Noob w/ some Questions - FSB Forums
Register Home Forums Active Topics Photo Gallery All Albums Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance FSB Store
FullsizeBronco.com is the premier Ford Bronco Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-16-2013, 03:16 PM   #1
trakesbronco
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 33
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8
Noob w/ some Questions

I just bought a 1996 Eddie Bauer Edition Bronco. It has the 5.8 w Auto trans. I am looking into doing a brake job on it this weekend and was wondering if I could get some pointers.

I am very familiar with working on cars, however this will be my first 4WD vehicle ever owned or worked on. My question is what will I find different once I take the front wheels to change the brakes? I am about 95% sure the rotors will need to be replaced. The previous owner installed Warn manual locking hubs on the front. Will I need to dis assemble/remove the hubs to take the rotors off? I dont want to get in there and mess something up/ break something/ do more work than whats needed to do this simple maintenance but I figure any info I can get from you guys would be helpful.

I will try to post some pics of the progress we are making on this build. My son wants to have a rock crawler/monster truck (he's only 6) but why not start them up early right?
trakesbronco is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-16-2013, 03:25 PM   #2
Pennywiserawker
Registered User
 
Pennywiserawker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Grantsville, MD
Posts: 497
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 95 XL lifted, bored and capable
Its a whole different ball game. The calipers either have "pins" you have to knock out to remove them or simply unbolt from the back. In order to change the rotors, you must first take the locking hubs off, take off the spindle nuts and take the whole hub and rotor assembly off. Then you knock the wheel studs out and separate the hub from the rotor. Then from there its reverse order.

I bought a Chilton manual for the broncos and f-series when I first bought my Bronco. That thing comes in handy even when you know what you are doing!

Welcome to FSB!!! You'll learn a lot from the ladies and gentleman lurking around here.
__________________
Built 351 w/GT40 heads, E-fan, Flowtech ceramic coated shorty headers, Bassani y-pipe, single chamber 3" muffler,10.25" rear, ZF 5spd, 16.5" chrome wagon wheels, 37"x 12.50" Goodyear Wrangler M/T OZ tires, 6" lift ProComp rear leafs, Front Leaf D60 SAS Front bumper build in progress!
Pennywiserawker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2013, 03:37 PM   #3
trakesbronco
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 33
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pennywiserawker View Post
Its a whole different ball game. The calipers either have "pins" you have to knock out to remove them or simply unbolt from the back. In order to change the rotors, you must first take the locking hubs off, take off the spindle nuts and take the whole hub and rotor assembly off. Then you knock the wheel studs out and separate the hub from the rotor. Then from there its reverse order.

I bought a Chilton manual for the broncos and f-series when I first bought my Bronco. That thing comes in handy even when you know what you are doing!

Welcome to FSB!!! You'll learn a lot from the ladies and gentleman lurking around here.
So I am guessing it would be a good idea to replace the wheel studs at the same time as well then? What about the bearings? Would those be fairly easy to change out at this time as well? I'm not sure of the design/ how they fit on this vehicle so....

I'm not even sure if it needs new wheel bearings but I had might as well while I have it all apart.
trakesbronco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 08:56 AM   #4
miesk5
Fullsize Member
 
miesk5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 12,741
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
yo T,
Description & Operation, Diagnosis & Testing, Removal & Installation, Disassembly & Assembly, Cleaning & Inspection, Adjustments, Specifications & Special Service Tools & Equipment in a 96 by Ford



Replacement in a 96 (no torque specs for bearing lock nut)
by stan the man (StanO) at FSB
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=138896

4WABS Tone Ring Removal without Press in a 95
Source: by sackman9975 (Scott) at FSB
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=180049

Replacement, W/ Wheel Bearings & Warn® Hub Swap in a 95; (but his TORQUES are off a bit). miesk5 NOTE: "Word for word from Haynes Manual Ford Pickups and Bronco 1980 - 1996 Using a lockout spanner (ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent ) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.)" thanks to Chris!!!!
Source: by Trucky18 (Bco) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/3749/14884

more in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=989

==
Drum & Shoe
see Description & Operation, Diagnosis & Testing, Removal & Installation, Disassembly & Assembly, Service Procedures, Cleaning & Inspection, Adjustments, Specifications & Special Service Tools & Equipment in a 96 again

more LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=249


==

Locking Hubs, Manual

Description & Operation, Diagnosis & Testing, Removal & Installation, Disassembly & Assembly Procedures, Adjustments, Specifications & Special Service Tools & Equipment in a 96 http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...e=stjs53cr.htm

more LINKS @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=106
=========

use that on-line 96 Bronco Workshop Manual for more repairs
__________________
96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
USN & DoD Planner (ret)
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
miesk5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 11:36 AM   #5
dirty_drew
Registered User
 
dirty_drew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Iowa
Posts: 177
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 88 Bronco, 4.9l 5 speed, 32" Falken Wild Peaks, 2" lift
Rear drums are easy if you got brake spring pliers and a brake spring/clip tool, neither of which are expensive ($20).

If you have to pull front rotors, then its a dog of a job as mentioned above.
__________________
Chevy lover
dirty_drew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 11:49 AM   #6
BigBud
Registered User
 
BigBud's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Southeast WA
Posts: 670
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: No bronco for now
You will need the dana 44 spindle nut tool to pull your front rotors and wheel bearings.
__________________
79 Bronco 6" lift, mild 460, and 3/4 tons----Sold
94 F150 4x4 302 zf5spd swap----run about
97 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 6" lift and 35" muds---work beast
BigBud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 07:04 PM   #7
V8Ranger
Registered User
 
V8Ranger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Merritt Island, FL
Posts: 91
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1996 5.8 EB, 33's
Where does one find this Dana 44 spindle nut tool? I doubt local auto parts store would carry it, order from somewhere? I ask because I have to do this now too.

Carl
__________________
The wife left a note on the fridge... "It's not working, I can't take it anymore! Gone to stay with my Mother"
I opened the fridge, the light came on and the beer was cold........
What the hell is she talking about?
V8Ranger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 07:17 PM   #8
Robs79BBbronco
Registered User
 
Robs79BBbronco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Walker, LA
Posts: 3,724
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 79 Ranger XLT-460,NP435,NP205,stock axles/3.50's,2.5"RC lift,33"trxxs mt's,72 impala horn(best mod)
Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Ranger View Post
Where does one find this Dana 44 spindle nut tool? I doubt local auto parts store would carry it,
Carl
Most do....big cup looking socket

Sent from my XT603
Robs79BBbronco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 07:21 PM   #9
TOPPNOTCH
Registered User
 
TOPPNOTCH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 32
iTrader: (0)
I goy mine from a local car parts place.
TOPPNOTCH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 08:43 PM   #10
garymunson
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: RENO NV
Posts: 140
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 93 XLT, 5.8, E4OD, manual Xfer & hubs
Be sure to change your tranny fluid and lube your drive shaft slip joint. Dropping your oil pan as far as you can to wipe the remains of the valve guide seals out and replace the pickup screen is also a good idea.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...nsmission.html
Don't bother to pull the tranny pan, the filter won't be dirty.
garymunson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 08:48 PM   #11
jowens1126
Fullsize Member
 
jowens1126's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 5,150
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 1994 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition, 302 MAF, E4OD
Brake Job is pretty simple. If your going to replace the Rotor and studs, just go for a complete hub and rotor assembly. $99.00 each at JBG or similar at NAPA. Get some grease, wheel seals, front bearings, brake pads, and you probably will need to just replace the calipers.

Read this thread.... its very helpful.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...t=front+brakes

and this one
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...t=front+brakes
__________________
1994 EB Bronco, 302 MAF, E4OD, BW1356, Slightly Customized Interior
"Demanding something free on top of a discount is just being a Democrat. - Steve83"

My Build Thread - http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=191067
jowens1126 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 08:52 PM   #12
jowens1126
Fullsize Member
 
jowens1126's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 5,150
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 1994 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition, 302 MAF, E4OD
It also would be a good idea to run a test on your ABS system. If you have a bad front wheel sensor, this would be a really convenient time to replace them.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=180453
__________________
1994 EB Bronco, 302 MAF, E4OD, BW1356, Slightly Customized Interior
"Demanding something free on top of a discount is just being a Democrat. - Steve83"

My Build Thread - http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=191067
jowens1126 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2013, 01:32 PM   #13
trakesbronco
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 33
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8
Cool Thanks for all of the info guys. I did have a chance to get it up on a lift last weekend. both front wheel bearings are shot. One of the brake pad retaining clips have popped loose and is rattling so I have found the front end rattle I have been hearing and the whine I have been hearing from the front end is most likely the bearings from what I can tell.

So I am going to replace the rotors, pads, bearings, spindle nuts and washer, wheel studs, and I also noticed the seal on my passenger side halfshaft is leaking where it goes into the front axle and I also have a bad U-joint on the front driveshaft at the front axle.

I dont plan on doing the rear brakes as of yet. They arent giving me any problems but I will go ahead take off the drums and inspect them while I have the truck up in the air.
trakesbronco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 08:40 AM   #14
trakesbronco
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 33
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8
Well I was waiting for a semi-nice day outside to start working on the bronco. Good news was yesterday was in the 70's and I got to leave early from work at 10. The bad news- the reason I had to leave early was because our sewer cleanout line got clogged and was overflowing in the back yard. Ya- no bueno.

But after I finished that ishtty job (see what I did there?) I was able to start work on the bronco. I wasn't able to get very far because I had a heck of a time getting that spindle off. It did finally come off after a lot of effort following everybodies advice. So thanks again for all the input guys.

However I noticed that my ball joints are bad. I will be needing to replace those. I have already read on here that Moog isn't the way to go I guess. I figure I will just go with Ford OEM parts. However had a question. I am guessing that I will need to take the ABS Sensor out of the knuckle before I can fully remove it. After I have removed both screws off of the back of the sensor and the shield off of the front. Should it just popout the back? Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated as this will be the next step I start on when I get home tonight.
trakesbronco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2013, 10:43 AM   #15
miesk5
Fullsize Member
 
miesk5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 12,741
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
yo T,
4WABS Sensor, Front Wheel, Removal & Installation in 93-96 Bronco; "...Step 10: Remove the ABS sensor shield. This is the part that is on the front of the steering knuckle. It wraps around the silver sensor cover and overlaps the spindle. It can be seen in the picture above on the right hand side of the spindle. Behind the steering knuckle you will find a small 12-point bolt that holds the ABS sensor shield to the knuckle. Use the 6mm 12 point socket to remove this bolt. The sheild on the knuckle should fall off or come off easily. If not, you can PB Blast the spot where the shield rests against the steering knuckle and let it sit for a few minutes, then tap lightly with the SFH. If you have to use force to remove the shield, be very careful not to damage the sensor. Step 11: Remove the bolt holding the sensor. Above the small bolt you just removed, you will see a larger bolt that holds the rear sensor cover and the sensor against the back of the steering knuckle. Use the 8 mm socket to remove this bolt. NOTE: You will not have to remove the sensor to remove the spindle, only the bolt..."
Source: by Shane C. (BigBlue, bigbluebronk) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=102256

more 4WABS Brake info Links in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=240

Rotors/Pads, Drums, MC @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=35

Ball Joint @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=723

GL
__________________
96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
USN & DoD Planner (ret)
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
miesk5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2013, 01:13 PM   #16
trakesbronco
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 33
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8
Hey M,

Thanks for all of the help and everyone else as well. I finished up the drivers side last night. The job wasn't as bad/difficult as I though it would be. Just a lot of stuck parts makes things a bit more time consuming. Waiting on the inner spindle bearing seal so I can do the passenger side next. Can't wait to really start driving this thing like it should be driven. I will keep you guys posted if I run into any issues.
trakesbronco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2013, 09:18 AM   #17
trakesbronco
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 33
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8
Okay so I finally got some decent enough weather to do the passenger side brakes/bearings. I took the locking cap off and started to remove the locking hub. It was having trouble coming out for some reason. When i finally got it out the spring that keeps pressure on the inner ring of the locking hub was sticking out of the back of it. The whole back of the locking hub was gone- shaved off into a million pieces and packed into the grease. Any idea what could have caused this?

Also when I took the hub/rotor assembly off there was a type of seal still left on the spindle. It wasnt the inner wheel bearing seal that presses into the back side of the hub but another seal that was setting on the spindle behind the hub. I dont remember my drivers side having a seal like this on it when I took everything apart. Is there supposed to be a seal there? It looks similar to the inner spindle bearing seal but slightly larger.

(BTW I have Warn manual lockers. Also both of the spindle nuts were so loose I could have removed them by just turning the socket with my hand- not sure if this played a role in the destruction of my locking hub???)
trakesbronco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2013, 09:35 AM   #18
miesk5
Fullsize Member
 
miesk5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 12,741
iTrader: (2)
Bronco Info: 96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
yo T,
Here is the seal info;
Dana 44 Spindle & Seal Part Numbers for 95-96; "...Ford has replaced some of the numbers with seals that are not correct. When I did mine last year (96, not sure how closee to yours), the parts guy new his stuff and said when they crossed some numbers they didn't get it right. I went to five dealers and each had the same problem. Don't go to Pep Boys and get the seals they sell. Even though they are Chicago Rawhide, same as Napa relabel, they are not the better ones. The parts they have are a very cheap version, which may work, but I wouldn't trust. Napa had to order in the 25009, but they got it in a day. As far as seal 3, the one I got new from Ford was one piece, but the one that came out broke into the three pieces. If you get the Ford one, you will see how easy it is to snap apart. Seal 2 is actually a smaller version of seal 6, but the oneFord parts guy said that they don't have a replacement. Fortunately Napa has one. They have one part D3TZ3C132A that they try to sell. It is a metal slinger that could be pressed in place of seal 2, but it has no sealing properties, just a stamped part that looks like a washer with a lip where it slides over the axle. Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009 http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+-+Front+Wheel Item 7 is Napa NOS23276..."
Source: by Tony R (TonyR) at FSB http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...t+spindle+seal



1 3A329 Halfshaft
2 3C132 (Axle) Rolling Diaphragm Seal
3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal
4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle
5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle
6 3254 Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (also called, OUTER)
7 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal
8 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
9 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor
10 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup — 4222)
11 — Pin (Part of 1195)
12 1195 Inner Lock Nut
13 1198 Lockwasher
14 1197 Outer Lock Nut
15 — Steel Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
16 — Plastic Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
17 — Splined Thrust Washer (Part of 3B458)
18 3B457 C-Ring
19 1K105 Hub Body
20 — Lock Ring (Part of 1K106)
21 1K104 Cup
22 1K104 Capscrew
A — While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearing. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn).
B — Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft)
C — Tighten to 4-6 Nm (35-53 Lb-In)

read what Tony R said;
Item 2 is Ford F3TZ1S175BBA
Item 3 is FOrd F3TZ1SZ175AA
Item 6 is NAPA NOS25009
Item 7 is Napa NOS23276

--

Warn manual lockers failure
Prob. Causes;
Yes, loose bearing locknut (or over-torqued in other cases)
carmelized grease
lack of Maintenance (no grease) or over greasing in other cases
"Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks.
Clean and lightly grease internal working surfaces.
To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..." Source: by Warn®


or cap's O-ring is damaged & contaminants creeped in
__________________
96 XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
USN & DoD Planner (ret)
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!

my broncolinks.com was "disturbed"; but some sections are archived @ [url]http://web.archive.org/web/20121009110424/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php
select a LINK, Right Click & Hit Properties; copy the second HTTP address; paste in a new browser window or Tab to see original page
miesk5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2013, 09:51 AM   #19
trakesbronco
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 33
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8
So M,

Does this exploded parts diagram apply to both the driver and passenger side setup? cause like I said I dont remember there being seal #6 on the drivers side when I pulled everything apart and I want to put it on there before I start to drive this thing again if it needs it.
trakesbronco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2013, 10:34 AM   #20
Fox005
The Original FullSize
 
Fox005's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Nevada City Nor-Cal USA
Posts: 869
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 78 Bronco Ranger XLT 408 stroker , C6 6" lift and shackle flip , sport bar , LEDs , 35x12
Same on both sides.
__________________
I Dont always go Wheeling, but when I Do I prefer "Juggernaught" 78 Bronco XLT Ranger
Fox005 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  FSB Forums > Bronco Discussions > Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone!


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:45 AM.


© 2003-2009 FullSizeBronco.com. All rights reserved