Front Hubs? Or Something Else?

[NightMares]

Sorry for the multiple topics this morning guys, got paid on Monday and trying to sort through all the small issues for the bronco.

When I bought it last week, the PO told me that the 4wd doesn't work and he doesn't know what's wrong with it. He bought it about a year ago and PO before him used it as a hunting rig. That owner told him that the hubs went out, but because the hunting season was over and he was selling it he didn't want to bother wit it. My PO never tried engaging them (so he says) so he didn't know what it did.

I tried locking it in last night just to see what it does, and wow is all that comes to mind.

I locked the hubs and put it in 4Hi, and pulled forward and it seemed like it was enganged. After about 15 feet it started clunking from what seems like the drivers side, then I was back in 2. I spun the wheels on the ice a little and had no response from the front. Turned around and drove it back and it kicked back in, drove about 20 feet and started clunking before losing power up there again.

Is this the hubs? Everything I've owned has been either an Actuator or if it had hubs, I never had any issues with them. When the actuators went out, I just didn't power to the front wheels, no clunking sounds.

If it is the hubs, I've replaced wheel bearings before so I'd assume it's similar to that, isn't it? Also plan to do wheel bearings to avoid having to do this anytime soon in the future while it's apart. What other considerations should I count on when doing hubs? Will an alignment be needed like wheel bearings require after replacement? Because currently this thing drives straighter than an arrow and handles highways better than my old 2wd 94 chevy eclb and if I don't need to pay for an alignement, that'd make both my wallet and my wife just a little bit happier.

Thanks guys.

[TheUnforgiven]

there's a few very good write-ups on changing/maintaining the wheel bearings, search through the write-up forum. Sackman did a good one, i think ShaneC did as well.

Does the truck have auto hubs, or manuals?

[TheUnforgiven]

because i'm nice, and bored, i googled the test procedure. source:miesk5/Gacknar

If the locking hubs are the automatic type, they engage by themselves; if manual hubs, each hub on both front wheels need to to be turned to Locked before pressing any buttons on dash.
Manual Hubs & 1356 Electric Shift Operational Test; "... (engine off, hubs disengaged), crawl under the truck with the transfer case in 2HI, you should be able to grab the front drive shaft and turn it by hand. Also with the hubs disengaged you should see the front axles turning freely. Now engage the hubs and you should not be able to turn the drive shaft by hand. Jack the front wheels off the ground with the hubs engaged, turn the drive shaft by hand, the wheels should turn. The 4x4 light should not be on in 2HI, when in 4LOW you may have a low range light on, (not all trucks have that light) at least mine doesn't..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Auto Hub Operational Test; Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st; "...Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall. 2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only). 3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only). After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7. 4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working. 5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only). 6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning. Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them) 7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs. To check for transfercase engagement. 1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO. 2. lie under vehicle. 3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction. 4. If you can turn the front drive shaft then your transfer case is not shifting properly..."
Source: by Gacknar

http://content.chiltonsonline.com/TS...aCpJyaaA%3d%3d

[NightMares]

Awesome, thanks. I'll have to go check that after I'm off today. Truck has manual hubs and manual transfercase. I locked the hubs and then put it in 4 hi, it seemed like it locked for a little bit then started clunking and then no power. I'd assume since it's an open front diff, that it could be the driver's side hub because that's the side that's clunking and with it disengaged on that side then that's where the power is being transferred.

[fartman]

Sounds like the hubs to me, but before you replace them you should open them up, clean them out and lightly grease them.

I found out my hubs were not engaging in a situation very similar to what your describing. I was going to buy new ones, and was told to clean them up and grease them first. They have been working fine now for a couple years.

[TheUnforgiven]

Don't put grease in the hub mechanism or where you turn the lock. the grease will dry up and seize. A few drops of ATF is more than enough.

[NightMares]

I'll check it out. How hard is it to pull these hubs off for that? Is an easy quick thing, because if it's a larger project I'll probably just pick up new ones and replace them rather then put in some ATF and hope it works after a couple hours of work.

[NightMares]

Nevermind guys. I looked it up on eHow. Doesn't look all that hard. I'll go ahead and test it out when I get home and see what happens.

Thanks for the help.

[NightMares]

Sorry, another question. Do I need to get a hub puller or is there another solution to pulling one without it?

[fartman]

You just need a pick or a couple small flat heads. I know there are some write ups on FSB about replacing the hubs. Check out the Tech section.

[NightMares]

Sorry to drag this up again, but figured it was better than starting a new thread. I get paid on Monday and want to get this fixed with this paycheck.

I'm not trying to be cheap, but I've been looking for the least expensive set I can find to get this resolved. In my wife's eyes, the 4 wheel drive is not a NEEDED fix, so if I can get this taken care of without breaking the bank too much that's my goal.

I found a set of hubs on 4wheelparts.com from Mile Marker for $62.09 or $64.79 plus shipping. This is already almost $40 less than any auto parts store around me has them for, with the shipping I'll still be saving $30. Problem I see is the overview on both sets shows they'll fit 1974-1988 with 19 spline outer axle's. Will they still fit the 92, or are they different?

Here's the links to them

Supreme Locking Hubs - $64.79
Street Master Locking Hubs - $62.09

Also, has anyone used these if they do fit? Any issues that anyone has noticed? The only review on them is on the Street Master's and they were installed on a Jeep, no complaints and said they work great. Just looking from anyone here who would know first hand.

[jimd1981]

I installed a set of these Mile Marker Supremes (104) on my '96, they work great. Easy install, once you remove the outer lock ring. Picks are your friend.

[NightMares]

Perfect, thank you very much. Exactly what I wanted to hear.

[fartman]

Did you clean them out and lubricate them? That might just saved you some cashola.