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Old 01-04-2013, 07:52 PM   #1
Diesel_Brad
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Defroster switch

Does anyone know If there is any way to mount the defroster switch in a NON defroster equipped truck? How about wiring it?

I want to add heated mirrors to my 97 F250 and I want to use the stock bronco switch
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:44 AM   #2
miesk5
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yo Brad;
Here is some info to get you started;

Defroster Wiring Diagram in a 96 from Bronco Workshop Manual

Switch Connector, Bronco

Pin Number Circuit Circuit Function
1 186 (BR/LB) Heated Back Window Switch to Heated Back Window Grid
2 185 (BK) Battery Feed to Heated Back Window Switch and Grid
3 8 (O/Y) Heated Back Window Timing Circuit Feed
4 57 (BK) Ground Circuit
5 19 (LB/R) Instrument Panel Lamps Feed


The heated back window switch has a push button spring-loaded to neutral position to turn the system on or off. A timer-controlled relay illuminates the switch for approximately 10 minutes of operation.



46 14A262 Wiring to Electric Defroster (Bronco)

Item Part Number Description
1 — Wiring to Headlamp Switch
(Part of 14401)
2 — Wiring to Fuse Box
(Part of 14401)
3 14A282-CB Retainer
4 N606678-S36 Screw
5 12A581 Engine Control Sensor Wiring
6 — Connector to 14A504
(Part of 14401)
7 13K359 Multi-Function Switch
8 — Connector to Stoplamp Switch (Part of 14401)
9 — Clip
10 — E4OD Pigtail
(Part of 14401)
11 — Connector to Park Lamp Signal Switch
(Part of 14401)
12 14405 Rear Lamp Wiring
13 — Wiring to Ignition Switch and Steering Column
(Part of 14401)
14 — Connector to Clutch Interlock Switch
(Part of 14401)
15 — Wiring to Remote Keyless Entry Module
16 — Connector to Warning Buzzer Chime (Part of 14401)
17 — Connector to Remote Keyless Entry Module
18 — Air Bag Module
19 — Connector to Overspeed Warning (Part of 14401)
20 — Connector to Trailer Brake Connector (Part of 14401)
21 14A099 Wiring Shield (2 Req'd)
22 — Vacuum Hose Clip
23 — Connector to Ash Receptacle Wiring
(Part of 14401)
24 — Connector to PSOM Test Circuit (Part of 14401)
25 14A265 Connector to 14A265 Wiring Assembly
26 14B095 Connector to 14B095 Wiring Assembly
27 18A586 Connector to 18A586 Wiring Assembly
28 — Connector to Right Courtesy Lamp Switch (Part of 14401)
29 — Connector to Inertia Switch (Part of 14401)
30 — Wiring to Ground
(Part of 14401)
31 — Connector to Clearance Lamp (Part of 14401)
32 — Connector to Wiper Control Module (Part of 14401)
33 — Wiring to Rear Brake Anti-Lock Control Module (Part of 14401)
34 — Wiring to Glovebox Lamp (Part of 14401)
35 — Wiring to Brake Anti-Lock Module Test Circuit
(Part of 14401)
36 — Wiring to Radio Antenna (Part of 14401)
37 — Wiring to Bowden Cable
(Part fo 14401)
38 — Wiring to Cigar Lighter
(Part of 14401)
39 — Wiring to Heater Mode Switch (Part of 14401)
40 — Wiring to A/C Illumination
(Part of 14401)
41 — Connector to Radio
(Part of 14401)
42 — Wiring to A/C Blower Switch (Part of 14401)
43 — Wiring to Power Point
(Part of 14401)
44 — Connector to Premium Sound Amplifier (Part of 14401)
45 — Wiring to Shift on the Fly Switch (SOF)
(Part of 14401)
46 14A262 Wiring to Electric Defroster (Bronco)
47 14401 Main Wiring
48 — Take-Out to SOF Switch, and Electric Defrost Switch
(Part of 14401)
49 — Wiring to Cluster (Plug A)
(Part of 14401)
50 — Wiring to PSOM
(Part of 14401)
51 — Wiring to Cluster (Plug B)
(Part of 14401)
52 14B155-BA Cap
53 04320 Instrument Panel
54 — Connector to Dual Fuel Tank Switch (Part of 14401)
55 — Connector to Rear Window Control Switch (Bronco) (Part of 14401)
56 — Demister Hose
(Part of 04320)


---

Pull switch from a yard queen Bronco and maybe cut it out w/Portable Dremel, etc. leaving enough of the black dash to help install module in your F250
or buy New
18C621
Heated Rear Window Switch $41.62 in a 96
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Pa...d&model=Bronco
gOOgle pn for better prices

or;
Try this to make an under dash or in dash Pod;
ABS Plastic Forming tips for tweeters, switches, etc. (some pics are gone); "...Creating a form in ABS Plastic; Building a rod frequently is about solving problems. Installing a door panel with some power window converters can be one such problem because the regulator can become an obstacle. In some cases, the panel needs to be built up around inch to clear the regulator. What works best is to form a cavity in the panel. Here’s how to do it. Cut a mandrel out a piece of plywood the height needed and the diameter required. Cut another piece of plywood 1-1/2” larger than the mandrel. Place the mandrel under the panel where the regulator resides. Heat the panel with the propane torch until the panel becomes soft and pliable. Press the plywood ring piece down tight to your work table. When the plastic cools it will retain the formed shape. Mark Yearwood sent the following message to the RodDoors e-Group. Just a note...Always spray your glue, either with a gun or if using the can, only use the 3M 8090 super adhesive. NEVER use 77.. it won't last in the heat of autos. Spray 3-4 light coats different directions on both pieces, waiting a few minutes between. Let it tack good, almost feels dry. Make sure to get it in all the grooves and such. I used the Super 8090 to cover the whole inside of my 86 chevy pickup in tweed. Door panels with rodfoam designs, headliner and trim, dash and console. It has been six months with temps from 10 degrees to 110 with no problems. Stuck the carpet and pad down with it too. I buy it by the case from a supplier. We’ve seen people use skill saws, saber saws, hand saws, and die grinders on our plastic panels. But, nothing works better than a simple, sharp utility knife. Chalk out a line, score with your utility knife and snap like wallboard to break. All the plastic parts that we sell will sand like wood, drill like wood, and break like tile. So trimming out a panel is a snap. The biggest fear that most people have is that they’ll make a mistake. Not a big deal. If you trim a panel too small you can always glue it back together with ABS pipe cement. Add a backer plate from scrap so the joint is not just a butt joint. Once the repair has dried you can sand it smooth, retrim and the fabric will cover over the repaired seam..."
Source: by roddoors.com via web.archive.org http://web.archive.org/web/200503071...dderspage.html


Heated Back Window Grid Wire Test
Using a strong light inside vehicle, visually inspect wire grid from outside. A broken grid wire will appear as a brown spot.
Run engine at idle. Set the heated back window switch and light (18C621) to ON. The indicator lamp should come on.
Working inside vehicle with Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 014-00407 or equivalent, contact broad (bus bars) red-brown strips on sides of rear window. The meter should read 10-13 volts. A lower voltage reading indicates a loose ground wire (pigtail) connection at grounded side of glass.
Contact a good ground point with negative lead of meter. The voltage reading should not change.
With negative lead of the meter grounded, touch each grid line of heated back window at its midpoint with positive lead. A reading of approximately 6 volts indicates that the line is good. A reading of zero volts indicates that the line is broken between midpoint and the positive side of the grid line. A reading of 12 volts indicates that the circuit is broken between midpoint of grid line and ground.
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:00 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad View Post
Does anyone know If there is any way to mount the defroster switch in a NON defroster equipped truck? How about wiring it?

I want to add heated mirrors to my 97 F250 and I want to use the stock bronco switch
Miesk5 got you on wireing. As far as install does it happen to be the 97 super duty with the same interior as the 92-96? If so pull the gauge surround with defroster out of a doner and swap it in. Would be a factory install.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:05 PM   #4
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Thanks guys. I appreciate the wiring diagram. It looks like the switch and timer is self contained(thank god)

As for mounting the switch. I could just go with a bronco trim panel, but the problem is where the electronic 4wd shifter buttons are, I have a blank panel and I will be installing a Factory Lightning fog light switch in there. See my delema
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:16 PM   #5
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That's not a dilemma; it's just another consideration. Some clusters have a removeable R-side plate; others are molded solid. But you can use ANY defrost switch with big wires; they all have internal timers. Only the later switches with all small wires are "dumb". Another option is to use a simple on-off switch; it won't hurt the mirrors to be heated any time the key is in RUN, so you could just turn the switch on in the winter & off in the spring.

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Old 01-05-2013, 09:36 PM   #6
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The problem with the heaters being on anytime the truck is in run, is when you are driving in a semi warm day and you get in the wet and get the salt spray on the mirror. The heater just cooks the water off leaving the salt, then the mirrors are useless. I need to have them turn off.

maybe I could use a 87-91 switch

Or I'll see if I can find the bezel with the molded in side panel. Then I could just cut out the panel next to it for my WIF, WTS lights
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:45 PM   #7
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HMmmmmmmm..... heated mirrors, good idea, I did this on my centurion, you can use the factory rear defroster button just tap off of it and use a relay to control the mirrors. then when you put on the rear defroster the mirrors will go on too.

Did you install the bumper or dash yet...

OK just saw you do not have rear defroster, just mount switch in stock location and use it for the mirrors

PS I have a rear glass WITH defroster grid.............just sayin
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:45 PM   #8
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Ive found that there is about 4 different guage bezals with variouse options. Duel tank switch, defrost, 4x and blank. The screw stand offs are behind them for most of the options but the panels arent cut out. Defrost option is the only one that doesnt have the bosses. You should be able to use the bosses on the backside of the blank area to mount up the defrost switch. This will save you from having to find a new bezel and use the one you have.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:54 PM   #9
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The defroster switch mounts to the dash NOT the bezel.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:07 PM   #10
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Just Cut the whole section of plastic out where the 4x4 switch goes and make a piece to fit in its place. Not a big deal at all. You can make it out of most anything, sheet ABS, light ply wood, once you get it all fitted, cover it with carbon fiber cloth, it will look badass. Or just fill in the holes where the 4x4 switch goes and cut out for your lightning fog light switch.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:24 PM   #11
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The defroster switch mounts to the dash NOT the bezel.
I consider the large black piece around the guages the bezel. Maybe my term is off, but thats where mine was mounted.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:57 AM   #12
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Yeah, that's what he's saying. You said to mount the defrost on the backside of the bezel, but it mounts on the FRONT side of the dash, and only passes thru the bezel. There are 4 bezel moldings, but the pickup dual tank switch fits in the same hole as the Bronco rear window, so that's not a difference. They are: with & w/o defrost; and solid or screw-in ESOF/diesel area.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:15 AM   #13
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Does anyone have any pics of how the switch mounts to the dash?

If it is that easy I can just miter a hole in my bezel to have the switch come thru. I thought the switch mounted to the bezel like the fuel selector switch
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:45 PM   #14
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There's a hole in the dash structure - the switch just slides straight in.

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Old 01-06-2013, 04:42 PM   #15
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Thanks steve
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:43 PM   #16
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just so you can get a visual of how the switch mounts........
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:14 PM   #17
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'87-91 screws to the back of the column surround panel; '80-86 screws to the bottom of the dash frame.

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Old 01-06-2013, 06:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
'87-91 screws to the back of the column surround panel; '80-86 screws to the bottom of the dash frame.

What is the column surround panel?
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:13 PM   #19
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Bottom of this pic:

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Old 01-07-2013, 05:46 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
Bottom of this pic:

Gotcha. If in a pickup, the fuel selector would be in place of it?
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