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Old 02-08-2013, 04:52 PM   #1
oakback
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What's best to use to stop rust?

I have a rusty tailgate, but other than that my '88 is in pretty good shape. Even the radiator supports aren't super bad.

There is a whole lot of surface rust all over underneath, though. I was wondering if I could wire-wheel it off and paint it with something to protect it. Is that worth bothering with? If so, what should I use?
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:07 PM   #2
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I have a rusty tailgate, but other than that my '88 is in pretty good shape. Even the radiator supports aren't super bad.

There is a whole lot of surface rust all over underneath, though. I was wondering if I could wire-wheel it off and paint it with something to protect it. Is that worth bothering with? If so, what should I use?
Its a lot of work, but IMO if you are going to keep the truck for a long, long time its worth it. I started the process on the frame (horns to first body mount under the cab), inner fenders and firewall on my 78. I cleaned it then used Rust Bullet, 3 coats, then painted with with gloss black, 3 coats. Hope to work my way back to the back of the truck this summer...
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:58 PM   #3
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I have used POR-15 over the years and have been very happy with it. I've done full body off resto's on Chevy Blazers where I sandblasted the frame and did POR-15 on the frame and it was harder than powerdercoating. I did the back half of my frame on my 78 F150 with it along with several axles and many parts. http://www.por15.com/
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:18 AM   #4
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I understand your concern with the belly of your rig, I have had rust issues too. I know this sounds a little off, but here is what I have found to work very well for anti-rust here in wisconsin;
Start off with your grinding and removing the rust, always make sure to use compressed air and brushes or whatever you have to remove as much dust as you can. Then I use a truck style bedliner as the undercoating. In my experience, it holds up tougher than nails. The undercoat I have used was no match for a half descent bedliner. I usually buy it in the gallon jugs, and use a huge cheapo paint brush to get it on there. I have also used the Harbor Freight spraying kit for things like undercoating. I think it cost about 30 bucks. It worked great with the bedliner but it requires alot of masking off and covering things to keep overspray to a minimum. I sprayed the exhaust and that just plain stunk for awhile driving down the road.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:39 PM   #5
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The main key with rust is encapsulating it so it doesn't spread. Anything you put over the rust has to seal it in so no more moisture causes it to creep like cancer. That is the only problem you can have with an undercoating, bed liner, or regular paint. Unless you really coat it good and no moisture gets under it, the rust will continue to expand. Eastwood also makes a good rust paint encapsulator as well. You might want to consider POR-15 or Eastwood first, then follow up with the bed liner if you really want it to be durable. I did this in my fender wells on a Blazer I had. I did POR-15 first then some spray on bed liner.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:00 PM   #6
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Thanks. I've always heard good things about POR15.

The previous owner started putting bedliner on the cab. Which I don't really have a problem with, it's not in great shape. But he did it sloppily, with drips and such, and some areas thick enough to crack. So I think I'll POR15 the undercarriage, and re-do the bedliner on the cab. I read on their website that POR15 is UV-sensitive, otherwise I'd probably put that on the cab too (or do it anyway, and cover it with bedliner).
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:14 PM   #7
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I'd just get a rust removal brush/wheel basically grind all you can and get some rust removal product, from a hardware store some are jelly some are liquid. Coat the surfaces with it, then rince.. Then brush on some "por-15" once its dry then bedline it.
The tail gate problem if you get a new gate, drill a few more holes in the bottom where no one can see to help drain the excess water that gets trapped in there.
some people will use a powdercoat paint but I would think bed lining is better.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:29 PM   #8
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I agree with the POR-15. My father and I painted some pretty rough spots on his 86 CJ-7 and that was 16 years ago and it's still holding up great! Most of it was just painted with black POR-15 and left that way with no other paint covering it up.

Just a little advice, MAKE SURE YOU SEAL THE CAN!! We had a small can that we thought was sealed and it wasn't 100% and a 1/4in layer of paint dried and it seriously took a drill press with a few drill bits to get through it to the good paint still.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:06 AM   #9
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Thanks folks!
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Just a little advice, MAKE SURE YOU SEAL THE CAN!! We had a small can that we thought was sealed and it wasn't 100% and a 1/4in layer of paint dried and it seriously took a drill press with a few drill bits to get through it to the good paint still.
That's nuts! I read on their site that if a single drop of sweat falls in the can, the whole thing is ruined. I think I'll get their multi-pack of smaller cans.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:21 AM   #10
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Encapsulating it works, but the best way is to get rid of it.
Soda Blast it or Sand Blast it.


Then use a good product to seal it like epoxy primer/POR-15/Rust Bullit
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:54 PM   #11
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I read on their website that POR15 is UV-sensitive, otherwise I'd probably put that on the cab too (or do it anyway, and cover it with bedliner).
The basic POR-15 is UV sensitive but they have top coatings as well. I did my frame in Chassis Black after sand blasting it and it was outstanding. There is a way to bottom coat with POR-15 and then top coat with another paint I believe.
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:01 PM   #12
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I always understood por-15 to be a preventive and not a remover, i woildnt wanna leave any rust and just cover it up to make sure you killed all the cancer you would wanna coat and rinse in rust remover and dry then apply por 15.
I'm sure por-15 works great I've always heard awesome things about it if I was gonna pass this car down and or go thru the trouble I'd make damn sure it was done right the first time.
I also understand that por 15 might stop it from spreading but would you wanna take that chance?
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:50 PM   #13
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Im pretty positive por15 encapsulates a neutralizes rust. I mean the POR does stand for Paint Over Rust lol. They also have a separate product to kill the rust as a pre treatment

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Old 02-15-2013, 08:38 AM   #14
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I always understood por-15 to be a preventive and not a remover, i woildnt wanna leave any rust and just cover it up to make sure you killed all the cancer you would wanna coat and rinse in rust remover and dry then apply por 15.
I'm sure por-15 works great I've always heard awesome things about it if I was gonna pass this car down and or go thru the trouble I'd make damn sure it was done right the first time.
I also understand that por 15 might stop it from spreading but would you wanna take that chance?
That's what I meant by "wire-wheel it". Meaning, remove the rust with a wire wheel, then coat it to prevent future rust.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:45 PM   #15
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Sorry if it's been mentioned before, but has anyone seen the electronic device one can install to send a current through the vehicle that eliminates the bonds rust can form with the surfaces? If it really works it would be the bee's knees!
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:53 PM   #16
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That's what I meant by "wire-wheel it". Meaning, remove the rust with a wire wheel, then coat it to prevent future rust.
Yeah but Wire Wheeling doesn't remove all the rust. You could seriously spend hours and I guarantee you will not remove all rust. I bought in to the whole Por 15 hype and I personally hate it. If you don't prep everything just so and use their degreaser and their metal etch it will probably peel. It did on the entire underbody of my friends Jeep and it also did on the few spots I put it on in my Bronco. If you really want an encapsulator(not a neutralizer, big difference) use Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator. Another inexpensive option is to coat the bottom with Klean-strip prep and etch(phosphoric acid which turns the rust into iron phosphate) and then paint the underbody with an epoxy primer or tough paint. But wire wheeling and degreasing are essential for any of these methods.
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:52 PM   #17
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Surface rust eventually eats into the metal thus as ol big red said, wire wheeling will do no good except get surface rust off.
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:05 PM   #18
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I sand blasted my frame, used the POR-15 Marine Clean degreaser, and then their Metal Ready prep and the paint is still on the frame like it was new. As with any job, it is all in the prep. You won't find any product that works great by slapping it over a rusty part without well prepping it first. I think if you are concerned with appearance, say parts that people will see often, then Eastwood Rust Encapsulator might be a better choice from what I have read. For frames and axles where appearance isn't as important, I like POR-15.
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:14 PM   #19
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I plan to stop the rust on my 79 bronco that I use for dd.


Idk if i will take body off since this is my dd.



Should I use POR15?
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:19 PM   #20
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Just wondering what everyone's take on the rattle cans that claim they "turn rust back to solid metal" hype? Does this stuff really work? I've never used it but I just saw it on the shelf at the parts store. Kind of pricey too...
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