need to move radius arm bracket slightly - FSB Forums
Register Home Forums Active Topics Photo Gallery All Albums Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance FSB Store
FullsizeBronco.com is the premier Ford Bronco Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-16-2013, 07:55 PM   #1
Kingfish999
Nothing beets a Fullsize
 
Kingfish999's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Palm Harbor FL
Posts: 4,876
iTrader: (18)
Bronco Info: 96 Bronco 5.8 DD, 88 Bronco motorless Mudder
need to move radius arm bracket slightly

so ive had these procomp extended radius arms installed for awhile now. i installed the bracket back the distance the instructions online say (i think 15" IIRC) but i htink that was too far. my wheels have always been looking like there too far back in the fenders and its really annoying to me. i need an easy way to move the wheels up an inch or 2. dont really want to drill all new holes and make the frame any weaker than it is. dont think theres enough threadsfor a spacer but theres too many threads for an extension. any ideas?
__________________

-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
Kingfish999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-16-2013, 08:25 PM   #2
Alvin in AZ
AKA: Butthead
 
Alvin in AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gadsden Purchase
Posts: 2,880
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
Heck, how do your axles line up with their pivot points? :/

I don't see anything wrong with well made extensions or drilling more holes.

YMMV? :)

Alvin in AZ
Alvin in AZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2013, 08:32 PM   #3
TheUnforgiven
Dr. Brian & Mr. Unfer
 
TheUnforgiven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oswego, Illinois
Posts: 18,337
iTrader: (10)
Bronco Info: 2006 Kia Spectra
you don't have much option. make an extension, or drill more holes. if you're waiting for a magic fairy to come along and create another option or move them, you're sadly mistaken.
__________________
2006 Kia Spectra 4 banger/5 speed that tows a 14ft boat while getting better gas mileage than any of your broncos could ever dream of getting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by "Bronco" John Galt View Post
New nuts are in the plan.
"Kids, they see the good in everything and through their eyes, they open ours." - Hank Davis
TheUnforgiven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2013, 08:38 PM   #4
Fox005
The Original FullSize
 
Fox005's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Nevada City Nor-Cal USA
Posts: 860
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 78XLT Ranger,6"and35x12, Built351,Race Rad,Roll Bar,100MPH Speedo,Tach,LED Lights ,
Post a picture please that might help us see the issue? Sounds like you may be plug welding old holes (a couple holes aren't going to break the frame) and redrilling as much as you dont want too. I welded some 1'' stitch welds and bolted all aftermaket lift stuff (especially if riveted)after a bad experience with cracking my crossmember.
Fox005 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2013, 08:54 PM   #5
JBfab
Registered User
 
JBfab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Slatington, PA
Posts: 2,442
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: 94 C150 prerunner 351/zf/maf. To many mods to list.
Im with fox. Weld the holes shut and redrill. I know you dont have a welder but id hit your buddy up. Use a flat piece of copper on the backside of the hole when you weld. this will keep you from having to grind on the inside of the frame and make life alittle easier.

I went with 14.5" myself. And then foundout theres a spacer for the post that will move me anouther 5/8 forward. The spacer is a factory rancho thing that didnt come with my used arms.
__________________
It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog!
Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825
JBfab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2013, 09:05 PM   #6
Kingfish999
Nothing beets a Fullsize
 
Kingfish999's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Palm Harbor FL
Posts: 4,876
iTrader: (18)
Bronco Info: 96 Bronco 5.8 DD, 88 Bronco motorless Mudder
this is when i first lifted the front. the rear only had 2" block at the time

heres a more recent picture i took a few days ago


i guess ill have to do that. maby ill get alittle plate steel and bolt it in place. i jsut dont want to swisscheese my frame and weaken it any worse considering how hard i am to it. the holes are already 1/2 and some are 5/8 cause thats all i had with me when i put them on. i guess if i push it further forwarward enough that it might not weaken it too bad. but my tires already destroyed alot of things due to this problem. my AC box now has no bottom on the passenger side and my fuse box and wiring harnes were damaged on the driver side
__________________

-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
Kingfish999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2013, 09:22 PM   #7
Fox005
The Original FullSize
 
Fox005's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Nevada City Nor-Cal USA
Posts: 860
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 78XLT Ranger,6"and35x12, Built351,Race Rad,Roll Bar,100MPH Speedo,Tach,LED Lights ,
You Definately should inspect all the other brackets . I wonder if your seats are ready to pull through the floor ? Looks like its being worked hard going for that win
Fox005 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 08:30 AM   #8
Kingfish999
Nothing beets a Fullsize
 
Kingfish999's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Palm Harbor FL
Posts: 4,876
iTrader: (18)
Bronco Info: 96 Bronco 5.8 DD, 88 Bronco motorless Mudder
mostly everything is fine. it is beatin on very hard. manly the only damage is the front clip from somethnig unrelated. but its had the problem since i installed it
__________________

-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
Kingfish999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 10:42 AM   #9
kemicalburns
Never Done
 
kemicalburns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: OC,Oregon
Posts: 6,486
iTrader: (5)
mine is very similar to yours. I did locate some of those so called spacers. I may go in a double them up as i have 2 sets now. i still have over an inch of thread so i dont think there would be an issue. naturally moving the brackets forward would be the best solution. I would measure off of the original (stock) bracket holes so you are sure to get things lined up properly.
__________________
94 XLT 357/E4OD Trans-go stage II
6" Stage II ProComp,35x12.50BFG/AT
4.88 f (aussie) / r (open) / Custom Sliders
JBA headers,Custom Y pipe hi flow cat & Full 3"
kemicalburns is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 12:42 PM   #10
Kingfish999
Nothing beets a Fullsize
 
Kingfish999's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Palm Harbor FL
Posts: 4,876
iTrader: (18)
Bronco Info: 96 Bronco 5.8 DD, 88 Bronco motorless Mudder
what kind of arms are yours? i have almost no threads really for a spacer. have about a half inch of threads left and thats jsut enough to get the nut started when installing. im almost thinknig of getting hiem joints and a coupling to go on the threads make new mounts be be done with it. i did get a nice stick welder today but i still ahve to learn and get a plug for it
__________________

-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
Kingfish999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 02:54 PM   #11
Alvin in AZ
AKA: Butthead
 
Alvin in AZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gadsden Purchase
Posts: 2,880
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: '91 RoadQueen 351w-2wd-ZF camtiming+4* 265/75-16E's dual Ranchos F&R, SuperCab bench seat EEC=F250
Quote:
Originally Posted by kemicalburns View Post
I would measure off of the original (stock) bracket holes so
you are sure to get things lined up {the same as before}.
x2 :)

That's how I would've done it to start with tho. :/

If the instructions told me a different number...
I'd'a been on that friggin' phone like-right-now! LOL :)

Alvin in AZ
Alvin in AZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 03:12 PM   #12
jermil01
Charlie doesn't surf!!
 
jermil01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: JAX, FLA
Posts: 11,728
iTrader: (31)
Bronco Info: 1992 xlt, 351EFI, .040, E40D, D44 SAS w/Trutrac, Detroit locked 8.8, MAF conv, Tweecer tuned..
I wouldn't be that worried about drilling a couple of extra holes in the frame. Seriously doubt it would compromise things that much.

After doing my SAS, I've always regretted not have located the axle a little farther forward. but that's water under the bridge..I wound up trimming my fenders b/c the 37's were rubbing bad...


In my opinion, if you're just beating on it, save yourself the headache and trim those fenders. they look like they've seen better days anyway.
__________________

Vote 4 Top 4x4 Site!!!
jermil01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 03:26 PM   #13
Kingfish999
Nothing beets a Fullsize
 
Kingfish999's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Palm Harbor FL
Posts: 4,876
iTrader: (18)
Bronco Info: 96 Bronco 5.8 DD, 88 Bronco motorless Mudder
it will eventually get new probably glass fenders. idk when that will be but i the fenders are is horrible shape.

the arms and lift i bought used from Bronconut. i looked online for the instructions which i could only find on summitracing. they do say 15" so thats what i did. plus the arms he sent had his old brackets on them which were notched to clear a specific bolt so it had to go there.
__________________

-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
Kingfish999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 03:43 PM   #14
kemicalburns
Never Done
 
kemicalburns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: OC,Oregon
Posts: 6,486
iTrader: (5)
I have the procomp arms as well. wonder if your bushings are on properly if you only have that much thread available. doesnt seem right.
__________________
94 XLT 357/E4OD Trans-go stage II
6" Stage II ProComp,35x12.50BFG/AT
4.88 f (aussie) / r (open) / Custom Sliders
JBA headers,Custom Y pipe hi flow cat & Full 3"
kemicalburns is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 03:58 PM   #15
Evan_P
Registered User
 
Evan_P's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 133
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 1992 F150 Flreside Extended Cab 5.8 4X4.
Here's mine with Pro Comp extended arms. Your definitely look further back.

__________________
1992 F150 Flareside XLT, 5.8 351W, E4OD, 4WD, Manual BW1356, 3.55 gearing, 4" Pro-Comp suspension lift, 33x12.5x15 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs
Evan_P is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2013, 05:02 PM   #16
Brochoncho
Registered User
 
Brochoncho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atlanta, ga
Posts: 488
iTrader: (9)
Bronco Info: 94 Bronco 351 ZF5 4inch Procomp lift 33's basani Y mostly rebuilt...
yeah the directions were wrong I did the same thing with my procomps. But mine did not look as bad as yours. I couldn't find any good side shots of mine when I did but this one. you can see the shocks leaning forward in the pic.



here it is fixed i can't remember the measurements but could get them if needed.
__________________

77 Scout SSII 460 c6/np205 Dana 60/14blt H2 wheels 36 Irok radials
Brochoncho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 11:56 PM   #17
Kingfish999
Nothing beets a Fullsize
 
Kingfish999's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Palm Harbor FL
Posts: 4,876
iTrader: (18)
Bronco Info: 96 Bronco 5.8 DD, 88 Bronco motorless Mudder
tonight i started trying to move the brackets up. i measured they there about 2-3" too far back. got it all drilled on 1 side but i couldnt get it in position. the radius arm wont pivot enouhg of the axle beam to allow it. it actually wont piviot enough to let me move it forward almost at all. i loosened the 2 bolts holding it on and it still didnt pivot so i took the radius arm off and started grinding but it didnt help. guess im dead in hte water with it where it is
__________________

-----96 5.0 E4OD--------------88 5.8 C6--------------96 5.8 E4OD------
---------KIA-------------------Mud/Trail---------------Daily Driver------
Kingfish999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2013, 01:11 AM   #18
broncobill67
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: southern Oregon
Posts: 91
iTrader: (0)
Bronco Info: 66,67,69,76,89,96,96,
Mine are pro comps also and I had enough threads barely to start the nutz. My tires are centered in the wheel well. Look for a mig welder..dont stick it!!
broncobill67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2013, 02:05 AM   #19
Steve83
Registered User
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 36,297
iTrader: (101)
Bronco Info: '83 VIN & title on '93 frame/body w/'95 4.9L & EB paint
Why you gotta do that to a '96? Couldn't you have found an '81 or something to beat the shit out of?

Anyway...
Don't use the (BEATEN & probably shifted) body as any kind of reference for the suspension. Park on a flat surface and sight down each front tire to make sure they're pointed straight ahead (on average). Then measure the wheelbase to the center of each hub, or to corresponding locations on each rim. It should be 104 11/16". If you have to redrill the frame to move the RA brackets, try to follow the instructions in this caption:



The RAs are keyed to the brackets bolted to the front of each axle tube (where the front shocks go, even if the bracket doesn't have that stud), so that's probably why you couldn't swivel the RA even after loosening its bolts. You may have to bend, reduce, or remove the key to allow the RAs to swing.

Once you have the brackets loose from the frame, I'd use vise-grips &/or C-clamps to hold them on while using a sledge hammer to carefully position each axle tube. Measure several times before drilling again.

I'm not a great welder, but I wouldn't use any metal plate to back up a plug weld. Something nonmetallic (like a brick) won't start or carry the arc.
__________________
Walk softly & carry a BIG SIX ! ! !

. .
Steve83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2013, 03:19 AM   #20
cajunrebel
Chillin on the Gulf Coast
 
cajunrebel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Florida, from Louisiana
Posts: 1,513
iTrader: (4)
Bronco Info: Blue 89' EB 5.0, E4OD, OBDII, Mass Air, Saginaw, Hydroboost, 3G alt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
I'm not a great welder, but I wouldn't use any metal plate to back up a plug weld. Something nonmetallic (like a brick) won't start or carry the arc.
Brass or copper is what is normally used to back up fill welds in steel. Those two will not stick when you electrically weld with them as a backer. Smiggey just had to repair some backing plates on his dad's D60 rear drums. He used a fired 20MM casing as his backer. One of these days I would like to fill weld the unused holes in my frame to have a clean slate to work with.
cajunrebel is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  FSB Forums > Bronco Discussions > Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone!


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:11 AM.


2003-2009 FullSizeBronco.com. All rights reserved