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Old 01-22-2013, 06:58 PM   #1
basssque
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Can't get M5R2 into gear while running

1996 Ford Bronco M5R2 5 speed
Can't get into any gear except reverse while running.
Can shift into all gears while the truck is off. Any idea's?
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:03 PM   #2
Jasonhughes2009
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Physically wont go in or you try and get that horrible grinding noise?

Start basic and check clutch fluid (if it applies) and linkage to make sure your clutch is engaging and disengaging properly. Make nothings horrifically bent.

Can you get it into any other gear while running apart from first?
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:47 PM   #3
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No grinding noise, just won't go into gear besides reverse while running period. It's like the tranny is pushing back. I can go through every gear with ease when the truck is off.
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:54 PM   #4
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I would then start by checking everything related to clutch engagement and disengagement. Is this a new transmission or one that youve been running for awhile and these problems just started occurring?

Fighting in what way. Pushing so hard that you feel you'll break the shaft or it pops out once you get it in gear. Did you check your ball and detents? Anything odd with the shaft linkage?
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:35 AM   #5
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How's the clutch feel in the pedal?

Mine acts up "sorta" like that when the hydraulic fluid gets low.
(it leaks like a sieve)

--------------------------

Read many times where the Mazda-R2's have fork problems.

I've got 2 .pdf files on how to rebuild a Mazda-R2 but they're on
another computer, if you want me to up-load 'em let me know. :)

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Old 01-23-2013, 02:14 AM   #6
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Exact same symptoms as my car when I was running a hydraulic clutch and the throw out bearing was leaking.

Hard to speculate unless you have a hydraulic system, but it sounds like your clutch is definitely not engaging.

Do you have clutch pedal or does it go to the floor with little resistance?
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:17 PM   #7
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clutch petal goes to the floor with little resistance
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:02 PM   #8
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Watch.. Same system principles. I'm troubleshooting the same issue even. Replaced the master cylinder, and am bleeding the system now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:13 PM   #9
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Let me know how it goes. The strange thing here is I can get into reverse though don't forget...
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:16 PM   #10
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Sounds like your slave cylinder is bad. It has something to do with the hydraulic. I'd almost guarantee it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:17 PM   #11
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Do you have fluid in the clutch master? define "pedal goes to floor with little resistance".....does it feel spongy, soft or low?

check the master level, there's a diaphragm in there you'll have to pull out.

didn't you just do an engine swap? did you change any clutch parts while you were there?
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:21 PM   #12
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I'd found this vid the other day and it saved me a LOT of headache figuring out the connector! The plastic collar on mine is pretty ****led from PO tampering, so I'm on hold till I find a replacement. But you'll likely end up disconnecting this on yours before its all over.. This video is GREAT STUFF!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVjEM...03jXg&index=19

May be a few days (My Bronco is more a toy than a daily driver, and it's COLD OUTSIDE!), but I'll keep you posted. Look for leaks around the whole hydraulic system. I haven't found any on mine, but it would be an easy indicator if you find one under your slave cylinder or something.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:57 AM   #13
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My M5OD leaks more fluid than it holds. When it runs out the clutch goes to the floor and will almost stay there, and shifting is out of the question.

Once i had to shut the truck off in a turning lane, put it in gear and then crank it back up to go. Check that master cylinder, mine was dry.
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:14 AM   #14
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M5R2 top plates tend to go bad alot (between 150k-200k miles).

That will give you those exact symptoms. Rip out the carpet and take off the inspection panel in the floor and take off the top plate. You'll be able to see what I'm talking about.

I've seen it happen on 2 Mazda M5R2s in F150s. Sometimes whne they wear out you'll be able to go into gear, but nothing will happen, other times you can't get it in gear, can't get it out of gear, it will go into gear but will go WAYYYYYY past it's normal stop position.

Sometimes some gears will work, some wont. Other times none work.

When mine went bad I had nothing except reverse. I replaced it with a junkyard plate that I thought I could get away with. Lost 3rd within a week.
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:14 PM   #15
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top plate wouldn't effect the clutch pedal though.. I don't believe anyway :/

The shift forks having a problem could well keep it from going into gear, but the pedal wouldn't feel any different, or stay at the bottom.
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:55 AM   #16
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top plate wouldn't effect the clutch pedal though.. I don't believe anyway :/

The shift forks having a problem could well keep it from going into gear, but the pedal wouldn't feel any different, or stay at the bottom.
It's not like the M5r2 has resistance to start with.

Could be the slave cylinder aswell. Now that I think about it, that makes more sense. If the topplate was worn, it wouldn't be going into gear regardless if the truck was on or off. Those aren't any fun to replace!
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:34 AM   #17
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Well, the search for the O-ring on the fitting has ended poorly. I could find O-rings rated for use with fuel that MAY last... Not knowing for sure my original is bad, I decided to push the fitting back in exactly as it was, loosened the bleed port and bled out about 2oz's of fluid, jumped in the truck and rooma zoom zoom, she works like a champ. SO, the problem coulda been as simple as the system needed bled out with fresh clean fluid (old stuff had a black tint to it), the master cylinder I replaced (cause it was easy & cheap), OR the slave cylinder, or the fitting on it have a slow leak that I've really done nothing to repair other than add more / fresh fluid.. Only time will tell, but for a while I'll be keeping a CLOSE eye on fluid level, and a bottle of brake fluid and an 8mm deep well socket in the truck with me so if it leaks out I can "fix it" enough to get home! :/
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:23 PM   #18
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Basssque, took the Bronc out for about a 60 mile trip in city driving, musta used the clutch well over 100 times, checked the fluid, no sign of any loss at all, clutch works smooth and perfect like new. :)

Try just bleeding yours out per the vids I put links to above before you do anything else. Coulda been the master cylinder I replaced as well, but don't spend any money you don't have to.

Good luck!
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:31 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by BigCheeseStick View Post
Only time will tell, but for a while I'll be keeping a CLOSE eye on fluid level,
and a bottle of brake fluid and an 8mm deep well socket in the truck with
me so if it leaks out I can "fix it" enough to get home! :/
Cool post. :)

And good plan too. :)

-------------------------------

But, you already-done-knowed you don't really -have- to release the
clutch to shift and drive it and start it rolling too. ...right? ;)

Clutch release systems can fail and you can still get the vehicle home.

May not be your favorite way to drive your-own manual-equipt vehicle,
but'll work.

Like I said, good plan, and better than all that "driving half broke down"
crap I just typed out. ;)

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Old 02-09-2013, 04:32 AM   #20
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Update on this.. Slave cylinder IS still leaking. Works great for a while, then right back to the original problem (won't go in gear unless I shut off the engine). Refill the master cylinder, and I'm back in business (for a while).

My question is, when you guys have replaced the slave cylinder is it possible to leave the transfer case bolted to the trans, & leave the cross member / skid plate in place, then just slide the transmission back far enough to swap out the slave cylinder?
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