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Old 02-02-2013, 06:44 PM   #1
ponyboy88
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Pick up vs bronco, driveline angle, double Cardan?

I am hoping to shorten the wheelbase of my f350 to a more bronco-ish 105-108 inch wheelbase. I remember reading from when I had a bronco that there was a difference between tailshafts on the bronco and pick up, would I have to switch to a bronco tailshaft to fit a double Cardan and make this work?

Also how concerned should I be with driveline angle? Would a double Cardan still require me to reangle the rear axle? The f350 seems to sit stock at about a 3-4 inch lift on a bronco...

Thanks for any and all help.
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:50 PM   #2
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Also, since I no doubt will have to order a new shaft, should I bother with a slip shaft like a bronco comes with?
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:11 PM   #3
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i think its your choice really. the slip yoke isnt really meant for short wheelbase and you could run the risk of it falling out when fully flexed out. or you could convert the transfer case to fixed yoke with a slip yoke eliminator and so a slip shaft with less problems but cost more.

with the DC joint, you want the axles yoke to point as close to the transfercases yoke as possible. you could use angle shims or weld new spring perches on.


EDIT: didnt think of the f350 possibly being 2wd. but it should still be the same idea. without the transfercase tho, a slipyoke might not be a problem
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:40 PM   #4
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In my opinion you defintely need to switch to the Bronco transfer case with a fixed rear output yoke and double cardan front joint, the E40D 90-96 Bronco driveshaft is only 23 3/8" compressed and 27 3/8" extended acording to Bronco Graveyard. Consider a slightly longer wheelbase for better stabilty, longer driveshaft and better driveshaft angle. My 1978 F150 4x4 has a 117" wheelbase which I think is a very good overall wheelbase.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:45 PM   #5
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Truck is 4x4, and I am pretty sure it is a 1356 (1995... Not sure on the years for the ford tc's). Im building this truck for primarily off roading, so I am prolly safer with a fixed yoke, which looks like I might have to hunt down a broncos to replace. Anyone have a Picture of one versus the other, I have read a fe places that some 350s came with fixed yokes (guessing chassis cabs).
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:53 PM   #6
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In my opinion you defintely need to switch to the Bronco transfer case with a fixed rear output yoke and double cardan front joint, the E40D 90-96 Bronco driveshaft is only 23 3/8" compressed and 27 3/8" extended acording to Bronco Graveyard. Consider a slightly longer wheelbase for better stabilty, longer driveshaft and better driveshaft angle. My 1978 F150 4x4 has a 117" wheelbase which I think is a very good overall wheelbase.


I'm currently at 133" and have debated this much. The 113-117 short bed length is what many people have suggested, but having owned many broncos I really think that 105 is the perfect length. I've considered going to 108-110 (approx 4 door 1st gen explorer) to give a slightly larger flatbed, which I want big enough to set up a tent and sleep on, but am interested in your argument for longer. Since I don't tow, and rarely see over 65 stability is relative, it's already on wider then bronco axles.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:42 PM   #7
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im not sure how compatible the chevys 1356 are. easier to find a bronco with them. i know 87 and up broncos used them. the earlier ones have a VSS hole which can be pluged. they look the same as the slip yoke ones but with a fixed yoke. im pretty sure all broncos were fixed yoke. if you go pull a transfer case, grab the DC joint for it if posible. at some point, they went from a yoke with u-bolts to a flange with bolts so get the right DC for your TC
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:32 PM   #8
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The DC joint is there for the extreme travel angle caused by the short wheelbase & long drivetrain (short rear d'shaft). If you run 1-ton springs, you probably won't get enough flex to need a DC, but it wouldn't hurt, as long as you correct the pinion angle to match.

The slip yoke is cheaper & simpler, but it's not suited to short driveshafts. As the axle approaches its travel limit (high d'shaft flex angle), having the slip joint in a direction OTHER than directly along the d'shaft results in very high slip travel (more travel than the pinion).
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:02 PM   #9
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Thanks. Since I plan on upgrading the front to superduty springs via a shackle flip I will have to lift the rear a but to keep it level and will go with softer springs (truck sees no load/towing), this will only increase the angle of the short driveline. At this point I have to ask, will a stock bronco double Cardan handle that kind of angle?
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:43 AM   #10
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You'd have to figure out what angle the driveshaft WILL have at max droop, and then see if your DC will flex that far, and still rotate. But as you approach the limit, you lose a LOT of strength & durability.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:05 PM   #11
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If I use a shackle flip to lose some of the factory lift block, am I going to help or hurt my pinion angle problem?
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:09 PM   #12
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Shackle flip doesn't change pinion angle.
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:00 PM   #13
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Shackle flip doesn't change pinion angle.
Thank you, I thought changing the leaf mount position and possibly affecting lift might affect its angle.

Also, where can I buy a replacement bronco cv joint? I found the bronco leaf shims at jbg for 50 a piece.
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:04 PM   #14
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there is no bronco CV joint. CV=constant velocity, used in front wheel drive cars and modern day IFS/IRS drive axles.

Bronco has a DC=double cardan. Scavenge one from a junk yard and rebuild it.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:26 PM   #15
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while ur at it get those angle blocks fro mthe junkyard also. 50$ a piece is crazy
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:22 PM   #16
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Shackle flip angle

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Originally Posted by TheUnforgiven View Post
Shackle flip doesn't change pinion angle.
I am going to have to disagree with that, a shackle flip lowers the rear spring eye (raising the vehicle) while maintaining the stock front spring pivot point. That will change the pinion angle.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:49 PM   #17
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I'd cut off the spring perches and weld on new better ones to correct pinon angle if you can. I'm not sure on your laws in your area but High Angle Driveline makes some nice options for obtaining better angles front and back http://www.highangledriveline.com/1350cv.html There are other shops out there like Tom Woods and even local ones that can build you a nice shaft with DC and larger U-joints. I went 1410 on a Corporate 14 FF and 1350's on the front D60 that I put in a 76 Blazer I built a while back. Also take a look at HAD's flange for the transfer case which can give you more options too. In my opinon it is worth spending the money to do your driveshafts right.
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:47 AM   #18
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I am going to have to disagree with that, a shackle flip lowers the rear spring eye (raising the vehicle) while maintaining the stock front spring pivot point. That will change the pinion angle.
This is exactly what I was thinking, it would essentially be rotating the pinion upward which should help my situation if I am not mistaken?
I managed to get a bw1356 with a fixed yoke and hopefully a driveshaft off a lifted bronco, with a little luck it will work as is but if not I will atleast steal its dc (which for all intent and purposes is a cv)
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:50 AM   #19
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I am going to have to disagree with that, a shackle flip lowers the rear spring eye (raising the vehicle) while maintaining the stock front spring pivot point. That will change the pinion angle.
that's what I first thought too when I learned about the shackle flip. However, since ONLY the rear side of the axle is being lowered, this causes the driveshaft to hinge on the t-case, which is where the angle changes. That's why all auto manufacturers put the shackle in the rear of the axle, not the front, to prevent pinion angle changes when a load is in the bed or during towing.
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:57 AM   #20
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I'm also looking into swapping superduty era springs onto this truck, which I can see has been done atleast by a few picks ups, wondering if that would be better then bronco lift springs for ride quality and articulation. The current 1 ton springs don't flex.
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