![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southern Ca
Posts: 158
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1990 5.8 e4OD, 2wd, 5in" lift, 33's
|
rear shackle angle
please advise on my shackle angle. This is with full weight of vehicle on the truck...
![]() I have 4-5" lift springs in the front (deaver maybe) and hefty's 2.5" shackle flip in the rear as well as an add-a-leaf. I'm thinking of getting a longer shackle from hefty to add some height. Perhaps that will help? opinions |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement | |||
|
|
#2 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 32,130
iTrader: (98) Bronco Info: '83 VIN & title on '93 frame/body w/'95 4.9L & EB paint
|
These are the primary considerations for shackle angle:
1) at normal ride height, the line between its bolts should be roughly perpendicular to the line between the leaf spring eye bolts. 2) at either extreme of the suspension travel, those 2 lines should not approach parallel. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Fullsize Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Emerald, PA
Posts: 1,976
iTrader: (8) Bronco Info: 94 C150, 351/zf,5"lift,35" xterains,flow40, mac headers,sag swap, elec fan, 4WDB
|
Why is your second leaf shorter then the third? Angle doesnt look bad.
__________________
![]() Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825 |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southern Ca
Posts: 158
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1990 5.8 e4OD, 2wd, 5in" lift, 33's
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Local # 40 Boilermakers
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Hartford,KY
Posts: 11,178
iTrader: (20) Bronco Info: 5.8 w/ MSD, optima, K&N, OBA, 8 lugs, Detroit w/ 4.88's, 4 wheel disc brakes & Kick ass camo,
|
The angle is bad, you need to shoot for about a 30* angle on the shackle. Looks like you need to move your front hanger back a bout 1-1.5" to get it right. Where you are now you are pretty much depending on the springs to do all of your movement wich means you are within inches of max down travel. If you move the front hanger back some it will also help recenter the wheel in the wheel well. I did this exact tsame thing along with a 1" inch zero rate.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southern Ca
Posts: 158
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 1990 5.8 e4OD, 2wd, 5in" lift, 33's
|
I've read about moving the front hanger back. Always something to do with this thing...
I need to move my pass side radius arm mount up an inch as well. lots of dam drilling. I hate drilling. edit// should center up the tire in the wheel well too eh? |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 32,130
iTrader: (98) Bronco Info: '83 VIN & title on '93 frame/body w/'95 4.9L & EB paint
|
Yeah, the gas tank angle looks just about right, too. BEFORE you start cutting & drilling in your frame, try aligning the BODY to the frame first. Loosen all 10 body bolts and use a hydraulic jack to get it centered across the frame, and fore-aft onto each bolt hole. Then retorque all 10 to spec. That might be all it takes to get the wheels centered in the arches. ![]() |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
|
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|