'95 Bronco stopped starting - FSB Forums
Register Home Forums Active Topics Photo Gallery All Albums Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance FSB Store
FullsizeBronco.com is the premier Ford Bronco Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-14-2013, 11:05 PM   #1
Surt
Registered User
 
Surt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Augusta
Posts: 44
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '95 Bronco XLT
'95 Bronco stopped starting

I got called into work at 0130 on this last Saturday morning, two of my soldiers got stopped at the gate for suspected driving under the influence. It was about 34 degrees and a damn skating rink all over base. To top everything off, after retrieving their vehicles from the front gate and getting ready to start the hours of paperwork on my Saturday/6th day of work, I went to start my '95 Bronco, my pride and joy project, and I just get a dull "click" from under the hood, and the brake light, ABS and check engine light light up, everything else switches off like it usually does, it just won't turn over. Just that single dull click. I try a few more times whenever I get a break, and it does it a few more times, but pretty much starts fine the rest of the day.

I'm not too deep into mechanics, but this Bronco is my attempt to do most everything myself. With my research around here the way I see it, I need to try to jump it first. If it starts up no problem with a jump a few times, I need to take the battery back in (it's only 4 months old, and the terminals were also replaced at this time) and get it tested/swapped out. If it still won't start, I need to tap the starter with a rubber mallet and see if it's not binding or going bad and in need of replacement.

Am I on the right track here? What's a recommended replacement if it turns out to be the starter? I've already looked it up here: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=130023 and this job seems totally easy enough to do in my driveway where it currently is.
__________________
"It is just as absurd to ask strength not to express itself as strength, not to be a desire to overthrow, crush, become master, to be a thirst for enemies, resistance and triumphs, as it is to ask weakness to express itself as strength."
Surt is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-15-2013, 01:26 AM   #2
forbye
Registered User
 
forbye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 242
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1990 XLT 5.0, K&N Hot Air Intake, Motorsport Headers, 3" Dynomax Exhaust
I would pull the battery and get it charged then tested. If it tests good, have the alternator tested (I prefer to test it in the vehicle at a shop rather than pulling it and letting one of the counter monkies at the parts store do it).
If it passes all these tests, check all cables and grounds.

You mentioned that you had replaced the terminals,


if these are the ones you used, toss 'em and buy/build new cables. Check RJM
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/coll...ry-cable-parts
__________________
"I can't say that a '90 is going to change your mind about Fords... That era of truck isn't known for exceptional reliability or simplicity of maintenance" Steve83
forbye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2013, 01:30 AM   #3
nogravity
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 11
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 95 Eddie with 5.8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt View Post
I got called into work at 0130 on this last Saturday morning, two of my soldiers got stopped at the gate for suspected driving under the influence. It was about 34 degrees and a damn skating rink all over base. To top everything off, after retrieving their vehicles from the front gate and getting ready to start the hours of paperwork on my Saturday/6th day of work, I went to start my '95 Bronco, my pride and joy project, and I just get a dull "click" from under the hood, and the brake light, ABS and check engine light light up, everything else switches off like it usually does, it just won't turn over. Just that single dull click. I try a few more times whenever I get a break, and it does it a few more times, but pretty much starts fine the rest of the day.

I'm not too deep into mechanics, but this Bronco is my attempt to do most everything myself. With my research around here the way I see it, I need to try to jump it first. If it starts up no problem with a jump a few times, I need to take the battery back in (it's only 4 months old, and the terminals were also replaced at this time) and get it tested/swapped out. If it still won't start, I need to tap the starter with a rubber mallet and see if it's not binding or going bad and in need of replacement.

Am I on the right track here? What's a recommended replacement if it turns out to be the starter? I've already looked it up here: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=130023 and this job seems totally easy enough to do in my driveway where it currently is.
Have you tried jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver?

Also I had a funky problem some years ago where the terminals on my starter were not so clean, remove the batt cables from your battery and check out your starter.
nogravity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2013, 04:53 AM   #4
Cantflysolo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
Posts: 75
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '94 XL 5.0
I agree that checking the solenoid would be smart. That has always been my first stop in starting problems, and it is usually the cheapest too.
Cantflysolo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2013, 09:38 AM   #5
Alvin in AZ
AKA: Butthead
 
Alvin in AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gadsden Purchase
Posts: 2,880
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantflysolo View Post
I agree that checking the solenoid would be smart. That has always been
my first stop in starting problems, and it is usually the cheapest too.
My first and cheapest is to get the voltmeter out! LOL :)

Here's a post from another thread...

=============================================

I don't usually look at these "no start" threads anymore because the OP
won't use a voltmeter to find the trouble. At best he'll swap parts. :/

-----------------------------------------------------

Here's my way of doing it... YMMV

1) It's messing up?
Don't mess with any wires etc get the analog meter out first-thing... !
That's so you won't "clear-up the trouble on yourself" and then won't know
what needs fixing. BTDT and BTSeenThat both. :/ Do yourself a favor and
let the voltmeter do its job before you go monkeying with it. ;)

2) Read the battery voltage by digging the voltmeter's leads into the
battery's terminals (not the clamps;). Should read ~12 volts.

3) Have a helper try to start the vehicle. I've done this by myself, so don't
tell me you can't too. ;) But a helper's cool, you can teach the helper how
to troubleshoot a starting/charging system while you're at it. :)

4) Watch to see how far-down the needle goes...
Less than 10 volts and sounds sluggish or don't turn over? --> 4a
Don't move really, stays at ~12 volts and don't turn over? --> 4b
Drops to ~11 volts and starter sounds good and engine starts fine? --> 5

5) After it starts, does the voltage stay at ~12 volts or rise to ~13 volts?
If it just sits there at the original voltage then you got charging circuit
trouble could be the alternator or the voltage regulator or both.
Alternators can be fixed, BTW. ;)

The trick is to first try it on a vehicle that's working fine to see it in action.

An analog voltmeter is all you need.

4a) Typically you've got a good connection through the whole starter's
circuit and got a low or weak battery.
How old is the battery?
A brand-new battery can be bad, BTDT.

4b) Typically you got an "open circuit" (as opposed to a "short circuit")
and the analog meter will find it for you if you-let-it-lead-you to it.
In steps, move the leads closer to the "load" (the starter) until you get
virtually-zero-volts (when the helper tries to start the engine). Use little
bitty steps as you narrow in on -exactly- where the open-circuit-is. ;)

-----------------------------------------------------

Alvin in AZ

=============================================

So.
You gonna get a voltmeter and give it a try or what? ;)

Butthead in AZ
ps- The starter relay on the fender apron is a solenoid actuated -relay-.
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/starterRelay.jpg <---starter relay
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/starterDelco.jpg <---a starter with a solenoid on the side of it invented by Delco
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/starters351w.jpg <--two Ford-invention starters "movable pole shoe"
^Cheap and reliable those! :)
Alvin in AZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2013, 12:21 PM   #6
Steve83
Registered User
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 35,976
iTrader: (100)
Bronco Info: '83 VIN & title on '93 frame/body w/'95 4.9L & EB paint
Click these & read all the captions:

. . .
__________________
Walk softly & carry a BIG SIX ! ! !

. .
Steve83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2013, 09:22 PM   #7
Surt
Registered User
 
Surt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Augusta
Posts: 44
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '95 Bronco XLT
I've tried jumping, but with no discernible difference. Still the single dull click.

I picked up a digital multimeter today, and will poke around tomorrow and do some checks on where power is or isn't coming from, and where it is or isn't going.

Thanks for all the input, and yes Alvin, I was too ready to just start dropping in new parts. Thanks for the reality check.
__________________
"It is just as absurd to ask strength not to express itself as strength, not to be a desire to overthrow, crush, become master, to be a thirst for enemies, resistance and triumphs, as it is to ask weakness to express itself as strength."
Surt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2013, 12:20 AM   #8
Alvin in AZ
AKA: Butthead
 
Alvin in AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gadsden Purchase
Posts: 2,880
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt View Post
I've tried jumping, but with no discernible difference. Still the single dull click.
I picked up a digital multimeter today, and will poke around tomorrow and do
some checks on where power is or isn't coming from, and where it is or isn't
going.
Thanks for all the input, and yes Alvin, I was too ready to just start dropping
in new parts. Thanks for the reality check.
Digital meter? :/ Oh no! ;)
Try it out on a vehicle that's working-right and see what you get, ok? :)

Thanks for that and good luck on your testing. :)

BTW, there's been a few times when guys and gals have had their "good
looking" jumper cables hooked up and ready for a jump when Butthead
shows up... and it didn't work. Grabbed my homemade-ones out and they
-worked-. No kidding.

--------------------------

My son was helping clean up an old friend's place and there were two sets
of jumper cables I claimed dibs on the better looking set, a few days later
they were needed, his ugly-cheap ones worked and my fancy ones were
dead. LOL :) We were all laughing because I'd made a big deal out of "my
pretty ones might be dead and his might be the good-ones". :)
Sure enough was.

A meter could tell you which one is good and -where- the dead ones are
"open".

Electricity is just funny like that, the ugly connection is "making" and the
good-clean-looking one could be "open".
^BTSeenT a jillion times.

Cool huh? :)

Alvin in AZ
ps- What a guy can do, is charge the battery. Be careful and do it right.
Have the two connected and the one vehicle running. With the booster
cable never-losing-contact, pull one battery clamp loose from the good
battery and let it charge the "dead" battery for a while. That way, the
running vehicle's voltage regulator "sees" a low battery and will charge
like it means it. ;) Had to do that several times when the battery was
just plain ol' -too- dead {to start the truck}. Did that to signal batteries
in the middle of the night when the power'd been off too long.
Alvin in AZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2013, 10:20 PM   #9
Surt
Registered User
 
Surt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Augusta
Posts: 44
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '95 Bronco XLT
Tested the battery out, both my Sierra and Bronco both read at 12.54 Volts.

I crawled underneath the Bronco, in my slick, snow-covered driveway, and take another look at the stater. Lo and behold:



Looks to be the top half of the starter shield, no? I assume the lower half broke off and is gonezo on me. I don't have any buddies, and the wife just left me, so I have no way to see if full voltage is making it to the starter when I turn the key.

Lord only knows how long that shield has been missing, you figure that all the road crud and crap, road de-icer and salt has corroded and broken the starter over time?
__________________
"It is just as absurd to ask strength not to express itself as strength, not to be a desire to overthrow, crush, become master, to be a thirst for enemies, resistance and triumphs, as it is to ask weakness to express itself as strength."
Surt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 01:35 AM   #10
Steve83
Registered User
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 35,976
iTrader: (100)
Bronco Info: '83 VIN & title on '93 frame/body w/'95 4.9L & EB paint
Hard times are no reason to get melodramatic - we've all had them. You can certainly set the meter where it will be visible later, run its probes to the starter terminals, then stand beside the battery & trigger the relay while observing the meter. That shield is just a radiant heat shield; not a seal or weatherproofer. In your climate, its presence is purely optional - it will have no effect on starter longevity.
__________________
Walk softly & carry a BIG SIX ! ! !

. .
Steve83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 12:39 PM   #11
Surt
Registered User
 
Surt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Augusta
Posts: 44
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '95 Bronco XLT
Anything that came across as melodrama was unintentional hyperbole. I have no plans to sit in the Bronco once I get it running again and listen to "Freebird" with one of my 1911s in my lap.

The leads on my voltmeter were too short, and the sun sets at around 1500 up here. Between that, and additional matters requiring my attention last night, I was disinclined to find a way to test voltage to the starter on my own. I do have friends coming over tonight and I'll get that part figured out then.

Thanks for the info.
__________________
"It is just as absurd to ask strength not to express itself as strength, not to be a desire to overthrow, crush, become master, to be a thirst for enemies, resistance and triumphs, as it is to ask weakness to express itself as strength."
Surt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 02:44 PM   #12
Alvin in AZ
AKA: Butthead
 
Alvin in AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gadsden Purchase
Posts: 2,880
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt View Post
...one of my 1911s...
Cool, you reload for 45acp? :)

Quote:
The leads on my voltmeter were too short...
...to find a way to test voltage to the starter on my own.
...have friends coming over tonight and I'll get that part figured out then.
Sounds like a good plan to me, beats the hell out of the
"gambling method of electrical troubleshooting" IMO. ;)

-----------------------------------------------------

Here's Alvin's way to do it...

1) It's messing up?
Don't mess with any wires etc get the analog meter out first-thing... !
That's so you won't "clear-up the trouble on yourself" and then won't know
what needs fixing. BTDT and BTSeenThat both. :/ Do yourself a favor and
let the voltmeter do its job before you go monkeying with it. ;)

2) Read the battery voltage by digging the voltmeter's leads into the
battery's terminals (not the clamps;). Should read ~12 volts.

3) Have a helper try to start the vehicle. I've done this by myself, so don't
tell me you can't too. ;) But a helper's cool, you can teach the helper how
to troubleshoot a starting/charging system while you're at it. :)

4) Watch to see how far-down the needle goes...
Less that 10 volts and sounds sluggish or don't turn over? --> 4a
Don't move really, stays at ~12 volts and don't turn over? --> 4b
Drops to ~11 volts and starter sounds good and engine starts fine? --> 5

5) After it starts, does the voltage stay at ~12 volts or rise to ~13 volts?
If it just sits there at the original voltage then you got charging circuit
trouble could be the alternator or the voltage regulator or both.
Alternators can be fixed, BTW. ;)

The trick is to first try it on a vehicle that's working fine to see it in action.

An analog voltmeter is all you need.

4a) Typically you've got a good connection through the whole starter's
circuit and got a low or weak battery.
How old is the battery?
A brand-new battery can be bad, BTDT.

4b) Typically you got an "open circuit" (as opposed to a "short circuit")
and the analog meter will find it for you if you-let-it-lead-you to it.
In steps, move the leads closer to the "load" (the starter) until you get
virtually-zero-volts (when the helper tries to start the engine). Use little
bitty steps as you narrow in on -exactly- where the open-circuit-is. ;)

-----------------------------------------------------

Alvin in AZ
Alvin in AZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2013, 04:22 PM   #13
Surt
Registered User
 
Surt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Augusta
Posts: 44
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '95 Bronco XLT
Haha, yes, I reload .45 ACP. I also converted one to .460 Rowland which I also reload for. The feeling of a 230 gn. FMJ leaving at 1100 FPS with recoil softer than your average 850 FPS load from a non-modified gun is like flying a rocket ship made of biceps.

So, I did some diag work. We had a bit of a cold snap, but the battery is still putting out 12.2 volts cold. When cranked it drops down to 11.3 volts. The starter is receiving 9.3V when cranked. The dickens of it all: when I was testing the starter, the truck started for the first time since the day it started going haywire on me.

Did I just jump my starter? Is that what happened?
__________________
"It is just as absurd to ask strength not to express itself as strength, not to be a desire to overthrow, crush, become master, to be a thirst for enemies, resistance and triumphs, as it is to ask weakness to express itself as strength."
Surt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2013, 05:48 PM   #14
Alvin in AZ
AKA: Butthead
 
Alvin in AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gadsden Purchase
Posts: 2,880
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt View Post
Did I just jump my starter?
Is that what happened?
Hmmm... I need to do some voltage testing to be sure but at this point,
I say "coincidence".

Alvin in AZ
ps- For this tinkering fool, reloading is -half- the fun. :)
Alvin in AZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2013, 08:03 PM   #15
Surt
Registered User
 
Surt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Augusta
Posts: 44
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '95 Bronco XLT
Tried 'er ou again after sitting in the garage again for a few hours. Started right up, turned I off, now it won't start up at all. Just the dull, single "click" again.
__________________
"It is just as absurd to ask strength not to express itself as strength, not to be a desire to overthrow, crush, become master, to be a thirst for enemies, resistance and triumphs, as it is to ask weakness to express itself as strength."
Surt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2013, 08:19 PM   #16
Alvin in AZ
AKA: Butthead
 
Alvin in AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gadsden Purchase
Posts: 2,880
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surt View Post
Tried 'er ou again after sitting in the garage again for a few hours.
Started right up, turned I off, now it won't start up at all.
Just the dull, single "click" again.
And the voltage was what? ;)
Did the starter sound tired/labored when it turned over?

Alvin in AZ
Alvin in AZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2013, 09:21 PM   #17
Surt
Registered User
 
Surt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Augusta
Posts: 44
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '95 Bronco XLT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvin in AZ View Post
And the voltage was what?
Did the starter sound tired/labored when it turned over?

Alvin in AZ
Starter sounded fine/normal when it did turn over.

I just went out there and got readings again, but no start this time. Yay?

Battery's still running ~12, dipping down to 11.7 when cranked. The starter gets 10.5V every time it tries to crank.
__________________
"It is just as absurd to ask strength not to express itself as strength, not to be a desire to overthrow, crush, become master, to be a thirst for enemies, resistance and triumphs, as it is to ask weakness to express itself as strength."
Surt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2013, 09:53 PM   #18
nogravity
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 11
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 95 Eddie with 5.8
Well here a few ideas you can try.
1.Check the wire harness from your batt to your starter.. make sure its good.. this can be done yourself. I've pulled mine just to make sure the ends weren't dead or rusted out.

2. Pull your starter and have it tested at an auto parts store along with your battery. Volts are one thing but what is important is cranking amps. Your batt could be dead, or have a dead cell. I had a batt that read 12.v but its amps was 54.. I dont know the correct number but I believe its 500 and above It takes a ton of amps to turn over the car

3. if you havent already jump your solenoid with a screwdriver ..this will involve having someone in the car with the key in the start position.

As always start isolating things by themselves to see if they function properly.

I've worked on mine a lot by myself you just have to find a way.
nogravity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2013, 12:28 AM   #19
Steve83
Registered User
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 35,976
iTrader: (100)
Bronco Info: '83 VIN & title on '93 frame/body w/'95 4.9L & EB paint
If the starter SOLENOID (the one ON the starter) engages, and there's ~10V going into it, but the motor doesn't spin the engine, the next step is to measure what's coming OUT of the solenoid on the flat braid running into the actual motor (the LOWER large stud on the solenoid).



BTW
Where did you have the meter's ground probe when you took that reading. And for that matter: where exactly was the red probe?
__________________
Walk softly & carry a BIG SIX ! ! !

. .
Steve83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2013, 02:38 PM   #20
Surt
Registered User
 
Surt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Augusta
Posts: 44
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '95 Bronco XLT
I had the leads on the washer ring looking hookups on the two screws. The ground was on the lower ring, the positive on the upper. B to M on this diagram, the quickest I could find one resembling the one on mine.

...crap, I screwed that up, didn't I?

__________________
"It is just as absurd to ask strength not to express itself as strength, not to be a desire to overthrow, crush, become master, to be a thirst for enemies, resistance and triumphs, as it is to ask weakness to express itself as strength."
Surt is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  FSB Forums > Bronco Discussions > Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone!


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:30 AM.


2003-2009 FullSizeBronco.com. All rights reserved