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#1 |
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Registered User
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Engine diagnosis, rod knock.
Seeking your advice in diagnosing my engine. The truck has a new battery, cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires and an oil change. The engine turns over fine, sometimes I need to hold the gas a little when I start her in the morning. It idles fairly smooth expect for a repeating knock in the engine. My buddy said it was rod knock. No vacuum leaks that I was able to detect and it is not throwing any codes. How would I go about in diagnosing the problem? The oil levels are good.
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95' 5.0/E4OD |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Install a Mech oil pressure guage and check oil pressure if you suspect any mech knocking. Can also get a 2' long heater hose, have motor running and see if you can isolate the sound with it. A stethescope is easier but i'm cheap and heater hose I have.
Have you pulled and checked plugs, see if one is discolored differently. Look at manifolds for black soot if there is a leak or cracks. |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Not sure if this is related but I have a good amount of exhaust smell in the cabin. I was thinking it was an exhaust leak. Anyway, the plugs were installed 3 days ago ran maybe 20 miles, too early to pull them for discoloration?
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95' 5.0/E4OD |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Check for cracked manfiolds for sure then. How many miles? Mine they where both cracked at the back near the collector and I was missing two bolts on each side as well.
Exhaust coming into cab? Do you have any holes in exhaust pipe, driving with rear window down sucks all that sleepy gas inside if any leaks. |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
x2 on the hose to isolate the sound. you can also use wooden rod like a broom handle. |
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#7 |
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Man with a Golden ticket
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 3,758
iTrader: (0) Bronco Info: 96 blackout XLT Sport 5.8L E4OD, 4" Rancho w/ 35" MTR's
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X3 on the hose.
Garden hose works just fine too. Great way to isolate where the knock is coming from. Sometimes the old school ways are still the best. I would recommend you isolate the noise first, May save you a lot of unnecessary time and effort.
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You just might be a redneck if you start a conversation with: ![]() "happened to us when Dad got pinched by the feds." - Biker Pepe' - |
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#11 |
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Never Done
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being an 95 you have efi. pull codes should be your first step. if your hitting the gas peddle to get it started that also is an issue being you shouldnt need to do that. check your fuel pressure as well and timing
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94 XLT 357/E4OD Trans-go stage II 6" Stage II ProComp,35x12.50BFG/AT 4.88 f (aussie) / r (open) / Custom Sliders JBA headers,Custom Y pipe hi flow cat & Full 3" |
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#13 |
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my bko ate my money
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: hudson, FL
Posts: 2,274
iTrader: (2) Bronco Info: 92 Eddie Bauer Bronco 5.0, E4OD,MAF Conv, sixltre tune-up, OBA, on 31x10.50x15s
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the hose is a good method
also if it comes rite down to it and you cant isolate the rod/crank knock youll have to drop the oil pan and try to wiggle each rod journal to see which one is knocking if a rod is found to be knocking hopefully it wont be slaping the head and all youll have to do is replace that rod/bearing/piston rings for that cylinder......hone the cylinder before reinstalling the piston so the rings can seat properly parts needed would be a complete engine gasket set, connecting rod, rod bearings, piston rings, fresh oil, and a cylinder hone with instructions on how to hone a cylinder properly
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#14 |
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Salt blows goats for fun
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oswego, Illinois
Posts: 15,962
iTrader: (8) Bronco Info: 2006 Kia Spectra
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I've heard manifold leaks that sound like knocks. the fact that you have exhaust IN the cab, and this sound, i'd thoroughly inspect the exhaust system.
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2006 Kia Spectra 4 banger/5 speed. "Kids, they see the good in everything and through their eyes, they open ours." - Hank Davis |
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Redford, MI
Posts: 1,056
iTrader: (1) Bronco Info: 1996 Black 302 XLT - 1994 Green 351 E. B. both have E4OD, 3.55 axles, 31 10.50x15
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The classic method of finding a rod knock is to run the engine up to about 1000 RPM, and then pull one plug wire at a time. The knock will go away when you pull the plug for the offending cylinder.
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"The simplest solution is usually the best solution" - Occam's Razor "The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them." - Albert Einstein |
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#20 | |
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I have a Straight Six
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 3,440
iTrader: (6) Bronco Info: (SOLD) 1992 Bronco XLT, 6" BDS, 35" Pro-Comp, 4.9L I-6, E4OD
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I don't feel like that is a reliable method. And how is that easier than a stethoscope?
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1987 Chevy K10 4x4, 4.3L TBI V6, 700R4, SWB, 31" A/T's 1994 F-150 XLT 5.8L, E4OD, 2WD, Reg. Cab, LWB. 2011 Chevy Colorado LT 3.7L I-5, 2wd (Company Truck) Quote:
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