listen to everybody and work thru the problem/s that's how you learn to wrench your own vehicle, save money and get a better understanding......I won't let anyone work on my BKO, I do it all myself thanks to this site.

I agree with not replacing parts if they don't need to but if you have to, get the best like Motorcraft etc.


Good Luck ~
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:31 PM   #15
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"My bronco is killing me help"
Ok cool, but just how do I help your Bronco finish your sorry ass off? :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JKossarides View Post
No need to sell the BKO, just listen to everybody and work thru the
problem/s that's how you learn to wrench your own vehicle, save money
and get a better understanding......I won't let anyone work on my BKO,
I do it all myself thanks to this site.
I agree with not replacing parts if they don't need to but if you have to,
get the best like Motorcraft etc.
Good Luck ~ :thumbup
x2 all that. :)

I disagree with Fartman tho. :/
As a libertarian I really hate to disagree with Fartman too. :/
But I generally do when it comes to stuff here. :/

Anyway a poster brought it up just the other day here on FSB, we'd both
never had good luck cleaning IAC's that been acting up. It's a good idea to
clean yours it'll make it act -better- prob'ly letting you know you're on the
right track and maybe even -fix- it in your case, but a new IAC was needed
to really make our rigs run right. I was working with 3 used factory IACs.

As far as Motorcraft... I don't know what all they actually-manufacture and
what they just had others re-label for them. Standard Motor Products made
a bunch of that stuff along with many other manufacturers. I pick that brand
first, had real good luck doing that since the late 70's.

Rockauto.com kicks butt always check prices there before buying parts. ;)
Rockauto carries Motorcraft whenever they can too, BTW.

The absolute -last- place I'll go is to a Ford stealership! #%&@ :/ YMMV?

Alvin in AZ
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:58 PM   #16
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I'd check the torque converter that's what it sounds like to me
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:43 PM   #17
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Well I got the bronco around the block but she wants to die it feels like when I go to a complete stop... I am planning on pulling the iac tomorrow and cleaning it...I think it just sat to long and need to driven...my alternator might be going out to so I'm going to also pull it and get it tested...
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteboysbronco View Post
Well I got the bronco around the block but she wants to die it feels like when I
go to a complete stop... I am planning on pulling the iac tomorrow and cleaning
it...I think it just sat to long and need to driven...my alternator might be going
out to so I'm going to also pull it and get it tested...
Oh heck. :/

Good plan on the rest BTW and the IAC cleaning will at the very-least tell if it's
part of the trouble or not since it'll act different after you clean a dirty IAC.

You got one of them IAC's that's two parts screwed together or is it one piece?

Thanks for keeping us posted, too many automotive trouble threads on the
internet that's left open ended IMO. :)

Alvin in AZ
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:08 PM   #19
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When cleaning the IAC, just clean the bottom/valve part only you don't want to get the solenoid wet with cleaner so make sure it all evaporates before reconnecting and replace the gasket if necessary to avoid a vaccum leak.

Good Luck ~
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:35 AM   #20
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yo WB,
fyi,
Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others by Ford via Steve83 http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/724437

&
High Idle RPM After Highway Cruise TSB 93-9-5 for 91-92 5.8 Bronco, F Series & Econoline & many others
synopsis; A high idle RPM may occur after a highway cruise. This may be caused by the idle air control valve.

ACTION:
Check the throttle cable and linkage and, if necessary, replace the idle air control valve. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

1. Check the throttle body, throttle cable and linkage to see that it operates freely and returns the throttle to a closed position.

2. If the throttle does not return to a closed position, or does not operate freely, service as required.

3. If the throttle does return freely to the closed position and the high idle continues, replace the idle air control valve.
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