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Old 02-17-2013, 02:51 PM   #1
TiltedCircle
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Exclamation Rear window motor replace, now Engine will not turn over.

Hey guys. I was all cammando on my front driver and passenger windows and only had an 8 dollar fix involving the window regulator pins. I was over zealous on cleaning the rear and busted the brushes on the motor. I tried testing the motor when the brushes were busted and this MAY be the cause of this issue. (I know, dumb).

At any rate, I bought a new rear lift gate motor and installed it. I noticed that now the motor still does not work (from the instrument switch and from the rear key switch) even though the rest of the power windows will still happily roll up and down! (partial high five!) Whatever. I was thinking that maybe there is a switch on my 95 5.8 bronco rear gate that prohibits the window from lifting or lowering but I couldn't find it. On to the bigger issue...

I tested the front solenoid (turned the key on, tried jumping the large to small terminal) NOTHING. I then tested the large to large terminal and i get the same starter CLICK that occurs when I try to engage the key in the ignition.

I went below deck to test the solenoid on the starter and found that the large to large terminal makes 'er spin.

I checked the fuses and they all "seem" to be fine. Again, windows and door power functions are working fine. What did i eff up when testing that busted motor?

I am lost at this point. Thank you guys for any info!
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:19 PM   #2
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It's coincidental. Click this & read all the captions:

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Old 02-17-2013, 03:22 PM   #3
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There is a switch on the left side tailgate latch that has to be closed in order for the window motor to run. If the tailgate is open, close the latch manually, and make sure that you close both the latches completely.
If the tailgate is closed, you might try pushing on the left side of the tailgate while turning the tailgate key switch, sometimes if the latch is out of adjustment, pushing on the tailgate will cause the switch on the latch to close.
The tailgate motor IIRC is fed by two different fuses, one for the dash switch, and one for the tailgate key switch.

If that doesn't do it, Steve83's excellent write up on everything you ever want to know about tailgates should get you back in business.
Read until your eyes bleed:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12689-4
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:23 PM   #4
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Damn - I'm giving up - LOL
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:54 PM   #5
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Hahha. Mikey thanks man. That did the trick. I knew there was a switch somewhere but it escaped me in cold weather. Anyhoo, I still cant get er to run.

So here's the thing, I'm wondering if i have either a low battery (bulbs on while working on window motors) but I checked the battery and I have 12.82 volts, or I have a bad solenoid. Large to large posts make it click, but large to small post doesn't do a damn thing. Does that mean anything? Isn't it supposed to do something? I checked my terminals too and they look great. ....
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
It's coincidental. Click this & read all the captions:

Thanks Steve! I'm tryin my best here. I have to get this bird running before tomorrow. UGHHH. I'll go back out and check the ground on the motor and take off and clean the heck out of the ground wire connecting to the el-cheapy connector. I'll be back soon.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:42 PM   #7
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Nope. Top starter relay is working. I thing the other starter solenoid may be shot. Tried my remote start switch on both and the same old click. Thoughts?
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:45 PM   #8
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Have you cleaned your battery terminals and cables? This should be your next step.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:23 PM   #9
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Yea I did. Changing out the starter now. I have a feeling it could be the solenoid on the starter or the shoddy connection to the small positive (ignition wire?) Just had the battery checked too and it was solid. I know its probably a faulty dirty connect but its too damn cold. I'll touch base in a few.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:06 AM   #10
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Thanks for your help guys! All issues are now resolved. Apparently Ford KNOWS about the crappy connection of the Ignition switch wire and has a conversion kit available. At any rate, I put the new starter in (with better ignition switch wire) and she started like a champ. I probably didn't need the starter but at least now I will have the other tested and keep it as a backup. Totally worth the $20 core fee IMO. Again thanks for the help and I hope to see you all on other topics!!
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