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Old 01-26-2013, 04:18 PM   #1
Coleaclark
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Bronco Info: 93 XLT 351w E40D 6" Toyo Mt Stock Motor
Buying rebuilt 351w what do you think pictures included

Hey all what do you guys think about this motor?? $$ 1,499.00





Rebuilt Small Block Ford 351 Windsor Short Block 0 Miles
All Parts Jetwashed & Shot Blasted Clean
Block - Bored & Honed + .030, Lifter Bores Honed, Painted
Crank - Shot Peened, Resized, & Polished
Rods - Shot Peened & Resized
Cam - Custom Ground Performance
Heads - Performance 3 Angle Valve Job, Bronze Guides, Big Block Springs
New Parts Include - Pistons, Rings, Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings Timing Set, Cam, Gaskets, Oil Pump
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:38 PM   #2
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Depends on the pistons? and the rest of the parts used in the build
They should not have to re-size the rods, the crank is what should be ground smaller and then you use ovresized bearings for the now smaller crank.
Has it been balanced? Also what heads are on it?
Also I would ask for specific details on the cam, as if this is going in the '93 listed in your info you might run into issue there.
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:57 PM   #3
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That's not an F4TE (Roller) Block. It's a D4 (1974) block. It will probably be just fine, Run fine, but you may already have the F4TE block in your truck without the roller cam. If they're asking for a core, I don't know if I'd want to part with that.

Definitely get the specs on the cam.....You want to make sure it will work with your SD setup.

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Originally Posted by CrazyBRONCOguy View Post
They should not have to re-size the rods.....
That's called reconditioning the rods. They cut the cap down, then resize the hole. It doesn't change the length.
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Last edited by sackman9975; 01-26-2013 at 05:45 PM. Reason: added info from previous quote
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:01 PM   #4
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that makes sense on the rods. Same as line honing the mains only it just makes the hole round again instead of also aligning them to one another.
I looked at the pics some more and it looks like it has some ARP hardware on it too, so that makes it worth some more then just a stock rebuild, or would to me
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Last edited by CrazyBRONCOguy; 01-26-2013 at 06:10 PM.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:42 PM   #5
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well i talked with the guy today and he said that cam wont work but we can put a different one in that will so what cam should be a good choice and would this be a good motor? btw he does not care about my core i told him im putting it in a sand rail
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:56 PM   #6
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they are seal power pistons the motor has 300 hp
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:43 PM   #7
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so what should i do guys would this be a good motor ?
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:12 PM   #8
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Its not a bad motor. What are those heads? Do they have the ports in the rear for your smog pump? If not you will have to deal with removing that. About the best thing that you could do if you are wanting to have a motor ready for yours coming out is go to the junkyard and pull a 94-97 5.8 and rebuild it. Just pull the heads in the yard and see the condition of the cylinders. A 94+ block should be roller ready at minimum. Thats atleast what I am planning to do this summer.
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:41 AM   #9
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Bronco Info: '90 xlt 351w E40D Truetrac I GOT ROLLER ROCKERS !
Get you a quality set of roller rockers on those heads, The valve guides will just love that.
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:23 AM   #10
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do they help out alot?? and do you think this motor word be a good choice?
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Old 01-27-2013, 05:55 AM   #11
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I am getting a bad feeling that this is not going to end well.

Do you have any engine building experience?

what is the reason the guy is abandoning his build?
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunrebel View Post
Its not a bad motor. What are those heads? Do they have the ports in the rear for your smog pump?
Great question! I didn't even think about that being an older motor.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:42 AM   #13
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Bronco Info: '90 xlt 351w E40D Truetrac I GOT ROLLER ROCKERS !
Cole, All roller rockers are going to do on a stock motor are keep the valve guides from being side loaded when the rockers actuate the valves, therefore cutting a path in the valve guides {in the long run} and eliminating the stock fulcrum sukkage. Do not buy them for the 3 or 4 h.p. that you will get.... That timing chain kinda sucks too.... kinda.
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:56 PM   #14
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You will never get 300hp out of that engine. To make that hp the heads would have to flow 40 hp over those stock heads you have there. Also the compression would have to be at least 9.1 or so and those pistons look like original stock dished pistons. With the increased hp you would also need upgraded exhaust over stock and upgrade in injectors and etc etc. You have there a good built stock engine with about 230 or 240 hp the way it looks.
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Old 01-27-2013, 05:18 PM   #15
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70s engines are dime a dozen. someone is always trying to pawn off a 70s 351 or 302 off on someone in every major city on craigslist. I wouldn't put it no 94+ ford truck I cared about.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:06 PM   #16
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Downsides:

2 piece rear seal 70's casting, nothing special or noteworthy here.
Rods are probably from a passenger car
Paint on oil pan rail and pump attaching point worries me. Typically you do NOT paint these.

Offer him $600, if he does not take it then walk away. Get an F4TE from the pick-n-pull and rebuild it yourself.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:09 PM   #17
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I think you could do better.Maybe go to a wrecking yard and find a explorer with a 302 in it with the p40 heads. tell the pick-a-part guys you need some explorer 302 heads. And maybe you can get out of there cheap. Dont say you,re looking for P40 heads.Price will go up. And then find a newer F4TE block. Take it to a good machine shop for about $500 bucks for hot tank,bore,hone,surface block,new cam bearings,and freeze plugs.pick a good cam from the SD EFI cam choices on here.with new roller timing chain,and high pressure oil pump.And have the machine shop set you up with a new set of SRP pistons with a little more compression.Up from the stock 8.8 to 9.5:1 or so.I would think you could come close to the motor your looking at price wise.And be alot better foundation.Not to mention more HP.JMHO.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:28 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWheelz View Post
Downsides:

2 piece rear seal 70's casting, nothing special or noteworthy here.
Rods are probably from a passenger car
Paint on oil pan rail and pump attaching point worries me. Typically you do NOT paint these.

Offer him $600, if he does not take it then walk away. Get an F4TE from the pick-n-pull and rebuild it yourself.
In BOLD is a very good point also BigWheelz!!! This is a machined surface for a reason. The oil pump should bolt up metal to metal. Some people on here (including myself) do not use a gasket for the oil pump. It's much better to mount the pump without the gasket, and directly to the block. If the gasket was to blow, it's like having a hole in your straw from McDonalds......It's harder to pull the fluid up
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:37 PM   #19
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I would look at jegs or summit racing , get yourself a performance engine,over just a stocker..
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:12 PM   #20
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he also said he can rebuild mine if i wanted him to. Would that be a better options he said i could have him put what ever i want in it im only gonna have around $$1600 to play with and thats the only decent price i have found unless you guys can point me into the right direction or just have him rebuild my motor also this a machine shop he builds them
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