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Old 01-06-2013, 05:14 AM   #1
stangfromhale
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Building a 351w

What I want is a daily with low rpm torque and as close as possible to bulletproof. The transmission (c6) goes in for a rebuild next week and a close to stock converter will be used. For the most part it will be a daily and occasionally tow my tractor in for service/repair etc.

I'm already running an Edelbrock Performer intake, Performer carb (vac. sec.), HEI dist. and long tubes. All of those parts have to be utilized on the new engine. Non-roller motor and I would like to keep the cost reasonable.

Heads: I've already swallowed the fact that I'm gonna have to shell ~$1200 for heads. Given that number (or below if possible), what heads do you recommend (i.e. chamber size, valve size). The new heads also have to work with my current long tubes (I know some heads and header combos have to be a match i.e. GT-40's)

Fasteners: In the grand scheme of things, should I use main and head studs? I don't mind shelling out for them if it's going to give me some piece of mind.

Main Girdle: Worth it or wasted money?

Stock crank and rods: If the donor motor I buy has good internals, should I just have them machined/re-conditioned (if needed) or replace with upgrades?

Pistons: I really need help with this one. The math evades me when trying to figure out an estimated CR given the head specs/piston style and specs.

Cam: How does this look? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k35-238-3

Rockers: Seems like the best deal to me. But, again, how do I know if the pushrods sent will be the right length? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-rp1436-16

Books: This will be my first ever Ford build, so I need good books to show all the little tips and tricks (every motor/manufacturer has them) in order to build it right the first time.

I basically need someone to point me to the parts needed and give me a laundry list.

Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:38 AM   #2
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My suggestion for torque but close to stock or stock converter would b to use an rv cam.

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Old 01-06-2013, 02:10 PM   #3
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I would recommend just ARP bolts rather than studs. The studs are nice and make assembly a little easier, but not necessary on a mild engine. That comp cams kit looks good. I put one similar in my 460 build and a chevy that I put together a few years ago. Very happy with the quality of the comp cams kits so far. BUY CAM BREAK-IN LUBE. Where you should shell out some extra money is the bearings. I was horrified at how bad sealed power were. Lot of sharp edges and general roughness. Clevite seems to still make good bearings; they are well worth the extra money.
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:22 PM   #4
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u can not put enough assembly lube on everything. be sure to prime the oil system before starting, use cam break in additive, and do not let the engine idle for the cam break in.

once it fires off get those rpm's up.

if something goes wrong u can shut it down and continue the break in later. watch the oil pressure and engine temp. everything is tight and overheating could happen.

after cam break in. get your rings to seat by driving it. there are many different ways to do this, but i choose to use the drive it like you stole it method.

change oil and filter after breakin, then again at 500 to get rid of all the assembly lube and metal shavings that may be in there.

i also recommend a magnetic oil plug.
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:47 PM   #5
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stock crank and rods should be good.

I did a build recently and the only thing I did was convert to mass air flow so the camshaft choice wasn't a big deal.

If you stay speed density you just need to get a cam that will jive with it and keep the vacuum happy. People can recommend the proper cams for that setup I'm sure.
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBud View Post
I would recommend just ARP bolts rather than studs. The studs are nice and make assembly a little easier, but not necessary on a mild engine. That comp cams kit looks good. I put one similar in my 460 build and a chevy that I put together a few years ago. Very happy with the quality of the comp cams kits so far. BUY CAM BREAK-IN LUBE. Where you should shell out some extra money is the bearings. I was horrified at how bad sealed power were. Lot of sharp edges and general roughness. Clevite seems to still make good bearings; they are well worth the extra money.
Copy that. Clevite bearings. Good thing you chimed in. I was looking at the Sealed Power packages that included the pistons. So I should just piece together my parts vs. going the kit route.
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:06 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by m-unit View Post
If you stay speed density you just need to get a cam that will jive with it and keep the vacuum happy. People can recommend the proper cams for that setup I'm sure.
I doubt he will stay speed density or Mass air since his bronco is a 83 with a carb on it.

He will not need a EFI friendly cam.
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopes View Post
u can not put enough assembly lube on everything. be sure to prime the oil system before starting, use cam break in additive, and do not let the engine idle for the cam break in.

once it fires off get those rpm's up.

if something goes wrong u can shut it down and continue the break in later. watch the oil pressure and engine temp. everything is tight and overheating could happen.

after cam break in. get your rings to seat by driving it. there are many different ways to do this, but i choose to use the drive it like you stole it method.

change oil and filter after breakin, then again at 500 to get rid of all the assembly lube and metal shavings that may be in there.

i also recommend a magnetic oil plug.
The lube issue is pretty much the same on all engine builds, you never have enough, lol.

Check on the magnetic plug. I'm also extremely interested in an oil filter relocation kit. Once I get everything squared away, the last thing I want is a stream of oil going everywhere every time I change the oil.
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopes View Post
I doubt he will stay speed density or Mass air since his bronco is a 83 with a carb on it.

He will not need a EFI friendly cam.
You are correct sir. I bought this truck for it's simplicity (no computers whatsoever) .
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:13 PM   #10
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Has anyone else had issues with Sealed Power stuff? I am getting ready to rebiuld my 5.8 and was planning on a Sealed Power kit from Summit.

Carl
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:29 PM   #11
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I think in the end, it will be better to piece together everything from what I'm hearing and reading. I think you'll end up with better quality parts, but you will spend a little more for that quality. Make a wish list on Summit, that's what I'm doing lol.
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:35 PM   #12
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Oh I've got a wish list What pistons and rings are going to get?

Carl
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
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I doubt he will stay speed density or Mass air since his bronco is a 83 with a carb on it.

He will not need a EFI friendly cam.
haha duuuuuuuuur
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:00 PM   #14
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Oh I've got a wish list What pistons and rings are going to get?

Carl
I'm not sure just yet. I have to figure out what heads I'll be running in order to figure out the compression ratio I'm looking for (between 9.5-10:1). Probably go with a set of world products Windsor sr heads. I'm hoping the donor engine I find will have a crank and rods that are in good shape. If not I guess I'll end up doing a 393 or 408.

When the time arrives I plan on doing a build thread, soup to nuts with part #'s, machine work done, torque specs and a video of the final result. It's gonna be a few months before I even get started though so don't hold your breath lol.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:59 AM   #15
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Ok guys, I have a budget. $3500 for everything including any small parts/lubes etc.

Ordinarily I would just build what I already have, BUT, the engine that's in the truck now has a nice big reman tag on the front of the block. I know my luck pretty well and I know when I take the heads off I'm gonna have a Jasper special of different bore sizes and some may not even be able to be bored. So I have to have a donor or buy a short block.

Here is the short block that I'm considering:

http://www.fordstrokers.com/diy-libe...rt-blocks.html

Now that takes a pretty good chunk right from the get go, but it's also a good high quality short block.

Any other ideas? The machine shop in town can do the standard block work for me, but they can't turn cranks. $300 gets the works if I take the block and the pistons in for them to do their thing.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:42 AM   #16
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Just me, but if I had a carbed truck and my 351 was shot, I'd go directly to a 460.

You could find a good used 460 and matching C6 for well under your budget and have all the low RPM torque you would ever need this side of a diesel.

That shortblock you're looking at eats a big chunk of your budget right off the bat. It would be a good foundation if you want to stay 351.

Personally, I'd hit the JY and find a 460 in a Lincoln (hasn't pulled anything but a granny) and a 4x4 C6, get the mounts and accessories off a HD truck, and you are golden for probably <$1000

Good luck with your truck!

They are a blast!
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:17 AM   #17
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I want to stay with the small block. The transmission is getting built as we speak, so that would have been money down the drain.

If I could find an unmolested 351w I wouldn't mind building it, but it seems like all I'm seeing lately is Clevelands.
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:11 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by stangfromhale View Post
If I could find an unmolested 351w I wouldn't mind building it,
but it seems like all I'm seeing lately is Clevelands.
Buy a parts truck? :)

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Old 01-10-2013, 12:26 PM   #19
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Since your looking for a new block, I highly, HIGHLY suggest going to a roller cam. Not so much as a performance upgrade and lower rotating friction in the engine. But you pretty much eliminate the chance of wiping the cam out on initial break in.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:31 PM   #20
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I got leads today on a 1972 block that came out of a Gran Torino and a 1992 long block that came out of an F150. Both with factory bores and both are $200, although the '72 says obo.

I'm leaning toward the '92 unless someone says otherwise and makes a good case for starting with the bare block and doing a ground up build.

I'm also just now seeing where some blocks have to have a small base circle cam. Do either of these blocks apply or am I good to go with standard cams?
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