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Old 02-12-2013, 09:49 AM   #1
NWTF 87
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Bronco Info: 1987 XLT,4" lift 35 BFG,Monster aod transmission, 9 inch rear with 4.11 positive traction
!987 Fuel system upgrade

Getting ready to install a rebuilt 302 with upwards of 400 hp. I have the two fuel pumps one in tank and one on the frame rail with resivior before and filter after. I know that i will need 30lb injectors and adjustable regulator. what will be the best set up? I have been told i will need a 190LPH pump. can I put that in place of the rail pump?
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:27 AM   #2
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May want to increase line size, move away from OEM 90 fittings and add an easily serviceable "bowl" style fuel filter. Maybe even a secondary redundant pump to be used if primary fails.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:37 AM   #3
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Bronco Info: 1987 XLT,4" lift 35 BFG,Monster aod transmission, 9 inch rear with 4.11 positive traction
Thanks, I believe I will go with 3/8" inch stainless for the most part. I just want to make sure the set up is going to work.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:29 AM   #4
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You're stock fuel lines will handle 400hp just fine. Yank your in-tank pump ans swap it for a Walbro 255lph pump (I believe the Mustang one fits the Bronco hanger). You may need to change the plug for the pump, but most aftermarket pumps come with a new plug because the same pump fits so many different apps with only difference being the plug. Then remove your inline pump and replace it with Motorcraft fuel filter #FG872 or equivalent (looks just like the stock filter but with longer ends and will fit in place of the fuel pump, eliminating it). Then you just need to do a little rewiring as the factory low pressure pump uses lower voltage as well. The ground wire to the in-tank pump is a resistor wire. You need to eliminate it and replace it with a standard ground wire to get full voltage to the pump. This is a very common mod on older Fox body cars and Merkurs and it works great.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:31 AM   #5
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Bronco Info: 1987 XLT,4" lift 35 BFG,Monster aod transmission, 9 inch rear with 4.11 positive traction
Thanks, next question the stock fuel rail can I use that and just upgrade to the adjustable regulator. Great to hear that the fuel lines are going to work.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:43 AM   #6
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Just use the stock rail and regulator.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:46 PM   #7
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Stock rails. Adjustable regulator is a good idea fore fine tuning. Often have to drop a pound or two to keep idle cleaner with big injectors.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:38 PM   #8
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Bronco Info: 1987 XLT,4" lift 35 BFG,Monster aod transmission, 9 inch rear with 4.11 positive traction
Thanks for the help. I am trying to have all possible issues adressed before the swap. I have already converted to mass air from speed density and the whoe fuel delivery was worrying me.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:31 PM   #9
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If you go with the intank pump and eliminate the frame pump how is it about sucking air without a baffle?
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:45 PM   #10
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nwtf glad you see your still around.... sounds like a nice motor your getting ready to install.... how everything been going, we need to get together in the near future..... listen to bugz he is right on point. good luck my friend
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:43 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra2411 View Post
If you go with the intank pump and eliminate the frame pump how is it about sucking air without a baffle?
Not sure I understand what you mean? You are not changing anything about where the fuel is picked up, just replacing the low pressure pump with a high pressure in the same location. If there is a delivery problem after, then it was there before as well.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:36 AM   #12
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I'm curious to hear what the adjustable fpr is going to do. He already has MAF. I've run Siemens 60's and have 80's right now with a stock regulator with zero issues. In closed loop adaptive learning will bring it back to stoich no matter what you do to the fp unless the tune is waaaay off. In that case it needs a tune, not an adj regulator. If you want to unplug the battery and clear the Kams after every drive then an adjustable reg will work, but unless you don't adaptive learning will just compensate to get it back to a Lambda of 1.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:48 AM   #13
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If you don't think you need it, cool. I've never met a tuner who didn't want to be able to adjust fuel pressure. Many times big injectors run a bit rich at idle and turning the FP down just a tad cleans it up. And sometimes you need to turn it up a tad if your injectors are a bit small. It makes up for when you really should be using an "in between" size injector, which usually isn't available. Stock regulators are failure prone too now that ethanol fuel is so prevalent.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:32 AM   #14
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Bronco Info: 1987 XLT,4" lift 35 BFG,Monster aod transmission, 9 inch rear with 4.11 positive traction
From what i have been told is going from the stock 19# injectors to 30# injectors you will need to change from the stock regulator. This is all first time learning curve. Now if i put the inline fuel filter in place of the rail fuel pump will i have to remove the stock filter that is after that and also the reservoir before the fuel pump that the return line dumps into?
Ya been away for a while hunting season takes up all of my free time. January to May is Bronco upgrade time.
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:59 PM   #15
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The more I think about it, I just now caught what 'Cobra2411' meant. I totally forgot that the trucks use the on frame reservoir to help feed the high pressure pump. We don't have that issue with the cars so it slipped my mind. Since the tank has no baffled reservoir in it, you may run into fuel starvation on heavy acceleration or steep angles if the tank is low. Easy fix is to swap your fuel pump hanger to a later style that has the "module" design with the built in reservoir. You can still install the 255lph pump in the module (a little more work as you have to disassemble the module), but the same result. And you can just leave the frame mounted one there if you want, or bypass it.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:48 AM   #16
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Rock auto has a 90-96 HP pump on closeout for $11. Would be pretty badass if you could make it work. That is if you can run a stock HP pump.
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:14 PM   #17
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If you keep the "reservoir" canister back on the frame rail invest in a Craftsman "strap wrench" to make life easier getting it unscrewd to change the filter.....NBD....filter and O ring kit cost around $10.00 at most.

Good Luck with the project Brother!
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:52 AM   #18
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Awesome.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:58 AM   #19
NWTF 87
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Bronco Info: 1987 XLT,4" lift 35 BFG,Monster aod transmission, 9 inch rear with 4.11 positive traction
Thanks gonna get the mustang 190 LPH intank fuel pump and remove the inline rail pump leaving the resevoir and running a new line from that to my original fuel filter. I think haveing two filters might cause to much head pressure for the pump. I think i will do the change out befor installing the new motor to make sure i get it right. Gonna pick the engine up from the machine shop this afternoon. Then start installing the bolt on parts.
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