Topper Bolts...Tightening Sequence?

[JScatt]

Is there a tightening sequence for the fiberglass top bolts? Or just tighten side to side starting with the long bolts along the top?
I removed my top last weekend for paint and replaced the seals while it was off.
It rained today and it is leaking from the top left corner, it leaked before but not there.
I also noticed that the gap between the A pillar and the top is slightly wider on the leaky side. Perhaps it is cocked?
I'm gunna loosen it up this weekend and re- tighten the bolts just wondering if there is a sequence.

[war1ock]

Ive never tightened them in a certain sequence except I start with the front bolts then just do one side then the other side. Never had a leak knock on wood lol

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[379sinvb]

I get mine all started and then tighten down the front but not to tight. Then I'll pick a side and switch back & forth front to back until all are semi tight. Then I'll go back over them all with one more turn.

[Andrew James]

I run three or so bolts and no leak... Just loosen up and make sure its sitting right then tighten down.

[Shane C.]

I get them all started then tighten the middle top then alternate driver side to passenger side moving from that top center bolt all the way to the back bolts. I usually crank em down good and dont go back over them although thats probly a good idea (I am too impatient). If the foam is good and the top is properly seated, I dont know that a tightening sequence matters, but thats how I do mine.

[fartman]

one in the middle then one at each corner, never leaks. dont over think it.

[JScatt]

Alright, well I guess I will loosen it up then pull it back a bit to re-seat it. What is the thread size of the bolts?
Thanks for the input!

[JScatt]

Just an update on my progress of finding these damn leaks.
The water is leaking through the seams of the top.
Least I know the problem and thanks to Steve83 how to fix it.

[Steve83]

The captions in my Camper Shell & Sliding Windows album have all the info on bolt threads. Ford never published a tightening sequence for it, but I usually put the bolts into the nut plates first, then those in the U-nuts. If the seal has a light coat of silicone lube or grease all the way around, it's not necessary to tighten-loosen-tighten.

[JScatt]

Originally Posted by Steve83

The captions in my Camper Shell & Sliding Windows album have all the info on bolt threads. Ford never published a tightening sequence for it, but I usually put the bolts into the nut plates first, then those in the U-nuts. If the seal has a light coat of silicone lube or grease all the way around, it's not necessary to tighten-loosen-tighten.

Yeah, I read through your camper shell album. Lots of good info, especially about resealing the seams of the top which is the source of my leaks.
After pulling the top back about six inches I found that everywhere around the seals was dry as a bone.
After running a hose on the top I could see that the water was coming from between the two sections of the top.
Turns out the factory seam sealer was pretty much shit.
What would be the best way to remove the old stuff? I was thinking of using one of those hand held tile grout removers.

[Steve83]

Didn't you read the TSB that specifically explains how to fix that? It's linked in those captions.

[cajunrebel]

Here is Steve's referenced link.

[JScatt]

Originally Posted by Steve83

Didn't you read the TSB that specifically explains how to fix that? It's linked in those captions.

Yes I did read the TSB. It says to remove the old sealer but doesn't say how.

After looking at the TSB pic it doesn't seem like water could leak through to the inside of the truck even if the old seam sealer was cracked...am I missing somthing here?

[Steve83]

Originally Posted by JScatt

...doesn't say how.

Steps 1a & 1b aren't explicit enough?

Originally Posted by JScatt

...it doesn't seem like water could leak through to the inside of the truck even if the old seam sealer was cracked...am I missing somthing here?

I guess you're missing the meaning of the word "cosmetic". It means: "only affecting appearance - not functionality". IOW, the cracks just make it ugly; they don't actually allow anything through (since the fiberglass is glued together, and the cracked sealer just fills the groove at the joint). You say yours are leaking - OK. Ford never found that, but the repair should still work, if that's actually where your leak is.

[JScatt]

No, I did not miss the word cosmetic which made wonder if the cracked sealer was the actual cause of the leak.
Anyway, after removing the old sealer I could see small gaps between the two sections that are glued together and the leak got way worse with the sealer removed.

[Shane C.]

Not sure what your goal with the topper is (trying to keep it stock?) but I know guys who have had them in pretty bad shape who prepped them the rhino lined them. That sealed them up and they looked pretty sharp. Thats the current plan for mine...

[JScatt]

Originally Posted by Shane C.

Not sure what your goal with the topper is (trying to keep it stock?) but I know guys who have had them in pretty bad shape who prepped them the rhino lined them. That sealed them up and they looked pretty sharp. Thats the current plan for mine...

My top had holes in it from a rack that the PO had on it. After the holes were fixed I thought about rhino lining it cuz it does look cool but decided to sand off the factory texture then paint it. It looks pretty good smooth.